quote Originally posted by Raydar: In retrospect, I probably could have put 1/2" spacers between my rear cradle mounts and the frame rail, and it would have had plenty of clearance.

A spacer? Like a washer on the rear bolts? I don't think 1/2" there will make 1/2" at the center of the engine but still a good idea. I don't want a scoop. I'll probably grind off the hood and hope to get enough that way.

Look at my 70s style muffler I love how this thing sounds. Much better than the Borla. Probably because the engine and bigger pipes. Everything is ready to go on the road but the car doesn't want to move on reverse. I have a post in Tech seeking help about it. Also my ignition switch is still acting. I'll need to order one.

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: A spacer? Like a washer on the rear bolts? I don't think 1/2" there will make 1/2" at the center of the engine but still a good idea. I don't want a scoop. I'll probably grind off the hood and hope to get enough that way. Look at my 70s style muffler I love how this thing sounds. Much better than the Borla. Probably because the engine and bigger pipes. Everything is ready to go on the road but the car doesn't want to move on reverse. I have a post in Tech seeking help about it. Also my ignition switch is still acting. I'll need to order one.

I was thinking something larger than a washer. Something near the diameter of the pads on the cradle to distribute the load.
1/2" at the rear of the cradle should be ~1/4" at the engine. That probably would have been enough for mine to clear. Barely.
I thought that removing the inner layer of the decklid would provide enough clearance, but it didn't. I ended up with a "star" crack on the outside of the decklid where it was touching.

I like the exhaust with the turndown. I'll bet it's loud as hell in the car.
I was thinking of doing something similar, except continuing the pipe down the right side under the engine, following the stock routing, to a single GT tip on the right side.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: I like the exhaust with the turndown. I'll bet it's loud as hell in the car.

I haven't driven it out of the garage but it doesn't seem that loud. It is of course louder than stock but not as loud as I expected. Maybe I'm comparing it to the V8 which is very loud. Will see.

I like the exhaust setup, I would love to hear it. Any concern of fumes in the passenger area? It seems that when sitting in heavy traffic idling, the fumes might make its way under the car, and into the interior.

I am taking my car to an exhaust shop to have a custom exhaust made next week.

quote Originally posted by topcat: Any concern of fumes in the passenger area? .

Passenger? What passenger? I never have one Yes it is a concern and with the fumes this car puts out a big one. This setup is temporary. Most probable I may take the pipe to the back and have the twin tips. Or maybe a trick side setup. But neither will happen shortly.

Well, I'm back from my trip. I was able to figure out the ignition switch problem but not before ordering a switch I don't need. This car had an ignition cut-off switch added (not by me) in line with some crimp connectors and one was loose. Solved. But I still have the tranny problem that reverse doesn't seem to work. I guess I'll try to drive it in D and then try reverse again. Car hasn't gone out of the garage yet

Some temporary closing on this as it may take long time before you see any duno #s here. More problems came up to add salt to the wound. The new alternator is not charging enough. It puts 13.4V, which is low. No wonder why I still need to recharge the battery after many cranks. I will need to be in a VERY happy mood to take that one out. The transmission still slips in reverse. We kind of isolated it to the reverse boost valve. Don't know if it is pure bad luck but why do I always have tranny problems with my engine swaps With the V8 it was the same. After 400 miles the cradle was back down to put another tranny. Here it seems to go the same route Glad that this is a hobby and not my daily driver or I would be screwed big time. Oh well... If that happens then I'll try to go with a 4t60 as I'm not putting the old one in. Now I just need a big break and forget about all these problems. My daughter will be born in the next three weeks so I'll focus on that. Dyno #s maybe in summer time. Sorry. Anyone wants to buy this car?? Thanks to those watching.

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: My daughter will be born in the next three weeks so I'll focus on that.

Congratulations!! Definitely a nice distraction from car problems.

Come get this 4 speed and put it in. I hate set backs, popped the radiator today on the hot rod so I have to fix that too. I ran so much water in the motor I have a light on it all night to keep it from freezing. Is this still Florida?

Gratz on the baby, I am sure she will bring you much joy and that you will soon forget all about the car.

The Trueleo clears my GT decklid with like 1/2" of space. I know Francis' car is a GT also, and I believe that is what they did most of their mock-up on, if not all of it. So it may in fact be too tall for a notchie and Francis and Troy never realized it.

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: My daughter will be born in the next three weeks so I'll focus on that.

Congratulations on the upcoming birth of your daughter!

quote Anyone wants to buy this car??

Don't say that too loudly. One of us might have to take you up on it.
You know that's one of my favorite Fieros of all time. Right?

All kidding aside... hang in there. It'll come together.
Maybe the seafoam will help loosen everything up.

Did I tell you "Congrats" about your daughter?

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 02-12-2006).]

Thanks all for the congrats

Jake;
I would take that 4 speed if it included all the hw to go from auto to manual I know about those V8 cooling bugs. I blew a radiator hose twice on my way up to TN for the Power Tour. Glad it was in a gas station both times and it was easily accessible at the top

Just resurecting this a little. I installed the O2 bung to connect the WBO2 monitor. PROM will still need a lot of tuning. Car idles bad and takes 10 min to get into closed loop. Need to diagnose that with Winaldl. Still haven't fix trany nor alternator but soon I'll get to that.

bump

Anything new Alex. Hope the baby is well.

Nothing new nor exciting. New born is doing great but now with two childs it is taking me about 90% of my pre-new-born spare time I tried couple PROMS but none seems great but then I haven't had time to try to hard on anyone. I'm focusing now in tunning better the V8 until I can find time to find a 4T60 tranny, etc.. If things goes the same I can see the car being stranded another 3-4 months...

Keeping this alive. 4T60 may come soon. Have something cooking

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: ...Have something cooking

Rut-roh!

Hey Alex, great job on the engine that thing looks good enough to eat out of it. I must know what size rims and tires you have on that yellow car though. I want my car to have a similar stance.
-Roy

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Real Sports cars only have 2 seats....

Matching numbers GT # 17889 of 26,402 made in 1988, 1of 241 yellow GT's
1987 Fiero GT.......Burgundy in color, 74thousand miles.

quote Originally posted by roys88fiero: Hey Alex, great job on the engine that thing looks good enough to eat out of it. I must know what size rims and tires you have on that yellow car though. I want my car to have a similar stance. -Roy

Thanks. Those are Konig Imagine. 18x7.5 35mm all around. Tires are 245-40-18 back and 215-45-18 front I think. I will go to 235 rear and 225 fron on next set.

Light at the end of the tunnel... Finally got a 4t60 to get this car going. Now if you are ever going to ship a trany this IS the way to do it. Look at this crate. Had to remove 38 screws just to get the two panels off to take it out. Just awesome. Big thanks to fellow member 3084me (Brian) who sold me this puppy. He spent over one month trying to get me the cheapest shipping. Awesome guy




No the problem is that the car is in line waiting for garage time. Still need to finish the 6-speed swap on the other car. Oh well.... maybe by Christmas..

Hey Alex,

Didn't anybody tell you, you are supposed to rip only one car apart at a time ?? Hehehehe

Just kidding, congrats on the parts, can't wait to see everything all finished !

Still watching.

You're swapping a 6 speed into the other car? Cool!

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Raydar
88 4.9 Formula IMSA Fasback..........................88 3.4 coupe................................................

Read Nealz Nuze! Praise the Lowered!

Alex: Your swap is really looking good. We both have similiar motors with mods and I'm ( actually Darth) in the process of putting a 4t60 with gr8grip,3.42 and 2600 protorque in. One problem I came across with a 88 cradle and 4t60 is bolt alignment on the rear mount, so I designed this adapter to make it work.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/073436.html
Don't know how well the adapter will work yet, should be about 3 or 4 weeks before I know. We'll have to compare notes on our finished products. Hope to have some dyno numbers too. The last dyno was disappointing 151hp@3100,250tq@2500 at the wheels but my timing was off by 20 degrees,I found this out afterwards. My next up grade will be direct port nitrous injection, some time next year. Should look awsome on a trueleo intake. Keep us posted on your progress. Good luck

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85 GT 3.4
Auto 3.08
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60"

Thanks Lilchief. I got the trany but I haven't even looked at any details for the swap. I bookmarked your thread as I know I will need it later. Not many of these swaps are on 88 cars. I will have a spare of Rodney mouns too so I'll be using them too. Also I have a NX kit to bump the power later on I'll keep a look at your build.

Steve; Yes a 6 speed plus a bunch of upgrades for the SBC are coming. Soon I'll open up a refresh build thread. Stay tuned

Here is the slush box. I placed it next to the TH125 and the width dimensions look almost identical. I wonder why we need different axles for this one.

[This message has been edited by Alex4mula (edited 10-01-2006).]

What is the FDR?
I was considering doing one of those before I decided to swap in a Getrag instead.
With a bit of juggling of gearset and sprocket ratios, I believe you can end up with a 3.73(?) or a 3.42.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: What is the FDR? I was considering doing one of those before I decided to swap in a Getrag instead. With a bit of juggling of gearset and sprocket ratios, I believe you can end up with a 3.73(?) or a 3.42.

I was told 3.33.

Not for sure about the difference between FDR ( final drive ratio) and ODR ( overall drive ratio) but there is a difference. I know that with my 33/37 chain sprockets and 34 tooth sun gear I have a 3.42 gear ratio in third gear and in fourth it changes to a 2.39. Now with a 30 tooth sun gear ( same as 3.33) and a 33/37 chain sprocket you will have a 3.73 in third gear and in fourth you will have a 2.61 gear ratio. If you use the 35/35 chain sprocket and 30 tooth sun gear you get 3.33 in third and 2.33 in fourth. Don't know if this helps but I tried. In my opinion a 3.42 is good for a 3.4 running any kind of boost, turbo or nitrous and a 3.73 is good for n/a 3.4. This is in a drag racing aspect with a good breathing motor and fourth would be for cruising.

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85 GT 3.4
Auto 3.08
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60"

quote Originally posted by Lilchief: Not for sure about the difference between FDR ( final drive ratio) and ODR ( overall drive ratio) but there is a difference. I know that with my 33/37 chain sprockets and 34 tooth sun gear I have a 3.42 gear ratio in third gear and in fourth it changes to a 2.39. Now with a 30 tooth sun gear ( same as 3.33) and a 33/37 chain sprocket you will have a 3.73 in third gear and in fourth you will have a 2.61 gear ratio. If you use the 35/35 chain sprocket and 30 tooth sun gear you get 3.33 in third and 2.33 in fourth. Don't know if this helps but I tried. In my opinion a 3.42 is good for a 3.4 running any kind of boost, turbo or nitrous and a 3.73 is good for n/a 3.4. This is in a drag racing aspect with a good breathing motor and fourth would be for cruising.

Final drive ratio is the last drive ratio, sometimes called an axle ratio (as far as I know). It's the number you hear when someone says I have 3.73 or 4.10 gears, etc.

Overall ratio is when you take the INDIVIDUAL gear ratio's and multiply them by the final drive. That's the numbers you were quoting when you said that your 4th gear was a 2.61 or a 2.33.

While we're on the subject, your third gear is a 1.0 ratio individual gear, so when you multiply it by the final drive that's where you're getting your 3.42 or 3.73 ratio. Or in other words, whatever your OVERALL ratio is in third, it will be your final drive as well (since 1.0 times 3.73 is 3.73) hopefully that makes sense.

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96 Saturn SL2 Turbo (evil SL2)

My cardomain site: cardomain.com/memberpage/702872
T3 60 trim + 4 PSI + crappy tires = 14.47 @ 99 MPH and 31 MPG

Thanks for the clarification, guys.
It gets confusing.

quote Originally posted by Lilchief: Now with a 30 tooth sun gear (same as 3.33) and a 33/37 chain sprocket you will have a 3.73 in third gear and in fourth you will have a 2.61 gear ratio. ...a 3.73 is good for n/a 3.4. This is in a drag racing aspect with a good breathing motor and fourth would be for cruising.

This is exactly what I was planning to do. Good low end for hole shots, good fuel mileage and low RPM for cruising.
Then I found a good deal on my Getrag.

One bump for this one before Christmas so it doesn't die on me. Up to now it seem I may not be able to hit this one until late February. Good thing is we will have very cool days by then

Still down.

bump

Uh thanks. My own today. Can't get the garage empty to start this. Have already put the car in twice just to take it out again for other project. Still have my SUV that needs A/C service so maybe another 1-2 weeks

I'm commited to complete this before December...

Wow. Time moves fast. If I don't finish thi car by the end of this year I will need to sell it

Ok. After 2 years and 2 months finally the car is in for the 4t60 swap and hopefully to be completed before summer Does anyone knows what year cars I can use the 4t60 brackets? I don't have those. Can I modify the TH125 ones? I have a welder so I can build some.

So time to revive this thread for good and finish it. Car is on the ground again I put all the details of the 4t60 swap in a detailed thread here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/091777.html

Now I still I have my old issues with the engine. After it gets hot it kind of chokes and misfires between 2200rpm and 3500rpm and then if it dies it cranks super slow or doesn't crank at all. That starter was fine before. I don't think the bigger cam and intake will make that big of a difference on the current tune to cause that.
Today I checked the TPS and MAP sensors and readings (voltage sweep) were ok. What I found was that the vacuum line that gives signal to both, the MAP and the FPR had a leak at the FPR end which still screws up the whole line Both key sensors for timing and fuel so I'm willing to bet that my problem all the time has been that. I just sealed the end that was bad and will test soon again. Hopefully it is the culprit and I can start driving this thing soon, tune and dyno

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: ...the vacuum line that gives signal to both, the MAP and the FPR had a leak at the FPR end which still screws up the whole line Both key sensors for timing and fuel so I'm willing to bet that my problem all the time has been that. I just sealed the end that was bad and will test soon again. Hopefully it is the culprit and I can start driving this thing soon, tune and dyno

I had a leak in the same "circuit", only mine was where the tee slips on to the manifold port, and at the FPR.
Caused a huge "bog" at 3500 RPM, among other things. Once it was fixed, the difference was amazing.

Good luck getting one of my favorite Fieros back on the road.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 05-22-2008).]