Originally posted by madcurl: New pics of the final rear view mock-up in a few minutes and the Lotus wiper is now seated lower.
Final mock-up;
The newly style IMO is a serious look and flow w/o too much fluff. The upper corner remains the same whereas the lower corner has a slight curve.
The C6 side maker will be "Frenched" in.
You'll notice that the lower line is now straight w/o the "bearded" flow (I don't know but the old style reminded me of a mans beard going around the chin).
The Crew will have to go back in a cut-out part of the old vent area to make a shelf and for placement of the vent screen. Enjoy.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-11-2008).]
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06:27 PM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
The slightly slanted rear vent follows the slant vent behind the front tire and if you can imagine; the rear slant is similar to the main side rocker vent.
As you can determine, the main rocker too is slightly wider at bottom vs. the top portion of the vent; so too is the rear bumper vent (bigger at bottom and thinner at top).
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-11-2008).]
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06:56 PM
DeLorean00 Member
Posts: 4251 From: Sacramento, CA / Reno, NV Registered: Aug 2005
Edit: I just got off the phone with Archie and the we reviewed the Lotus wiper motor placement and it looks good. Its not 100% perfect, but it will have to do for a 25 yr old car, hehe. Pics and explanation in a few.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-12-2008).]
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12:24 PM
Fiero Thomas Member
Posts: 4669 From: Round Lake Beach, IL Registered: Jul 2005
Okay, here are a few Lotus wiper pics demonstrating the "sweep" using the Eclipse window.
As you can see, the "sweep" isn't 100% coverage, but its the best we can do w/o GM designing it, hehe. My main goal is to make it look Fiero OEM. Granted, two blade wiper system may have worked, but I feel in love with the Lotus's simplicity; besides the Lotus system contains the bracket, washer and motor housed in a small complete unit.
The lateral tapes viewed on the windshield is the maxuim "sweepage" during its operation.
The Lotus system according to Archie is entirely different in that it operates in one direction and stops; then operates in the opposite direction compared to other wiper systems that have continuous rotation during operation. Enjoy the pics, more to come later today.
(Expiditing of picture postings provided by Fiero Thomas )
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-12-2008).]
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02:42 PM
AutoTech Member
Posts: 2385 From: St. Charles, Illinois Registered: Aug 2004
I say just get rid of the damn wipers period, throw some Rain-X on there an call it a day. Wipers are ugly, and you dont plan on driving this in heavy thunderstorms anyhow.
I say just get rid of the damn wipers period, throw some Rain-X on there an call it a day. Wipers are ugly, and you dont plan on driving this in heavy thunderstorms anyhow.
RainX works great, I use it on all of my cars. You just have to be going at a fairly decent speed for it to fully effective in the rain, so you will still need your wipers. Oh, wait, that thing has a Northstar in the back, nevermind.
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04:37 PM
PFF
System Bot
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
I say just get rid of the damn wipers period, throw some Rain-X on there an call it a day. Wipers are ugly, and you dont plan on driving this in heavy thunderstorms anyhow.
You can't pass CA's strict codes w/o the wipers and you must have them in operation during a rain along with the headlamps too; otherwise I usually place the wipers in the trunk until I need them. I agree, the Rain-X will help.
Madcurl, maybe it was posted somewhere in here, but what color is it going to be when its done?
No problem. The color was noticed by Steven (4.9) which is a deep burgundy peal w/the lower edges being black. This IMo should give the car a factory OEM flow and thus avoiding the Ferrari colors. Besides, the original color is burgundy.
up close & personal; The Squirter.
I haven't received the Squirter nor the wiring harness from the Lotus place; they're jacking me around Anyway, the squirter location is to the right of the wiper arm; here are a few close-ups. Enjoy
(wiper is crooked but will be placed in a straight fashion).
Cut-outs have been made and soon; bracket to hold the wiper unit will follow. As of now, Kris is making a fiberglass shelf or roof over the current heater box. Once that is performed, the mounting of the wiper system will take place.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-12-2008).]
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05:34 PM
Archie Member
Posts: 9436 From: Las Vegas, NV Registered: Dec 1999
My scoop V-shape pipe dream was quickly aborted No need to go there, hehe. We're sticking to original plan. Kris is now "tearing the roof of the sucka." Pics to follow.
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06:00 PM
Archie Member
Posts: 9436 From: Las Vegas, NV Registered: Dec 1999
I thought you might like to see some detail of how the wiper system is installed.
To get the wiper assembly mounted down far enough, we had to cut a little bit of material out of the top of the heater box. The arrow shows you where the CAI is for the incoming air to feed the blower. The arms that operate the wiper are on the bottom of the assembly, so we needed clearance for them to move.
Kris made a tray that will go into the gap & be spot welded & siliconed to the top of the heater box.
Here it is set into place, the arrow shows the air intake is still functional.
Here are the mounting brackets for the assembly. the arrows indicate a couple of walls built to keep water from dripping into the CAI.
Here it is bolted in. We still have a little sheet metal to weld in to finish it up but now it's on to the hood, finally.
Archie
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08:35 PM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Okay, here are a few Lotus wiper pics demonstrating the "sweep" using the Eclipse window.
As you can see, the "sweep" isn't 100% coverage, but its the best we can do w/o GM designing it, hehe. My main goal is to make it look Fiero OEM. Granted, two blade wiper system may have worked, but I feel in love with the Lotus's simplicity; besides the Lotus system contains the bracket, washer and motor housed in a small complete unit.
The lateral tapes viewed on the windshield is the maxuim "sweepage" during its operation.
Is the arm just gonna stop and sit there when it is off? Looks like it is going to be visible all the time, and right in the passengers line of sight.
[This message has been edited by Will-Martin (edited 06-13-2008).]
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06:13 AM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Is the arm just gonna stop and sit there when it is off? Looks like it is going to be visible all the time, and right in the passengers line of sight.
Yes. Not much better than the Lotus Elise situation, however I usually remove all wipers and place them inside the trunk. In the case of #020, I can't see it being driven in the rain too often so the single wiper will be placed in the trunk.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-13-2008).]
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12:17 PM
PFF
System Bot
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
The Crew (Kris) laid-up some fiberglass that will meet-up and around the Lotus wiper system. This area I call the "V" ( center area inside the "V") will be cut and elevate to match the current scoop sides that lead up to the window. Once that cures, the next step is too cut and elevate that outer sides to match.
While we wait for fiberglass to cure, here are a few old pics.
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02:46 PM
fourpoint9 Member
Posts: 1058 From: Long Beach, WA, USA Registered: Feb 2004
Are we going to get to see it at the 25th? (did I ask that before?)
Thanks my friend. I take all encouragement seriously. This freaking build has me up late at night and has permeated into every fabric of my life for the last 3-yrs (Nov 2008). This morning while jogging 2-mile on the treadmill @ 6.5 mph, I had two pictures of #020 in front me; going over the details. If I may use a quote from Mr. Spoke, "The needs of the many, out weigh the needs of the few." Although only a few have benefited from the Mad-Arch copies; #020 has taken it toll and I'll be glad when its painted and done.
As for the 25th, I hope #020 will be there. However, #020 hasn't been on the road since Nov 2005 and I need to make sure its street ready; trailing would cost way too much at today’s gas prices and I am not paying. I'm flying out (I hope) on the 23rd to change the oil/filter, replace old rubber cap/hose that I hate (piece of crap) and fuel filter. There is something rubbing from what Archie mentioned during the Dells 2007, so that too needs checking.
Crappy D1S rubber cap! Why, Why, Why!!!
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:
Springing a leak; the crappy nipples are not made of the same grade as regular radiator hose, therefor every year or so, I need to replace this crap with another nipple cap. However, I had enough of this crap by buying a splice kit and bypass this problem.
It's been three years and I finally got around to removing this problem. I need to do the same to #020. For the life of me, I hate Kevin's poor excuse for using this crap!
Both sides are completed.
I still need an inner wheel guard for the front to prevent rocks and debris from breaking my C6 lamps. Norm is now making some type of liner, but I haven't seen that yet, so I might go with the idea Archie and I came up with. That doesn't include the needed modifications to the front side vents, hood electrical actualators, and interior consol mods. Granted, if I stop adding additional tweaks- I'd be finished by now!
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-15-2008).]
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12:56 PM
R Runner Member
Posts: 3696 From: Scottsville, KY Registered: Feb 2003
I see a project like this and can't help but compare it to my own. I completely understand about the "every part of your life" thing. It is physically and mentally exhausting. Frankly I will be glad to get done with my car for the 25th. The last 6 months have worn me out.
Hang in there. As you know... it will be complete sooner or later.
And might I add that your project looks fantastic. Keep up the good work. IF I get caught up in the show and don't happen to find you first, feel free to walk up and introduce yourself. It would be a pleasure to meet you.
Paul
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03:20 PM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Okay, here's the "Good, the Bad, and the Ugly" regarding Norm's C6 flipper modifications.
The Good. The Crew (Kris) laid a new layer of fiberglass (5-layers thick ) inside the "V" to meet-up with the Lotus system and Eclipse windshield. The reason for the new piece was due to the original area cracking which was expected since the area needed a bit of curvature; thus a new layer was made. Right now, the hood is starting to take shape with the sides vents meeting up with the new layer of fiberglass and towards the Eclipse windshield. As you can see, the "V" appears in the picks and later the shaving of the end pieces and outer sides will also be raised to meet the new fiberglass ramp. Granted, you must use your imagination.
The Bad; The new layer will be reinforced using metal underneath to support the entire weight of the C6 flipper while the electrical actualators are being used. For those who are unaware the C6 flipper isn't a 100% stiff system, but it flexes as your raising the front end. It is sometimes better to use two people while raising the hood, granted it flexes, but doesn't break. Others like Jake Dragon has devised a system using part of the underbelly support from the OEM Fiero hood graphed onto Norm’s flipper for support and less flexation.
The Ugly; With the additional pieces being added to #020, should strengthens the entire upper portion using a metal brace underneath and glassed over in fiberglass. The hood scoop along with additional fiberglass build-up should aid in the over-all strength during opening and closing operations, but this faze of operation will come later once the over style is laid for the hood.
Edit: I can't spell.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-15-2008).]
The stock reinforcement did stiffen up the top part of the hood a lot. But its still pretty flexible in the front of the car, lots of side to side movement. I have also been thinking about how to add some struts to the front of the car and getting rid of the stock mechanical strut. Looking forward to how you tackle this. I have been thinking of attaching part of the stock shock absorber that is under the stock front bumper. I have several here to play with so who knows what I will come up with. We could always use some rope and build some reinforcement like Blacktree did.
Hey Curly---The D1S rubber cap looks somewhat familiar. Is that when we became "brothers"?
Yeah, you bleed all over my car; so that makes us brothers, hehe. Seriously, that was the radiator down-pipe that disconnected itself. I had a good time at D5 dispite the issues with #015.
Okay, moving right along while we're watching paint dry, hehe.
Some good info here dispite what it seems to appear. As you can see, the area inside the scoop is starting to take shape with the layer of new fiberglass being laid, elevated, curved, and glassed onto the C6 flipper. The goal is to follow the Eclispe windshield lower conture or black line in the center and later on the other sides (lt & rt) around the glass. The other edges of the scoop will no doubt be trimmed down to match the newly formed fiberglass. The "V" shape is viewed as well.
The center area is now made stronger with additional fiberglass and metal to be applied later.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-15-2008).]
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08:25 PM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
I have been thinking of attaching part of the stock shock absorber that is under the stock front bumper. I have several here to play with so who knows what I will come up with. We could always use some rope and build some reinforcement like Blacktree did.
I did too, but due to the material involved and force needed to raise the hood, IMO I think it might be too much stress for the area to handle. IMO it might be best mount the electrical strut futher up the hood near the vent which isn't too far from the actual mechanical hood attachment. Besides, I'd like the actulators on the inside near the radiator incase there should be a mechanical failure I could raise the front end and disconnect since the stock hood latch is now removed. However, this a pipe dream right now until the Crew tackles this issue, but like always I thank you for your input.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-15-2008).]
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08:59 PM
Jun 16th, 2008
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Okay, back to work! Kris (The Crew) is performing an excellent job on the hood using the temporary bridge supports for holding in place the center piece. Today, he'll continue working in this area along with the left and right sides of the vent with additional pics later this evening. Here are few left over’s demonstrating the process.
I find it strange that the PISA hood tips came in handy for reference points used for the center piece. This build amazes even me.
From the archives 3/18/2007; it was a "concept" back then and now its becoming a reality.
quote
Originally posted by madcurl: Although the C6 flipper has "evolved" from it's original concept over the past year, the cut-out upper scoop-tips and central wiper blade are a "bonus" blessing that wasn't noticed in the begining. Several people here have aided in tweaking the crap out of this mod. This isn't a "one-man-show" it's a group project. Positive and negetive construction is always welcome.
Thank you.
madcurl
Projected style (thus so far, hehe).
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-16-2008).]
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12:04 PM
Jun 17th, 2008
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Okay, we've come full circle and back to the important part of the build; Norm's C6 flipper! Currently, I'm reviewing pics, trying to decide exactly where the cut-off point should start regarding the "V"- vent flaring and just how much should be removed.
Several options.
1. Gradually shave down the sides from the scoop leading to the "flare" which by-the-way is where the wiper bolt sticks-up. 2. Shave down the sides leading from the scoop a few inches before the "flare." 3. Shave down the sides a few inches pass the "flare" point.
Support bridges removed for better visuals. Notice the point were the wiper bolt sticks-up.
You'll need to use your imagination here, but on the inside of the "V" angled fiberglass will line the inner wall, slopped toward the end where the flare starts, before or a bit after.
A birds eye view;
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-17-2008).]
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12:20 PM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Playing it safe, using the green tape should give me a better idea of where the cut should begin. If you've notice, these pics demonstrates the scoop's leading inside edge. Its this extra piece of fiberglas that needs removal, thus allowing the edge to gradually smooth out towards the windshield; starting at the flare point or at the wiper bolt level.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-17-2008).]
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01:39 PM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Done. Hey Archie, expect the actuators around Friday (three day-UPS). The controller is on back order and should arrive the 25th of June. However, no need to wait around for it; you can get started on the mounting and location of the actuators.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-17-2008).]