I will be at Tower Shops this Friday and I will have the elbow and K/N filter with me.
If you can't make it call me or PM me or you can just respond here .

Clem; I can stop by when I leave work at 5:00PM. I'm at Sunrise and University so it should be a 5-10 min drive.

Running lean will generate more heat. Hopefully bu the end of this week I may have the stock TPS on and I'll be able to tune it better with the A/F meter. I'm kind of getting use to the deep loud exhaust note

Great job Alex. It looks fantastic.

Question, though... Why bring the TPS sensor up straight and not leave it going out the front? If there is an interference problem, why not make a pigtail that's soldered to the TPS pins? That should give you clearance.

quote Originally posted by RCR: Great job Alex. It looks fantastic. Question, though... Why bring the TPS sensor up straight and not leave it going out the front? If there is an interference problem, why not make a pigtail that's soldered to the TPS pins? That should give you clearance.

At least on 88s the stock TPI TPS points forward and the shock tower is in the way. Someone here suggested using the 4 cyl Fiero TPS which I tried. Problem is that it is still too tall for a coupe grill and also for some reason (maybe because it is not an A/C Delco) it is not reading as it should (.5-4.5++V). This is a very critical sensor so I need it to work right. So now I will try to mod it as shown in the first picture on this thread; https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20030531-2-030342.html

Alex: Will the sensor clear without the connector plugged in? From this pic, it looks like it does:

If it does, all you need to do is make a pigtail that has the wires soldered directly to the sensor pins. Silicone the end to seal it. The pigtail will connect to the existing connector.

Good luck...

Bob

Look closely at that picture. That area in front of the TPS has been cut a big shunk. Also that's a Zumalt kit (if I remember correctly, CalKid car?) which gives more clearance in that area (adapter plate is thinner). This is the clearance I have in my car in that area;

Eww... That's pretty tight. Sorry, no more ideas here. Looks like moving the TPS is the only real choice. You might want to check the resistance value of that 4cyl TPS. There's no real reason why it only goes 1/2 way unless the value is different, or the travel is different. It is looking real good, though. Even if you did take the Tin man's arm.

Final update. I have been so unlucky these days but everything has been resolved. The other night during a test drive I start hearing this ticking metal jumping noise. A rocker arm got loose and damaged the pushrod while bending the lifter retainer metal spring. We had to do a heart bypass surgery thru the belly button in order to avoid to take the whole intake off but we were successful and were able to fix the metal spring to hold the retainer. Then when I went out for a test drive and to the auto parts the shifter suddenly stopped working. I had to put manually the car in 2nd and drive 3-4 miles home like that. The selector cable broke. Went out to buy parts at auto parts and got a traffic citation Then after fixing the cable that night I took the car for another test drive and the shifter cable pin (at the tranny) came loose and the cable got disconnected. At least that was an easy one. Oh well...
The good thing is I received the LM-1 and started working on the A/F ratio. It was running at 25! Adjusted the injector base pulse constant and took it to around 14 when my neighbor came complaining about the noise It was 10:00 PM and didn't like my nice exhaust note. Anyway, this tool is a must in order to properly tune a moded injected engine. Soon this baby will run as smooth as a Lexus

Sweet, I'm planning the same swap into my '86. Now I know who the Subject Matter Expert is!!!

Drove the car tonight again. Now with correct (for current situation) A/F ratio it is much more (80%) smoother and better daily driver candidate. Now for the "fine" tunning using the BLM, etc. Thank God I didn't have any issue while driving this time. Exhaust note is very sweet

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: Drove the car tonight again. Now with correct (for current situation) A/F ratio it is much more (80%) smoother and better daily driver candidate. Now for the "fine" tunning using the BLM, etc. Thank God I didn't have any issue while driving this time. Exhaust note is very sweet

Saw your post in the mall, why do you need a tranny?

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: Look closely at that picture. That area in front of the TPS has been cut a big shunk. Also that's a Zumalt kit (if I remember correctly, CalKid car?) which gives more clearance in that area (adapter plate is thinner). This is the clearance I have in my car in that area;

You are correct, I'm running a modified Zumalt Kit, placing the engine further to the left.

I've seen a vertically mounted TPS that will get you more clearance without doing severe surgery to the shock tower, believe Archie would have the details on this sensor.

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Car History: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/025670.html

Okay Alex your vacation is over and you should be back from Mexico by now sooooooooo?

Ja! I was lucky to see this today. My wife is in the hospital (Pleurisy) and I just took a glance here. My tranny was bad (diff. bearings) before the swap and I didn't know. I thought it was the release bearing. Finally broke into pieces and made a nice black line from the entrance of my development to near my house. Now I can tell people visiting for first time to just follow the black line I'm still trying to locate a local Getrag but has been unsuccessful

How about an up-date on your wife, the car can wait. Is she getting better?

Bump.
I have learned so much from this thread.
I hope your wife is feeling better!

B
U
M
P

Thanks guys. She's fine. Fiero is not. Tranny broke from inside out into the clutch area. If you see it from front it has a circle lid about 3" dia. It has a bearing there and it popped the lid out and damaged the new Spec pressure plate and spilled tranny oil too. So the disc may be waster too I'll post pictures later. I may try another clutch company. Didn't like the chatter of the Stage III. Will see. Need to decide soon. Time is running out...

Sorry to hear that. Please take some pics, if you can so we can get some failure analysis. It might help future swaps.
Glad to here the wife is doing better, though!!

If you're running a basically stock L98, Archie's Centerforce clutch might be a good alternative to the Spec.

John his L98 is probably putting out 50 MORE H.P. than my LT1 that you drove last year or so.

Hey Alex, it was nice to see you, Lou and Frank at the Hot Rod Sunday Show. I did real good in the car show picking up an award for BEST G.M. I won a plaque which was nice but the shirt they gave to first place winners says--Hot Rod Sunday---Class Winner.

[This message has been edited by LT188GT (edited 02-06-2005).]

Congratulations! You have a very nice and clean GT

quote Originally posted by LT188GT: John his L98 is probably putting out 50 MORE H.P. than my LT1 that you drove last year or so.

Well, that would be different, now wouldn't it.

Ok. Here is what could happen to a nice new clutch if your tranny explodes in the wrong place. Originally I thought this tranny was fine and what was bad was the clutch release bearing as the symptom/sound was the same as it did before for me. When I took my 1st V8 test drive I got the terrible news Sound was still there with new clutch. Problem was tranny. I drove the car near 500 miles because I wanted to break in the engine and one day coming from work all these terrible sounds started to come from back there. Finally about 1/10 mile from home it broke and spilled all the fluid making a very nice black line from the entrance of my development to my home. Now I tell people to just follow the black line when they need my address
Here is where the tranny broke and all that nice material went into the clutch area. The lid covering that was between the clutch, the housing and the fork. Ugly.

The pressure plate may be reused but I will just get another one. The flywheel got some dings but I resurfaced it and rebalanced it. Actually the balance was fine.

awesome thread, cant wait to start my tpi project....just need $....loooooots of $

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---"Didn't those catch fire?"---
---"Why didn't you get an MR2?"---
---"The engine is WHERE?"---
---Liking Fieros is a lonely business---

i would like to see a picture of the pressure plate side of the clutch. i also had an issue with a spec clutch. the center hub stuck out too far and hit the center of the throw out bearing instead of the outer part that pushes on the pressure plate. they did send a new disk for free and never asked for the old one back.

There is nothing wrong with the other side. Beleive me. Tranny failure has nothing to do with it either.

More little problems keep coming. I found out that the front tranny mount was loose and missing one bolt I guess that's why my engine was rocking more than 1/4". Took the mount off (to replace with Rodney's) and found out that the cradle is cracked in that area. I know it is a known problem. Now to deal with it

I had some cracks in the same place, similar to the first pic. I welded them and ground the welds smooth and then re-painted. The biggest crack I had was only about an inch, though.

My roommate, GSXRBOBBY, made a mount for his car. But can't use it because he needs to relocate the front crossmember. It uses a rubber mount for a full size Chevy trans. 4X4, part #2638
If you want to try it, PM me your address and I can send it to you.

Steel mount, kinda rough looking.

Rubber mount pic
[imghttps://images.fiero.nl/pffimages/43943_2.jpg[i/img]

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Well you can drill a hole in the end of the crack then take a grinder and open it up.
Weld it then grind smooth. I would also weld on a plate to help distribute the load.
If thats your weak point then its going to crack again.
I hope to avoid this by not leting my motor move on the cradle, thus not letting it load up every time and cause those stress cracks.
Solid mounts will be used on motor and tranny.
I also dont plan on driving the car every day so if its a little harsh I wont mind.

[This message has been edited by Jake_Dragon (edited 02-13-2005).]

I bought a 1/4" plate to copy the pattern and weld it underneath the area. That should fix that one for good. I'll weld the cracks on the top too. At least at the end this will be a better install. Hope to be ready by Daytona. Still so many little things to fix and do and only three available work weekends before it

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: I bought a 1/4" plate to copy the pattern and weld it underneath the area. That should fix that one for good. I'll weld the cracks on the top too. At least at the end this will be a better install. Hope to be ready by Daytona. Still so many little things to fix and do and only three available work weekends before it

That should do it.
Do drill a hole in the end of the cracks before you weld them. That will stop the crack from getting longer.
I had to start driving my GT so I wont be starting the V8 swap as soon as I want.
Cant wait to see your car at Daytona, you going to be there all weekend?

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula:

Alex,

I just had to say... That is FUUUUUGLY!!!

Hope you get it repaired soon.
Roy

Tranny sholdn't take longer than two more weeks I hope.

Jake, Yes I'll be there from Friday afternoon until Sunday

Shifting yet?

Some updates. I have lots of more pics. Just don't have time to post. Finally got a tranny. It was completely rebuilt. Fixed a small oil leak, reinforced the front tranny mount area and powder coated more parts. I got new poly tranny mounts from Rodney. This is where the problems started. For some reason when I placed the tranny/engine combo back on the cradle the front tranny mount didn't aligned It was off by about 1/2" center to center. After some big wiggling we were able to fit it but mount needed to be pushed with a big C clamp to make the holes align. When I put the cradle back in the car the TB clearances got screwed up because the engine moved a little towards the trunk. So now I'm reworking the shock tower again to gain clearance. The TB intake rubber elbow will not fit. I have about 1/4" between TB snout and shock tower. I redesigned the TPS bracket because it was on top of the shock tower too. All this is consuming much needed time for other items. Also the car is overheating pretty bad. Still need to trouble shoot that. Also with the new clutch the pedal is very loose. It engages in gear with engine running but not smoothly. Another area to troubleshoot Then I still need to cut more the trunk lid, install new pads, recharge A/C, etc. etc. and drive/debug car. Hope I can make it to Daytona with this car.....

Great thread so far Alex. I've only read page 2 and 6 .
I had a similar problem with my poly mounts from WCF. It seems they were a little out and changed the whole alignment of the engine/tranny. I actually had to egg out the rear tranny mount holes and slide it over an eighth of an inch to get the proper dimensions.

Your thread has made it to my favorites. I'll probably be PMing you to ask a few specifics later on.