BBF, the big block chevy is still a work in progress. All the hard parts are finished with only the cradle fab left. I had the 500cid motor from the donor however I bailed on this motor due to it's weak rods above 3500rpm's, that and I'm sure it weighs more than 50lbs over a small block chevy. I know rear weight is a trade off so I'm using as much aluminum as I can afford. Again this is a budget build. The headers are from a 67/69 camaro and will require the left side to be modified slightly. They point forward and down, I'm not sure on the routing yet could go out the side could go out the rear.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by big block fiero:

I will try to post some picks of axles, hitch bar location, ect and hopefully this job will look as simple as I know it is. I could pull my caddy motor out and put any thing else in its place without moving the tranny or welding anything, other than the transition to A different style of motor mount.

Once you properly define the tranny placement and secure it the job is easy.

I think some of the info reguarding engines other than cadillac or oldsmobile makes the build sound difficult.

once you make your chosen engine resemble the caddy or olds its easy and would pop right into my car without altering the cradle.

If you choose the caddy or olds you can get this done in 2 months and under A thousand bucks (minus the cost of the car). I did mine in A month.

This is freaking awesome!!!I have been waiting for this information for a long time. "The proper mounting location for the TH 425 on a stock Fiero cradle" This would help me immensely. Once you come through with a diagram or a blue print on exactly where to weld the tranny mounts, I wouldn't have any excuses to finish my project.

Thanks
Prasad

[This message has been edited by WikedV6 (edited 12-11-2006).]

i think you have a few people waiting to see your pictorial documentary (me being one of them, checking this thread at least twice a day to see any new info, lol). cant wait to read more about your car BBC, later.

I now just got A digital camera but still cant get picks on this forum. If someone said give me A pick of the whatever, I would walk right outside and snap away. I copied pictures off my printer that I could fax to anyone if that would help.I know people gave there email address to send picks to but I need the actual type written stuff that I type in to send it. Those who tried to help probably thought I had basic computor skills but I dont.

[This message has been edited by big block fiero (edited 12-11-2006).]

you have pics? thats great, im sorry im not very computer savy either. however, i never used it but the blue button called "Pennocks Image Poster" on the far bottom of the screen is supposed to be how you post pics on PFF. if this doesnt work for you, then free bump for someone who knows how to post pics. hope this helps.

I would be willng to help you get the pics from your camera to here but my guess is you have some rather large files in your camera. Do you know how to resize the pics? I see you have Netzero for an email address so I can even walk you through the exact process of attaching the photos and sending them. I guess we could try it to see of they are too large, if you are not familiar with reducing the size. If you're interested let me know here and I shoot you an email with instructions.

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toddshotrods.com - wanna ride?
crazy projects, features, articles, art & more

Keep in mind this is supposed to be the car that can beat ( on stock 14"s ) an All Wheel Drive WRX STI

Thank you purple reign. To all you builders, see the pick of the cradle with the trailer hitch. That hitch is the exact center and is under my license plate. that portion with hitch is touching the underside of the stock plastic bumper. My tranny mount that is stock for A 76 eldo, is setting on top of that bar strait above the hitch. I notched out A rectangle in the plastic where the tranny mount occurs.

On the completed car when looking at the back you cant see the tranny mount but if the cradle were lowerd at all you would then see it. This tranny placement will give adequate ground clearance and if the axles are close to the cradle (wich they should be so the CV joints dont bend to severe an angle) The engine will have A slight forward lean.

My finished cradle has some round tube steal That braces A few spots but I never took picks after it was finished. I will be out of town till sunday, Hope I was descriptive enough for some of you to move forward with confidence.

quote Originally posted by PURPLE REIGN: Keep in mind this is supposed to be the car that can beat ( on stock 14"s ) an All Wheel Drive WRX STI

Keep in mind that there were over 100 witnesses. And Matt's WRX is Highly Modified. Still wish I had gotten some pics of the wheelies this thing pulls.

****And for those that are looking for more pics;***** Just click this link******

quote Originally posted by Porsche928DRP: Keep in mind that there were over 100 witnesses. And Matt's WRX is Highly Modified. Still wish I had gotten some pics of the wheelies this thing pulls. ****And for those that are looking for more pics;***** Just click this link******

i see that car pulling wheelies VERY easily, however it couldnt have been doing it using stock 14's unless he somehow got some really wide tires on those 14" rims, or maybe he modified his 14" rims to be 14x8's in the rear or 14x7's (ive seen people actually widen the stock style fiero rims so it still looks stock)

on stock sized 14" tires that car would burn the crap outta the tires.

matthew

he has 550ft/lbs torque and i have about 400 hp/tq with my sbc fiero and i have done extensive front end weight reduction to it, i can pull the front tires off the ground shifting into 2nd gear with wider tires.... with low gears (3.08 i think you said BBF) and an auto tranny plus the exra weight of the BB and tranny on top of the drive tires, also since the tranny sticks out behind the drive tires, this acts as a titter-totter which heps weight distribution for wheelies. (for example instead of front/rear weight distribution of 40/60, its 30/70). im sure with all of this on BBF's side, he can do some world class fiero weelies on stock 14" wheels.

EDIT: if you look at this pic it shows that the majority of the weight is BEHIND the center of the rear tires...

quote Originally posted by PURPLE REIGN:

------------------
1986 Silver 5 speed Fiero 3.4 DOHC
Bored .30, Fully balanced and blueprinted
13* retard exhaust cam, FFP UDP, much more.
13.93@101mph as it is on the street

355/400hp sbc, 4 bolt main
spec stage 3, and many other extras.
87 GT 5-speed Getrag, power everything.

[This message has been edited by flames4me (edited 12-15-2006).]

Quote "For those of you who don't know, Joe Wyman wrote a "Guideline" cd for this conversion. Although it contained many minor mistakes ( I believe it was written, but not edited ) it pretty much walked you thru the entire conversion, and provided those who did see it with inspiration."

Is that information still available?
Also, can you tell me what kind of ground clearance you have at the oil pan and at the bottom of the chain case?

Thanks,
Jim

quote Originally posted by Porsche928DRP: Keep in mind that there were over 100 witnesses. And Matt's WRX is Highly Modified. Still wish I had gotten some pics of the wheelies this thing pulls. ****And for those that are looking for more pics;***** Just click this link******

Things still havent changed in redneck country. Dumbass

People are calling you out everywhere, just on basic physics and you still think people are going believe your ............unreal.

And I KNOW were not talking about the same crowd of streeracers, since there isnt hardly 100 people in one place at one time. Maybe the ricer & wannabe crowd racing behind McDonalds has 100 people.

quote Originally posted by John Miller: I had the 500cid motor from the donor however I bailed on this motor due to it's weak rods above 3500rpm's, that and I'm sure it weighs more than 50lbs over a small block chevy.

The stock bottom end of the 500 will take 6000 rpm if built properly.
http://www.cadillacpower.com/forum/index.php/topic,2092.0.html

quote Originally posted by Jim_S: Quote "For those of you who don't know, Joe Wyman wrote a "Guideline" cd for this conversion. Although it contained many minor mistakes ( I believe it was written, but not edited ) it pretty much walked you thru the entire conversion, and provided those who did see it with inspiration." Is that information still available? Also, can you tell me what kind of ground clearance you have at the oil pan and at the bottom of the chain case? Thanks, Jim

Jim,
Pm sent, please check.

The 325 oil pan is @ flush level with the bottom of the cradle. So is the LT1 oilpan.

David Breeze

It looks like we have a child trolling this thread.
I believe that every time either Matt (BBF) or myself have seen Shawn (PR) around we have always complimented his car, so I don't quite get his pointless attacks.
Shawn (PR) should have read the previous posts because "Flames4Me" did an excellent job of explaining it in laymans terms that he should be able to comprehend.
Shawn, take your own advise "If you don't have anything nice to say, stay the ***** off of my thread"

Ok, if you look real close you can see some air under the front tires, and if these digital cameras only took the pic when you tried I would have had a better shot (I was a bit late) ....At the very least it is very evident that the suspension is "topped out".



And to further illustrate that us "rednecks" from the tiny town of Minneapolis have No idea of how to make our cars have any power, or set them up to have any weight transfer at all.....










After all, we are just part of the "Wanna be crowd" that you might find around Porkys.

I have both a N* and a '71 Olds 455 in my yard and have been going back and forth on which one to put in an '85 notchback.
Electrical hassles with the N* verses sheer size fitting in the 455.

This is one of my saved threads helping me decide.
Lots going for a one wire hookup carbed engine. 32 valve wide powerband in a lighter engine looks really good also. Decisions decisions decisions. Big dreams, small skills, large tool collection.

Keep it coming, I'll keep reading. Except I skip over the non-tech name calling posts

quote Originally posted by Porsche928DRP: Shawn (PR) should have read the previous posts because "Flames4Me" did an excellent job of explaining it in laymans terms that he should be able to comprehend. ... And to further illustrate that us "rednecks" from the tiny town of Minneapolis have No idea of how to make our cars have any power, or set them up to have any weight transfer at all..... ... After all, we are just part of the "Wanna be crowd" that you might find around Porkys.

first of all, thank you, i guess since i saw the common sence aspect of weight disribution in fieros, especially this one, i just had to explain the reason behind the theory (laymens terms). that weight distribution is why i got into fieros in the first place, im not a cornering type person, i just love the feel of a car when it hooks like no other on the straight away... with my 3.4DOHC i pull away from some AWD cars, yes, i have beat in the 1/4 mile stock WRXs, SRT4s, etc on street tires, and pump gas. and my SBC fiero can pull the front tires off the ground with wider back tires. and guess what, now that BBF has come along and showed almost step by step how to put any BB in a fiero, i have a new project, lol... you wouldnt have any spare trannys and CV axles laying around would you BBF?

and second, that was a terrific post, up here in MN and WI we only have a few months out of the year to enjoy our pride and joy, and the rest of the year to work on them, lol, we dont have to worry about having a running car to show off in the middle of october thru may, lol. thats why MN/WI has the largest number of Harley riders, rat rod type car builders (looks slow/stock/ugly, but goes like a bat outa hell) and beer drinkers, lol. (im personally a member of DAMM, Drunks Against Mad Mothers).

ps. BBF looking foreward to seeing you on the track next racing season.

quote Originally posted by Porsche928DRP: It looks like we have a child trolling this thread. I believe that every time either Matt (BBF) or myself have seen Shawn (PR) around we have always complimented his car, so I don't quite get his pointless attacks. Shawn (PR) should have read the previous posts because "Flames4Me" did an excellent job of explaining it in laymans terms that he should be able to comprehend. Shawn, take your own advise "If you don't have anything nice to say, stay the ***** off of my thread" Ok, if you look real close you can see some air under the front tires, and if these digital cameras only took the pic when you tried I would have had a better shot (I was a bit late) ....At the very least it is very evident that the suspension is "topped out". And to further illustrate that us "rednecks" from the tiny town of Minneapolis have No idea of how to make our cars have any power, or set them up to have any weight transfer at all..... After all, we are just part of the "Wanna be crowd" that you might find around Porkys.

Well, in the pic of the fiero, it is NOT pulling the front end off the ground. That, and you will not get tire smoke form the rear tires if the front end was coming up. That also doesn't work. The reason why a car can pull the front end off the ground is traction. If the tire is spinning, it does not have traction, therefore without the traction, the energy is going to waste, and will not be pulling the front end up. THAT is physics. The car is not going to do a wheelie with the tries spinning.

All the cars you posted have much wider and stickier rubber on them than the 14 inch fiero wheel. The ones on the strips, probably running either a drag radial, or a full out slick.

I have seen this car, even talked to him for a while, and to be honest, yes, it does have a 500ci engine in the back, but it really isnt that impressive. BBF was even talking to me about how he relocated the front shock on the indy my moving the lower mount about 1 1/2 inches, and that FIXED the bump steer problem.

Shawn is quick on the reply button some times, but that is just him. He does know what he is talking about, and is quick to help someone out. He has helped me out of some very difficult situations.

And about the digital camera, either learn to use that one properly, or get a different camera. I have no difficulty with either of mine gettng the picture I want. Thats no excuse.

Seems that traction is presently the topic. All secrets revealed right now for the benifit of pennocks members. My car has always hooked pretty good and pulls well even when spinning. I belive the day of the picks it was spinning while decending from A wheelie on A crappy surface.Part of this dynamic is that the car weight transfers so fast that energy is stored in the chassis. Most of the time under poor conditions the chassis will leave hard and not spin till after the suspension tops out. sometimes the car has hooked after the wheels are already up.other times its spinning and so doesn't get up or comes down sooner. At the track I just stand on the throttle and have never gotten the car to spin at all that I know of.

We typically street race on cold nights on sometimes crappy surface. I have gone up in smoke A few times and so have since worked the suspension.I presently have no front swaybar and this hasn't seemed to change the handling at all (less weight and friction, quicker weight transfer). I have long threaded adjusting stops that I tune to adjust the top out height of the front suspension. At the track I tune it to top out really low because I dont need the weight transfer. It wont wheelie if I set it low enough. For the street this suspension was been altered to top out one inch higher than stock. The front coils have been cut down one inch to allow A total of two inches extra launch travel. The front suspension was originally designed for A chevette having A front motor that carried mass. The fiero has less mass so the shocks dont need to be so aggressive. The solution is to weld in an extra pair of shock mounts to the lower A arm that is A little closer to the pivotel axis so the shock moves with less total travel. The car then feels like less of A go-kart in that you dont feel every crack in the road resonating thru the body. If you want it more aggressive at auto-cross just pull the bolts and swing the shocks out ward to stock (ten minutes). I also usually in the fall run 90/10 's up front with only a slight reduction in handling.

The rear A arms have been pitched longetudinally upwards in the front to torque bias extra downward force under excelleration loads. The dissadvantage to this is that you tend to transfer weight off the back wheels during braking. Possibly ive got enough weight back there that I havent noticed any difference and havent skidded the rear wheels or needed to install an adjustable proportioning valve.

Parts of my build are optimized well but much is left to be done. Anybody on this forum can take what ive done and expand on it far beyond what ive done. I simply offer to encourage intrest and save members alot of trial and error in providing a benchmark for wich to expand on. Members of all types who have the MPH but not the ET please evaluate my chassis mods for yourself and report back what worked for you for the benifit of all pennocks members.

[This message has been edited by big block fiero (edited 12-17-2006).]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by justa6:

and that FIXED the bump steer problem.

Well we all know this isn't true, probably I combined some topics and ment that the sway bar removal fixed some oversteer issues.

[This message has been edited by big block fiero (edited 12-17-2006).]

quote Originally posted by justa6: Well, in the pic of the fiero, it is NOT pulling the front end off the ground. That, and you will not get tire smoke form the rear tires if the front end was coming up. That also doesn't work. The reason why a car can pull the front end off the ground is traction. If the tire is spinning, it does not have traction, therefore without the traction, the energy is going to waste, and will not be pulling the front end up. THAT is physics. The car is not going to do a wheelie with the tries spinning. All the cars you posted have much wider and stickier rubber on them than the 14 inch fiero wheel. The ones on the strips, probably running either a drag radial, or a full out slick. I have seen this car, even talked to him for a while, and to be honest, yes, it does have a 500ci engine in the back, but it really isnt that impressive. BBF was even talking to me about how he relocated the front shock on the indy my moving the lower mount about 1 1/2 inches, and that FIXED the bump steer problem. Shawn is quick on the reply button some times, but that is just him. He does know what he is talking about, and is quick to help someone out. He has helped me out of some very difficult situations. And about the digital camera, either learn to use that one properly, or get a different camera. I have no difficulty with either of mine gettng the picture I want. Thats no excuse.

It's no use Joel...........................in some cases you can teach book smarts, but you cant teach common sense. Stupidity IS hereditary.

quote Originally posted by big block fiero: [QUOTE]Originally posted by justa6: and that FIXED the bump steer problem. Well we all know this isn't true, probably I combined some topics and ment that the sway bar removal fixed some oversteer issues.

removing the front sway bar will promote MORE oversteer. by using a stiffer front swaybar it will promote understeer. by adding a rear sway bar it increases the chance of oversteer.

the fiero understeers (pushes in a corner) stock. it will oversteer, but understeer is built into alomst all cars becasue it is safer than if the back end comes around.

OVERsteer is where the back end wants to pass the front end. UNDERsteer is when the front end plows in a corner. when i first heard you say this with the swaybar (in a different thread i believe) i thought it was a type. just clarifying in case you were confused on oversteer vs understeer.

study the setups on autocrossing and talk to racers. look at drifting set ups (where they want oversteer) i am more interested going fast on a racetrack (not a dragstrip) so i have studied a lot about the different setups, along with expermented with differnet setups.

quote Originally posted by justa6: removing the front sway bar will promote MORE oversteer. by using a stiffer front swaybar it will promote understeer. by adding a rear sway bar it increases the chance of oversteer. the fiero understeers (pushes in a corner) stock. it will oversteer, but understeer is built into alomst all cars becasue it is safer than if the back end comes around. OVERsteer is where the back end wants to pass the front end. UNDERsteer is when the front end plows in a corner. when i first heard you say this with the swaybar (in a different thread i believe) i thought it was a type. just clarifying in case you were confused on oversteer vs understeer. study the setups on autocrossing and talk to racers. look at drifting set ups (where they want oversteer) i am more interested going fast on a racetrack (not a dragstrip) so i have studied a lot about the different setups, along with expermented with differnet setups.

These guys speak jibberish. You cant explain anything in simple terms and expect them to understand.

You'll just get another jibberish answer totally outside of common sense and still say " my $hit's faster than your $hit "

quote Originally posted by big block fiero: I also usually in the fall run 90/10 's up front with only a slight reduction in handling.

where do you get these? iv ben looking for a set for my car for a while, any part numbers, or place to get them? MAS racing parts on university ave maybe?

quote Originally posted by PURPLE REIGN: These guys speak jibberish. You cant explain anything in simple terms and expect them to understand. You'll just get another jibberish answer totally outside of common sense and still say " my $hit's faster than your $hit "

lol, from this i think your into handling and keeping all 4 tires on the ground as evenly as possible... you like the feeling of pulling 1+ G's in the skidpad and dont care about what it doees in the 1/4 mile because that is not what it was built for, there is nothing wrong with that, everyone has their own preferences. otheres like the feeling of getting two tires off the ground with raw engine power and dont care about what it does in the skidpad b/c it wasnt built for that. the way i figure it, if your a car guy your a friend, i dont care if you have a show car choptop merc, or a daily beater civic that your putting a couple bucks into to make it better. if you share a passion for cars and are willing to talk about them i along with many other car guys and gals have open ears and ideas to share.

i like having $hit thats faster than other peoples $hit.

quote Originally posted by flames4me: i like having $hit thats faster than other peoples $hit.

i eat alot of greasy, fried food, and mine IS faster than yours


as to the topic.. why is it possible for a sbc fiero to wheelie stand but not his 500ci Indy??? I mean hell cardealer popped wheelies in his GT that he had decked out, i dont see much of a difference... as far tires and traction.. I'VE launched a 1984 Toyota Supra with twin turbo and NOS on street tires and managed to get 3" of clearance in the front WHILE smoking the tires.. my brothers 81 Mustang coupe with a heavily modded 351 got over 2 feet on street tires while smoking them.. my cousins modded 98 Z28 pulled the front tires while smoking the rears on street tires... I could name a few other cars that have all done the same thing too...

I've never met, talked to or seen BBF or his car other than on this post. Not saying I beleive anything he says, but I am saying I was doing my 500 swap almost the same way he is and I dont see why it isn't possible.. If I got a 75 El to make a 15.8 1/4 run on old a$$ street tires that made more smoke than anything and took forever to catch traction and on a motor that hadnt had a tune up in over 3 years and weighed as much as it did... I think thats kinda proving the fact that an clean, tuned 500 in a Fiero should be pretty damn quick..

oh yeah.. and if being a redneck has anything to do with anything.. I guess since I put a 91 4 door grand am on a 86 4x4 S10 frame with a 350 in it just for sh!t$ % grins, then i guess I'm gulity of that too..


and as to PR. I've never met or talked to him either, but I have heard alot of very good things about him from alot of people.. Not saying what hes saying is right or wrong. But untill you do the same swap this topic is talking about, please try to keep out of this thread, its not making you look very good talking smack about a swap you havent done yourself..

[This message has been edited by NSAN1T (edited 12-18-2006).]

quote Originally posted by NSAN1T: oh yeah.. and if being a redneck has anything to do with anything.. I guess since I put a 91 4 door grand am on a 86 4x4 S10 frame with a 350 in it just for sh!t$ % grins, then i guess I'm gulity of that too..

Quick hijack for a second. Do you have pictures? I'd love to see that lmao

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1311281705
I wish I had more info on the car/ engine and trans in the first clip of the video. I wonder how much weight in the trunk it would take to get a stock fiero to do wheelies?

quote Originally posted by Silentassassin185: Quick hijack for a second. Do you have pictures? I'd love to see that lmao

unfortunately no. Had to get rid of it after I rolled it into a creek. found out it couldn't go up a 70+ degree incline at an angle the 8" lift threw te whole balance off.. it wasn't pretty afterwards either.. luckily enough I rigged it with quick release door hinges so we good curise it doorless. I bailed out the door when it started to roll. sprained (SP) an ankle too.. whole roof was on the headrests of the seats LOL.. luckily enough the engine still ran so a friend bought from me..

I can build ya one

-=END HIJACk=-

Kind of back to the subject. Was thinking about the reverse rotation and using the Turbo 400 parts and the bigger clutch pack. In my head this might work, if the parts are right. But I still see the pinion gear driving the ring gear in reverse rather than the normal direction, which is what should happen if the differential is flipped over. Got me going forwards and backwards and sometimes sideways with the directional changes, but I will figure it out.

Jim

sorry to sound like a dumba$$ but, whats the advantages of reverse rotation?

quote Originally posted by flames4me: sorry to sound like a dumba$$ but, whats the advantages of reverse rotation?

Reverse rotation brings the weight of the engine and transmssion on and ahead of the rear axle. If you do not reverse rotation you will be adding alot of weight behind the rear axle which is not good for overall handling. It is all about frt/rear weight transfer.

Pete

------------------

quote Originally posted by justa6: removing the front sway bar will promote MORE oversteer. by using a stiffer front swaybar it will promote understeer. by adding a rear sway bar it increases the chance of oversteer. the fiero understeers (pushes in a corner) stock. it will oversteer, but understeer is built into alomst all cars becasue it is safer than if the back end comes around. OVERsteer is where the back end wants to pass the front end. UNDERsteer is when the front end plows in a corner. when i first heard you say this with the swaybar (in a different thread i believe) i thought it was a type. just clarifying in case you were confused on oversteer vs understeer. study the setups on autocrossing and talk to racers. look at drifting set ups (where they want oversteer) i am more interested going fast on a racetrack (not a dragstrip) so i have studied a lot about the different setups, along with expermented with differnet setups.

I have misstated over VS under(steer) probably from watching to many leslie neilson reruns of airplane. Now I have A question for you, Lets say you have A V-6 fiero with the typical 1" coil drop in the front, poly bushings, and A fiero store rear swaybar. All is well but now you put a 150 lb weight in the trunk that will be there perminetly at a point of high center of gravity. You want the car to understeer just a tad for less expeirienced drivers to run the quarter. Would you remove the rear swaybar and call it done? put in a heavier front sway bar and call it done? armor-all the front tires like the red necks and call it done? or other. I'm calling this question part one in preperation for part two.

[This message has been edited by big block fiero (edited 12-24-2006).]

Cardealer had a giant race motor in his car and the whole thing was built to run quarters. It wasn't a 30+ year old Caddy motor that looks like it was pulled straight out of the Caddy and stuffed into a Fiero without so much as a good cleaning. Big difference.

Also, I hope BBF plans to do some welding and brace up his newly expanded engine compartment. The cross member that runs along the top of the trunk wall that he cut out to fit his engine is rather important for the rigidity of the chassis. With as much torque as a Caddy 500 has, he's going to twist the frame in no time the way it sits right now.

quote Originally posted by Fastback 86: Cardealer had a giant race motor in his car and the whole thing was built to run quarters. It wasn't a 30+ year old Caddy motor that looks like it was pulled straight out of the Caddy and stuffed into a Fiero without so much as a good cleaning. Big difference. Also, I hope BBF plans to do some welding and brace up his newly expanded engine compartment. The cross member that runs along the top of the trunk wall that he cut out to fit his engine is rather important for the rigidity of the chassis. With as much torque as a Caddy 500 has, he's going to twist the frame in no time the way it sits right now.

You are correct, I made a brace that I didn't like and havent had time to make another.

BBF since your car is complete and running what type of rear springs did you use? Also since your Caddy motor weighs as much as my big chevy what rate springs did you use? When your car is idle does the ride height look correct? Thanks, John

quote Originally posted by John Miller: BBF since your car is complete and running what type of rear springs did you use? Also since your Caddy motor weighs as much as my big chevy what rate springs did you use? When your car is idle does the ride height look correct? Thanks, John

I've edited my first post on this thread several times to add information. Chevy alumina van springs with one coil wind cut off on the rears. ride hight looks stock or just a tad higher. yours may be a tad below stock because a chevy motor is heavier. you could choose to not cut any coils off and be higher than stock. The caddy motor is the lightest big block but has the heaviest intake (because its so wide). there's a 60 lb savings by swaping on an aluminum intake.