This is the kind of thing that happens when you're a Fiero-addict that's just coming off a car show buzz. hehe
I'd been checking out the threads on Alex's GTRwidebody from Daytona and somehow got this tiny little notion in my head that fiberglassing would be something that I'd like to see done up close--or even possibly try at some point.
So, of course, next thing I know, I'm searching the archives for info and started checking out Fie Ro's threads (very good pics and details btw) and ended up browsing "fiberglassing for newbies" websites.
Found myself at Wal-Mart a couple of hours later with my arms full of supplies---resin, hardener, respirators, fiberglass mat, fleece, painter's tape, gloves, brushes, mixing bowls, etc.--everything that was on the list for "Fiberglassing 101".
I have no clue what I'm doing. No clue what I'm going to try and make.
Maybe I'll start with something easy like an ashtray or a fiberglass ball. hehe
Just don't laugh too loud.
~Tress
P.S. Okay Alex, you said I could do it.
------------------ I may not know alot about cars...but I make a Fiero look good!
If I can do it so can you! Cudo's to you for having the determination and drive to do it. The best way to learn is to jump right in and try something. I agree you should practice first on a small project. Good luck and have fun.
Nolan
Edit to say that I gave you a + for not letting anything deter you.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 03-31-2006).]
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12:54 AM
Raydar Member
Posts: 40958 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
I didn't start out with nearly as much ambition. I bonded the whaletail on my car with fiberglass cloth and polyester resin. Blended it using the appropriate "blue" SMC filler.
About halfway through the job, I ran out of skill (someone else said "patience") and asked my painter to finish it out for me.
I do wish you luck, though.
------------------ Raydar 88 Formula IMSA Fasback.............................. 88 3.4 coupe................................................ Praise the Lowered!Read Nealz Nuze!
You sure went to town at the store there didn't you. This sure would make a great Fiberglassing 101 thread. I will be learning in the next two weeks here how to fiberglass as well to get my over the roof scoops done. Looking forward to your build.
------------------ 1985 2M4 -A/F and Voltmeter gauges in A-Pillar gauge pod -Jenzen Bass tube............................................-Mini scorpion wing -MTX 250W RMS amplifier..................................-2003 Subaru WRX 16" rims -Viper Security system
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12:59 AM
ryan.hess Member
Posts: 20784 From: Orlando, FL Registered: Dec 2002
I see fiberglass mat, but no fiberglass cloth.......
Oh, btw, the NUMBER ONE tool you should have, but I don't see -
a mini paint roller. They're about 1" dia x 3" long, and work WONDERS to remove the air bubbles, and keep the glass down and out of your hair. (more or less literally, depends on your style )
[This message has been edited by ryan.hess (edited 03-31-2006).]
Man. I did the same thing with painting. I went out and got what I needed and started learning by trial and error, using my rear spoiler as a test rat. I then started a color scheme of dark blue and off white racing stripes on my deck lid. It turned out great, but with some imperfections. I'm a perfectionist, so I'm doing it all over. Thinking about taking some classes so I can do it at a professional level.
Anyhow, I can't wait to see your outcome. Post the pics, hope you do well.
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01:23 AM
Ms Formula Member
Posts: 138 From: Pittsburgh area, Pa USA Registered: Mar 2005
Yes , definately post pics all along the way. Over this past summer I started working with fiberglass. I have so many things I want to try out with it. Trial and error by yourself is the best way to learn. I love build threads like yours , lots of pics help so much. Cant't wait to see!
Also- if you could post the addresses of some of the fiberglassing websites you found , that would be great. I try to search all over too for good sites, but have been unlucky to find a really good one for me.
------------------
[This message has been edited by Ms Formula (edited 03-31-2006).]
Other things that you can use so that it doesnt stick to molds is cellophane, Pam, waxed paper. You can use just the resin with hardener to make small stuff like little emblems. Just press your part into some modeling clay, pour your mixed resin in, then peel off the clay after it dries.
Glad to see you back on. I hadnt seen any of your enthusiastic posts for a while
Oh, wear some disposable latex gloves...dont want that all over your nice pretty hands
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09:59 AM
PFF
System Bot
Cheever3000 Member
Posts: 12400 From: The Man from Tallahassee Registered: Aug 2001
Everyone around here thinks I'm nuts for using it on farm eqpt, but for many things, it works better than cutting out sheet metal and welding. When temp is low use more hardener (not much to worry about in Ga), and damp days is not good. Other than that, you can use it for anything but makeup foundation. Just a little too stiff for that! tg
I get the same response. On combines and auger tubes where the grain wears through the metal, fiberglass lasts damn near forever. At first they laughed, now they bring their crap to me to fix. If you wear through an auger or elevator bottom, just cut a piece of matte to cover the area. Clean it up as best you can. Lay the matte on some saran wrap, put on enough resin so it will thoroughly wet out, put another layer of saran wrap over the top and squeegee it so it's nice and flat and saturated. Take the whole thing out where you need the repair and pull one of the pieces of saran wrap off. Lay it over the repair spot and squeegee it into place through the last layer of saran wrap. Let it cure, then peel the saran wrap off for a perfectly smooth finish. Paint it and the repair will last longer than the metal it's attached to and nobody will know the difference.
John Stricker
quote
Originally posted by TennT:
Everyone around here thinks I'm nuts for using it on farm eqpt, but for many things, it works better than cutting out sheet metal and welding. When temp is low use more hardener (not much to worry about in Ga), and damp days is not good. Other than that, you can use it for anything but makeup foundation. Just a little too stiff for that! tg
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03:24 PM
1986 Fiero GT Member
Posts: 3383 From: Eden, NY USA Registered: Mar 2005
Fiberglassing is fun, you'll enjoy it. Especially when you can say you mastered the art of composites, cause that's what it is...art. Anyway, just make sure you don't breathe in the fumes, those are bad. Otherwise, you can all but remake the Fiero using the spaceframe as your canvas, and use lots of fiberglass cloth and a crapload of resin.
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03:29 PM
crytical point Member
Posts: 569 From: sanford FL USA Registered: Feb 2006
mask...... Pfft don't need stupid mask.... my interior is mostly fiberglass now and I started out doing fiberglass body repair on a vega then speaker box's and now interior peices for the fiero. Especially for my new 3rd brake light fixture with 2 new map lights to light the interior a little better. If you get good I have charged upwards to 400$ for just fiberglassing a top for a MDF speaker box and they pay for it.
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09:08 PM
motoracer838 Member
Posts: 3751 From: Edgewater Co. USofA Registered: Jan 2006
There is something about a gal that'll roll up her sleeves and get dirty. J/K I couldn't help myself. You'll find it a really cool way to make stuff, and if you do enugh of it you'll get to a point that you don't notice the itch anymore. Cheers Beers n Gears. Joe
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11:59 PM
Apr 1st, 2006
Saxman Member
Posts: 5151 From: Melbourne, FL Registered: May 2005
I'm scared, you got all this at Wal-mart? Good luck with what you make. I might have to check my Wally-mart niow. I need to plug holes from the luggage rack permitting water in the trunk.
Brian
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01:48 AM
PFF
System Bot
TennT Member
Posts: 1523 From: Humboldt, Tenn Registered: Nov 2002
............. Lay the matte on some saran wrap, put on enough resin so it will thoroughly wet out, put another layer of saran wrap over the top and squeegee it so it's nice and flat and saturated. Take the whole thing out where you need the repair and pull one of the pieces of saran wrap off. Lay it over the repair spot and squeegee it into place through the last layer of saran wrap.
John Stricker
Haven't tried the saran wrap yet. I've used lots of stuff with good results. I guess we'll make Tress an expert before she smokes her first resin!! Is it just me or does that stuff smell like old hair dresser shops? tg
..uh, any resemblance of that remark to other substances, legal or not, is strictly co-incidental
that's not the first time I have said that about a lady, so I needed to clarify tg
[This message has been edited by TennT (edited 04-01-2006).]
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07:39 AM
TennT Member
Posts: 1523 From: Humboldt, Tenn Registered: Nov 2002
i love foolin' with that stuff (emphasis on fool skillwise). for me i think it's easier to try building/modding little interior pieces first, like a pair of speaker pods, or the guy who made a video pod out of his aux guage pod (been wanting to do that exact thing later).
an interior piece is probaly gonna be smaller than anything you might be considering body wise, plus it dosen't wear on your patience as much getting things glass smooth for exterior paint since most interior pieces either have a bit of texture to them anyway or might get covered with carpet, interior matched cloth or something. then you can go for bigger, more perfectly finished things later once you have some basics down (my personal downfall. i hate sanding and finish work).
and show your work so we can stea... er... i mean consult with you on your ideas.
------------------ Phil T.
start where you are, use what you have, do what you can. arthur ashe
I've done the plastic wrap before, it works great. Helps to work out the bubbles before you apply it to your work. Also works well when your working out on a boat and dont have time to do a big layup at the job. Good luck
------------------ 1987 SE V-6 Notchback(Hardtop Model, no Sunroof!) with the following Mods: 87 Sport Coupe Nose (I love this Look:drool:) 88 GT Rear Clip (Combined with a Coupe Nose this is it for me:D) Wing Relocared an inch and a half rearward(this mod is almost never spotted, even by Fiero Owners) :p Repainted in 1995 Corvette Competition Yellow Base / Clear Custom Side Intake Scoop with "Ram Air VI" Decal Dark Tinted GT Sail Panels TSW Trophy Wheels Pegasus Shield Fender Decals And now a new addition! 1987 Fiero GT "Project" Stay posted for details ! Check out My website at http://www.auto-classics.biz/acmain.htm
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07:38 PM
Miss-Tress007 Member
Posts: 541 From: New Orleans, LA, USA--now in Greensboro, GA thanks to Hurricane Katrina Registered: Feb 2004
Okay, guys. Just to allay your fears...no jake, I did not superglue myself to myself! LOL
I've been trying to decide what to do as my first "test project". And I had to go out and get some of the supplies that I was missing. I found this stuff at Hobby Lobby (and lots of other cool stuff that I'll go back for later).
Now, thanks to rogergarrison, I know what I'm gonna do---an emblem! (I never would have thought of it if you hadn't mentioned it, Roger.) Just to get a feel for using the resin, mixing and sanding I can do a small badge/emblem for the fiero of this:
I'll use the modeling clay to create the plug and then from there make the mold. (Did I say that right?) I won't need to do alot of sanding (hopefully) because it'll be small, and I won't have to do alot of painting either. This will be the perfect way to get my feet wet a little and get to feel my way around working with this stuff. (I still might try that fiberglass ball after all though. hehe)
Once I get the hang of things with the badge/emblem, my next project will involve using these little sticks that I picked up from the hobby shop:
(Sorry, I can't tell you what it's for yet. Gotta keep it under wraps until it actually works! LOL Translation: I'm not sure it is gonna work!) I got the idea for it when I was kicking around possibilities and figured it would be the next logical step, 'cause then I'd be working with other materials to make the plug and mold for this one. (Gotta take baby steps. hehe)
Once I'm finished with the "sticks", my project after that will involve going to the next level. I made a mock up in styrofoam and tape. Can you guess what it is? LOL To finish this one I'm gonna need my "check wallet light" to go off first, but its gonna be nice and I think you guys will like it.
Of course, I'll be sure to post lots of pics and chronicle my "exploits" with this new undertaking...er..."potential messup in the making". hehe Be prepared for lots of questions!
Now that I've got my plan before me......let the fiberglassing begin! hehe
~Tress
Oh, btw--I hadn't noticed the ratings bar until you guys mentioned it. I didn't think I'd done anything to warrant ratings from anyone--go figure! hehe Thanks all!
[This message has been edited by Miss-Tress007 (edited 04-01-2006).]
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08:23 PM
Gokart Mozart Member
Posts: 12143 From: Metro Detroit Registered: Mar 2003
This could be good. Fiberglass and me historically have not got along too well. I need some inspiration and guidance. Here's a suggestion on what to build...
Alright. I ended up having to make a different "project" my first fiberglassing experience......the spoiler on the car got cracked, so I had to repair it (there's a Georgia Fiero Club meeting tomorrow.....can't take the car out looking less than perfect, right? )
So, had to take off the spoiler first. (Somehow it seemed so easy when Suufmeister put it on....) You can see the crack on the driver's side corner. Doesn't look that great in person, either. Now you can see why I had to take it off and repair it.
Here are some pics of my "baby" without the front spoiler. Still looks good, I think, but maybe a little "naked" in the front? hehe
Here she is from the front. Somehow the car doesn't look as "mean" as before? Hmmm....
Here's the spoiler after we got it off....finally. Ended up having to jack the car up a bit in order to get underneath and get to the stupid screws on the sides. Since there's a bit of a lip underneath, it's hard to get a screwdriver in there to unscrew the darn thing. Before I put this back on I'm defnitely modifying it a bit to fix that problem.
Here's a closeup of the damage from the inside. It shouldn't be too hard to fix. You can see that it's been reinforced in that area before. Kinda lets me know that I'll probably be doing this again at some point. LOL
~cont~
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08:54 PM
Miss-Tress007 Member
Posts: 541 From: New Orleans, LA, USA--now in Greensboro, GA thanks to Hurricane Katrina Registered: Feb 2004
The first thing I did was to reinforce the area with clear duct tape. I needed to make sure that the spoiler didn't move and cause the two pieces of the break to shift out of place or twist anymore. So I lined up the two sides of the break and pulled a couple of layers of tape over it to hold it in place. Clear duct tape works better IMO because you can actually see through it and have a pretty good idea of what you've covered and how well you taped everything up. Plus, it's easy to rip off and grips really well.
I made sure to extend past the break quite a bit so the tape could reinforce the weak area of the spoiler while I worked on it.
Next I set up my work area out on the porch. Grabbed all of the materials that I'd need and tried to put everything within reach, since I know I'll have to act quickly once I get started.
Now, let the fiberglassing begin! LOL
The first thing I did was to sand down the inside of the spoiler where I planned to reinforce it and repair the break. I used a combination of the handheld sandpaper sponge and the small dremmel tool sander. It didn't take much elbow grease, just enough to clean things up a bit and create a surface where the resin would hold.
Then I used aluminum foil as my workmat since the resin won't stick to it. (Thanks to Alex's dad for the tip.) I ripped up pieces of the fiberglass mat and placed them on a sheet of the foil until I was ready to use them. I also made sure to rip off pieces that were a bit longer than the actual break that I was going to be repairing so it could come out nice and strong.
Now it's time to mix the resin and hardener. I made sure to use my gloves for working with both the fiberglass mat and the resin. I didn't want to take the chance and glue my fingers to anything! LOL (You don't have to worry, Jake, I'll be careful. hehe)
I cut the edges off of the paintbrush that I was going to use, just to make sure and rough up the edges so the resin would stay on the brush better. Then I used a small mixing container to pour out my resin....
I had to eyeball it and "guesstimate" how much I'd used since there weren't any markings on the container and it wasn't see-through. (Suggestion to resin manufacturers....put the resin in a clear container that's marked so we can know how much of this stuff we're using!!!)
I eyeballed the hardener and then mixed them together using a popsicle stick that I bought from the hobby store. Since I was just going to need to use a little of the mixture, I didn't need to get paint sticks.
After mixing the resin and hardener, I used the brush to apply the mixture directly to the area of the spoiler that I wanted to repair. I made sure to go a few inches past the break on both sides.
~cont~
~Tress
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09:11 PM
Miss-Tress007 Member
Posts: 541 From: New Orleans, LA, USA--now in Greensboro, GA thanks to Hurricane Katrina Registered: Feb 2004
I added a couple of layers of the resin/hardener mixture over the repair area just to give it a solid foundation and to fill in any small cracks or holes that I couldn't see.
Now to add the fiberglass mat....I thought it would be easier if I applied the resin/hardener mixture to the fiberglass material before adding it to the spoiler. So I laid the first piece of material on top of the aluminum foil and brushed a bit of the solution on one side the mat. Then I pulled the fiberglass material up and placed it (sticky side down) on top of the spoiler. Then brushed more resin/hardener on top.
I repeated that process about 3-4 times to get about 3-4 good layers added. Brushing the mix onto the fiberglass mat before placing the material on the spoiler made it alot easier to work with this stuff and to place the material exactly where I wanted it to go. It was also easier to cover the material with the resin mixture since the fibers weren't sticking to the brush.
I was just thinking that this was going really smooth, when I discovered that the resin had started to gel up!
So I frantically tried to apply more of the mixture to the spoiler (this stuff is expensive, can't waste any of it! LOL). Do I really need to say that it didn't work? hehe
Note to self: Work very quickly! This stuff WILL harden up pretty fast.
Since the mixture was a total loss. I decided there was no need to lose a brush too, so I soaked the brush in acetone.
It worked pretty well and I got the resin mixture out with no problem. (I had to push down on the bristles and move it around to break up the resin, but it came off okay.)
So after rinsing my gloves off with acetone, I left the spoiler outside for the fiberglass to dry.
Now I wait for about an hour and a half (at least) for it to dry.
Here's a video of the first part of the process:
I'm not sure if I did it right, but I have a whole new respect for people who fiberglass anything. I used about half a can of the resin just for that little piece. I can't imagine how time consuming and expensive it would be to create something as large as a hood scoop, dash or car panel! Props to the fiberglassing gurus!
Cross your fingers!
~Tress
[This message has been edited by Miss-Tress007 (edited 04-07-2006).]
)
Thinking about taking some classes so I can do it at a professional level.
Archie's Choptop conversion #11, #15, Redux & # 20
