ah' I bet you can't wait to race Tony now Revin...LMAO!! I bet your SC would GET STOMPED... hahaha You must be a lil' depressed by this thread... Poor Kevin...HAHAHA
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04:13 PM
TONY_C Member
Posts: 2747 From: North Bellmore, NY 11710 Registered: May 2001
ah' I bet you can't wait to race Tony now Revin...LMAO!! I bet your SC would GET STOMPED... hahaha You must be a lil' depressed by this thread... Poor Kevin...HAHAHA
This is the best thread I have seen for us V8 guys who don't wanna go sideways....please don't make it go up in flames....
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04:25 PM
skitime Member
Posts: 5765 From: Akron, PA, USA Registered: Aug 2000
Hey Tony... lemme know when you're gonna run this car up at little river (i'm assuming you're planning on it.. heh) so I can head over there and watch...
-Daniel
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03:15 PM
Jun 23rd, 2003
TONY_C Member
Posts: 2747 From: North Bellmore, NY 11710 Registered: May 2001
What is a "right" price for a '78/79 Toronado that's been sitting in a driveway for ten plus years? I always buy high and sell low, need help here.
Thanks, Robert
A lot depends on the condition of the car but I do know that late models like that are not as desirable as older models from 60's and early 70's. Plus Eldos are more pricy than toronados. If it's clean and the owner is knowledgable about the car it could be too expensive to chop up.
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01:49 PM
cardealer Member
Posts: 511 From: austin tx usa Registered: Jan 2001
What is a "right" price for a '78/79 Toronado that's been sitting in a driveway for ten plus years? I always buy high and sell low, need help here.
Thanks, Robert
big difference between a 1978 and a 1979. 1978 was the last of the th425's, they went to the th325's in 1979. price, the cheapest you can get. ask him what is the lowest he would take for it, wait a few days then offer about 30% less.....
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01:56 PM
TONY_C Member
Posts: 2747 From: North Bellmore, NY 11710 Registered: May 2001
Cardealer, What work have you done to the TH425 transmission, ie, shift kit etc? Where did you get the parts? Also, do you have a source for the axle seals for the diff? I need a set of those. Oh, and how did you get that tranny to look so good? Thanks, Tony
[This message has been edited by TONY_C (edited 06-24-2003).]
Cardealer, What work have you done to the TH425 transmission, ie, shift kit etc? Where did you get the parts? Also, do you have a source for the axle seals for the diff? I need a set of those. Oh, and how did you get that tranny to look so good? Thanks, Tony
[This message has been edited by TONY_C (edited 06-24-2003).]
all the hard tranny parts are coming from a local tranny parts supplier, **** kit came from trans go, the axle seals come new with the rebuid kit. the "look good" came from the above post.
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12:47 PM
TONY_C Member
Posts: 2747 From: North Bellmore, NY 11710 Registered: May 2001
I need the axle seals for the differential, both sides.
the trans shop has no number for the seals. they suggested if you still have the old ones, there should be a number somewhere on it. try cross referencing to another seal. if you can get me the numbers i will try to look it up as well.
i have a couple of pics of the engine being test fited in the car, but my pip isnt working(?) for some reason. i will try to fix that later today. the parts for my tranny came in today (finally) so just some machine work a little more welding and its going all in. i am behind about 3 weeks now due to waiting on parts and changing up some of the designs, but its on the way. i figure the way things are moving i have about 6 more weeks to completion.
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03:33 PM
cardealer Member
Posts: 511 From: austin tx usa Registered: Jan 2001
Looks great cardealer. Is that motor centered perfectly in the engine compartment? Looks like it is from the pic.
Also, what are your plans for where you had to cut the trunk out. Mine doesn't have a trunk at all anymore, but I was just curious what you plan to do.
Interesting!!! I'd consider removing the rest of the removed beam to clean up the area a bit, clad it all with aluminum sheet (without a trunk) the make up two good looking 'aircraft' style cross-car beams (curved to clear engine) for connection to the strut towers.
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06:58 PM
GT40Guy Member
Posts: 66 From: Mt Clemens, MI Registered: Apr 2003
Interesting!!! I'd consider removing the rest of the removed beam to clean up the area a bit, clad it all with aluminum sheet (without a trunk) the make up two good looking 'aircraft' style cross-car beams (curved to clear engine) for connection to the strut towers.
you should get one of those 1-900-numbers. you must be reading my mind, in fact just today i took my dimensions to a sheet metal fabricator. instead of "aircraft" style cross bar beams its going to be intergated into a roll bar that connects to the strut towers. all the other remains of the beam are already cleaned up, (that was the first test fit pic) its been cleaned up since then. thanks for reading my mind and dont tell anything else that ive been thinking about..... i dont want to go to jail!!!
[This message has been edited by cardealer (edited 06-27-2003).]
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07:43 PM
fiero go fast Member
Posts: 1728 From: Royersford, PA Registered: Apr 2002
Think you need to fabricate some new tail lights/or mod original so the 'Bundle of Snakes' headers can exit right between the lamps. Put grill style vents in the original tunnels for the original exhaust, will give the rear end a smoother look!!!
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08:54 PM
Jun 28th, 2003
D-Ri2k4 Member
Posts: 282 From: Florence (Hicksville), Texas Registered: Feb 2003
God-Damn man... I might have to head down there and check out what you've been up to... heh... how is this car gonna handle in the corners, or is it? hehe... looks badass...
-Daniel
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12:55 AM
Jun 29th, 2003
rodrieguz Member
Posts: 134 From: cahokia IL 62206 Registered: May 2003
Cardealer how much is this conversio costing as far as the hardware needed and misc. do not include the price of engine and trans. What I'm trying to find out is this swap most economical than mounting a v8 to the regular fiero trans, which way is cheaper -engine and trans.
------------------ 87 fiero se
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01:42 PM
Smoooooth GT Member
Posts: 8823 From: Lake Palestine, Texas Registered: Jun 2001
Hey Tony. Those damn support beams on the strut tower are HELL to get out aren't they ? I went ahead and removed the trunk cross member too, and exposed the upper and lower sub-frame. I was disappointed in the structural integrety of the factory components. But then again they didn't have THAT much torque to worry about. They will soon..LOL !!!!
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10:28 PM
Jun 30th, 2003
GTFiero1 Member
Posts: 6508 From: Camden County NJ Registered: Sep 2001
question that nobody asked yet, Was it necessary to mount a fuel cell up front because now the transaxle would stick in somewhat where the stock tank was originally mounted or did you just do that to put the nitrous bottle in the middle?
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02:04 AM
perkidelic Member
Posts: 772 From: Masury Ohio USA Registered: Aug 2002
Originally posted by 80's BOY: ...I was disappointed in the structural integrety of the factory components. But then again they didn't have THAT much torque to worry about...
I don't care much for the factory design either. It seems that the trunk, with the crossmember, was a big part of structural integrity - I would recommend doing some reinforcing to compensate for removing them. I noticed that the upper frame rails don't really tie rigidly into the lower main frame rails. In front of the strut towers they tie into the cabin and behind it they are tied into the trunk.
Maybe you guys can use parts of my design to reinforce your car. I think cardealer is already going that direction. I am using a full race cage and the rear down strut bars - the ones that come down from the main hoop to the back - will be welded directly to the lower main frame rails, right over the rear cradle mounts. That way stress and pressure introduced into the chassis through the cradle, from the drivetrain and suspension, will be directed into the cage and forward into the main structure of the car.
Even if you are not planning on a full race cage you can still have new tubular upper frame rails bent that tie into the main frame rails, strut towers, and rear firewall - replacing the weak (often rust-eaten) factory upper rails. If done right it'll be much stronger and look great too.
perk
[This message has been edited by perkidelic (edited 06-30-2003).]