PAGE 3 IS MINE!!!

Hey everyone... at the moment i havent done very much...

I decided to go with OBD I for a few reasons... not that you have to but the computer is close and since it is a 94-95 Regal it still uses OBD II harnesses (at least if i understood Darth correctly) and IS weather proof too.

Also i have read allot of things about deleting the Boost Bypass... if it works the same way that i believe it does then i think that could be a bad idea!! I need to make a write up about that but ill have to get some pictures and graphs together for everyone to understand. If i had my car done i could prove my theory with a dyno... but basically i believe you will get more SNAP off the line at low RPM with the Bypass still connected, plus its less hard on the charger. Explain all later...

This thread WILL explode at the end of the month though cause thats when i have my week long shut down at work (last weekend in July through first week fo Aug.) So thats when im gonna TRY to finish this puppy off.... it will be a PICTURE FEST!!!

ALSO i do need some help too....

I am having trouble with belt routing... I do NOT have a AC compressor and am not exactly sure what to do about this problem... The picture i posted above with the alternator in the AC's position would be great but i cant find any info about it... 3.8 SC was the one who showed me... maybe he has some info about it?? Otherwise i may have to get an AC pump somewhere even if i dont hook it up now... Anyone know if the Fiero's fits there??

[This message has been edited by The Fieromaster (edited 07-22-2005).]

so this will change it from multipoint injection ( 1 of few top reasons for going with a Series II ) to a meager batch fire system like the 2.8 / 3.1 / 3.4?

If you go back to my eng pic you will notice that I have reversed the waterpump pulley. By doing this I am able to put everything BUT the alt on one belt on the outer grooves of the crank.
The alt is own its own on the back grooves.
i made my own alt bracket, you might try the same. The other one that is shown is bolted to the block. I did it that way and the bolt broke off in the block. that is why i went with a bracket.

Posting up some stuff for you guys that I did tonight... Finally got my flanges in from WCF so I started making my exhaust. Got a little bored and took out the dremel and did a couple of things...

First, on the trans, the clutch fork wouldn't go down all the way. I felt like this would interfere somehow, so I took a little material off to allow the fork to recess all the way back... before and after pics...

Then on the exhaust, first the flange didn't have room to allow the spark plug to be removed with a wrench, so I had to cut some material off. Did this using a chop saw and a 1/2" angle grinder.

In this pic, I highlighted for you guys how the castign chokes the exhaust. Now this is prob the most efficient for the stock cast manifold that was on there, but I wanted to smoothen it out a bit.

This was halfway through. The one on the left is for the most part done. (I'm considering getting a little more aggressive with it) The object isn't necessarily to remove the most material, but create a smooth, conform surface for the exhaust gasses. (basically, so they don't have drag)

More pics to come from me...

[This message has been edited by RandomTask (edited 07-23-2005).]

So they sent you flanges that didnt have ANY cut outs for spark plugs? It was just a rectangle piece of steel? Did the offer it to be shaped for plugs?? I cant believe they would sell it as just a rectangle??

quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: PAGE 3 IS MINE!!! Hey everyone... at the moment i havent done very much... I decided to go with OBD I for a few reasons... not that you have to but the computer is close and since it is a 94-95 Regal it still uses OBD II harnesses (at least if i understood Darth correctly) and IS weather proof too. Also i have read allot of things about deleting the Boost Bypass... if it works the same way that i believe it does then i think that could be a bad idea!! I need to make a write up about that but ill have to get some pictures and graphs together for everyone to understand. If i had my car done i could prove my theory with a dyno... but basically i believe you will get more SNAP off the line at low RPM with the Bypass still connected, plus its less hard on the charger. Explain all later... This thread WILL explode at the end of the month though cause thats when i have my week long shut down at work (last weekend in July through first week fo Aug.) So thats when im gonna TRY to finish this puppy off.... it will be a PICTURE FEST!!! ALSO i do need some help too.... I am having trouble with belt routing... I do NOT have a AC compressor and am not exactly sure what to do about this problem... The picture i posted above with the alternator in the AC's position would be great but i cant find any info about it... 3.8 SC was the one who showed me... maybe he has some info about it?? Otherwise i may have to get an AC pump somewhere even if i dont hook it up now... Anyone know if the Fiero's fits there??

hey does that mean illl have the shut down to or no since i ll be training

Why did you buy flanges? I made my own with a band saw and a drill press. I think my whole exhaust system cost $400.00, including the muffler. If you look in the lower right, you can see, I have one header finished. I ordered it all from Summit.

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https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/052322.html#lastpost
My rear defuser

quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: So they sent you flanges that didnt have ANY cut outs for spark plugs? It was just a rectangle piece of steel? Did the offer it to be shaped for plugs?? I cant believe they would sell it as just a rectangle??

It did have cut outs, just not for the back plug. You also had to cut off an extra piece meant to attach the evap. (the made the same flange for both sides.)

400$$ good lord... lol. For now i want to go with something similar to Darth Fiero's exhuast that uses the stock manifolds and has curve right to muffler... Im NOT cutting my trunk out.. thats crazy... i love that thing lol Just need something simple to work till winter then ill go with headers when i tear it all down. My stock exhaust is deffinetly free flowing since all the baffles blew out when i was having that backfire problem from a bad ignition prollem.... loud now..

Mike... i have no idea... i doubt you will be working, BUT if you want to you can ask Oliver to put you to work somewhere.

quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: 400$$ good lord... lol. For now i want to go with something similar to Darth Fiero's exhuast that uses the stock manifolds and has curve right to muffler... Im NOT cutting my trunk out.. thats crazy... i love that thing lol Just need something simple to work till winter then ill go with headers when i tear it all down. My stock exhaust is deffinetly free flowing since all the baffles blew out when i was having that backfire problem from a bad ignition prollem.... loud now.. Mike... i have no idea... i doubt you will be working, BUT if you want to you can ask Oliver to put you to work somewhere.

or i then have time to help you finish fast car hehehe

True.. dont voulenteer! LOL... I think James is coming down like on Wednesday?? Not sure... you have to badger him to come down on AOL. We will deffinetly have some fun, but i got to drag you away from the wife...

quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: True.. dont voulenteer! LOL... I think James is coming down like on Wednesday?? Not sure... you have to badger him to come down on AOL. We will deffinetly have some fun, but i got to drag you away from the wife...

hell make her andd your wife cook us all food and bring us tools and drinks and what not lol

and no-one comes to VA to help

I wanted to just go with West Coast headers, as they use the stock exhaust... wich in my opinion would totally flow enough. For me its not worth making anything if its gonna cost close to the price of a set of headers... I dont have allot of free time so my time is precious.

Well bump this up to the top...

My wiring is probably about 70% done. I've been keeping track of all my pinouts extremely dilligently and will post them when finished.

I do have one question...

Can you use the same common positive feed for all of the injectors? It would make the wiring so much prettier.

Thanks,

yes you can ! they just require 12V

Revin,
didnt the Fiero use 2 seperate fuses for the left and right bank of injectors? If still drawing from the injector wiring from Fiero harness you would want to up the fuse amperge or use half and half?? Thats a good question and it got me thinkin. Just dont want to over draw power on anything and burn up wires. We dont need to add fuel to the Fiero fire rumor
What do ya think?

arent you done yet craig lol

I didn't run any fuses to them directly. Loyde is the one that told me ( after I cleaned up the wires for the 2nd and last time) that you can run the wires all on one "injector" wire (pink)
Now if there are any fuses involved...you may just shoot him a email to confirm.

Ok wiring is almost done, next question, what did you do for your thermostat situation? I'm under the assumption of cutting up a 6 cylinder fiero t-stat housing, and welding it to the 4 cylinder. Is this correct?

some do it that way.
I used the stock GTP one that came with the eng.

quote Originally posted by RandomTask: Ok wiring is almost done, next question, what did you do for your thermostat situation? I'm under the assumption of cutting up a 6 cylinder fiero t-stat housing, and welding it to the 4 cylinder. Is this correct?

No--cut a small section out of the V-6 neck and weld it back together. Slightly turn the postion of the neck before welding it. This setup will work only if you delete the boost control solinoid valve. I did mine by coping off WCF site, they have a decent picture of it. Not that hard and alot cheaper then what they charge.

Any updates.

Nothing new at the moment... I am going to start un-stringing the wiring and getting rid of the stuff i dont need.

Because im going with OBD I i can get rid of the MAP sensor, and it only uses ONE knock sensor, but im gonna wire them both so i can switch back and forth to see how different they read. Also since this is my week off stuff will start to come about soon... Fieromaster88 MAY come down this weekend too... dunno if hes gonna bring the AWD DSM or the Fiero... and i cant decide wich id rather see him bring... id say fiero so we can go rice cooking

Will keep you up to date i promis!

I might be there, not sure yet. Depends on the week and money.

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quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: RandomTask... have you worked any on belt routing yet??? Im gonna go with alternator where AC is but if you arent we could see what your trying to work with. I am talking with a guy about the tensioners right now, im gonna see what we can get accomplished. Didnt know if you still needed ones that are like in this pic...

I am working on that right now as well as I have a bunch of pictures. Will post them soon

quote Originally posted by FieroMaster88: I might be there, not sure yet. Depends on the week and money.

dood if you come down where having a cookout friday night out buy my pond

Ill be going to Ed Morad's place today... Word has it he is the grand prix parts man! So stuff i need i should be able to find there!!! If any of you swappers are interested in anything let me know and i can see what he has and for how much money!

Hes had a few quick L67's
11.084@125.01 97 GTP retired in 2003
10.956@123.11 BADSSEI(1.638)

If only that were in a Fiero

I have a corvette pump ( for the LT1) $72 place where bought unknown ( az maybe)
not 1 problem.
If you plan on doing MAJOR mods then you should get the walbro (part # known )
that is the simple way of seeing it.
I run 50psi

wow man. LoL.. Naw for right now i want affordable direct replacement. I eventually am going to go external and get a monster pump. The Walbro's are nice i had one on my Laser RS that was a 255lph. Ran 50psi on 550CC injectors, which is about 55 Lbs/hr... hehe Like having Niagra Falls for an injector. Eh takes allot to get 50hp shy of 400 out of a 2.0L turbo.

Is your Vette pump a direct replacement? Darth said something about Vette pumps not moving enough, but if you maintain 50psi at all RPM and boost levels... it obviously is holding its own. Maybe he meant old t-body injected vettes??

Fieromaster, I purchased my Walbro 255 from online, a company called JDSPerformance (jdsperformance.com) They charged me $94+shipping and I got the GSS340M (High pressure) Its pretty much a direct replacement pump just connect the wires.

quote Originally posted by RandomTask: Fieromaster, I purchased my Walbro 255 from online, a company called JDSPerformance (jdsperformance.com) They charged me $94+shipping and I got the GSS340M (High pressure) Its pretty much a direct replacement pump just connect the wires.

Well now i feel like a dip$hit for buyin the Turbo TA pump....

Well here are pics of the new pump (TTA)
OH... get a strainer too... the PN from AutoZone is FS22

quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: Well now i feel like a dip$hit for buyin the Turbo TA pump.... Well here are pics of the new pump (TTA) OH... get a strainer too... the PN from AutoZone is FS22

i love it apic of me on the phone with you when we deside to drop a 4.9 in my fiero rather then fix the rod bearing

quote Originally posted by crazyfieromike: i love it apic of me on the phone with you when we deside to drop a 4.9 in my fiero rather then fix the rod bearing

Why fix broke stuff when you can put a bigger badder engine in and break MORE stuff?

quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: Why fix broke stuff when you can put a bigger badder engine in and break MORE stuff?

Normal People: If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

Engineers: If it isn't broken, it doesn't have enough features.

Fiero Owners : If it isn't broken, you haven't let my play with it long enough...

quote Originally posted by The Fieromaster: Well now i feel like a dip$hit for buyin the Turbo TA pump.... Well here are pics of the new pump (TTA)

I got my walbro from www.apeusa.com and it came with a full install kit (new O-ring, wiring, strainer, etc) It was a direct replacement for the 87/88 sending unit however, so I only needed the big O ring and the strainer. Still worth the extra $20 over the other 'factory' pumps.

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 08-03-2005).]

WELL Everyone... I made my stop at Ed's place... that guy has SO MUCH STUFF!!!!! He has bins and bins and BINS of misc parts!!! If you want to try something with manifolds.. he has like 50 of them, CHEAP... You name it the man pretty much has it.

I picked up my GTP supercharger tensioner bracket, because if you remember it sticks out to far to fit... Here is the old one versus the new one... You can see the big difference! Ill go through how to change that out and what you need to do so also!!

OLD routing VS the NEW way (use the yellow dipstick as a referance to pully stick out)...

Youll notice the difference like WOAH... As for the charger pulley wrap, youll notice its SLIGHTLY less. Should NOT cause a problem at all. The belt is about 3 inches shorter now too. Youll notice the vise grips down there. They are taking the slack out of the belt so i could at least get a mount for pictures and to make sure i have all proper clearence!

NOW, how to mount this puppy!!
You will need the following,
1 - 98 GTP Coil Pack Bracket/Charger Idler Tensioner Pully Bracket
2 - The bolts and hardware for pullies DONT lose the nut for center of tensioner, it is special because it is smaller washer shape built into bottom for tiny hole!
3 - The stud that the tensioner bolts onto (have to take off tensioner to get bracket off, get the stud out of block too its also special

Here is the old tensioner. You will notice it has 3 holes. The far left one and the bottom one are the only ones that hole it on, the top one is for the coil pack bracket. The bolt in the far left is actually just a nut that comes off... However, you will need to remove the stud. This stud gets replaced because this one is too short, the GTP one actually goes through the center of the tensioner pully (its what holds it on). Anyway, to get this off pull those two bolts and your set.

Here is the NEW and the OLD tensioners. The old tensioner is floating in space (i love photochop) in the exact position it would mount, although imagine that far left hole going where tensioner bolt is and the bottom going where the bolt between the tensioner and idler pullies are. Then youll realize how much more hard core the GTP bracket is.

This pic shows the 3rd mounting bolt (1-bolt tween pullies, 2-tensioner mount bolt) for the bracket. ***Remember when installing this you NEED the longer stud for the tensioner mount.
Back to bolt number 3 - The bolt i have has a stud on it too, possibly for the ground for the coil pack. BUT the coil pack is going elsewhere so i just stuck the ground under the bolt. You could probably just use a regular bolt if its RIGHT length

This side shot shows what and WHY this darn bracket is so monserous. It is also a motor mount bracket too... You can see the dog bone mounting. For NOW im going to leave it, i may end up cutting it off though as it does NOT effect how the bracket mounts and im 90% sure i wont be able to use it for anything. Who knows maybe a 2nd motor mount location off the fire wall? but i doubt it!

And lastly... the dog bone bracket that i scavanged that i WILL use. This bracket is going to go basically where the stock v6 one goes. HOWEVER if you look above at the engine pic there is stuff in the way!!! How ever will it mount on the head and block?? AH, that all comes off my freind. You dont use those coolant passages for the heater lines on the Fiero. I will go more into depth on that when i change the water pump next. Which is a GOOD IDEA cause no sence in pulling it BACK out for that! Anyway... on the stock GTP this bracket mounted to the opposite side of the coil pack brackets dog bone mount. On the tranny side of the SAME head. BUT since the heads are the SAME we are going to use the same holes but on the OTHER HEAD (because heads turn around from side to side this means the mount holes will be on the front of the engine JUST where we want it... nice how that works out eh?)
Here is the new dog bone mount which i will put on in my next update...

[This message has been edited by The Fieromaster (edited 08-03-2005).]