First pics of my install. The fronts are painted and ready to install. The rear calipers I got from AutoZone didn't have the e-brake brackets so I'm gonna go pull some from a wrecking yard or something.....I'll get my core back which is the other plus to that. I contacted a place about getting some cross drilled slotted rotors, they have to create a part number/production for them since they didn't actually have the rears in production. I'm happy with how these fronts turned out, but I'm still a long way from installing them on my car.
[This message has been edited by sactodreamer (edited 12-08-2006).]
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12:44 AM
Dec 9th, 2006
DandRauto Member
Posts: 419 From: Middletown, NJ Registered: Mar 2001
these look great. How was the letting done? again a great job
Thanks. I found the stickers at http://www.XenonMods.com. They were about $8 shipped for six stickers in my choice of color. I think they have other names available.
Send me a PM and I will put you on the list. I should be ordering sometime in the first couple weeks of January. I need at least 10 orders for a run and I believe you would make number four. I will be e-mailing my manufacturer soon to make sure everything is a go and then switching the bracket ordering over to the MALL section. I will let everyone that PM's me know when the order is going in. The price will be $80.00 + shipping for this batch and all remaining batches. Lots of work/time to get them all packaged and shipped.
Bob
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11:02 PM
Dec 27th, 2006
rjblaze Member
Posts: 1159 From: Bethlehem, Pa., United States Registered: May 2006
Since guys have been asking me and I haven't tried them yet:
Has anyone tried their 5 degree offset rear brackets yet and did it really make any difference? Kohburn, I think you ordered a set if I remember correctly. Any feedback?
Bob
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01:39 PM
TG oreiF 8891 Member
Posts: 776 From: Cleveland, Ohio; USA Registered: Aug 2004
I have a question that is slightly off the current topic; if anyone happens to know, I'd appreciate hearing the answer.
If I upgrade from Stock to the Seville / S-10 Blazer calipers and want to put SS braided flexible lines on the car, do I order the standard Fiero SS lines, or will the fittings not work with the Seville calipers? If they don't fit, where can I get adapters or are there lines for a different car which will fit?
I have a question that is slightly off the current topic; if anyone happens to know, I'd appreciate hearing the answer.
If I upgrade from Stock to the Seville / S-10 Blazer calipers and want to put SS braided flexible lines on the car, do I order the standard Fiero SS lines, or will the fittings not work with the Seville calipers? If they don't fit, where can I get adapters or are there lines for a different car which will fit?
Hey all.....long time no chat! Just letting everyone know that I am taking orders for the brake bracket sets (front and rear) for this upgrade. If you are interested, just drop me a PM to place an order. I have already heard from : bluefiero, 86goldse4speed, Kevin23k, htexans1, Hurricane, MartyK, 87FieroGT, LFiero67, and GODFATHER. Please contact me as soon as you can so I can get this order rolling. I only need one more request to start the order. Please be sure that you DEFINITELY want these before you PM me (sorry....had a few issues the last time), as I will hold you to your order.
Just so there is no question.....the sets are $80.00 + shipping for both front and rear (add $40.00 for an extra of either) and will contain 2 front brackets and 2 10 degree rear brackets. If you want the 5 degree rear brackets, please notify me (no change in price). I will be posting this in the mall with a very similar title so everyone will recognize it.
Thanks rjblaze
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03:56 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jan 3rd, 2007
rjblaze Member
Posts: 1159 From: Bethlehem, Pa., United States Registered: May 2006
I've noticed that most people only remove the flat portion of the rotor from the front hub. Has anyone removed the rest of the material that connects the rim mounting face to the rotor? If these questions make no sense, here's a picture of what I'm talking about. It's a cross-section of the hub. the red represents the removed material. The right half is (more or less) how it appears Sourmug's hubs are cut. The left half is another possible way to cut them. Has anyone done it this way? Is there a reason why it can't be done this way?
Thanks, Troy
[This message has been edited by LS1 Troy (edited 01-16-2007).]
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03:05 PM
tesmith66 Member
Posts: 7355 From: Jerseyville, IL Registered: Sep 2001
Mine are cut the way you are saying, but they were done that way for a Grand Am brake swap I currently have on the car. It would cost more to remove the extra material and really doesn't gain you anything. The weight savings would be minimal. It's easy to just remove the rotor portion.
------------------ 1986 SE 350 V8
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03:11 PM
Will Member
Posts: 14249 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Actually, it's easier and cheaper to do the way LS1 Troy asked about. My rotors were done that way and it is VERY easy and VERY quick to do it that way on a lathe.
Actually, it's easier and cheaper to do the way LS1 Troy asked about. My rotors were done that way and it is VERY easy and VERY quick to do it that way on a lathe.
Heck, If your careful not to get into the gussets between the flange and the bearing housing, I think you could do it with a recip. saw (sawsall).
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10:50 PM
Jan 17th, 2007
Will Member
Posts: 14249 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
I don't know if I'd do that... Aside from the potential balance issues, I just wouldn't want to put it on my car if it looked like someone hacked it up with a sawzall.
I would have to agree. That's why the word "CAREFUL" was used above
I guess the correct term might be "extremely careful." Also, what I was thinking of was removing the disk with the sawsall, leaving some room for error, and then cleaning up the hub to make it look nice. I'll give it a shot and send back some pictures.
removing that much material can be done - and has worked for some - but it has also cause the hub to crack at the stud holes when inserting new studs one a couple occassions. its slightly higher risk.
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01:35 PM
Will Member
Posts: 14249 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
I searched and found a few diagrams but nothing that is really clear. When Using this upgrade bracket, what exactly do I need to do to the stock rotors. I know I lathe off the friction surface where the factory pads sit, but do i need to machine the hub surface down to accomodate the added thickness of the lebarron rotors, or do I just use longer studs? Thank you for the any infomation to clarify and pics would be GREAT! Thanks! Surfs Up!
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07:48 PM
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
The front rotors have to have the disc parted off, but you do not want to try to machine the "hub" portion that is left. You buy longer studs to make up the difference. Stud part number is 610-323 and available at most discount parts stores.
When I did this upgrade, I took the time to replace the front wheel bearings since I had everything out of the way, and the bearings should be serviced on a regular basis anyway.
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09:25 PM
PFF
System Bot
psychosurfer Member
Posts: 2014 From: Jefferson, GA USA Registered: Mar 2006
Topcat, Thanks for the quick response. So I just remove teh friction surface are a of teh rotors on teh front and use the longer studs, what about on teh rear? How much further will this make my wheels spaced out? Im assuming just the thickness of the Lebarron rotors?
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10:47 PM
Jan 29th, 2007
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
The rears have a hub that will accept the LeBaron rotors without any mods to it. You simply remove the Fiero rotor and install the Lebaron one. The stocks studs fit okay.
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05:00 AM
psychosurfer Member
Posts: 2014 From: Jefferson, GA USA Registered: Mar 2006
Thanks for the info! Teh rears sound simple, the fronts sound easy enough, just wish they didnt space the front tires out any, my current offset looks perfect with the alignment of my rebody and dont want teh wheels to "hang out" of the wheel well.
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09:06 AM
DandRauto Member
Posts: 419 From: Middletown, NJ Registered: Mar 2001
On the rears, The Lebaron Rotors need to have the large center hole made larger to fit over the raised portion of the rear hub. It is not much, but is needed to have the rotor lay flat on the face of the hub.
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11:48 AM
Will Member
Posts: 14249 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
On the rears, The Lebaron Rotors need to have the large center hole made larger to fit over the raised portion of the rear hub. It is not much, but is needed to have the rotor lay flat on the face of the hub.
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03:30 PM
Jan 30th, 2007
psychosurfer Member
Posts: 2014 From: Jefferson, GA USA Registered: Mar 2006
Hey guys, one more question...I know this conversion is suppost to use the rear calipers from a 85 seville. Well, I was at teh yard today and snagged some from an 86 seville. I got teh bracketts, parking braek levers etc for a few bucks. Will they work. Auto Zone shows a different part number between teh two years.
NAyone have any pics of this conversion completed on the rear?
[This message has been edited by psychosurfer (edited 01-30-2007).]
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06:15 PM
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
It looks like they changed the design in 1986. I did a part number search on the AC Delco Website, and it shows the caliper working on cars from 1979 - 1985.
I am not sure of the differences.
I think I have a couple of pics on my other PC. If no one past pics in the next couple of hours, I will see about uploading them when I get home in a few hours.
BTW, here is a great website to demystify part number applicability.