quote Originally posted by avengador1: Your picture confirms my suspisions about the clutch line. You need to remember that that is a hydraulic line and it will be subjected to high pressure. If you can reflare the end, you might be able to save it, it doesn't look like you will be able to because the stub you have left is pretty short. Don't feel bad, I kinked mine when I was taking the engine out the last, and it wasn't even my first try at removing the engine as I had done it before. Lucky for me the kink wasn't too bad and I was able to reuse the line. www.fierodave.com has some NOS ones or the Fiero store has them if he can't supply you with what you need. Good luck and keep us updated on your advances.

I'll take a closer picture for you, but I didn't actually damage the line itself. The part that twisted apart is the less than an inch long connector that the line screws in to and that screws into the pipe coming off the transmission. I don't see why I wouldn't be able to get a new connector and be good to go.

**EDIT: WOO HOO I own page 2!!

[This message has been edited by Fastback 86 (edited 04-07-2004).]

For future reference, the thing to do is to unbolt the slave cylinder, and tie it off in the engine compartment. That should prevent damage to the line, rather than undoing the line. Now, you'll not only have to repair the line, but bleed the clutch hydraulics.

Heh heh, I hope not to NEED future reference. This project is fun, but its not something I want to do too many times. Hopefully after all this, it will be a long time before I even need to think about dropping the engine again.

quote Originally posted by avengador1: Your picture confirms my suspisions about the clutch line. You need to remember that that is a hydraulic line and it will be subjected to high pressure. If you can reflare the end, you might be able to save it, it doesn't look like you will be able to because the stub you have left is pretty short. Don't feel bad, I kinked mine when I was taking the engine out the last, and it wasn't even my first try at removing the engine as I had done it before. Lucky for me the kink wasn't too bad and I was able to reuse the line. www.fierodave.com has some NOS ones or the Fiero store has them if he can't supply you with what you need. Good luck and keep us updated on your advances.

UGH! I did that on the second time I dropped my engine! Gm wanted over $300cdn for a replacement.. wound up having one made.

Anyone know where I would find just the connector I twisted off? I'm gonna try some parts stores today.

Man, your garage looks a lot like mine right about now. Good work going on.

********************** and a few more bad words for good measure. I twisted off the stub trying to get it out of the line. I'm gonna play with it some more after lunch, but I'm not holding my breathe. Does FieroDave include the connector with his clutch line? I'm gonna go ahead and order it right now but I need to know if I still need to shop around for the connector.

I would think that it would, the mastercylinders were the difference, there were two styles of them, so the connector for it will be different, the screw in is the same, but on the 84-85's and some 86's they went in at an angle like / the later styles went | so thats the difference in the lines, but ive been told the 84-85's can very easily be modifed (bent) to fit the other style.

matthew

Thanks m0sh! You ever find that power pulley you had laying around?

I have heard of people fixing the line by splicing in part of a brake line from a Chrysler minivan. I will post a picture of the spare line I bought to replace mine in a bit. This way you can see what the flare looks like. I looked at the one's from the Fiero store and they say that they can be made to work with all years with some minor modifications, I don't see why you couldn't do the same with one from Fiero Dave. The brass colored part is what you need to loosen to remove the clutch line. The silver part "nut" is to hold on to prevent the line from spinning while you loosen the brass "nut".

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 04-07-2004).]

Avengedor - I'm sending you a PM too, but I want to ask here too! Please Please Please write me a parts list and instructions or SOMETHING telling me how you did that!!! I just spent the last hour trying to get the clutch line out of the car and I'm about to kill something I'm so frustrated!

Check your PMs too!
Thank you thank you thank you!

quote Originally posted by Fastback 86: ...the right sized drill bit to fix the starter tomarrow. Normally, you wouldn't need to mess with the starter, but since me and Toddster messed up on the new holes, we had to go to bigger bolts so I have to drill out the holes on the starter.

Can't you install a heli-coil in the "enlarged" hole? Seems like that would be a lot easier. Would save you from having to re-drill the starter every time you need to replace it.
I don't know all the particulars of your situation. Just an observation.

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Raydar
88 3.4 coupe...........

Coming soon...
88 Formula, presently under the knife.

I hope you have access to the right tool for installing the harmonic balancer. I'll post a picture later of it, and NO it isn't a hammer. Don't forget to reinstall the big bolt that holds it on once you are done.

BIG IMPORTANT QUESTION #5: What is this "right tool" you speak of? Hammer no worky? Is it the same tool I used to get it off, just used differently?

BIG QUESTION #6: How in the heck do I get the clutch line out of the car??? I've got it all unbolted, but I can't get it out of that black rubber box thing in the front compartment. I can't get my hand up there from underneath to get it, and I can't get out from the top. What the heck is trick for getting this out??? Its not in the Haynes or Factory manuals.

quote Originally posted by Fastback 86: BIG IMPORTANT QUESTION #7: 2.8 harmonic balancer or 3.4 harmonic balancer??

I used my 2.8 balancer.
An added bonus is that the timing mark is in the correct place. You don't have to cut a new one.

FWIW, The 22P shows one part number for 85 & 86, and another for 87 & 88.
Since only the 88 is internally balanced, balancing is *not* the reason for the different part #.
I'm guessing it has to do with the timing cover. Since you're using your Fiero timing cover anyway, use your 2.8 balancer.

Here is the picture I promised, you might be able to rent the tool from one of the autopart stores. I own my own. The tool screws onto the crank end, it has a big bearing that is compressed with a nut, to push the harmonic balancer onto the shaft evenly. Disregard my timing marks, they are on the opposite side of where they would be on a normal Fiero.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 04-08-2004).]

quote Originally posted by avengador1: I hope you have access to the right tool for installing the harmonic balancer. I'll post a picture later of it, and NO it isn't a hammer.

I thought it was called a MALLET!!!!

Thanks Avengedor, but if I can't find one, I think I'll carefully tap it on with a rubber mallet and finish it off with the center bolt.

On another note, I talked to The Hose Shop today and they could fix my clutch line, but it would cost more in labor than FieroDave's new one, so you can guess what I'm doing. I hope he offers overnight shipping. If you're reading Dave, I'll be putting in my order later tonight.

You're making great progress Scott. Unfortunately I am not available this weekend anymore. My brother is moving into a new apartment and I've been drafted

I'll be happy to lend some phone support however if you get stuck. Keep it up!

Scott; keep up the good work. looking forward to the next update. Joe

I just put it on with the nut and an impact.
but u have to have a good number of threds on befour u do this.
It does take some time, but u will get it,

quote Originally posted by Toddster: You're making great progress Scott. Unfortunately I am not available this weekend anymore. My brother is moving into a new apartment and I've been drafted I'll be happy to lend some phone support however if you get stuck. Keep it up!

Thanks for the offer Todd! Guess I won't be getting those aluminum cradle bushings from you. Oh well, no biggie. This needs to get done, I can't wait much longer. Fierobear, Stimpy, Pokey, and any other locals, I'm gonna PM and email you about helping me on Saturday. I'd like some expert help getting it back into the car.

Ok, tonights update. The 3.4 hasn't changed much, its stripped and cleaned and ready to go. The 2.8 is completely stripped of useful parts and is hanging from the hoist (for lack of something better to do with it) Some of the Trany to Engine bolts did NOT want to let go, but they eventually came loose.

Today was another day of errands as well. As noted before, its cheaper to buy a new clutch line that try to get this one fixed. Once I got the spare tire tub out of the car, getting the clutch line out was no big deal at all. Hopefully FieroDave can overnight me the new line so I can meet my 1 week deadline for getting this back on the road. I'm starting to think I should name my car "Murphy" Also got the tool I needed to remove that other freeze plug so I could move the sensor to the other end of the block. Also had to ship a part I sold to help fund this little endeavor.

Besides getting the 2.8 off the cradle, I got all the 2.8 parts cleaned, degreased, and stripped of all the old sealant and seals. I also washed the valve covers and plenum, rubbed them down with laquer thinner, and painted them. If I had the time, I would've done a much better job and sanded them down and what not, but because I need to assemble the motor tomarrow, I don't have time for that. At least they look MUCH better now.

BIG HUGE IMPORTANT QUESTION!!! (See Picture Below) The Fiero has its little Engine Shock Absorber thing instead of an Engine Mount on the front side. The 3.4 was never rigged for this little absurdity. As such, only 2 of the necessary 3 holes for the bracket are on the engine block. Now I think it will be OK with 2 of 3. but theres another problem. That missing hole is also 1 of 2 for the lower A/C bracket. So what do I do here? Just torque the other 2 bolts down real good and all the other bolts for the A/C brackets down good and go with it? I can't see the engine putting very much stress on there if all the other mounts are good, and it doesn't put a lot of torque on the A/C compressor, so it should be OK, RIGHT???

This is my good buddy Eric helping me move the old 2.8 out of the way.

Here's another general progress pic. Most of the 2.8 parts are sitting on the floor in the foreground, waiting to go on tomarrow.

And heres one of the plenum and valve covers, all painted and drying overnight before I sand off the tops and install them.

BIG IMPORTANT STUFF FIRST:

I still need to know what to do right here:

The 3.4 is missing a threaded bolt hole that the 2.8 had to hold the engine shock absorber and the lower A/C mount on. Right now, I plan to bolt the A/C bracket and the mount together, torque the rest of the bolts on there down, and go with that as I don't see an alternative.

Next - What is this bracket? I can't remember for the life of me where it came off the 2.8 and what its for. Someone please tell me!

You got this this thing nailed, Scott. Take a break and watch the hockey game today...

Make sure when you install the harmonic balancer, that the pulley mounted on it aligns with the rest of the pulleys. I remember mine had to be mounted pretty deep to accomplish this. If the pulleys don't line up correctly, you will be eating or throwing belts pretty often. Good luck with the build, it looks like you can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I just noticed that you have an extra water hose coming of the water pump, towards the dog bone side. On my car that pipe is removed and capped on the pump. I'll try to show you in a couple of pictures I have. If you need to tighten the blot on the harmonic balancer, I found that it helped to have the flywheel installed first. You can then lock some vice grips on it's edge to prevent the engine from turning over while you tighten the balancer. It will stop spinning once the vice grips wedge against the engine block.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 04-10-2004).]

I highly recommend renting a harmonic balancer installer. You can damge the balancer putting it on with a mallet.

For the ac bracket roddney dickman sells one for this comversion

Right, but Rodney's Site says its for the '88s. I have an 86 cradle with the engine shock absorber thing, hence my dilemma. Fierobear will be here in about 2 hours and hopefully he can help me out on that one.

Keep up the good work, the end end is near! Keeps posted those pics

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Black '87 GT Auto - Daily Driver & Autocrosser
Eibach springs, Koni shocks, poly bushings, rear swaybar, MSD ignition, shift-kit, custom intake scoop

quote Originally posted by Fastback 86: Right, but Rodney's Site says its for the '88s. I have an 86 cradle with the engine shock absorber thing, hence my dilemma. Fierobear will be here in about 2 hours and hopefully he can help me out on that one.

dude, you don't need air conditioning, get a sunroof . and it eats away at those precious horsies........anyway, good luck with the swap, everyhting looks really good.

edit: duh now i see you have a sunroof! (head smack) just pop that thing out!
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[This message has been edited by fierohutch (edited 04-10-2004).]