OK, I've been asked for more details about the mechanics of the swap so here goes:
Question: is the 4-speed clutch and the 5-speed clutch interchangeable?YES and NO. The factory 4-speed clutch had thinner tines (the fingers in the center) on the pressure plate than the 5-speed. But aftermarket 4-speed clutches are usually the more durable 5-speed version. If you have the original clutch and pressure plate in your Fiero replace it. If you have a new clutch and pressure plate with lots of life left on it you can keep it for the 5-speed tranny.
...BUT, the throw out bearings are NOT interchangeable so make sure you have the right one for your application.
Question: How did you get the engine out?First off, If you are just doing a tranny swap you don't need to remove the engine. Just take out the rear cradle bolts, remove the brake calipers (lines and all) from the rotors and hang them on a wire to the side, remove the 3 strut tower nuts, remove the mud mats, disconnect vacuum lines to the cruise and brake booster, ground straps, tranny cables, battery cables, and the dog bone, if you have a 4-cyl you will need to remove the TBI from the intake, and put the car on jack stands. Let the cradle swing down to about 60 degrees. The hoses and wires will twist with the cradle. Use a 2x4 and some rope or chains to support the engine when you disconnect the tranny. DRAIN TRANNY FIRST!
If you want to remove the engine, I used 2 jack stands and an engine hoist. I have some custom made dollies for the engine to sit on. Just built with 2x6 lumber and heavy duty casters. After disconnecting everything let the car sit on the cradle. Then connect the engine hoist to the trunk latch and lift the car right off the engine. This WILL bend the latch slightly. I use a spare just for this function but if you don't have one you can just pound yours with a hammer to unbend it when it's time to put the engine back in. Two good whacks is usually sufficient. Push the engine out of the way and lower the car onto the jack stands.
Question: Can I keep my 4-speed cablesNO.
Question: which clutch slave do I need?Several will work but I strongly recommend using a high quality NEW cast iron slave. Don't buy a rebuilt one and don't buy a Chinese knock-off. This is one area you WILL regret going cheap. TRUST ME! The years are 1986-1987 GT slave or you can use a 1985-86 4-speed slave but you need to drill out the threaded stud holes for it to fit and you still need to use the 86-87 push rod or shorten the 85-86 to the right length . Don't use an 88 slave...even for an 88. One of the worst examples of regressive engineering I've ever seen.
Question: is this a one man job?YES and NO. I am one man and I did it myself. But I have years of experience. I strongly recommend an extra set of hands for the tranny removal if you've never done it before. Wear gloves when pulling it out, you WILL bust some knuckles. Use a pry bar to separate the tranny from the block. It should slide apart relatively easily. When matching the tranny back to the engine DON'T force it. It will take some fiddling to get the input shaft to slip into the clutch. Use a little lithium grease on the end of the shaft and push it together by hand. Only after the tranny is on the guide pins and within 1/4 inch or so together do you start tightening the bolts.
Question: what kind of gear oil do I use and how much?Can open, worms everywhere! OK, I'm a purist. Others will say Pennzoillube is fine, yada yada. And it probably is, but I only use GMs factory lube for my tranny. Available at any GM Parts Department, #12345356 (from memory). Use about 2 quarts (1.9 officially).
[This message has been edited by Toddster (edited 07-18-2007).]
