ditto

Jim

Now the starter. This area requires a lot of attention to get it right on 1st try. I spent like 2-3 hrs alone in this area. I tried that starter like 20 times and at the end I connected the battery and cranked it to make sure it worked properly. Fit on all this area items are supper tight so you don't want to go back and deal with it once the engine is on the car. This is what i used to measure the right clearance;

Now these are some pics of the adapter plate and clutch installed. The arrows shows the "new" tranny locating pins. I wished these $4 item could come with the kit as taking the old ones can sometimes be a little headache

I asked this question before. I was told that you really need an ECM from a V8 car. If I remember, it had something to do with the differences in the way the mmotors fire... V6 every 60 degrees, V8 every 45 degrees. You can get a V8 ECM prety cheap so it didn't seem to be worth questioning. Who knows.... maybe I was fed a line of crud.

You're really moving along on the swap. I'm loving all the detail pictures. They give me the itch .

Roy

[This message has been edited by mrfixit58 (edited 10-11-2004).]

I'm glad you like the problem areas because that is mainly what I didn't find in other V8 build threads. And like you said, that is what causes grief for us backyard mechanics. Will see some more

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-Chris -
Custom Gun Metal 86 GT 4.9 V8 5spd

Build up tread or MODS w/ Pics

[This message has been edited by Black-Azz-GT (edited 10-11-2004).]

Here after finally aligning the A/C compressor it was touching the cradle at that point;

This is the top view after it was aligned. Notice that I didn't need the extra bracket to install it to the front mount, i.e. it is mounted directly to it and belt alignment was good.

Also if you are using a TPI intake the trunk hinge will need to be cut and trunk rail trimmed.

Like many others I removed the stock sound deadning material from the firewall because it was dirty as hell. But I didn't want to leave it like that because that WILL increase cabin noise no matter what anyone tells me. So I went to HomeDepot and with a fellow member recommendation bought a roll of water heater insulation blanket for $20 and aluminum tape. Used the stock one as a model to cut and installed it back. Here is the in-process and end result

C'ya!

How did you fix cradle where the ac compressor touches? I just hammered where mine hit.

I got some plastic ones at Lowes. They have a big drawer area with these type of parts. I attached the strut to the head. Also I grinded a little (+/- 1/8") the cradle area where the compressor was touching. It shouldn't move much because of the solid front mount.

Alex,

Why are you keeping the throttle body pre-heater? Living in south Florida, you shouldn't need it no more than you would on a stock Fiero. On the TPI that I put into my 68 Camaro, I completely elimitated it and it really cleaned up the motor.

Roy

I too have a SBC (Carbed at this time) in my 88 and you have done a very good job addressing most of the "TIGHT" areas. There are varied ways to address them - like the lower tranny bolt - I clearnaced the bolt head to make room. Also, I went a completely different route with the oil filter to eliminate the hoses and to to keep them upright.
Here is my buildup thread is you want to see some other alternative methods:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/033900.html

I also went the electric WP route the first time... but remote mounted mine to keep from cutting the sheet metal in the wheel well. I have since gone to a mechanical belt driven waterpump that does not require any cutting and runs directly off the archie balancer with the same belt that drives everything else. This WP is a custom made prototype that might be offered late this year. This won't help you now, but maybe someday.
Here are more details of the WP
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/055138.html

Archie

Bummer . I really hope things work out for you there. But, if not, try Tampa (shameless plug to coax another Fiero nut into my area).

Roy

Let's continue. Here is my solution to the driver side water plumbing. I used part of the V6 coolant pipe and then bought couple of custom hoses to run a pipe thru the top of the firewall. Here is more or less how it will look;
I'm using a Moroso adapter which conver from the big hose to the smaller one and provides a high point for filling the system;

The hose that connects to the thermostat housing is cut and the other end used at the Moroso adapter. A pipe then connects both ends;

Then I use this "S" shaped hose to connect to the stock Fiero coolant pipe that has been cut to fit;

Please, Please PLEASE give us more info on this...

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1986 SE 350 V8

Ditto. I hope you go into as much detail on the wiring as you have on the motor install. I've got a spare V6 harness, complete TPI system, my $400 V8 Fiero, and a BAD itch .

One comment on your coolant hose filler... Isn't it going to be restricted by the deck lid? Meaning, when you onen the deck lid will you be able to get to the filler neck?

Roy

[This message has been edited by mrfixit58 (edited 10-13-2004).]

It looks like but not. Cap will be at the level of the bottom of the hinge bracket. If you look at your engine compartment you will see there is a lot of space back there (not exactly with the V6). Also I'll be able to move the hose forward a little for fill ups. When I arrive to the wiring I'll give more details. I bought the equipment to burn my proms for the TPI and Fiero