I'm afraid to use a roller. Any pointers? I spray painted my bike a while back with rustoleum and it worked pretty good. Only problem I had is that rocks started to eat up the paint on the front of the bike down to the primer =( Is this because I used spray on primer? They were matching brands rustoleum

What did I do wrong????

If i'm going to do this to my car I want to make sure rocks wont eat it up =(





You can see the rock chips on the front. It got worse though.

[This message has been edited by arte444 (edited 01-09-2009).]

my friends wife painted her car with a paint roller once way back when she was young and coulnt afford paint.
she used a regular old paint roller and house paint. just painter up. the husband said there was a pretty interesting texture.
so i thought it be kinda weird to roll on paint.
but after reading this. i wanna do it! and it be under $100!
im getting excited! maybe once spring arrives i will try this out
i put this under favorites
how do you think Red will turn out?
my car is red at the moment. but im kinda thinking of putting a new color.
what about royal blue? iv always wanted a blue car.
i really like that orange thats posted up here. hmmm.
what about black? like a flat black and polish it up? make it a gloss black? will that work? im woundering if it will fade tho..

Wow.... My best friend has a 1991 Impulse RS tha he was planning to paint with a roller after he say it done on one of the speed channels... I laughed him out the house! Now I may have to eat a little crow!

Good job... I would probably spray mine but good job my man!

ive rolled on paint and in fact a current car a my friend has that i painted for him came out really good and has a nice mirror reflection you really have to look hard for imperfections and so far has held up really good. i prefer this method over spray paint because in my experience spray paint doesnt hold up and does exactly what the previous poster has, where the rocks chip up the paint. as far as the chipping paint id say if you had a good amount of primer down and you sanded the primer so the paint would stick then you should be alright. my guess is and just from my experience either the primer wasent sanded and you painted over it or you put to heavy of coats without wet sanding in between.rolling paint on dident bother me it was the wet sanding that is the bare of the job make sure you cover up the areas that you dont want painted and prep your car like you would any other job and got to town. wouldn't recommend to do this on a newer car but if you have an older car or daily driver its a good alternative.

how do you know this?!?!? haha
i could just paint my car red. its red already.

quote Originally posted by joshh44: how do you know this?!?!? haha i could just paint my car red. its red already.

i painted my car yellow even after 8 coats a little of the black would show through but after a few more coats it came out really good. the nice thing about it is you have room for error. make sure that any imperfections no matter how small are worked out before you apply more paint because if you ignore it,it will show in the final result and when it comes to polishing the paint it really comes out really nice. i have more time in this paintjob then what it would have been to take it and paint it at a shop but i also saved a lot. you'll get better results if you spray but i dident have the option at the time both shops were overflowing with stuff. as far as my car when documenting the cars rundown on where the car was found out through a few members that he was part of a car club here in ohio and was banned from stealing from other members and even screwed some members here. word got around to me about other things needless to say he isnt around.

[This message has been edited by 86stealthfiero (edited 01-11-2009).]

Are you able to clear the rustoleum oil-based paint? Because any type of brake cleaner,etc. would eat at it much quicker than typical paint.

Im looking at doing this soon and I'd like it to be durable.

Also, how long can paint like this be stored? Years? Months? Id like to buy some extra if something was ever discontinued or I had to repaint something.

the paint already has clear in it. i did clear coat a practice panel and there really wasent much difference. with enough coats you will have enough to buff out the paint to look good. as far as storage ive stored the paint for quite along time if you decide to make sure it is in a sealed can like an extra paintcan dont store it in a plastic container.

Well I started doing 2 extra panels I had to see how well this worked...

But how do I keep the paint from not running?!?!? Im doing them so they are on a bench as soon as I would move it starts running like there is no tomorrow. Ive also noticed that you can see where the paint was thicker and slightly heavier even after wet sanding and putting more coats on.

Tips, Advice? I'd like to do this but not if my floor is going to have more paint on it than the car.

I did do a 50/50 mineral spirts and paint mix, should I thicken that up?

i used a mixture of 200ml of paint to 20 ml of mineral spirits. the key is thin because the thicker the paint is applied the longer it takes to dry and less chance of orange peel. you definetly want to cover up your rims with an old sheet etc. i found that the 50/50 mix was a bit runny but ive don this a few times and the worst part is that there is alot of sanding so if you apply the paint thin less sand work i found even though the mix ratio i used is on a smaller scale it doesnt run and you dont have to babysit the car. for the most part the paint levels it self out if it doesnt use the weight of the roller to smooth them out. ive also sprayed cars with this paint with good results.

oh as far as the heaver paint issue you really need to sand that out if not it will show in the final finish id start out with 220 and work my way up i ended up going up to 2000 grit and when painting use the weight of the roller if you press real hard on the roller you create unevenness ans eventually causes what looks like lines in the paint. if you dont cure any imperfections at this point they will surely show in the end and you will end up creating more work for yourself.

[This message has been edited by 86stealthfiero (edited 01-12-2009).]

Well this my first time ever attempting painting so I have no idea how long to sand for or the roughness or so. I tried painting on a black and red panel. The red one I sanded using the heavy grit to about a 500 grit and it was smooth but the scratches you could see, it was a faint pink look with some of the corners when right to the black of the panel.


Im also trying to speed the drying process up. Its not feasible to do it on the car but seems to be working on these practice panels. The room I am doing them in is only about 55-60F so I am heating the panels up to about 120F and it seems to be drying quickly, within an hour or so (besides the heavy areas) I am waiting about 90 minutes between paint/wetsand sessions. I'll post the pics up later.

black and red are the hardest my car was black and after about coat 6 it started to fade. be carefull the paint can fool you if the paint is still tacky leave the panel be and here is why what happens when you paint over paint that hasn't fully cured you end up either picking the paint back off the panel and creating unevenness or you trap the underlying paint from drying. the quickest dry time i have had is about 3 to 5 hrs in 50 degree garage. i let the layer dry so when i apply the next coat it fills in the low spots and evens out the flow of paint. as far as the scratches they will fill in after you apply more coats(when wet sanding a use hot water and dish soap) that way the paper doesnt clog.

I wonder if Lowes or Home Depot can color-match using Rustoleum paint? If so, I may just bring in a sample of Corvette Millennium Yellow.

actually i think they can dont hold me to it though. ive been getting my paint at home depot.

I don't think they can mix the Rustoleum. But you can check with the Glidden (and it may be Lowes instead of Home Depot). Glidden makes an alkyd paint that is the same as Rustoleum. As far as I know, they can custom mix the Glidden into any color you want. I wish I would have gone this route. I used Rustoleum on my car, and while I love the color, there is another color I would have preferred.







https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/073445.html


Also, if you're ambitious, you can always mix the Rustoleum yourself! Might take a little trial and error.

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Spent my days with a woman unkind Smoked my stuff and drank all my wine...

What color red is that?

I think im set on doing a white/red two-tone, not sure what white I would use but the red I am thinking Sunburst red from the rustoleum line.

im guessing safety red or carnival red i ll post some pics here in a few of my last coat . i still need to polish mine even though you really dont have to. sad thin is ive got alot of time in this and ive been way too picky.

[This message has been edited by 86stealthfiero (edited 01-12-2009).]

The white turned out bad and got worse so I stopped that. The bottom red is what I painted, it has about 5 coats on it so far and looks pretty good/



I still am getting the 'hilly lines' but I only have here 1000grit so im sure with a few more sanding/painting sets it will look better.

im intrested to see what your paint scheme will be. the hillyness is normal it goes away after you wetsand in betwen each coat.

Im not using a roller either just the foam brushes since the area I am doing is much smaller, also how many times do you go over an area? I was trying to do a single streak and that seemed pretty good.

total car has 14 layers to add depth to the paint. paint looks alot better in person. i could get away with no buffing but i know it will shine better if i do

[This message has been edited by 86stealthfiero (edited 01-12-2009).]

Think this process would work with actual automotive paint, if you used the right thinner?

How well do you think this would work out with a panel off painting job? Consistency????

what i did was i removed the rear bumper,side skirts,hood and decklid and painted them at the same time keeping track of my coats of paint and wet sanding. 14 coats may be excessive but painting a black car with a lighter color results in more coats. it was easier to paint with the bigger harder parts first besides i had room so i went ahead and painted these the hardest part is the wetsanding (you will build some muscle out of this) its crucial that you let the paint fully cure before you wet sand if not it comes right back up and the you have a blocthy look to your paint but after 1000 grit i went back over with 2000 and have a very smooth finish. as far as buffing i used rubbing compound to smooth out any orange peel that would have remained (you'll get most of this with your wet sanding) i stuck with 1000 most of the time only going back to 800 if i absolutly had too and after you final wetsand buff and polish.im takeing longer on this procedure just to really see how far you can go with the paint.

quote Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98: What color red is that? I think im set on doing a white/red two-tone, not sure what white I would use but the red I am thinking Sunburst red from the rustoleum line.

It's...Sunshine Red. I stared with Carnival Red, as it was as close as could be to the paint chip I wanted. When it got on the car, it was awful, very pink. When you see it next to the Sunshine red, it's even more pink. Think birthday cake frosting pink. :vomit

Another thing: I see a lot of writing about a lot of coats. I got by with only three coats. Also, contrary to the Moparts forum advice, I mixed mine heavier than they did. I ran with a 10:1 paint to thinner ratio. Any more than this, and the coverage was crappy and the runs were not manageable. The paint still dried within 8 hours. I basically did one coat a day. And I didn't sand until after I was done with the third coat. There was one section, post wet sanding, I wasn't really thrilled with. So I recovered it. But that was it.

Right now, it's too darn cold to finish the wet sanding. So I'm going to wait until Spring. The areas I have wet sanded and compounded look very nice. In the meantime, I'm driving the car. As for durability, I've now got 4000 salt / sleet / semi rock throwing miles on it, and the paint is holding up beautifully.

Not bad for $70!

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Spent my days with a woman unkind Smoked my stuff and drank all my wine...

[This message has been edited by joeveto (edited 01-12-2009).]

quote Originally posted by joeveto: It's...Sunshine Red. I stared with Carnival Red, as it was as close as could be to the paint chip I wanted. When it got on the car, it was awful, very pink. When you see it next to the Sunshine red, it's even more pink. Think birthday cake frosting pink. :vomit Another thing: I see a lot of writing about a lot of coats. I got by with only three coats. Also, contrary to the Moparts forum advice, I mixed mine heavier than they did. I ran with a 10:1 paint to thinner ratio. Any more than this, and the coverage was crappy and the runs were not manageable. The paint still dried within 8 hours. I basically did one coat a day. And I didn't sand until after I was done with the third coat. There was one section, post wet sanding, I wasn't really thrilled with. So I recovered it. But that was it. Right now, it's too darn cold to finish the wet sanding. So I'm going to wait until Spring. The areas I have wet sanded and compounded look very nice. In the meantime, I'm driving the car. As for durability, I've now got 4000 salt / sleet / semi rock throwing miles on it, and the paint is holding up beautifully. Not bad for $70!

Thats some good inspiration...

Anyways..
I started :-D





Im just doing the rear panel, and door all lower than the trim. Hopefully I dont F it up! I have 2 other guys giving me a hand. This section when by quick, and with no probs. I will be sitting on it for at least a few hours to make sure its the color/paint style I want before I hit it again.

Thanks I'll keep posting progress.

I wonder if Lowes or Home Depot can color-match using Rustoleum paint? If so, I may just bring in a sample of Corvette Millennium Yellow.
[/QUOTE]

I don't think they can mix the Rustoleum. But you can check with the Glidden (and it may be Lowes instead of Home Depot). Glidden makes an alkyd paint that is the same as Rustoleum. As far as I know, they can custom mix the Glidden into any color you want. I wish I would have gone this route. I used Rustoleum on my car, and while I love the color, there is another color I would have preferred


home depot has a scanner and can scan a paint sample and tint the paint for you, just no metalics. but yes basically u can get it in a custom color.

ive found that they thicker the paint is applied the worse it is to sand any imperfections thus the reason for thin coats so if you do have a panel that has a drip that's thick it is manageable. you really wont see full coverage till the 4th coat but i guess this really only applies if your changing the color.

quote Originally posted by 86stealthfiero: ive found that they thicker the paint is applied the worse it is to sand any imperfections thus the reason for thin coats so if you do have a panel that has a drip that's thick it is manageable. you really wont see full coverage till the 4th coat but i guess this really only applies if your changing the color.

I had a few drips that were manageable. They sanded right out. There was one on my passenger side front fender that was out of control. I'm not sure what the heck I was thinking when I laid it down. So I sanded it out and repainted the fender. It looks good now.

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Spent my days with a woman unkind Smoked my stuff and drank all my wine...

So what rollers did you guys use? I see the 'white' ones at wal-mart. Anything I should be looking for? So what should I be doing for the mix 10/90paint? I dont think I want to do 50/50....


For now, all I have to do is sand the rear bumper down, and then wait for the temp to get up a bit. I didnt plan on having to heat when temps are below zero! .

use the 4 inch rollers the high density foam ones after you open the package check the m for dust bunnies ive found a few like that. after your done painting just load up the roller with paint and store in a plastic Ziploc bag. the original thread came from moparts forum. my 50/50 mix goes on fine with out any problem if its runny you can always apply more paint.you should have the consistancy of milk or just a bit thicker than water and when ypu apply the paint you should see the bubbles disappear almost instantly and after about a minute or so it will level out after that check to see if you have any bubbles left if so use the weight of the roller to level them out.

[This message has been edited by 86stealthfiero (edited 01-15-2009).]

quote Originally posted by 86stealthfiero: use the 4 inch rollers the high density foam ones after you open the package check the m for dust bunnies ive found a few like that. after your done painting just load up the roller with paint and store in a plastic Ziploc bag. the original thread came from moparts forum. my 50/50 mix goes on fine with out any problem if its runny you can always apply more paint.you should have the consistancy of milk or just a bit thicker than water and when ypu apply the paint you should see the bubbles disappear almost instantly and after about a minute or so it will level out after that check to see if you have any bubbles left if so use the weight of the roller to level them out.

Thanks for the info! Just waiting for it to get to double digits lol

no problem always here to help.

quote Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98: So what rollers did you guys use? I see the 'white' ones at wal-mart. Anything I should be looking for? So what should I be doing for the mix 10/90paint? I dont think I want to do 50/50.... For now, all I have to do is sand the rear bumper down, and then wait for the temp to get up a bit. I didnt plan on having to heat when temps are below zero! .

Honestly, I'd experiment a bit with the mix. The 10:1 worked for me. But my garage (and climate) may be different from yours. Ambient temperature was in the high 30's to low 40's. You may find the 10:1 works for you. You may find it doesn't. The beautiful part about this process, among many, is that it is a bit experimental, and it's not a once and out venture. If it's not working, adjust and move on. It all comes out in the wash.

Truly, I was apprehensive, but the process is so much easier than words can describe. Give it a shot, you'll be fine.

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Spent my days with a woman unkind Smoked my stuff and drank all my wine...

TIP for getting rid of overspray on black rubber.

If you don't like scrubbing with harsh things to try and get it off, get some black "dye" in a can, spray it into the lid and use a tiny brush to apply it to the paint spots on your black rubber areas. It blends in very nice.

anyways heres a closeup of the headlight cover i did overall im satisfied with it. onl problem im haveing is still getting the dullness out of the cover (say when you looking down on it) iv done some searching and ive read every page of the original thread and this was the result and probably the closest detailed shot i can give

Ummm. Is that a polka dotted breast or buttock?

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Spent my days with a woman unkind Smoked my stuff and drank all my wine...

lol as funny as that would be no it is a blanket.