Maybe I missed it in the threads above, but what's a good source for some honeycomb-esq screening material? Maybe just yoinking the front cowl off the parts Fiero you steal the hood from too??
Dash defroster vents?
Great pics, I'm going to save them all!
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10:33 PM
Jun 4th, 2002
Oreif Member
Posts: 16460 From: Schaumburg, IL Registered: Jan 2000
Originally posted by fieroshop: Looks good for what you have done and accomplished. My hat is off to you. Couple of question. Using wood as I did on my first hood vent I found that the wood even though it is sandwiched in fiberglass has a tendency to swell and contract with the weather. How did or are you going to compensate for that. Mine cracked the fiberglass. What will you do with the water that puddles up in the vent since you have a ridge and water cannot flow out and is trapped.
My hood was done the exact same way. First, they water doesn't "puddle" there for long. The ridge is very small. It 'puddles" about as much as water in the embossed "Pontiac" on the headlight cover. Second, I've had mine done for about 2 years now and have had no problems with the wood swelling or expanding. We have temp extreme's from high 90's and humidity to below 0 temps. If the wood swells it is most likely it wasn't sealed all the way, was not fully dry when you used it, or it was a very humid day when you sealed it.
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02:01 AM
Jun 27th, 2002
RBeaubien Member
Posts: 775 From: Glendale (Phoenix), AZ, USA Registered: Mar 2002
I would like to do this, but I don't want to use my original hood. Are there any differences between hoods of any Fieros? If there are, which ones can I use on my 87 GT?
I just marked the cut lines on my "experimental" hood. Has anyone used a jigsaw with a smooth cut blade to do this cut? I thought I could start it with a dremel tool with a fibre cut disk, that way I wouldn't have large drill holes to deal with later. Will this work?
BTW has anyone used perforated steel (like that used in large commercial electronics cases) instead of wooden blocks? If it was formed properly it could be pop riveted to the dropped section (out 0f sight) and glassed onto the bottom of the front area of the hood, anyone get the idea?
Ira
------------------ Ira Crummey 1984 econo coupe 1985 coupe
You should drill some approx 1/4 inch holes in the front corners to keep from causing cracks. The holes will help spread the stress and provide you with a place to start and stop with your cuts. I used a skil saw with a fine tooth blade mounted backwards when I cut my hood.
tstroud
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01:42 PM
My7Fieros Member
Posts: 3357 From: Germantown, TN Registered: Jun 2000
Good grief I had no idea when I posted this it would keep returning from the dead lol. Thanx for the compliments, and good luck to those of you who are going to do it yourselves also..its really not too difficult.
------------------ The force will be with you, always.
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03:15 PM
KissMySSFiero Member
Posts: 5544 From: Tarpon Springs, FL USA Registered: Nov 2000
I have made the cuts with a with a DREMEL!!, used a fibre reinforced cutting disk and was finished in about 10 minutes. I also cut out the undrhood reinforcement but only back to where the trunk seals. I can post pictures if necessary. Thanks again guys for the details.
I still need to know more about the fiberglass work. Do I sand everything first or just clean it? How many layers of fiberglass cloth do you need? Is the wooden block fastened to the dropped section in any way (screws?)? Has anyone used anything other than wood?
Because this is a topic which still comes up, and because I learned a lot from this thread I am bumping it back into play.
BTW, I used the measurements given in your diagram Archie, will this clear the radiator easily or will I need to make any adjustments, 9 1/4 inches seems pretty tight.
My7Fieros What Kind Of Product Is "Kitty Hair" U Used Looks Nice ..I Need To Fill A Rip In My Fastback Clip ....As A Matter Of Fact Id Like To Get All The Supplies You used ...A List Would Be Relly Cool
------------------ Zero C's 86 Gt Fastback
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12:18 PM
ZeroC Member
Posts: 1664 From: Chilliwack,BC,Canada Registered: Jan 2003
My7Fieros What Kind Of Product Is "Kitty Hair" U Used Looks Nice ..I Need To Fill A Rip In My Fastback Clip ....As A Matter Of Fact Id Like To Get All The Supplies You used ...A List Would Be Relly Cool
What Kind Of Product Is "Kitty Hair" U Used Looks Nice ..I Need To Fill A Rip In My Fastback Clip ....
I don't know exactly what products they used, but "Bondo" makes 2 types of fiberglass enhanced fillers. One is "Bondo-Hair" which has many long strands of fiberglass already mixed into a resin... you just add hardener and shape! The other product they have is "Bondo-Glass" which is more like regular body filler, but has small/short strands of fiberglass in it. The added strands help create a stronger filler once cured.
Now on the other hand, you mentioned wanting to repair a "rip" in your fastback. I'd actually suggest a different product. Different parts of the car (hood, roof, upper/rear clip, & decklid) are made from SMC (Sheet Molded Compound). It's a lot like Fiberglass, but not exactly the same. Anyway, I've been using Duramix (#4056?), which is made specifically for SMC and Fiberglass repairs. Just a suggestion!
On a related note, see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/028500.html is this anything like the kit you sell Archie, or do you do the completed hood. I like this idea since it eliminates any problems with the wood blocks. I wonder if these are still available and for how much.
I am planning on painting the hood flat black until I can afford a paint job, hey MinnGreenGT is that what you have been doing?
Actually, most of my stuff has just been sprayed with a flat black primer... although I'm working on getting the correct tools (paint equipment) to at least put a basic finish on the parts to protect them from weathering (since I drive the car every day and in all weather except snow) until I can paint the whole thing.
I've actually been discussing some of these details with rogergarrison - who pointed out to me that spray cans can't effectively layer material on... so they won't get you too far in the finishing process. The parts need to sprayed with a good surfacer/primer (a few coats) to really get a good base to finish on.
MinnGreenGT, If the vent looks good enough I may take it to a paint shop and have it properly primed in the black primer. Since it is not steel the primer shouldn't pose any problem with protecting the surface and it should hold out until I can afford a paint job.
Thanks Ira
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10:42 AM
webbee Member
Posts: 1149 From: Los Angeles, Ca. USA Registered: Jun 2000
I think the original product was called Tiger-Hair. I have used this stuff a lot. It should be used for the base coat with a thin skin of regular bondo of fiberglass resin on the top. The fibers that are projecting at you make a dimple if you don't put something between them and the primer.
I always loved this hood mod. This thread is what this forum is all about. Tip of the hat to all involved.
Some one asked about the trunk seal area, if you use Archie's measurements you can remove structure from under the hood but leave the seal intact, see these pictures: inside more detail: so it looks like this:
Sorry about all of the pictures but I am a visual learner and I am sure I am not alone. BTW all cuts were made with a fiber disk on a Dremel tool, you have to be careful but it is fast and accurate.
THIS is EXACTLY why this forum is so addictive! One Fiero Owner showing his pride in his Fiero with all others while holding nothing back, showing step by step how to improve and modify their respective pride and joy. Should I ever decide to modify my hood, I will know exactly where to go to get the best help and advice with the project wheather it be the archives or folks ready to help real time!
Very well said. Great group of folks with the ability and desire to help others enjoy the fun little cars we all have an obsession for.
I may be guilty of keeping this thread going but I believe it is one of the best pictorials on doing a modification I have seen in a while (other than the much more involved engine swap stories). I also really like this particular mod, how about some pictures of more radical versions of this same modification.
Ira
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07:53 PM
David Bartlett Member
Posts: 1090 From: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada Registered: Aug 2001
How about this idea to eliminate the wood blocks. I noticed a piece of aluminum channel belonging to an old shower door. I notched it in the middle so it would bend to the shape of my hood opening and then I fit the channel over the edge so that it supported the open hole. See the first picture:
Here is a detail from above (sorry the digital camera has no macro mode)
And here is one from below:
What do you think? I can use long pop rivets and washers to attach it across the front and glass it onto the underside of the hood. The sides I will then fill with long strand fiberglass body filler and then sand and paint, the preliminary colour scheme will be similar to MinnGreenGT, flat black untill it is all painted. (see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/026705.html for a sketch of the final product.)
Here is a diagram of the hood using Archie's sketch and measurements but editing on the PC:
With these measurements the fit was perfect however my aluminum channel idea now allowed the aluminum to contact the radiator hose, solution, cut a strip about 1/2" wide out of the centre section to allow the channel to clear the hose:
The GT-40, late 60's prototype look is what I am going for. This is a great modification since it looks cool and is functional. I wanted to avoid the wood blocks since I didn't think I could do a good job with them, so the aluminum channel idea came about by accident. I have donated one of my rear vent screens to act as the grill, I will post pictures as I make more progress.
This thread has been one of the best "how to" discussions I have seen, it gave me the motivation to try this myself.
Okay guys here is the deal. I just cut the lines on my project car for the scoop. I followed the exact measurements and on the hood area i hit the part where the seal lies. Now I read later on that you could just cut a quarter inch underneath the seal and all would be well. So I guess I have to head this way now. Anyways my MAIN question is now that I have cut it there is still stiffness. I know it might take time to get the scoop down enough where I can put rulers to hold the shape. Right now I got in it roman candles. That's as far as I want to venture based on the stiffness. Am I being a wimp and should I just jamp two rulers in there like show in the picture or keep going and take a couple of days by stretching the stiffness more and pushing it down? I'm new to this area so any advice would be much appreciated and a plus would be a definate award. Thanks in advance!
-Kruz
------------------ These are the Kruz'n Machines: '84 SE 2m4 (PROJECT CAR) '87 GT V6 '83 Mint Dodge Ram 150 Royal
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05:03 PM
thegreep Member
Posts: 209 From: South Jordan, Ut Registered: Nov 2002
KRuzn MAchines Check out the pictures with my posts and you will see the details of what to leave and what to trim. If you have cut into the seal area but did not remove it, then repair the cut lines by fiberglassing on the top (so it doesn't interfere with the seal).
but my7fieros did the exact same thing i did and all he did to correct it to make it sit good was cut into the seal a quarter inch. I believe this would be the easier route for me. Your opinion is much appreciated. I just think that it would be easier to do what he did by cutting into the seal.
