It sounds like you got 'flexplate bolts' instead of 'flywheel bolts' for the auto vs stick. I think I have seen them in the "help" section at autoparts stores.
edit:should be m10x1x23 but it has to be a HARD bolt like 11.?
Actually, the bolts that I got were for the 2.8 flywheel. Apparently the are not the same thread size although the right length. I hope to resolve this issue quickly.
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07:48 PM
Jun 5th, 2007
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
Actually, the bolts that I got were for the 2.8 flywheel. Apparently the are not the same thread size although the right length. I hope to resolve this issue quickly.
They are the same. Make sure your holes in the crank are cleaned out very well. Check the bolts for burs and the holes too. Don't forget the loc-tite.
A little update, with another modification on my 3.4 motor build.
I trimmed the tube off the timing mark bracket, (no clue what that tube is for, but heard it had to do with a factory timing device), anyway, the new timing mark is much cleaner and I think it loos pretty good with the fake gold anodize finish
You can also see that the trimming of the front motor mount worked very well and avoided denting in the oil pan.
(That's a power pulley and a Rodney Dickman idler pulley on there too)
I managed to destroy the transmission dipstick and tube while installing the cradle in the car. Should have known better, and removed it beforehand, but, oh-well...I'm shopping for a new tube and dipstick now
One last view before installation into the car. We added a bunch more brackets and hung the harness on the engine, but I removed the intake manifolds and valve covers to prevent scratching them. I'd rather go thru the trouble doing them in the car than risk damaging them.
In this view you can see the cold start injector has been deleted and the port in the lower manifold plugged with a 7/8" freeze plug. The throttle body coolant lines are also deleted and the ports on the throttle body are plugged with 7/16-20 X .75 bolts. The fuel rail I used is identical to the stock Fiero rail, but has no fuel fitting for the CSI. removing all this junk really cleaned up the engine a lot. You can also see the *smooth* upper intake manifold with the cast parting lines removed and the mounting lug for the TB coolant lines ground off as well
[This message has been edited by randye (edited 06-11-2007).]
I managed to destroy the transmission dipstick and tube while installing the cradle in the car. Should have known better, and removed it beforehand, but, oh-well...I'm shopping for a new tube and dipstick now
Damn randye, that motor looks awsome!
I did the exact same thing when installing my 3800SC motor. Wasn't paying attention and broke off the top of the dipstick and moved the tube far enough to rip a hole in it where the bracket is. I had to buy a new dipstick and filler tupe from the local Pontiac dealer.
Once your motor is in and running I would like to arrange a time to come check it out if thats OK?
------------------ My best advice when it comes to your Fiero is to "NOT" do any dealings with www.kitcarman.com
VIAGRA - Strong enough for a man but made for a woman
I did the exact same thing when installing my 3800SC motor. Wasn't paying attention and broke off the top of the dipstick and moved the tube far enough to rip a hole in it where the bracket is. I had to buy a new dipstick and filler tupe from the local Pontiac dealer.
Once your motor is in and running I would like to arrange a time to come check it out if thats OK?
Thanks Jimmy I've been working hard on this car for a long time now. I do tend to work slow, but it's all finally starting to come together now.
It's actually become something more than an obsession. I've spent hours cleaning and polishing old bolts and nuts, and have replaced probably a couple hundred dollars worth of fasteners where I wanted them to "show" nicely. I also like the look of the stock Fiero 2.8 motor, but for my 3.4 I decided to just give the stock look a little "twist" to show that it's something different Cast silver block and red timing cover instead of the stock black block and cover, and the red oil pan, (which nobody really ever sees), and the cast silver thermostat housing, instead of the stock black. The cradle is in now, (BIG thanks to my buddy Shawnkfl), and the colors really brighten up the engine bay!
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10:37 PM
shawnkfl Member
Posts: 2457 From: Largo, Florida Registered: Oct 2004
that's exactly why i was looking for a 84 duke. i wanted to take my time and make it look better than new, then swap it in my 84 one day. i can't seem to get one so it looks like it will get a 2.8 upgrade. funny. 2.8's seem to be easier to find than a 2.4....i'll be up saturday randy to grab the block and lend a hand if needed. maybe it won't be so hot! it was another great day there. nobody got hurt and the only thing that got messed up was the tube and dipstick. note to self....lighten up on tightening bolts....i had no idea i tighten bolts up so much! to me they feel snug but good god! taking them back out is a pain!
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11:12 PM
Jun 19th, 2007
alex de jorge Member
Posts: 501 From: Kissimmee, FL Registered: Nov 2005
Ok, here is my update. I finally got the lower and middle intake on. I also got the fuel rail, injectors and valve covers installed. The exhaust manifolds are also installed and looking great. I got some of the sensors on. I am working on the timing belt cover and water pump. I hope to have those installed in a couple of days. We'll see what happens. How's everyone else coming along?
Mine is back in the car and I'm finishing up lots of details...like re-wraping wiring harness, and I got sort of sidetracked rebuilding all the rear suspension
Business travel to Utah, and the birth of my granddaughter have also sidetracked my time on the car lately. Should be able to wrap it all up this next weekend hopefully.
I am waiting on pistons to get here for mine (2 weeks) other than that I am starting another 3.4 swap this week. Swaping in 3.4s has become second nature to me lately.
I am waiting on pistons to get here for mine (2 weeks) other than that I am starting another 3.4 swap this week. Swaping in 3.4s has become second nature to me lately.
Yeah...what's the deal with getting pistons and rings for 3.4's?? I had a hell of a time getting stock, (non-oversize), rings for my rebuild, and I looked briefly into getting new pistons and they were special order too! Overbore rings and pistons were only slightly easier to come by. All the rest of the engine parts were easy to get, same day or next day. Maybe it's just around here.....
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09:01 AM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
Rings were not too hard to find $86 is a little high for rings but not as $$$ as my pistons were. The company who are making my pistons screwed up and didn't process the order right so it has been about 4 weeks and now another 2. Not too many places have many 3.4L parts on the self, only V8 stuff. I have everything now just waiting on pistons. I will be doing another 3.4l swap while I wait and helping finish up another one too.
Well I finally finished up my 3.4 swap! It started right up on the first turn of the key. Both lower coolant hoses leaking a small amount so new hoses to be installed this week, then timing and tune and a rear end alignment and it's back on the road...FINALLY!
Yes, I did the "Happy Dance"
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10:11 PM
Jul 9th, 2007
topher_time Member
Posts: 3231 From: Bailey's Harbor, for now. Registered: Sep 2005
Well we finsihed another 3.4L swap. Pics will be coming soon. And pulled out another engine that is getting a 3.4L. So from one, straight into another. It was a busy night. I will have pics from the last couple of swaps to post soon. And some of this one.
Just out of curiosity, who all has done a 3.4L swap based off of this thread?
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 07-23-2007).]
I used some of the back ground information from the early pages for my swap.
Was wondering on the old cam that the lobes where worn. Mine was the same way and was the cyl. 5 and 6 lobes. Basically completely round. Just wondered what you saw on your engines?
As someone suggested, I would now have liked to go with a lighter color for the block. Would make knowing if you had an oil leak much easier to find.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 07-23-2007).]
Was wondering on the old cam that the lobes where worn. Mine was the same way and was the cyl. 5 and 6 lobes. Basically completely round. Just wondered what you saw on your engines?
As someone suggested, I would now have liked to go with a lighter color for the block. Would make knowing if you had an oil leak much easier to find.
The cam I pulled out my 130k mile engine had obvious wear and scoring on the bearing journals and had "shoulder" wear, (uneven lifter contact), on several of the lobes. Seems to me that I noticed the most wear around the middle of the camshaft, (cylinders 3 and 4), no round lobes though.
Spotting any future oil leaks is precisely why I painted my block and heads high temp silver. The silver engine paint turns a little brownish right at the exhaust ports / gasktes on the heads pretty fast, but so far, (after a few hours run time), the rest of the engine paint looks great. No exhaust leaks, so it's just the localized heat on the heads.. The other advantage of the silver painted block and heads is that it reflects light really well and makes working under the car or down in tight spaces with a work light easier.....just something I noticed after I installed the motor....
Was wondering on the old cam that the lobes where worn. Mine was the same way and was the cyl. 5 and 6 lobes. Basically completely round. Just wondered what you saw on your engines?
As someone suggested, I would now have liked to go with a lighter color for the block. Would make knowing if you had an oil leak much easier to find.
The cam I pulled out my 130k mile engine had obvious wear and scoring on the bearing journals and had "shoulder" wear, (uneven lifter contact), on several of the lobes. Seems to me that I noticed the most wear around the middle of the camshaft, (cylinders 3 and 4), no round lobes though.
Spotting any future oil leaks is precisely why I painted my block and heads high temp silver. The silver engine paint turns a little brownish right at the exhaust ports / gasktes on the heads pretty fast, but so far, (after a few hours run time), the rest of the engine paint looks great. No exhaust leaks, so it's just the localized heat on the heads.. The other advantage of the silver painted block and heads is that it reflects light really well and makes working under the car or down in tight spaces with a work light easier.....just something I noticed after I installed the motor....
do you have to install a different flywheel for an automatic or just use the neutral from the '88? I decided not to install it on my manual but in the automatic.
do you have to install a different flywheel for an automatic or just use the neutral from the '88? I decided not to install it on my manual but in the automatic.
thanks
You should use the 88 flexplate, (Neutral balance) I did.
[This message has been edited by randye (edited 07-23-2007).]
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07:11 PM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
do you have to install a different flywheel for an automatic or just use the neutral from the '88? I decided not to install it on my manual but in the automatic.
thanks
the manuals use a flywheel, the autos use a flexplate. Either has to be from a 88.
Was wondering on the old cam that the lobes where worn. Mine was the same way and was the cyl. 5 and 6 lobes. Basically completely round. Just wondered what you saw on your engines?
I have not noticed much wear on the cams. But the engines we have used have only 50,000ish miles on them
I used some of the back ground information from the early pages for my swap.
Was wondering on the old cam that the lobes where worn. Mine was the same way and was the cyl. 5 and 6 lobes. Basically completely round. Just wondered what you saw on your engines?
As someone suggested, I would now have liked to go with a lighter color for the block. Would make knowing if you had an oil leak much easier to find.
I had my 3.4 painted silver. It looks like an aluminum engine. I did the right choice. I would do it again. Thanks to this thread I was able to get my 3.4 project done last year.
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02:32 AM
Jul 26th, 2007
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
The tutorial is amazing. I registered on this site just for it. Now, I just bought a 85 Fiero GT from a friend of mine with the 3.4 swap already complete. The car has been sitting for 2 years so on my way home The waterpump and alternator belts broke. Should I just replace those and be on my merry way or should pull the engine out and hope I can put it back together in the end?
I am about to start adding onto the thread with more crappy pictures!
Engine bay as of now. It is an actual working 3.4 swap. Made it home.
Notice the missing belt. When I got home and opened the trunk. Steam exploded in my face.
The water pump is pretty rusty. Should i worry about replacing it? Also the thermostat housing is leaking. I was told by the owner that I would need a new one. Should I look for a fiero 2.8 one or a 3.4 camaro one?
[This message has been edited by Waerloga (edited 07-28-2007).]
There were 2 bent pipes attached to the trunk heatshield. Looks like the served no purpose as there was nothing connected to them. Is it safe to remove those?
It also looks like your car had cruise control at one time, but all the equipment on the trunk side, (rear), firewall has been taken out. Might explain the 2 lines you're talking about with nothing attached to them.
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10:25 PM
Richjk21 Member
Posts: 2228 From: Central Square NY, USA Registered: Feb 2006
There were 2 bent pipes attached to the trunk heatshield. Looks like the served no purpose as there was nothing connected to them. Is it safe to remove those?
Your probably talking about the pipes for the engine compartment blower, they supply air to the coil and alternator, the blower motor is behind the trunk carpeting, it comes on whenever the radiator fan comes on.
Just put a belt on it to start. All you have to do is loosen the alternater and put the belt on, then tighten the alternator. Grab the water pump pulley and check for play, also see if it wobbles at speed. after it is running see if it leaks at all. Go from there
Any one else? I assume less than 80 as my feedback is only at 80.
If you count PIP (Projects In Progress), you can add two; one 88 GT that will use a nearly stock 3.4; and an 87 coupe that will use a carb'd 3.4 that will be built close to ORIEF's specs.
------------------ FierOmar
[This message has been edited by FierOmar (edited 07-29-2007).]
