Hello again,
This will be a real short update, as my camera is loaded with wedding pictures (not mine) so I have not taken any yet...But, what I've done has gotten me excited because I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I've concentrated on the door panel and I made good progress. I've started finish sanding the outer portion in prep for final finish. I've also finished the door latch. I still need to do the manualk lock lever, but at least now I can open the door from the inside. <dinner break>...

OK, I'm back and own page 3...

I setup my latch a little differently than Roy (MrFixit), Jonathon (Jscott), and Nolan (Sourmug). On all of those, the handles were done prior to or while the panel layout was done, in escence, the door layout was built around the handle. I went a different route, as usual. I layed out the panel, with the handle in what I think is a good spot, built the panel, then tried to get the handle to work. Fortuneately, it worked out ok. It took me all day to do it, but I think this will work good and allows me to do the panel design without compromise. (Not saying that the other guys compromised, but if I would have mounted the handle first, I felt I would have to compromise something to get it to work and look right.)

The other thing I did was mold a light into the end of the armrest. I was trying to figure out how to cap the cutoff end when the thought of a light came to me. So I scrounged a bit and came up with the liscense plate lamps off the car I just scrapped. Almost a perfect fit into the end. A little foam and glasswork, and Voila.


This picture also shows the finish coat of Bondo I'm using. I guess it's relatively new, at least to me. It's a Bondo brand Profesional Gold. They might be taking a stab at the Rage Gold products. Seems to work well, very smooth and creamy. I'll continue to use it, at least until I try Rage Gold.

Another thing I wanted to show was the completed subwoofer, sitting in the car.


And here's a preliminary view of what it looks like together:

In this photo, I'm reshaping the portion of the panel that mates up to the speaker pod and the bottom of the dash.

I'll finish the update when I get the next batch of pics in....

Bob

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 09-04-2006).]

Since I had the door apart, I tried Rickady88Gt's flush-mount speaker info. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071981.html
By re-clocking the motor on the window regulator, one can free up some space in the door to clear a large speaker magnet. It was actually pretty easy thanx to his directions. It took about 2 hours, including tiome to BBQ some chicken.
I had a couple of slight differences. I didn't quite clock mine as high as his:

I'll probably go higher on the other side, unless it causes problems with the stops. I did npt have problems with the stops on this side. I mearly clearanced the front one to clear the end of the motor. ....OK, I re-read his thread about the bumpstop. I didn't think about clearance to the speaker, since I don't have a speaker in there yet. I'll update if I need to modify it more. Here's a pic of what I did:

And a blurry one through the window to show clearance to the motor:


This shot shows the amount of metal that is clear to be removed for the speaker:


This one came up in another thread concerning clearance to the parking brake handle. I'm not posting this there, since this is heavily modified, but I have a good inch between the handle and the door pocket.


And the last shows the door together (minus the switches):


Bob

That looks really , really, REALLY nice. I wish I had just a small portion of the talent in fiberglassing that I see in this thread as well as some other threads on the forum.

Great job.

Wow, by far the best Firebird door panel I have ever seen! Keep up the good work!

Careful, thats going to look so good that people might think that it came that way. Thats looking really good keep up the good work.

Cheers Beers n Gearz. Joe

Thanx Guys...I did some detail work today. I made the mounts for the armrest, and I setup the speaker. I cutout the hole in the door, mounted and test fit the speaker, and clearanced the front window stop. I had to take about 1/4" off the end of the stop. Lots of clearance and it still works fine. I also cut-down and rebent the lock rod, so that works now. Lastly, I pulled the door latch mechanism out, cleaned it, and re-installed it. If the weather remains rainy, I'll get back to finish and maybe get to doing the center piece. Joann Fabric, here I come.

Bob

Bob:

Your door panel look fabulous, just like it belongs there! Nice work as usual.

Nolan

This is the newest toy to add to the build:


It's a rear view monitor (7"TFT Sharp LCD) with back-up camera. I'll use it to replace the rearview mirror and integrate it into the headliner some how. I should be getting it in a few days. I'll add updates on the install once I get it in.

Bob

Glad to see you're making good progress on your interior again. Looking real good.

Fantastic job!!! So far it's the best door panels that I've seen. I really like the way you've integrated the firebird speaker pod/map pocket. I was going to go that route too but the project was taking so long that I scrapped the idea and simplified my design. I also like your armrest lights. Rather than keeping them clear, have you thought of inserting a red lens behind the clear lens (more of a safety design)? I installed lights in the hollow cavity under my armrest so it illuminates the ground when you open the door. Keep up the nice work.

Absolutely fantastic!! I am really glad to see that you are back on the case (mine will start again soon too). Your work looks great.

------------------

Project Fiero GT 2M8 Update thread

My thanx to everyone, again. I have it in my head that it'll never be done, so I keep adding things.

Roy: All the info you sent me was the inspiration. I'm just taking it to the next step. I was also thinking on the lines of replacing the bulb with a hi intensity red LED. Or, maybe something that blinks...Who knows.

Thanx again guys. You all are the inspiration to keep going.

Bob

Are there any finished pictures? I would love to see them.............

Wow...........

I wish it was finished, so sorry, what you see is what I've got done. I'm starting to plan out how the video screen will be integrated and what to do with the console. Too many plans ... not enough time.

thanx for checking in.

Bob

So, I was wondering how you intend to finish the doors? Where you custom molded around the side of the door, Are you just going to paint it? Or are you going to get it upholsterd like the dash? Also, do you know anything about paining the dash itself? I was thinking of doing some kind of custom paint scheme in my car......

Anyways, what do you think?

Phoenix: I will be painting the surround mettalic gray. It's a close color to the dash and can be seen on the subwoofer and air bag cover pics. As for painting the dash: With the proper prep work, it can be painted (or dyed). I don't think I could list the steps for the prep, so you might want to look elsewhere.

thanx for looking.

Bob

C'mon Bob, I'm gonna catch up with you at this rate! It looks good, can't wait to see the final product.

Nolan

No doubt Nolan...No doubt.

That's looking great!

------------------
Pontiac Fiero/Finale, full black leather interior with RHD conversion.

I just wanted to take a moment to vent about the weather...It sucks. I think we've had 3 dry weekends since the middle of August. Now it's wet and cold. Blech...

I did manage to do something...I stripped the material off of the passenger door panel and flattened it for use in modifying. Somewhere I read that brake cleaner works good for removing the carpet...Holy moley, was that ever right. It's like the brake cleaner re-activates the glue. It all pulled right off. There's still a lot of very sticky glue, but I can work with that. I didn't have a heat gun, so the vinyl was a little more difficult, but no big deal. I cut out the raised portion of the panel, screwed the whole thing to a piece of plywood to keep it flat and filled in all of the openings with glass (something I failed to do on the first one - I left the armrest hole open).
Pic of finished mods:


Hopefully I'll get a little more done today...

Bob

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 10-30-2006).]

I mocked up the rearview mirro and the camera yesterday. I figured out how/where to run the cables, and I mounted and tested the camera. I decided to mount the camera in the passenger compartment so I wouldn't have to worry about exterior dirt on the lense. I figured iot was easier to keep the window clean. I also mounted the camera on the passenger side looking back across. This is to eliminate the blindspot on the driver's side. I made a bracket out of .020" aluminum plate. I measured it out, and used a wood boring bit to cut a 1" hole (didn't want to wait to borrow a Greenlee). Once the hole was made, I cut it to width and bent it in the vise. It broke in two.... So, remembering a trick I saw Jessie James mention, I made another piece and this time heated it with a propane torch before bending it. Worked perfect.


A little black paint and some sheet metal screws and it was ready to go. Here it is form the inside:


And the outside:


I'm not too worried about the headliner because I have to modify it anyway. I'll shape the headliner around the camera to hide it more, plus I'm planning on speaker pods up there, too.
If the shot of the mirror would have come out, the view would look something like this:

The cardboard "post" to the right is the corner of the car, so visibility is very good.

Bob

quote Originally posted by RCR: This is the newest toy to add to the build: It's a rear view monitor (7"TFT Sharp LCD) with back-up camera. I'll use it to replace the rearview mirror and integrate it into the headliner some how. I should be getting it in a few days. I'll add updates on the install once I get it in. Bob

Bob, does that screen double as a mirror also? Rob

Rob,
Yes it has a reflective surface that the monitor shines through. If the monitor is off it works fine as a mirror, it's just not quite as reflective as a regular mirror.


Talk about a mental gap...I noticed this morning that I usually have my mirror pointed towards the passenger side blind spot, not the driver's side. I may have to move the camera. Once I have a seat and mirrors on the car, I'll have to see what works best.

Bob

For good or bad, these are my new seats:


I hope they fit. They are 2004 Mazda 3 seats, very similar to the seats in my 6. If they fit, I will add them to the seat thread I started.

Bob

Hey Bob, Very nice job on the door panel. The other side won't take as long to do. On the Firebird dash, is the hook up of all the controls & instruments fairly straight forward? It seems like the dash fits in the Fiero pretty well. Rob

Hi Rob,
I don't expect the passenger side to take as long. I already have a few ideas to try to help speed things up. Too bad the way the car is sitting right now, I can't open the door all the way....
The Firebird dash is pretty straight forward from what I understand, but I think you meant to ask Grand Am dash...That is not straight forward. Can't use the existing cluster without major mods. Had to rebuild the HVAC controls. New ductwork. Other than that, it's a snap.

Bob

Had some fun at a couple junk yards yesterday. I've got a few things to work on now. I picked up the power mirror connector I needed, so I can finish wiring that up. I picked up a complete glovebox, and altough way too deep to fit, I've alread cut and modified it to go on. Just need to redo the hinges on that. I also picked up a shifter surround from a 2001 Grand Am (imagine that, more Grand Am parts). I will need to modify the shifter for it to fit properly, then I can start on the console. I could kick myself too, for lo and behold, there was a 2004 Mazda 6 with seats just like the ones I just bought, but in black, for $65 cheaper than I just paid for mine. Oh well...

Also, I will probably be adding another Fiero to the stable today. Short term project to get on the road. Long term? Who knows.

later...

Bob

Bob,

What's involved in getting that HVAC controller to work in the Fiero?

Rob

Rob: I used the electric actuator that Riceburner is using to control the heat door. That is a direct wire up. I had to make a selector switch for the different modes with a small circuit. The fan switch isn't connected yet. I was working on a variable speed controller for it, but came across a switch at work that might work. Check out the 6'th page of my dash swap thread for more details.

Bob

The seats arrived last Friday. I was so excited. They looked brand new. They're not anymore...

Let's see, I guess the best way to explain it is to say that Mazda 3 seats are not meant to go into a Fiero. I've got about 10+ hours into the driver's seat, and I think I've figured out a way to do it. I've totally dismantled the lower half of the seat, and let me just say it was a work of art the way it was assembled. ...Not anymore...I've drilled out dozens of rivets, cut, pasted, and welded things together just to take it apart again. Two more cuts to get it low enough and I can weld it back together. Then I need to fab up two brackets for the back of the seat bottom, shorten the hand bar for the seat adjust, and add two mounting studs to the floor and it should be done.

I guess I'm too stubborn to call it a loss and get seats that fit.

Boy this is FUN!!!

pics later...

Bob

Let's get some pics and an explanation posted....

Here's what I started with, '04 Mazda 3, with manual lumbar and height adjusts.



This is what the bottom mechanism looks like without the seat cushion.


Here's a slider with the mounting feet removed. Just about everything is riveted together. What a PITA!!!


Here, I'm finally getting a bit smarter. I've removed everything, including the seat back. I've mounted the modified rails to a piece of plywood to keep everything square.

I'm using 1/2" angle to tie the right and left sides together. The main portion of the seat braket the runs along the sides has had 1/2" trimed off the bottom. The sides are welded to 1/8" bar stock which is in turn welded to the Mazda rails. I'm using the stock floor mounts for the right side, and the left front. A custom left rear was made out of 1.5" angle.

I also had to lower the seat bottom. I did this by removing the cover and cushion from the metal "basket". I shaved 1/2" off the bottom of the cushion using a serated knife.


I then had to raise the floor of the basket. I used a Dremel and cutting wheel to cut a flap out of the bottom of the basket. I reshaped the bottom using a hammer and dolly and tacked it back together.

This pic also shows where I had to clearance the rear mounts to clear the sliders.

Then I re-installed the cushion and cover.

I'll have to post the finished pics later.

Bob

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 11-28-2006).]

On to more fabrication.

Yesterday, I started the center console. What I've done so far is to take the original console skeleton, and chop it to fit. (It was broken anyway). I've taken the plastic "walls" out to make the console a little narrower than stock. It frees up about an 1" on either side for leg room. I placed the two skeleton pieces on the hump, and positioned a piece of foam on top, and hot glued it in. I then marked and cut out the opening for the shifter bezel (Grand Am, see above).
I took it out of the car, filled in more foam, and started sanding away. I'll worry about how it mates to the subwoofer and dash once it's roughed in.

Here's the shifter bezel installed:


I always seem to have problem laying the glass down, especially over complicated surfaces. I saw on another post that someone had used spray glue to hold the glass in place, so I figured what the hey..I used a craft tack glue on the foam and cloth and stuck it together. Seemed to work rather well. I used 1.5 oz glass cloth to get the basic shape, I'll build it up with heavy cloth on the sides and mat on the top and inside.


And here it is under my hot lamps (two 500W halogen work lights) drying:


That's it for now...

Bob

quote Originally posted by RCR: This one came up in another thread concerning clearance to the parking brake handle. I'm not posting this there, since this is heavily modified, but I have a good inch between the handle and the door pocket.

Hi,

Just wondering if you had any pictures of the parking brake handle with the cover off and how you bent it?

Or did you just 'exaggerate' the bends that it already had? Any issues with the release button binding??

thanks,
Tim

I did not bend the handle. It is in stock trim. I do not have pictures of it without the cover because I've never taken it off, sorry... The bendy look must be from the angle I took the picture.

Bob

Keep going!

Anyways, have you gotten the first door panel done? What have you decided to put in the center of it, carpet, or somthing else? Also, Have you actually turned on your woofer yet? How does it sound? Also, have you considerd going with electric door poppers? Im not sure if there is a guide for it on the forum, but it would be cool! Anyways, keep us updated!!

Mike

[This message has been edited by pheonix97031 (edited 02-06-2007).]

Hi Mike...

Thanx for checking in. The garage is in a deep freeze right now. Probably won't be til spring when I can work on the doors again. But that doesn't stop progress. I wasn't that happy with how the Mazda seat turned out. So, I'm following 30+MPG's rehopolstery thread and I'm going to try to redo the Fiero seats. At least this is something I can try inside. This also allows me to match the seats to the door panels. As it stands, the center sections on the doors and seats will be red suede. The outer surfaces will be grey.
Door poppers? Hmm? That will be a decision I make once I get to the outside, but right now I have no plans. And, I'm ashamed to say, I haven't heard the stereo yet.

Bob

BUMP!

------------------

Thanx for the lift.

No progress other than reading about custom interior upholstery and ordering more material samples.

Bob