quote Originally posted by tuner2m6t: Glad to be of service to you and I am glad everything worked out good for you. Loved the story and always look forward to seeing more of them from you.

Thank you tuner2m6t

What an appropriate opening 4 page 2 (by thread originator)

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 10-05-2007).]

Update:

Finally installed the (CJB) T-Top trunk straps.
I know well, that most of T-Top owners store their glass windows behind the seats, it doesn't work for me.
So, here we go.

A quick coat of fresh "Anti Rust" paint on the brackets



In the original 88 CJB cars the top strap bracket hole is about 1" below the trunk light.
If (like me) you're installing it on an 84-86 car, you'll have to drill just between the trunk light and the plastic blower tube running below it.



If you drill horizontally the drill bit should come out just fine on the other side (no wires or tubes)



I decided to install the bottom bracket 1/2 under the trunk carpet, this way the bottom bolt is hidden under the carpet.
Made a 1" cut in the bottom of the carpet.



Slide in the bracket and drill down through the bracket hole.



Added some anti rust paint to all drilled holes and some silicon for good measure.



I recommend using SS bolts since the lower bolts would be exposed to water (and salt)
once again some rust paint and silicon.



Completed view of the install



For comparison, here is a regular install, where you see the bottom bolts.
(Thanks to 'SwissFormula' for the help with the pictures)



Top strap bolt, I decided to go with a round top for looks. (disregard the broken tab on the trunk light )



Lower bolt (hidden) and bracket



All is well, T-Tops are safely secured in the trunk



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[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 10-05-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Mister:

trying to keep this out of archives?

Well well... It's been almost a year since the T-Top installation and finally I've got myself to making some minor fixes and install the P-Seals.
Long story short - somewhere in the Canadian postal system there is a box with a set of P-seals that someone is going to find someday...Tim from http://www.fieroparts.com was kind to resend a new set for the cost of the shipping only

The install is fairly easy, follow the instructions here: http://www.fierottop.com/waterleak and away you go.

Front P-Seal just sticks to the front trim and then you drill / punch the original rivet / screw holes through the thin aluminum backing and reinstall.


The instructions mention a location to tuck in the leftover edges, I found that folding inwards the 1cm that is left does the job and looks O.K.


Had to do some minor realignment of the B-Pillar - B-Butt Joint, glue and reseal.


Rear P-Seal install is more of the same story


Final look. I think I might have took the instructions too literally and installed the seals 1mm too high but after pressing the silicon strip (inside the seal) down it looks better and fills the gap better. There are still some gap areas that I'll have to figure out.




Overall I'm happy with the result

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T-Top Conversion~Dual HUD~LED Setup~Red Fieros~Montreal Club~Carputer

How did you modify the mustang seal at the b-pillar? Very intersting.

quote Originally posted by extinct: How did you modify the mustang seal at the b-pillar? Very intersting.

My T-Top seals are original Fiero ones, 3.8 SC and Earl-R are the members that did that mod - see link:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-1-062154.html

thank for the info!

Just adding some appropriate photos...
(Posted on other thread)

Wet...



And Sunny...

second time i read this write up, i enjoyed it this time as well I think that if i could have any notchie on the forum it would be yours, everything done to it seems so appropriate

Nice idea by pswayne

quote Originally posted by pswayne: If you have a t-top car, I've come up with a cheap substitue for p-seals that works (the wind noise is less with them). I did an article about it on the Georgia Fiero Club web site, on this page.

quote Originally posted by JesseM: second time i read this write up, i enjoyed it this time as well I think that if i could have any notchie on the forum it would be yours, everything done to it seems so appropriate

Thanks

quote Originally posted by 3.8 SC: Yep, I don't like the prices that people are charging for the gaskets or P-seals. I use the gaskets and P-seals for the 86 Ford Mustang T-tops. I would have to dig up the receipts, but I believe, I paid $180.00 for the two seals and the two gaskets, shipped to my house. C&C made the T-tops for those cars as well. I did have to rework the gasket at the B-pillar. But that was it. The reproduction P-seals for the Mustang, look better than the old Fiero P-seals, to me. They are solid black rubber with a felt like material glued on. I got my Mustang parts from CJ Pony Parts. http://www.cjponyparts.com/

Are you referring to the gasket seals that go around the perimeter of the door and T-Top? Was there ever a write up on how to modify these Mustang gaskets?

[This message has been edited by sjmaye (edited 08-12-2008).]

What year mustang parts did you use?

quote Originally posted by sjmaye: Are you referring to the gasket seals that go around the perimeter of the door and T-Top? Was there ever a write up on how to modify these Mustang gaskets?

There are a bit more details on page 1.

It was done by 3.8 SC and Yes, he is referring to the Weather Seals. he used the 86 Mustang that had C&C T-tops. This is the only thread I know of:

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-1-062154.html

Earl-R used the F-82 Camaro C&C seals, details on the same thread.

[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 08-12-2008).]