quote Originally posted by ricreatr: full trunk would be nice . . . but that is a big weight shift in the wrong direction.

Do you mean the weight shift of the rads in back or all the junk in the full front trunk? I would also move the battery up front into the redesigned compartment.

quote Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: if you use 6 core wide spaced 3/4 tube rads 15X8 and run them in series it can be done in the side pannels but you would need good ducting to move the air in and out and use 2 high cfm 7 inch fans per rad and a 1 3/4" transfer tube between the rads and daul fan temp sencors for turning the fans on one on the engine and one in the leading rad

airflow is the big issue - I was eyeing up how the guillardo has em setup

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Do you mean the weight shift of the rads in back or all the junk in the full front trunk? I would also move the battery up front into the redesigned compartment.

just moving the battery will counter the loss of the front rad as the rad is 12 lbs and 1/12 gallons of coolant is another 22 lbs and the average battery weighs 45 lbs a fair trade

quote Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: just moving the battery will counter the loss of the front rad ...

Thanks for the comments on my idea...I'm not trying to steal your thread or anything but it's great to hear from the master of Fiero Custom design. What do you have planned for the front compartment on this car?

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Do you mean the weight shift of the rads in back or all the junk in the full front trunk? I would also move the battery up front into the redesigned compartment.

well, that all depends on if your wife finds out that there is a bunch of extra room up there!

(for autocrossing i would like to have batt and rad up front. im even working on moving all the ac equipment up front. ?)

quote Originally posted by ricreatr: well, that all depends on if your wife finds out that there is a bunch of extra room up there! (for autocrossing i would like to have batt and rad up front. im even working on moving all the ac equipment up front. ?)

For autocrossing you'd want the battery and radiators in back to centralize the weight and decrease the car's moment of inertia as much as possible.

quote Originally posted by ricreatr: ...im even working on moving all the ac equipment up front. ?)

The only AC equipment in the back is the compressor, are you planning an electric motor driven compressor?

quote Originally posted by ricreatr: (for autocrossing i would like to have batt and rad up front. im even working on moving all the ac equipment up front. ?)

Real autocrossers need no stinkin' ac.

you might be able to rig the spare tire up to fit ware the rad is now.

------------------
Ezra
88 Fiero 2M4

quote Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: well you are about 40 min. away from me here in Toronto come by any time call me at 647 899 4690 and I will give you directions how to get to my place

well if i do i will do it in better weather (sunny and warm ) and when i get my car on the road... when do you expect yours to be road worthy??
matt

quote Originally posted by Carswell...Wellscar: well if i do i will do it in better weather (sunny and warm ) and when i get my car on the road... when do you expect yours to be road worthy?? matt

once the chassie changes are complete I will reasemble the body and finish the body work and prep it for paint hopefully this summer it will be one the road

quote Originally posted by ezramore: you might be able to rig the spare tire up to fit ware the rad is now.

exactly, leaving a full sized decent trunk up front. This must be what BubbajoeXXX has in mind for his?

quote Originally posted by jscott1: The only AC equipment in the back is the compressor, are you planning an electric motor driven compressor?

yep, i thought later about how little the rad weighs, not such a big deal. and you completely loose the weight of the long tubes.
no REAL autocrosser here. just a daily driver that LOVES to cross when the time comes.

but, bubba's thread is what we all would rather hear (see) about (myself included). thanks again bubba!

Bubba, might you know anywhere to buy the Corvair front hubs? Not having any luck. Thanks

quote Originally posted by VISCERAL: Bubba, might you know anywhere to buy the Corvair front hubs? Not having any luck. Thanks

there is a fella on ebay who sells corvair parts email him from ebay and he will get back to you right away with prices as I did

quote Originally posted by VISCERAL: Bubba, might you know anywhere to buy the Corvair front hubs? Not having any luck. Thanks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=7958771195&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
use the above link and it will take you to the seller of corvair parts and ask him for info on hubs . I bought mine from him

Very nice, heres a new grin for you.
Didnt have anything else just the grin.

like this

Let's be switching those rotors around.

quote Originally posted by Jake_Dragon: Very nice, heres a new grin for you. Didnt have anything else just the grin.

thanks its better than the one I did

quote Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: thanks its better than the one I did

It can be hard getting rid of all the white, but its not as hard as building a super car.
Hey do you think that rear suspension would work on a stock Fiero?

[This message has been edited by Jake_Dragon (edited 03-06-2005).]

Bubba: They are curved vane rotors? You need to switch these side to side. The vanes take air in from the hub area.

[This message has been edited by gusshotrod (edited 03-06-2005).]

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: Bubba: They are curved vane rotors? You need to switch these side to side. The vanes take air in from the hub area.

they where trown on just for the pics thanks

i was reading on a corvette forum (boring by the way) the c6 owners up in arms about all of them having been shafted with all left rotors! come to find out gm cut costs by only making one part - forget the direction! some unhappy payment makers.

Thanks for the info Bubbajoexxx, just got a few questions:

1) the 3 holes in the upright are barely ever so slotted, are they slotted all the way through to the other end, meaning oval holed and retapped outer portion of the hole therefore ending up with a fully tapped oval hole?
2) the bearing you show in your pic had the 3 studs in place, where did you get these? I bought new 4x4 S10 front bearings and they are like the 6000 bearings where you need to bolt them in with bolts going through past the wheel mating surface. If their are differrent I assume they are available at autoparts stores and do the have a nut on the other side?
3) you also show a pic with a portion of the horns cutoff to fit vette brake adapters. I have a copy of a set of your adapters and plan on using 88-96 rear covette calipers on my 6000 hd uprights. I havent had time to check it out personally.

Scratch off # 3, I just saw the pic of the adapters in place, gotta hack them off. Nothing to see here...move along...

Thanks for all your knowledge and support.

quote Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: here is some of the info needed for the rear hub change fig. A: you need to rebore the inside diameter from 3.55 to 3.615 to a depth of 1,085 inches fig. B: the bolts holes need to be moved over .020 inches to bolt the new hub in as you can see in this diagram the hole are only off a small amout \ as I am using the Vette brakes in the rear I need to remove these ears in yellow for the caliper brackets to be installed the diagram for the bearing filler is done and will post it separetly

[This message has been edited by VISCERAL (edited 03-09-2005).]

quote Originally posted by VISCERAL: Thanks for the info Bubbajoexxx, just got a few questions: 1) the 3 holes in the upright are barely ever so slotted, are they slotted all the way through to the other end, meaning oval holed and retapped outer portion of the hole therefore ending up with a fully tapped oval hole? 2) the bearing you show in your pic had the 3 studs in place, where did you get these? I bought new 4x4 S10 front bearings and they are like the 6000 bearings where you need to bolt them in with bolts going through past the wheel mating surface. If their are differrent I assume they are available at autoparts stores and do the have a nut on the other side? 3) you also show a pic with a portion of the horns cutoff to fit vette brake adapters. I have a copy of a set of your adapters and plan on using 88-96 rear covette calipers on my 6000 hd uprights. I havent had time to check it out personally. Scratch off # 3, I just saw the pic of the adapters in place, gotta hack them off. Nothing to see here...move along... Thanks for all your knowledge and support.

1 they are sloted all the way though and are not threaded as the hubs bolt from the rear
2 these studs are for displaying the amount od the slot and not to bolt the hub in
3 ok

But Bubba, shouldnt they mount in the original way, I mean the uprights have threads, the hubs have threads, the hubs go into the bore and you spin the wheel stud flange until the open hole in the flange gives you access to pass the bolt through the seating flange of the hub(which have threads) through the 3 upright holes that now have been slotted and have no threads.
You say they bolt from the back now but in your old install pics they all show them as installed in the factory position from the outside of the wheel going towards the center of the car. I havent seen any pics showing that you have passed the bolt from inside the upright going outwards towards the wheel. I am just going by looking at the pic quoted "Upright and bearing" on http://www.fortunecity.com/skyscraper/switch/67/id205.htm .
But slotting the holes would wipe out the upright threads that hold the hub securely on? Am I looking at the wrong pictures?

Sorry if I am being difficult, I'm just trying to follow your lead. Help!!!!!! I just wanna drop these off at my machinist.

Another problem I have is I have bearings like this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category= 33729&item=7942489375&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

how does one pass the torx bolt thru? I'll have to open a hole to a U shape I guess. Or do you take the inner portion of the upright and remove material so all 3 holes are the same thickness?

[This message has been edited by VISCERAL (edited 03-09-2005).]

quote Originally posted by VISCERAL: But Bubba, shouldnt they mount in the original way, I mean the uprights have threads, the hubs have threads, the hubs go into the bore and you spin the wheel stud flange until the open hole in the flange gives you access to pass the bolt through the seating flange of the hub(which have threads) through the 3 upright holes that now have been slotted and have no threads. You say they bolt from the back now but in your old install pics they all show them as installed in the factory position from the outside of the wheel going towards the center of the car. I havent seen any pics showing that you have passed the bolt from inside the upright going outwards towards the wheel. I am just going by looking at the pic quoted "Upright and bearing" on http://www.fortunecity.com/skyscraper/switch/67/id205.htm . But slotting the holes would wipe out the upright threads that hold the hub securely on? Am I looking at the wrong pictures? Sorry if I am being difficult, I'm just trying to follow your lead. Help!!!!!! I just wanna drop these off at my machinist. Another problem I have is I have bearings like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category= 33729&item=7942489375&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V how does one pass the torx bolt thru? I'll have to open a hole to a U shape I guess. Or do you take the inner portion of the upright and remove material so all 3 holes are the same thickness?

I bolt them from the rear as it does not weaken the hub slotting the hubs and removing the thread takes off to much material rear bolting maintains the strength of the hub and does not harm the upright as only a small amout is removed to rear bolt them
as for bolts I alwas use new bolts and use one longer bolt for the bottom hole as 12mm bolts are cheep only 1.05 each
the hubs you bought are generic replacements and will work fine

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 03-10-2005).]

been sike with the flue for the past week and hope to get back to work monday on the rear of the car will have lots of pics if it works out what I have planned

hope you feel better soon!

quote Originally posted by ricreatr: hope you feel better soon!

Thanks I hope so soon have lots to do and want to get right side done and all cleaned up so I can por15 the rear chassie

got outside today and filled in the spaces on the new stucture with 16 gauge 3/4 perforated steel


this material will renforce the tubbing and stiffen the chassie

also removed the battery box and the cross bracing so I can start on the right side tomorrow

Coooooooooooooool!