Do you have the PCM with the 3 big connectors, RED WHITE BLUE???
Red has an A row and a B row White has a C and a D row Blue has the E and the F row
IAC IS for the RA3,4,5,6
A11, A12, A13 are for Change Oil Lamp, Cruise Lamp, and "TCC PWM SOL" respectively.
EDIT: about that flywheel thing, thats just what I've seen thrown around on here. I got my flywheel already machined. In anycase, Loyde has been nothing but helpful on our swaps here so I would trust what he says for most of this stuff due to his experience with the 3800swaps compared to a bunch of us on here, lol....
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 09-25-2005).]
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05:46 PM
Songman Member
Posts: 12496 From: Nashville, TN Registered: Aug 2000
Hmmm.. Wonder how much different all of this would be to swap an SC into a 1990 Reatta. The 3800 is already there so that part should be easy. It is the electronics that scare me, converting to OBD II.
Originally posted by The Fieromaster: Where is Mcaanda... he was talking about this to me earlier... maybe he can shed some light?!?!
&
quote
Originally posted by The Fieromaster: Mcaanda help?
You have a pretty lengthy PM, and Loyde pretty much summed up what I sent in your PM.
Sorry about the delay, I have been pretty busy w/ getting the interior back into the SSEiGT. I got tired of the BS that needed to be taken care of & I really stepped into it when I ripped it ALL out @ once.
--Allen
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08:28 PM
PURPLE REIGN Member
Posts: 4080 From: Minnesnowta ------------------ Land of White Gold Registered: Sep 2002
I talked to Darth, who i got the plugs from... he said that indeed the plugs were from a different car so i would have to swap pin locations... There must be some sort of tool for that!?!?
James - thanks for figuring out wich plug is what... i didnt see it on that info from where i downloaded (stuff i DL'd is same stuff you sent me)
Jncomutt - My connectors are Red Clear and Blue... What pcm r u using?
SongMan - You could always LEAVE it OBD I... thats what my wiring is gonna be.
Mcaanda - thanks for the info... much obliged!
Reign - You suck So where do you park that car of yours....
Well i straightened all the PCM wiring connections out with Darth... i guess you can just take out the pins by removing the colored cover.. hehehe! Will start work on that ASAP!!!
JncoMutt... id love to see how you have it installed if ya dont mind!?
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08:31 PM
RandomTask Member
Posts: 4540 From: Alexandria, VA Registered: Apr 2005
Well i straightened all the PCM wiring connections out with Darth... i guess you can just take out the pins by removing the colored cover.. hehehe! Will start work on that ASAP!!!
JncoMutt... id love to see how you have it installed if ya dont mind!?
Oh really? *trots over to page 5 . . .
quote
Originally posted by RandomTask After I had hooked up all the sensors I was going to use, I took apart the C1 and C2 connectors. First, get a magic marker and write "C1" and "C2" on the respective connectors. Next you take the grey plastic backing off both of them. On the part that slides into the ECM (the blue plastic piece and the clear plastic piece), if you look at the sides of these you will notice some tabs. Push these in with a small flathead screwdriver then pull slide the cover off. There are two tabs per each of the four (two clear, two blue) connectors. Make sure you push them both in (not necessarily at the same time) Do not try to pry/yank on the cover as it will most likely break. Store these covers in a safe place where you will not lose them. You will now notice that the connectors are colorless which is why you wrote C1 and C2 on the sides (eliminates confusion on re-assembly)
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09:59 PM
Sep 30th, 2005
RandomTask Member
Posts: 4540 From: Alexandria, VA Registered: Apr 2005
Well we now enter CRUNCH WEEKEND... the all out full blown attempt to finish the swap THIS WEEKEND... Tentativly FieroMaster88 aka James is supposed to come down from Mi to help...
Just a bunch of wiring and small things to do still...
Got some batteries for the Cam so ill get LOTS O PICS...
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06:58 PM
Oct 3rd, 2005
RandomTask Member
Posts: 4540 From: Alexandria, VA Registered: Apr 2005
SongMan - You could always LEAVE it OBD I... thats what my wiring is gonna be.
OK thanks, I didn't know you could do that. Everyone says the big thing with the Reatta is trying to get the digital gauges and stuff to work right with it. I haven't had this car long enough yet to know how it all works but the guys on the Reatta forum pretty much say it can't be done and have the gauges work. I find that very hard to believe.
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03:08 PM
The Fieromaster Member
Posts: 4124 From: Painesville, Ohio USA Registered: Jun 2001
Songman.. If you coolant temp sensor is different from the 3800 then you may have to put one in from the Reatta, but there IS an extra hole in the intake manifold anyway from taking off the stock coolant passages for heater core so you could put it there, Since the PCM doesnt need the Oil pressure sensor you can use Reattas... i used the Fiero one for mine, although its a tight squeeze. For the TACH it depends on how the gauges read... but im assuming they may be ok if the Reatta uses a standard GM ignition modual, cause then it just reads so many pulses. and for the speedo, although im not sure HOW your speedo reads i know that the 3800 PCM sends the signal type then the fiero reads (i think analog and fiero needs digital... or the other way around) so you need a converter in some cases for fiero... BUT if your Reatta uses the same signal as the 3800 i believe that Darth or Loyd (whoever programs for you) can put the appropriate conversion needed for your gauge to read correctly... I believe! Other then that i dont see WHY gauges wouldnt work?
RandomTask and everyone else... Its all wired and we cut the flywheel down on my g/f's dads mill... Also got various other parts made and completed... The intake and a holder for air temp sensor (4" tube and 4" exhaust for temp sensor) i have like 3.5 FEET of 4" exhaust left from making that that i need to find a use for... haha! Some various other things done. I will take some pics today and get my list of stuff that needs done so i can show you how much i got to go. It WOULD have been in car if i wouldnt have trusted a freind of mine to hook me up with flywheel machining... got screwed and wasted 5 hours at LEAST doing that!! ARG! BUT in any case, there isnt much left to do before i can put it in!
Ack i almost forgot that i need some help with the alternator wiring...
My alternator has a 3 wire plug.. its the 1996 alternator from the Riviera.
The plug uses leads L F and S the colors for wires are... L - Red F - Grey and S - Light Blue
any help is much loved... thats all that needs done for the harness!!
On Darth's site there is a wiring diagram for the 98 Generator plug... http://dtcc.cz28.com/files/DelphiAlt4pinconnector.zip Its there... It shows the S and L terminals.... but NO F terminal. AND there is a 96 L36 wiring diagram that shows the L and F terminals... The L terminals in BOTH say they go to the Gernerator L terminal output which is the tun-on output from PCM... in the 98 it shows the S terminal going to fused power. In the 96 L36 it shows the GREY wire going to the Generator F terminal input on PCM and is labeled as the Field Output at the generator...
Is mine a combo of both or what? help!?
[This message has been edited by The Fieromaster (edited 10-03-2005).]
Edit for after you just edited your above post. Guess it didn't help.. LOL. My alldata GM DVD1 is messed up too, so I can't even double check and see if it would be on there.
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 10-03-2005).]
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10:31 PM
The Fieromaster Member
Posts: 4124 From: Painesville, Ohio USA Registered: Jun 2001
well Darth updated his site... there is new info for wiring the 94-95 PCM on the 3800SC... Under the special instruction section he added a bunch more PCM PIN data. The Generator Control RED goes to A29 and the Volt/Batt lamp wire BRN goes to A32. However that still leaves me with the F terminal and the S terminal...
I am assuming the brown wire is a PCM OUTPUT? So therefore must go to the Cars BATT light?
Perhaps i should still connect the S terminal to HOT to "Alt Sense Fuse" as it is in the 98 instructions? Then Leave the F terminal not connected like in the 98 instructions? Just ignore the 96 instructions all together... Hell if i know what a Field Output is... haha!
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08:43 PM
FieroMaster88 Member
Posts: 7680 From: Mattawan, MI Registered: Nov 2000
Here is the new welded thermostat housing... just turned it and changed the angle. Then i had to weld the little pipe in back and on heater line closed... no need for them
Here is the engine side pretty much complete. All i need is to plug the one old heater hole still... since NO ONE sells freeze plugs in certain sizes... only DAMN KITS!
Here is my intake... Some 4" rubber tubing from McMaster Carr... CHEAP, High Vac, and Smooth Bore! The tube to filter conversion is a piece from a 4' long section of 4" exhaust tubing.
Here is a good shot of the back of the engine... Check out the exhaust. NO bolts short enough for flange YET so i have to hold it on with vice grips for the pic. The one bend is just a mock up for me to see how the tips will align... its only held on by screwdriver and will be a BOLTED on piece, so i can adjust angle!
Here is a low shot of the same stuff... hehe that exhaust had to hang pretty low to get them 4" canister packs in there.
[This message has been edited by The Fieromaster (edited 10-04-2005).]
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10:03 PM
PFF
System Bot
Ken_86gt Member
Posts: 574 From: WILLIAMSBURG Registered: Jan 2004
I finally got my alldata GM1 dvd working again and I looked up the charging system diagrams for the 96 riviera SC, and it only lists L and F on the generator...
Edit, I read further in the fine print, lol... Here's what it says:
"CS-130 and CS-144 alternators may be used with only two connections. The battery positive BAT terminal must be connected to a battery during operation. The second required connection is through the indicator light, or a suitable external resistor to L terminal of the regulator which serves to turn unit On at start up. Three other regulator terminals are available for optional use in vehicle systems. The P terminal is connected to the stator, and may be connected to a tachometer or other device. The F terminal is connected internally to field positive, and may be used as a fault indicator. The S terminal may be connected externally to a voltage, such as battery voltage, to sense voltage to be controlled."
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 10-05-2005).]
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04:15 PM
crazyfieromike Member
Posts: 581 From: mentor ohio 44060 usa Registered: Mar 2002
Now i can finish that. Going to go to Summit tonight to get wire loom and flywheel bolts. I am going to stick with the Isuzu tranny for now because i NEVER have a day off work... I have to work ALL weekend 12 hours a day, which is ok cause at my work after the 7th day straight from that day on EVERY HOUR till you get another day off is OVERTIME!! haha! RAWK ON!
Also have to get a slave cylender and figure out a way to repair the clutch line... It got fried at the stainless brade from rubbing on the trans. I DONT want to get a new one cause they are 170$... wich is INSANE seeing about 2 years ago i bought one for 90$... from the DEALER!
Call bob from Kick Hill. If you don't mind swapping out the entire line, he may be able to get you a decent deal... Otherwise there are plenty of people parting out manual cars, maybe someone around you has one.
I don't know if they are still doing it, but I gathered up some junk rear brake calipers and brougt them back to The Fiero Store. They give you a store credit for them as cores, and then I used that credit to buy my new slave.
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05:56 PM
crazyfieromike Member
Posts: 581 From: mentor ohio 44060 usa Registered: Mar 2002
Here is the new welded thermostat housing... just turned it and changed the angle. Then i had to weld the little pipe in back and on heater line closed... no need for them
Here is the engine side pretty much complete. All i need is to plug the one old heater hole still... since NO ONE sells freeze plugs in certain sizes... only DAMN KITS! Here is my intake... Some 4" rubber tubing from McMaster Carr... CHEAP, High Vac, and Smooth Bore! The tube to filter conversion is a piece from a 4' long section of 4" exhaust tubing.
ok 1st . look at an adj. freeze plug. it has a nut on it that can betightened to make the fit. i use one with no problem.
2nd...hook me up some of that rubber tubing for MY intake!!!.....ne really!
In anycase, Loyde has been nothing but helpful on our swaps here so I would trust what he says for most of this stuff due to his experience with the 3800swaps compared to a bunch of us on here, lol....
So where do you park that car of yours.... 
