quote Originally posted by rjblaze: Will, do you know the distance between the centerline of the caliper bolt holes (verticle line between them) and the inner curve you machined to clear the hub? Thanks

I don't know it right off and I haven't been able to find my AutoCAD CD since the last time I loaded my OS.

quote Originally posted by BrewCheese: Hmm..wonder where my brackets are. I cant wait to get workin on em! Thanks for your input on rotors and calipers. Jason

You didn't get them yet? I can't believe it is taking so long. They were sent out last saturday morning. Several guys got them wednesday and thursday. Sorry it's taking so long.

Okay... I am done and took it around the block for a quick test.

First the backets are a quality product no probleMs wih this transaction at all.

The front calipers went on so easy so I had to run into some sort of difficulty, right? The rear was not as easy as the fronts. The rear inboard brake pad needs to be trimmed on the corner to clear the spindle (as indicated early on in this thread). Sounds easy enough, and if I had a high speed grinder it would have been real easy. I had to make due with a hack saw and metal file. It was slow going, and it took several try outs before I got them trimmed enough to fit. That took more time than I had hoped. So I get them on then I realized that I had to pull the rear clipers off in order to bleed them since the bleeder port is on the bottom... so off they came. I got them bled, went to try the brakes and the pedal went right to the floor. After pulling them off and bleeding them again, I had the same problem. My junkyard M/C was bad... so off to autozone for a replacement. It took all of 10 minutes to swap the M/C out. I bench bled it got the lines hooked up, pulled the rear calipers again to bleed them, put them back on and the right rear caliper bolt decided to strip its threads.

Off to Autozone again for a new caliper bolt/pin. Got them back on and then the parking brake refused to adjust enough to engage so I futzed around with the cables, parking brake levers, and calipers for another two hours. I got enough parking brake to hold the car on a small incline but nothing like what they should be. I will fart around with them later.

Put the wheels back on, and took it for a ride. First impressions are that I need to bleed the brakes more. I was solo today, so I used a vacuum pump that was leaking around the bleeder ports so I do not think I got a good bleed on the rears. The pedal is not as firm as I think it should be. However if I jump on the brakes the car stops very very fast.. I did not try to lock them up since I need to break the new pads in but there is no doubt in my mind the car will lock all four in a pinch. They are more responsive than the stock brakes... even with the rears having what I suspect as air in them.

Overall I am very pleased, they look great, stop great and this modification was very easy on the wallet. The only thing I do not like is having the bleeder port on the bottom. But I can live with that,

[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 11-11-2006).]

quote Originally posted by topcat: Overall I am very pleased, they look great, stop great and this modification was very easy on the wallet. The only thing I do not like is having the bleeder port on the bottom. But I can live with that,

I thought that with the info in the post, it took care of the "bleeder on the bottom" issue?

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: yeah bleeders are on the bottom - I pulled the calipers off to bleed them, been thinking of a way to drill and tap for a new bleeder up top. i made -3 based on some measurements I took off my modified break pads - it "should" fit but i can't guarantee it as i never bothered making another set of adaptors - might be worth making something out of wood for a mock up

On page 6

Got mine yesterday! Can't wait to get out and get all my parts together so I can do this.

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: You didn't get them yet? I can't believe it is taking so long. They were sent out last saturday morning. Several guys got them wednesday and thursday. Sorry it's taking so long.

mine came Friday - look good - If it ever stops raining i may try the 5* calipers this week.

quote Originally posted by topcat: Put the wheels back on, and took it for a ride. First impressions are that I need to bleed the brakes more. I was solo today, so I used a vacuum pump that was leaking around the bleeder ports so I do not think I got a good bleed on the rears. The pedal is not as firm as I think it should be. However if I jump on the brakes the car stops very very fast.. I did not try to lock them up since I need to break the new pads in but there is no doubt in my mind the car will lock all four in a pinch. They are more responsive than the stock brakes... even with the rears having what I suspect as air in them.

I thought this would be a good place to interject a little relevant gearhead know-how.

FWIW...AutoZone, and most of the other parts dealers, sell a brake bleed fitting with a check valve that allows you to bleed brakes solo. I have them on my Formula, and they're a breeze to use.

As insurance against getting air in the lines, however, I simultaneously use another "solo" trick, and slip a snug-fit piece of clear plastic tubing over the end of the bleed fitting, and run the other end into a mason jar about 1/4 full of clean brake fluid. A spring-loaded clothes pin on the tubing at the rim of the jar will help keep the tubing in place. The idea is to keep the end of the line covered in brake fluid. Air is expelled as bubbles, and only brake fluid is sucked back into the line. Once you don't see any more bubbles (it helps to make your line long enough to see the jar from the driver's seat) you tighten your bleed fitting and move to the next one. Make sure the master cylinder stays topped off so you don't get air in that way.
Of course, if you're rich, you can use FOUR mason jars...lol

Ok. back to our regularly scheduled topic.

[This message has been edited by Vonov (edited 11-13-2006).]

Just wanted to say I got my brackets today and they look really nice! Now I just gotta collect all the parts to do the job.

Also, I was wondering if I could just swap out the front and leave the back stock until I redo the rear end sometime next year. If I would do that which MC would I use?

Thanks,
Jason

I got my brackets the other day and they look great also, Thanks Bob for the great work. I too have to collect all of the other parts before starting this project. It is good to hear the completed updates.

I know it's probably posted somewhere in this thread (but I can't seem to find it), but could someone please post the Blazer master cylinder part number? Thanks!

------------------
1986 SE 350 V8

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: I know it's probably posted somewhere in this thread (but I can't seem to find it), but could someone please post the Blazer master cylinder part number? Thanks!

Before you get the master cylinder. Has anyone tried this upgrade with the S-10 booster install without the master cylinder upgrade? Has anyone tried the upgrade with the stock booster and stock master? I was wondering if the master was really necessary.

I just realized...this setup is for 84 - 87, right? Unless I'm mistaken, looks like I'll have a set of brackets for sale, lol...

OOOOOOHHHHHHHH NOOOOOOOOOO !!!!!!!!!!! (Mr. Bill?)
Let's find out for sure.....I'm pretty sure they won't work on an '88. Don't worry, I haven't deposited the M.O. yet (just got it yesterday) and haven't sent the brackets yet. I'll just mail back the M.O. you sent and see if someone else wants them. I think if I sign the M.O. and send it back you can deposit it (no?).

Help from out there.....they won't work on an '88 right?

If I am not mistaken these will not work for the 88 FIero. Archie sells the correct brackets for the 88 year model.

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: OOOOOOHHHHHHHH NOOOOOOOOOO !!!!!!!!!!! (Mr. Bill?) Let's find out for sure.....I'm pretty sure they won't work on an '88. Don't worry, I haven't deposited the M.O. yet (just got it yesterday) and haven't sent the brackets yet. I'll just mail back the M.O. you sent and see if someone else wants them. I think if I sign the M.O. and send it back you can deposit it (no?).

Ok, that'll work...I started reviewing the thread in preparation for starting on this project, and realized my error. As it happens, though, Archie is overstocked on the '88 brackets, and is having a sale ($140 as opposed to $240) so, I'll take advantage of that; I spoke to him this afternoon, so the M.O. you'll be returning will take care of half of that.

I'll just sign it and return it to you. Won't be able to hit the P.O. until maybe saturday due to my work schedule. I'll try earlier if possible.

any bracket sets available??

the 5 degree version if possible, but the 10 degree set would be fine too.

Email : the_icy_1@yahoo.com

Thanks.

Cory

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: I'll just sign it and return it to you. Won't be able to hit the P.O. until maybe saturday due to my work schedule. I'll try earlier if possible.

At your convenience, sir, and thanks.

LFiero67, I think one set just became available, lol...

Sorry, the last set has already been spoken for. I will be trying to get another 10 (or more) orders from PFF'ers after the holidays sometime after new years so keep watching.

Well, the last sets of the first run have been shipped. It seems everyone has been pleased with them. I will be checking on interest for another group of 10 (or more) order after the Holidays. If you are interested in ordering, just send me a P.M. (please include which rear brackets you want).

Thanks to the first group for getting this rolling and special thanks to Will and Kohburn for this great upgrade thread.

Bob

quote Originally posted by topcat: Put the wheels back on, and took it for a ride. First impressions are that I need to bleed the brakes more. I was solo today, so I used a vacuum pump that was leaking around the bleeder ports so I do not think I got a good bleed on the rears. The pedal is not as firm as I think it should be.

I put the car up on jacks today to bleed the rears. This time I used a little teflon tape on the bleeder screws, then used the vac pump on them. I got a good seal, and a good bleed this time. The pedal felt much firmer. I readjusted the parking brake, so it works now. Took it around the block and...
.
.
.
.
THE BRAKES ARE AWESOME! The car stops on a dime, and I can easily lock all four. Again, I did not try locking them, but it ain't hard. The money spent on this upgrade was cash well spent.

I found these on Ebay..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=260052850410

These are for the front so I emailed them asking if they were available for the 89 rear and they said yes. The list on page #5 says I need four 89 rear rotors. They (on Ebay) also have the rotors listed with a 2.5 or 3.0 in the description, I believe that's the engine size. That shouldn't be a factor when ordering. I would just like confirmation from the experts on the forum before I order them. Thanks

[This message has been edited by sactodreamer (edited 11-21-2006).]

quote Originally posted by sactodreamer: I found these on Ebay.. These are for the front so I emailed them asking if they were available for the 89 rear and they said yes. The list on page #5 says I need four 89 rear rotors. They (on Ebay) also have the rotors listed with a 2.5 or 3.0 in the description, I believe that's the engine size. That shouldn't be a factor when ordering. I would just like confirmation from the experts on the forum before I order them. Thanks

Just make sure you get the larger diameter rotor. These fit the 14" wheel so they are the smaller 10" rotor.

quote From eBay auction: VEHICLE: 91-96 CHRYSLER LeBaron 3.0 VEHICLE DETAILS: 14" Rim PART NUMBER: GD7067G FRONT/REAR: Front

The 11.25" rotor came with the stock 15" wheel. You also want to make sure the ones you get are vented.

The 89-90 LeBaron GTC came with the vented rear rotors. As I recall, the IROC Daytona had the same set up. Most Chrysler FWD cars from this era cam with solid rotor on the rear (if equipped with disc brakes).

------------------
FierOmar

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: Well, the last sets of the first run have been shipped. It seems everyone has been pleased with them. I will be checking on interest for another group of 10 (or more) order after the Holidays. If you are interested in ordering, just send me a P.M. (please include which rear brackets you want). Thanks to the first group for getting this rolling and special thanks to Will and Kohburn for this great upgrade thread. Bob

Just wanted to say that I got mine over the weekend and they look great. A big thanks to Bob and all his effort.

Seville calipers:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150023773111&rd=1,1

About $40 shipped for two loaded calipers. Good price?

these are for 91-96 seville, I thought you needed 85 seville calipers

tim

quote Originally posted by tharvey: these are for 91-96 seville, I thought you needed 85 seville calipers tim

HAHAHA oops your right.....I looked at this part:

CADILLAC
ALLANTE (V BODY FRONT & REAR WHEEL DRIVE)...........1992-1987
ELDORADO (E BODY (FWD & RWD)..............................1991-1986
SEVILLE, STS (K BODY (FWD & RWD)..........................1991-1986

I didn't look that the begining years, just saw the ending years as 1986 and thought the start (to the left when most normal people put the starting year) was 1981 or something lower then 1986. Good catch.......I was just testing you!

[This message has been edited by sactodreamer (edited 11-24-2006).]

Bump, payment for shipping & paypal is sent.

I don't know if the brackects that archie sells and yours rj are the same design but on my 86 my rear caliper bleeders are on top. In archie video you switch the e. brk levers from side to side r\r on l\r and l\r on r\r. Hope this helps anyone.

Joe

[This message has been edited by GODFATHER (edited 11-30-2006).]

Hi,

has anybody done this conversion with the SSBC calipers?
Would like to see some pics. Is it worth the money?

------------------
Jürgen Martin
white GT 87
Germany

I just called rock auto and it's going to run me $456 shipped for the cheapest loaded remaned 1985 calipers. This is with the core charge included (core: $10 each for the fronts and $69 each for the rears). Does that sound right? The rear cores are what hurts.

quote Originally posted by sactodreamer: I just checked autozone online and with core loaded would be $310 +tax. A much better deal especially if I can get a hold of some cores.

The price of the rear calipers sounds about right. I went junk yard shopping and found a pretty decent looking 85 Seville in the last yard I checked. The calipers looked good, so I paid 20 bucks each for them. Took a wire wheel to them, painted them, bought new bolts from AutoZone for 8 bucks and you can never tell they were used. It was a gamble but the yard I got them from had a money back warranty on them, so I really had nothing to lose.

Do the seville 86-91 rear brake calipers work for this??

quote Originally posted by sactodreamer: Do the seville 86-91 rear brake calipers work for this??

It does not look like it.

Here is a link to an AC Delco webpage that you can use to cross reference parts for GM vehicles.
http://198.208.187.182/internet/VehiclePartFits.jsp

Cool, Thanks for the link.

I just ordered my loaded calipers from AutoZone. The total was $330 including the core charge. The core fronts were $23 and the rears were $68. I have to decide if it's worth combing through U-Pull-It for some rears as cores. I think it's $20 per caliper there, the fronts aren't worth it, but is it worth the $28 for the rears.....probably not.