your Y-pipe is still loose? you should be able to line it up and then tighten everything down if thats the case, unless it is WAY off. then I suggest fabing some 1/4 thick pieces of steel to bolt into each end, hope this pic shows what I mean im a novice photoshopper
removed pic....

I own page 2!

[This message has been edited by Back On Holiday (edited 07-15-2007).]

no the bolt holes on the flange are almost exactly 90 degrees off of the y pipes but i have an idea that may work, remember the cat you gave me? well the bole holes peice on that rotated... so if i cut the little tab welds on this one, i should be able to rotate it and voila! but seeing as i get home around 10:30pm.. im not sure when i can make lots of noise... perhaps the basement..

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: had to plug up some odd hole..

Did you plug that small hole in the bottom of hte muffler? That hole is a water drain... something you definitely want there. A normal byproduct of combustion is H2O, and until your exhaust gets hot enough to keep it vaporized, you will get a lot of condensation in the exhaust. If it can't drain, it will rot the muffler from the inside.

Hey Jerry, glad to see that things are working out, i've been off-line for a year and have been reading up on whats been goin on.

I wish I could help in some way, but for now all I can offer you is my prayers and well wishes.

Michal

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: no the bolt holes on the flange are almost exactly 90 degrees off of the y pipes but i have an idea that may work, remember the cat you gave me? well the bole holes peice on that rotated... so if i cut the little tab welds on this one, i should be able to rotate it and voila! but seeing as i get home around 10:30pm.. im not sure when i can make lots of noise... perhaps the basement..

excellent! myself, I stalled today because I have to wait for replacement gas tank filler rubber hoses where it connects to the tank. Fierostore to the rescue as no part stores carryed them, or could get them for me today and mine is severly dry rotted

It worked!


Modified this..


its amazing what i wire brush will do..


for now the exhaust is just zip tied up.. just for aligning purposes, and its a perfect fit! awesome.

i started her up for literally a split second, she fired right up nice and strong cant wait to drive her..

New brake lines in


Exhaust ALL connected!


I took some video, and discovered something... NOW IVE GOT A FUEL LEAK!! UGH!! now i need THOSE lines again, for now i may just cut+paste some hose.. good thing it didnt catch fire!! ill have the vid up in 30mins or so..

ok well i attempted to fix the leak tonight, till i realized i had no small clamps... so off to wally world or napa tomorrow...
anyone have a GOOD fuel line laying around? the one without the filter?
tomorrow i work on my 4.5 in school and then when i get home... fix fuel line, bleed brakes, drive. (hopefully....)

Bump for tonights progress

Not bad cept for leakin fuel a little.

Fuel leak fixed.

Before


After



then i bled what i could of the brakes..

then complete and utter disappointment.. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/084455.html

Just a bump for good measure........even though you have so many different posts of this build, I don't know which to bump !!!

BLACK BETTY BAM A LAM!!

Click here to watch She-MOVES-96

Thats what I'm talkin' about.....CONGRATS !!!!!!!!

Make sure you check your trannie's oil level again now that you have it running and fix that left side exhaust tip so it doesn't drag.
Congrats.

She is alive. Now get her to fierorama.

------------------
Fiero Thomas
85 Fiero GT
86 Fiero GT
88 Formula T-Top C+C # 1239 of 1252, Build Digit 26,224 of 26,402
NIFE Member
Fiero News dot net

i have the exhaust up with hangars for now so no more scraping

im going to bring the GT to school tuesday next week so i can work out all the little bugs, change the brake lines etc..

i still have to rev it a bit before itll go into gear... any ideas?

Low fluid? Clogged filter?

------------------
Whade' "The Duck Formerly Known As Wade" Duck
'87 GT Auto
'88 Ferrario
'84 Indy

Just be very gentle with it until you get it figured out. That having to rev it could be causing some clutch slippage and it may be slipping some while in gear. Definitely change the filter if you haven't already and check the fluid daily and see if it smells burnt.

WOOT!

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Just be very gentle with it until you get it figured out. That having to rev it could be causing some clutch slippage and it may be slipping some while in gear. Definitely change the filter if you haven't already and check the fluid daily and see if it smells burnt.

tis a new filter..

Does the Fiero automatic use a TV cable? If so, it has to be properly adjusted for the transmission to shift properly.

i think so, thats the one that goes to the TB right? how do i adjust that

Not sure. I've never had an automatic Fiero. I'll see if I can look it up in my shop manual.
If you have a Haynes or Chiltons manual, they might also have the procedure.
I do know on other cars that the TV cable affects shifting and if it's not hooked up and properly adjusted, it could damage the transmission. Or so I've been told.

I'll see what I can find out if someone doesn't post the info here first.

Here's a couple threads discussing aadjusting the TV cable...

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/079573.html

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/083502.html

Rich

but from what i see, that affects shifting while driving.. it seems like my driving shifting is fine.. it just takes a minute to get INTO gear (im guessing build pressure..)

this is what happens..

i put it in gear and release brake.. nothing

i up it to 2k for about 30 sec's then itll move.. once moving.. its fine from R to D takes a sec.. but once i put it in park.. i have to rev it a bit again to get it to move...


is it possible theres air in the system, and everytime i turn the car on, it compresses the air till it works?

messed with TV cable, no difference.. checked fluid, full.

is it possible not enough fluid in the actual torque converter? air in system?

You might not have enough fluid in the torque converter for it to work properly. I'm guessing you have a bad or sticking valve or modulator. You can read about how the torque converter works here http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

Here are some things that can cause tranny failure from the Wikipedia article on torque converters.

quote Overloading a converter can result in several failure modes, some of them potentially dangerous in nature: Overheating: Continuous high levels of slippage may overwhelm the converter's ability to dissipate heat, resulting in damage to the elastomer seals that retain fluid inside the converter. This will cause the unit to leak and eventually stop functioning due to lack of fluid. Stator clutch seizure: The inner and outer elements of the one-way stator clutch become permanently locked together, thus preventing the stator from rotating during the coupling phase. Most often, seizure is precipitated by severe loading and subsequent distortion of the clutch components. Eventually, galling of the mating parts occurs, which triggers seizure. A converter with a seized stator clutch will exhibit very poor efficiency during the coupling phase, and in a motor vehicle, fuel consumption will drastically increase. Converter overheating under such conditions will usually occur if continued operation is attempted. Stator clutch breakage: A very abrupt application of power can cause shock loading to the stator clutch, resulting in breakage. When this occurs, the stator will freely counter-rotate the pump and almost no power transmission will take place. In an automobile, the effect is similar to a severe case of transmission slippage and the vehicle is all but incapable of moving under its own power. Blade deformation and fragmentation: Due to abrupt loading or excessive heating of the converter, the pump and/or turbine blades may be deformed, separated from their hubs and/or annular rings, or may break up into fragments. At the least, such a failure will result in a significant loss of efficiency, producing symptoms similar (although less pronounced) to those accompanying stator clutch failure. In extreme cases, catastrophic destruction of the converter will occur. Ballooning: Prolonged operation under excessive loading, very abrupt application of load, or operating a torque converter at very high RPM may cause the shape of the converter's housing to be physically distorted due to internal pressure and/or the stress imposed by centrifugal force. Under extreme conditions, ballooning will cause the converter housing to rupture, resulting in the violent dispersal of hot oil and metal fragments over a wide area. Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter"

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 08-02-2007).]

Did the tranny ever come out? If it did you're supposed to pour oil directly into the torque converter (according to my reading and an episode of monster garage) much like putting oil in the oil filter during and oil change.

quote Originally posted by Mr.PBody: Did the tranny ever come out? If it did you're supposed to pour oil directly into the torque converter (according to my reading and an episode of monster garage) much like putting oil in the oil filter during and oil change.

right, i think there was some in there, but i think thats the problem... not enough.. but at least it moves.. now i can get it to school to work on.. ill probably drive it mon or tues and have it ready to go by thurs or fri.. (brake lines, alignment,.. etc as well..)

hey jerry, does this sound like a recent phone call?

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: hey jerry, does this sound like a recent phone call?

yep but at least it moves now

thought id update..

tranny still a bit laggy.. i still have to rev it to get it to move, but it IS driveable!!

so far i have driven it back+forth to work twice, and to school once, where it was then aligned for free!!

i had an overheating problem (as well as a non working temp gauge...) i think the overheating was the fan.. i just gounded it so its always on.. i live in Pittsburgh anyways

temp gauge still does not work.

alt belt was LOUD and squeaky, JUST fixed that.. also got a couple of rattles im about to go out and take care of (lose coolant tube and a heat sheild..) BUT MAN AM I GETTING THERE!!

things to do:
replace fuel filter
replace brakelines + bleeder screws
get new CV boot on it ASAP.
Get an ebrake
sound system
carpet
hood scoop (you know cut a line in the front.. i always liked that one..)

here she is!

For your temp gauge, it may sound stupid, but is it plugged in right? it does plug in both ways. I had to unplug mine cause the unit went bad, and plugged it in backwards, couldn't figure out why the guage didn't work..I felt real smart.

Cars looking good though.

Nice to see her up and about

Check to make sure your radiator fluid is filled and burped. Fill it in the front and in the back and keep checking the back. Try to get as much air out of the system as you can by rocking the car when you fill it or just before to try and get more air pockets out of the system. Make sure you do this when the coolant is "cool."

Got some stuff done today...

new fuel filter


5w-30 Mobil 1 synthetic


Alignment done


engine as it is now


Car at school


the tranny is still not right, so tomorrow begins the 3rd drop.. and other tranny is being put in. thank god for school..

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: engine as it is now

Be careful of the wiring between the battery and the engine. The wiring harness runs close to the water pump pulley and I've had wires get rubbed by the belt or pulley until it cut right through them. My luck it was the Orange ECM power wire - so the car was dead in the water until I figured out what the problem was.

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Be careful of the wiring between the battery and the engine. The wiring harness runs close to the water pump pulley and I've had wires get rubbed by the belt or pulley until it cut right through them. My luck it was the Orange ECM power wire - so the car was dead in the water until I figured out what the problem was.

funny you mention that, i had the 84 die on me a couple weeks ago for that same reason, so i knew to watch out for it on this car

so far, cradle is out, and im picking up a new CV shaft tomorrow

no pix as i left them cam here, but ill snap em off tomorrow i got some homework to do (piston rings and crankshaft bearing stuff..) but tomorrow is mostly Betty dedicated time

O YEA!! one of the other instuctors walked up to me and told me him AND his girlfriend used to own a Fiero.. and it wasnt a bad story!! he said he loved it and was thinking about buying another one because they are so much fun to drive!!

ALSO!! crankshaft+dropping+leg=knot/bruise. i discovered this today.. dropped a 3800 series II n/a crank onto my leg.. a knot built up REAL quick... didnt really hurt though..

[This message has been edited by BobadooFunk (edited 08-09-2007).]