The following thread will be the official build up thread for my Indy. Forgive me in that this is the second thread that I have started in the past year
But I didn't post enough updates and the first thread was archived.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000002/HTML/20050410-1-042082.html

I have had the Indy almost a year. What is it about May that my thoughts turn to Indy?

This is how it looked after fascia replacements

Anyway I thought I was about to get it on the road last year and in addition to a host of other projects I found a host of other problems with the Indy. First it needs brakes. I struggled with whether or not to keep it stock, or custom....

I decided that I would allow mild custom upgrades, so instead of those dreadful solid rotors I am at least upgrading to zinc plated drilled and slotted. It probably won't improve stopping power, but anything is better than a solid rotor. This is my first experience with 84 to 87 brakes and look at the rotor compared to 88 and then compare that to 12" Corvette upgrade for 88, which do you think is better?

I am also replacing the calipers and flushing all the fluid. I might do the stainless steel flexlines now that the DOT lines are available.

Stand by for more updates...

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1988 GT (Firebird Interior),1988 Fastback (4.9 Chop-top #1 of 1), 1984 Indy...Firebird Interior Installation Website

OK
I'm gonna book mark this one.
I vote for stock if you wanted to know

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85 SE (My first love)
84 Indy 4 Speed
84 Indy Auto 44,000 miles

HUmm, this one needs a 3800SC. Performance with the Indy tradition. 'Speed'....

Loyde

quote Originally posted by ohioindy: I vote for stock if you wanted to know

I am going to keep it mostly stock. Nothing that I can't remove if I ever decide to go 100% original later. I just have a hard time buying a stock part when I know there is something better available.

No disrespect to the indy purists but i say,......

CUSTOMIZE THE HELL OUT OF IT !!! Hehehehehe,.....

Good luck on your project !

[This message has been edited by exoticse (edited 05-18-2005).]

Okay I was trying to figure out why the car was idling rough so I hooked up my new scan tool

The only thing is the car is now purring like a kitten. Funny how just being in a garage makes a car more well behaved.

But I did notice it was taking a long time to heat up, and it's in open loop. So I check the thermostat; there is none.

A quick trip to the thermostat store, (also known as my backyard) and the car warmed up nicely to about 110C then it dropped to about 90C, the radiator got warm, the "new" thermostat works!

But still no closed loop. Also the code for the MAP sensor is set. Tomorrow I'll go to the MAP sensor store and replace that and see if it helps. Where is JazzMan when you need him???

Looks like a heck of a project..wish mine was in that good of shape.

what type of monitor are u using there? thats pretty sweet, whats the cost of one?

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Lothurin
84 Fiero 2m4 ( no name yet)
90 Beretta GTZ (black dragon)
96 Chevy Corsica (green pile)

quote Originally posted by Lothurin: what type of monitor are u using there? thats pretty sweet

It's a tablet PC www.electrovaya.com

It works great as a scan tool, GPS, MP3 player, DVD player...anything that a normal computer can do.

Maybe this belongs in tech, but I don't want to have two separate threads going.

I discovered the MAP reading was probably just a low unstable idle. I can probably just clear that one. The open loop is indicative of a faulty O2 sensor or wiring. I checked the wiring the Connector to O2 sensor was melted; and disconnected. I need to splice in another one, clear the codes and have another go at it tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 05-19-2005).]

quote Originally posted by exoticse: No disrespect to the indy purists but i say,...... CUSTOMIZE THE HELL OUT OF IT !!! Hehehehehe,..... Good luck on your project !

And hell is where you shall burn…

quote Originally posted by jscott1: A quick trip to the thermostat store, (also known as my backyard) ........

quote Originally posted by ohioindy: And hell is where you shall burn…

quote Originally posted by ohioindy: And hell is where you shall burn…

I'll be the one driving the indy on dubs, with the raised spoiler, hood scoops, and side vents. .

quote Originally posted by exoticse: I'll be the one driving the indy on dubs, with the raised spoiler, hood scoops, and side vents. .

I give up

I say you are doing it right... keeping the updates to bolt on.
Keep the updates coming !! Looks great so far. John

quote Originally posted by jscott1: It's a tablet PC www.electrovaya.com It works great as a scan tool, GPS, MP3 player, DVD player...anything that a normal computer can do. Maybe this belongs in tech, but I don't want to have two separate threads going. I discovered the MAP reading was probably just a low unstable idle. I can probably just clear that one. The open loop is indicative of a faulty O2 sensor or wiring. I checked the wiring the Connector to O2 sensor was melted; and disconnected. I need to splice in another one, clear the codes and have another go at it tomorrow.

I got a used Tablet PC from TigerDirect, and I love it! Its a NEC VERSA LitePad which is very similar to yours. It weighs about 2 lbs and can do anything a regular laptop can do. It is a little slower on speed, but that's because I picked it up used and its not the brand spanking $3000 model.

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- Matthew

Black, Wingless '87 GT

After discovering the melted O2 sensor connector I decided to replace the whole O2 sensor. So I take a trip to the O2 sensor store, (my backyard) and grab one. Unfortunately it's cracked and looks pretty ratty. So I go to the real store and pick up a brand new one. The O2 sensor is a consumables and should be replaced every couple of years anyway. And don't waste your money on the fancy O2 sensor socket. a 12" adjustable wrench works just fine.

Got the O2 sensor installed, (luckily the vehicle side connector was not melted) and low and behold I have closed loop!!

But even after resetting the ECM I'm still getting a MAP sensor code 33. So I disconnect it and I get a code 34, and the idle is hunting real bad between 1000 RPM and 1400 RPM. This is actually good I think because it means the wires are working. So I go to the MAP sensor store, (my backyard again) grab a MAP sensor plug it in, reset the ECM and POW! no more codes. The idle is rock solid and the engine leans out, and the integrator is working.

Along with the new CAT I installed last year I think the engine is ready to pass emissions testing. Now all I have to do is await my order from Calipers Online to get the new brakes installed and I think I'll be ready for inspection

that scantool you got there, did the software come with the reader, or did you download it? I only ask, cause i like it's easy and simple read out. I use winALDL, but that one looks nice. Any chance of you making an image?

thanks

-Coop

The software I'm using comes with the Scan tool, which is a USB powered interface. I have no idea if it would work with any other device. This is the same scan tool that Oliver Sholtz (sp?) in Germany developed for his own use. The Fiero Store is now reselling it.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Maybe this belongs in tech, but I don't want to have two separate threads going.

I would have never seen it. I'm so technically challenged, I just don't go there. Shucks, I don't understand half the stuff I read here.
Keep the updates coming!

I'm working on getting those new rotors installed but that's the easy part. I am also replacing the struts and the calipers. Here is the before:

I have a crappy T-40 socket that prevented me from getting the parking brake bracket on so the caliper still isn't mounted.

I thought this was an interesting shot...I always have way more support than I need when I work on a car, and this is just for the back

quote Originally posted by ohioindy: I give up

This post and the one above it made me laugh out loud. Thanks.

jscott1 - great project you've got going there. I love Indys. It's always nice to see one getting a redo.

Andrew

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Proud owner of an 85 coupe with 40k miles

quote Originally posted by jscott1: I have a crappy T-40 socket that prevented me from getting the parking brake bracket on so the caliper still isn't mounted.

After destroying two T-40 sockets I realized something is wrong...checking the archives I find that the emergency brake bracket screws are nearly impossible to remove. Another artifact of steel screws into aluminum calipers, I'm still learning about the 84 to 87 brakes. My 18" breaker bar just twisted the torx like it was butter and still the screws won't move. So it's time to cut the screws off and look for new cap screws to go in the new calipers.

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 05-27-2005).]

i say quad 4 it, indy's need a quad 4

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The unfortunate history of my GT

"Because you're so chocked full of preservatives, they're just preserving you now" - why you shoud eat healthy

[This message has been edited by justa6 (edited 05-27-2005).]

quote Originally posted by justa6: i say quad 4 it, indy's need a quad 4

Thanks for the suggestion, maybe a dual quad 4 (aka Northstar)

Okay tiime for an update....

The Indy is on the road!!!!

It's been at the shop for probably two months and I vowed it was not going to leave until it passed Texas inspection. I found out that is not an easy test to pass. Practically every sensor was replaced, O2, MAP, IAC,TPS, plus the Cat, and a lot of vacuum lines and other things. If someone says a Fiero only needs a few items, don't believe them. It is still running a little rough but my mechanic thinks it will smooth out over time.

Well I got the tag and went for the first official drive. That was exciting even if a little rough. I want to ask all the Muncie guys how you find 1st gear instead of reverse It takes some getting used to.

Now I have a million little things to fix, but another Indy saved from the crusher.

How'd it and your other cars fair Rita?

Luckily Rita had no permanent effect on any of my cars.

I did rescue the Indy from the shop on my trailer, then after the storm I brought it back so they could finish the inspection.

I have no idea how many years this car has been sitting before I bought it but probably somewhere in the 5 to 8 year range. It's had the same gas in it all that time, so I need to run all that old gas out and it should smooth out even more.

Any things I should look for in a car that hasn't been driven in a long time? I forgot to add new clutch and master and slave cylinder to that list so hopefully that shouldn't go bad for a while.

The easiest way to find first IMO is to go to second then first, at least until you get used to the spacing between R-1-3.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: I have no idea how many years this car has been sitting before I bought it but probably somewhere in the 5 to 8 year range. It's had the same gas in it all that time, so I need to run all that old gas out and it should smooth out even more. Any things I should look for in a car that hasn't been driven in a long time? I forgot to add new clutch and master and slave cylinder to that list so hopefully that shouldn't go bad for a while.

Don't forget to change the fuel filter, I'm sure it's nasty. Changing all the other fluids including the trans would be a good idea. Get ready to replace other parts like ignition module, grounds, seals, headlight and window motors, etc. Reviving a car sure takes a lot more than you first imagine. The good news is once you're all done, it'll last another 20+ years, I just hope it won't take me 20+ years to revive mine.

quote Originally posted by Gokart Mozart: Reviving a car sure takes a lot more than you first imagine.

True statement. The previous owner said all it needed was an alternator...yeah right. I have replaced dozens of things to get to this point. The good news is that it's got enough new parts to be good for many years.

thats easy, go buy a new tank...

Drop the old one, take it out to an open area, stick an oily rag in the top and then light it, after the fun is over put the new tank in

How much gas is in the tank? Feel like driving it 200 mles? Fill it up once and then run it til empty and replace the filter a second time would be the easy thing to do. Take a full gas can with you.
Here's a question for the purists: if the tank is coming out, what would think about putting the larger tank in?

[This message has been edited by Gokart Mozart (edited 10-07-2005).]

quote Originally posted by Gokart Mozart: Here's a question for the purists: if the tank is coming out, what would think about putting the larger tank in?

what larger tank?

quote Originally posted by Greg Z: what larger tank?

The 87-88 tank holds a gallon or so more than the 84-86 tank. In the 5 years I've been on this forum it went from being impossible to put the bigger tank on the older cars to being an easy swap with a few changes to the straps.

The fuel filter is relatively cheap I think I'll do the double filter swap before I drop the tank.

New fuel filter installed but I have a host of other little things...

I'm suffering from the bent clutch pedal, I've got disengagement right on the floor.
I've got an oil leak that needs repair, and
for some reason my belt shredded. I think it was the oil leaking on it, let's hope.

But I do have a new thing to add to the car:

Now about those body mods ??? Hehehehe

Bump,...how we coming J ?

quote Originally posted by MDFierolvr: thats easy, go buy a new tank...

Well I was walking by the Indy and decided to fire it up. No Joy. I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking but I can't hear the fuel pump. I'm certain that old gas killed it. Time to drop the tank for sure. And I dont know about the purists, but I would prefer to install the bigger tank while I'm at it. Anybody have a line on an 87-88 fuel tank??

- Jonathan