Thats very similar concept to my bracket. The difference being I used a single piece of steel coutoured to fit and added a spacer. The right bolt then comes in from the back side of the tensioner into the hole in the bracket which is tapped.

I like this type of design. Takes up little space and works very well.

Have you put a square on the backside of the tensioner yet to check allignment with the alternator? Just curious.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 03-04-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: Have you put a square on the backside of the tensioner yet to check allignment with the alternator? Just curious.

No I am not sure I know what you mean. Can you pake us a picture and post it for us all?

Sure. Got home late tonight, its too dark, and I'm too tired to pull the fiero in tonight. It was a 15 hour day. I'll get one tomorrow morning for you. Basically just put a square between the backside of the tensioner and the alternator bracket. Probably no need but I'm overly cautious because I HATE belt squeal. I'll post in the morning.

EDIT: Almost forgot. Hehe Albino seahorses....
You should have 5 nuns. Later Joe.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 03-05-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: Hehe Albino seahorses.... You should have 5 nuns. Later Joe.

Got um

Joe

Thanks Joe for the pics and measurements - I will be building a bracket in the AM. Got the old duke out today so I'm gearing up for stuffin the 4.9 in next weekend.

Pat

Oops. Sorry for yet another delay Joe.

My fiance decided she needed to kidnap me yesterday morning. I tried to resist but she forced me to take her on a long drive in the 4.9 through the twisties. Keeping with my luck with this car the clutch master failed on the way back. We managed to make it back and I removed the old master and took it back to Autozone for a replacement. Anyways, here is the pic. Sorry its blurry, the camera died after I got this pic before I could get a better one...



You get the idea...

Ordered a new adjustable lateral link from Rockauto for a dog bone brace between the head and the cradle. Picture lifted from 'fieroguru'. 1990 Nissan Maxima 3.0


Removed the two nasty gray sun visors for recovering with tan fabric. Neighbors brother in Houston is gonna do them for $25.00, my fabric. I had purchased enough to do the headboard and the visors.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-12-2010).]

Built and installed the heat shield that will be between the water pump inlet, AC hoses and the exhaust manifold. I built it from cereal box cardboard first
,
then drew it on metal before I cut it out.

Cleaned it up and sprayed engine enamel on the new heat shield, mounted it on the engine:


Katerak sent me three more of the long studded valve cover bolts. These cost over $17.00 a piece at the GM deallership down the road. Painted them silver and put them on the engine. I had a few extra wire separators and used them to tidy up my plug wires. Now both sides of the engine look like this:

mmmm. Honey Nut Cheerios.

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: mmmm. Honey Nut Cheerios.

Wife, eveeeery day of the week. I'm a B & E man myself.

I have got a lot of little time consuming things done these last two beautiful Texas spring days.

Painted Ashtray doors and windshield wiper arms.

Moved trunk torsion spring back one hole

Adjusted exhaust crossover pipe back to where it was supposed to be

Replaced the small section of 3/4" heater return line underneath the car that was mushy.

Added horn button spring thingie so the horn will work.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-15-2010).]

I have been attempting to get the shifter to move the transmission shift arm and get it to where the two align up correctly. When Neutral and Overdrive are correct, I can't get the shifter in park. So my shifter plate or the transmission shifter arm is not the correct size. I am not sure what is the problem. It looks like I might be able to file the 'Gate" where the shifter can lock into Park. I figure if I have Park, Reverse, neutral and Overdrive I can be happy.

On a sad note I had purchased a 4T60 and 4T60E transmission shifter bracket and arm from FieroAddiction in February. Today is March 19th. This "Sucks" big time. Ain't heard a peep from Rockcrawl. I guess I"ll have to try to recover from PayPal. I am gonna wait exactly 30 days before I request a refund from them. If he isn't gonna ship things he has for sale, he shouldn't sell them, I paifd extra for two day shipping.

I got my 1990 Nissan Maxima lateral link in the mail yesterday from RockAuto.Com. I will have it on the engine, and mounted to the cradle pretty quick. I had a friend make me a bushing on his lathe to adapt the 14mm hole to the 10mm bolt that threads into the head. I'll get a photo posted up after I get it all mounted and welded onto the cradle.

Another beautiful day here in Texas

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-19-2010).]

Every little thing you get done adds up Joe. We sat down the other day and made a "punch" list of what we had left to do. It looks overwhelming but in the last few days we have whittled it down. Still a lot to do though. Looking good.

Pat

I have made a punch out list of things to do before I put the cradle and the engine back in the car. I don't want to put it back in and discover I should have done something before hand. I am off work Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, so I am looking to get a few things done then.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-22-2010).]

Everytime I think I'm ready for the next step, I find something that needs to be done. I can't do anything without a list anymore. If I had all the parts I needed and about 7 days, I think I could finish this project of mine.

Pat

Another beautiful Texas day here. Worked out in the garage on several projects today. There are many little thing that I needed to do such as replacing the black plastic harness covering on a few places and soldering wires that were patched with butt crimp connectors. The 4 wires that went to the deck lid release solenoid were buggered up. I used some of the correct colored wire to make these repairs. I need to rearrange the brake booster vacuum line and its hardware so the exhaust manifold of the 4.9 doesn't roast it.

I played with the shift cable bracket and the cables today some more. That stuff is screwed up big time. The transmission arm moves so much between "park' and 'neutral', and the shifter moves an unequal amount. Still no word from FieroAddiction about the bracket and arm I purchased form him with two day shipping in February. I saw where West Coast Fiero sells a bracket that converts the thing so the shifter arm isn't underneath the exhaust pipe. $120.00, a little bit high, but maybe it will be necessaary to get this thing going back in the car.

I want to have the body ready for the re install of the engine and cradle by the end of the day tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-24-2010).]

Worked on the rear cradle bolt hole that the nut was mission from today. I got a new nut welded on a piece of metal so I can thread the cradle bolt into the frame now. I will paint the rear firewall with some semi gloss black tomorrow. The car is ready for the engine and cradle afterwords.

Anybody have any suggestions for insulating the firewall from the engine heat? I am gonna put the 'Peal & Stick' from Lowe's on the inside of the firewall.

Depends entirely on what you want to spend and what you are looking to do. Sound deadening, heat control, combination of both, paint on, stick on, engine bay only, interior also.

For the enginebay firewall I've had very good luck with this type of stuff...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jc...ge/G_12966G_CL_1.jpg
1/2" Acoustical Foam. Blocks sound and heat quite well. Peal and stick install, relatively cheap, and one 32x54 sheet will do the entire firewall. Also gives the engine bay a nice clean look...


For the cabin I used Dynomat Xtreme. The bulk pack (part # 10455) will do almost the entire floorpan from rear window to pedals. You need approx 40sqft not counting the doors, roof, and under the dash. Its reasonably priced when you do NOT order factory direct or from Summitracing.com.
http://www.google.com/produ...0455&hl=en&scoring=p

Lots of other choices out there also. These worked well for me.

EDIT: Almost forgot. If your in need of a firewall pattern they can be found here...
http://www.fierosails.com/heatshield.html
Its not necissary but does make things a bit easier. I only used it the first time. I just cut as I go now.

For cleanup prior to useing grab yourself a couple cans of Brake Parts Cleaner. Use that and a roll of papertowels. Leaves no residue and wont touch the firewall paint. Quick, efficient, and cheap.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 03-26-2010).]

I went to the J C Whitney site to get some of this, it said:

"Note: Due to temperature variations this product is not to be used in the engine compartment…product will melt at 200°."

To bad, as this stuff looked good!

I didn't buy from Jcwhitney. It was just the best pic I could find at that time and a good example of what I'm using.

I got mine from westcoastfiero.com...
http://www.westcoastfiero.c...specialty_items.html
I wouldn't recommend getting it from them though. Once I got it I realized it was identical to what you can find for less then 50 delivered. I got the uncut stuff.

I've never had any heat related issued with it. I also retained the factory heat shield that goes on the firewall. This probably helps. I had a fuel pump connector melt at one point so I know it gets hot there. The insulation was un-effected even through several 2 hour drives in 100+ degree weather. Its funny how some places will tell you it won't work while others recommend it.

I just ordered some from J C Whitney Co

I added my 'WheelSkin' to the steering wheel today. Came out looking real nice. Has a real soft feel to it:


Ordered the AC hose adapters stuff this morning. $83.00 more in the kitty.
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 03-29-2010).]

One down , one to go:

quote Originally posted by josef644: Just a tip for everybody. I purchased two seat mechanism covers from The Fiero Store. They were the defects that needed drilling and spraying tan from the gray, to match my tan interior. I purchased this product at AutoZone: In the image you can see the old broken cover beside the can. The left end has the spray on it . It appears to be the same exact color as the original was. The rear label on the can: And a pic of the cover in the light with no shadow: Ya can't ask to get a better color match than this. Joe

Hey Joe,

I used that same brand for my dash, door pannels and center console on my V8 Coupe. I liked the way it covered and it looks great once dry. Steering wheel and the seat looks great. Where did you get the steering wheel cover?

Pat

quote Originally posted by katatak: Hey Joe, I used that same brand for my dash, door pannels and center console on my V8 Coupe. I liked the way it covered and it looks great once dry. Steering wheel and the seat looks great. Where did you get the steering wheel cover? Pat

WheelSkins are all over the place on E Bay. I think I paid $27.?? + shipping. It was real easy to put on the steering wheel. I removed it from the car and did it in the house watching TV

I finished these this afternoon. Wasn't to bad at all. A well designed upholstery kit from Mr Mike:

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-02-2010).]

Looks great Joe. I love those Mr. Mike's!

I got these in the mail yesterday:

They are the items I need to make up the AC hoses for my swap. I order two different hose ends today with a 45* bend in them. As these are mounted on my compressor, the AC hoses will be rubbing up against the end of the starter. If the larger one of the two was on the inside port it would not even work. I think the 45* bend will solve this problem. We'll know soon.

Part #14108A (# 8 fitting to #8 Hose) 1 $3.49 $3.49

Part #15512A (#10 Fitting to #12 Hose) 1 $4.64 $4.64

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-07-2010).]

I was able to get the shifter and the transmission shift am to work together correctly yesterday. Man I was sweating that one. I ordered the firewall pattern from Fiero Sails yesterday. I guess It was a good thig that FieroAddiction feiled to send my purcahsed or I wouldn't know how to do this by myself. I will install the insulation on the firewall, then the engine will be ready to go back in the car.

I assembled the seat bottoms to the backs yesterday. They are ready to go back in the car now.

Later

Joe

Ein Bier Bitte?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-10-2010).]

Made this today.


I was gonna try to get this in the car tomorrow, but alas, the evil gremlins are at my house for several days now. Lawnmower fell off of the trailer today. The chain anchor rusted out during the winter. Mower was in pretty good shape after the fall, until a 18 wheeler kissed the rear end of it. !8 wheeler 1, mower 0. He wasn't even mad. Had a big smile on his face.

I went around all the the edges with aluminum tape to sort of weather proof it. The aluminum tape was $8.00 at Lowe's. I put it in the car this afternoon. I cut it in three pieces. I used the heavy duty adhesive spray to hold it on the metal. Left of center, right of center , and to the left side of the battery support. I don't know if I could have used the spray adhesive and put it in in one piece. Been dreading this big time.


Ein Bier Bitte?

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-19-2010).]

AC ompressor clutch electrical connector came in today, along with the two 45* bends hose ends. Nothing done on the Coupe today.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-21-2010).]

Hey Joe,

Question on the AC block and hose ends. Are you planning on running straight hose from the compressor to the block on the drivers side - not using mufflers on the lines? I need to tackle this in the next week or so.

The firewall insulation looks good. I need to do this too - should be easier now that I have the template! Thanks again for that! I'll send it back by Friday.

Pat

quote Originally posted by josef644: They are the items I need to make up the AC hoses for my swap. I order two different hose ends today with a 45* bend in them. As these are mounted on my compressor, the AC hoses will be rubbing up against the end of the starter. If the larger one of the two was on the inside port it would not even work. I think the 45* bend will solve this problem. We'll know soon. Part #14108A (# 8 fitting to #8 Hose) 1 $3.49 $3.49 Part #15512A (#10 Fitting to #12 Hose) 1 $4.64 $4.64

Mind if I ask where it was that you got these from?

Thanks

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: Mind if I ask where it was that you got these from? Thanks

I got them from here http://www.acsource.com/

I'll post a picture of them on the compressor later today. I have lots of mowing to do today.

Pat I am not planning on using a muffler. Might have to plan on adding one latere. We'll just have to see how it works without it.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-21-2010).]

quote Originally posted by josef644: I got them from here http://www.acsource.com/ I'll post a picture of them on the compressor later today. I have lots of mowing to do today. Pat I am not planning on using a muffler. Might have to plan on adding one latere. We'll just have to see how it works without it.

Very good Joe. I'm plnning to go the same direction.

Pat

Here it is against the compressor. They are both on there, just can't see them both:


An a side by side shot. There is plenty of room away from the starter. The straight ones would put the hoses against it.


From below:

Very nice Joe. I am following your lead........

Pat