I was wondering how much I should be charge for getting the caliper brackets made ? I was also looking on Archies site and he sells the brackets for for his kit for $240 .Are they the same brackets ? The rotor in the picture looks to be a Lebaron vented rotor thats why I was asking .
Yes, same brackets, as far as how the calipers fit is concerned. ALL 11.25" brakes for Fieros are based on the Camaro/S10 caliper with LeBaron rotor.
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01:26 PM
Jun 13th, 2005
GODFATHER Member
Posts: 1020 From: Summerville S.C Registered: Jun 2003
Thanks Will . I'm taking those cad drawings you send me to acouple of places to see if they can make up the caliper brackets for me . I got everything else purchased now just the final step, the cal. brkts . I'll keep you posted .
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09:04 PM
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
What he has as 1/2" holes, I have as 0.484 (clearance for 12mm - 0.472). But that's not the issue. I now notice the 1/8" "Machine Allowance" next to the dimension I had used for the width where the bracket saddled the caliper. I guess to be precise I need to go to the junk yard and measure this dimension directly from the knuckles that volunteered my cores. What seems to fit the caliper is 3.770, vice the 3.520 (1.760 * 2) from the drawing. I'll probably end up with something in the neighborhood of 3.800 to account for variation, as that's an as-cast surface on the caliper.
The brackets would need the steps I've outlined here, in addition to just being cut from plate steel. If you find a shop that can laser cut instead of flame cut, then you won't need the "0.125 mach allow" called out where the caliper would fit. Instead the dimensions that are 1.76 would become 1.885. That's only if you can have it laser cut instead of flame cut. Take a caliper into the shop along with the drawings, so that the machinist can have it to look at as well as the spec sheet.
Will
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10:29 PM
Jun 14th, 2005
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
The brackets would need the steps I've outlined here, in addition to just being cut from plate steel. If you find a shop that can laser cut instead of flame cut, then you won't need the "0.125 mach allow" called out where the caliper would fit. Instead the dimensions that are 1.76 would become 1.885. That's only if you can have it laser cut instead of flame cut. Take a caliper into the shop along with the drawings, so that the machinist can have it to look at as well as the spec sheet.
Will
Woops... Disregard my last. That only applies to the Zettner plans. The Kohburn drawings I sent you are set up to work correctly and will just require that the caliper mounting holes be tapped after the brackets are cut.
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09:52 AM
GODFATHER Member
Posts: 1020 From: Summerville S.C Registered: Jun 2003
I faxed over a set of drawings to a metal fab shop and they told me they need the distance of the bolt hole to the edge of the brackets and the circumference of the circle of the center of the bracket . I guest they want as much info as possible to make it easier for them . If either Will or Kohburn can help me out I would greatly apprieciate it .
Thanks Joe
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03:34 PM
GODFATHER Member
Posts: 1020 From: Summerville S.C Registered: Jun 2003
Holy $h!t just got a phone call on a price for each bracket $215 for the frt and $244 ea for the rear . Does this sound right ? I hope not . I'll keep trying other metal fab places .
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05:00 PM
Jun 15th, 2005
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Thanks Kolburn . I was expecting about $150 to maybe $200 for all four brackets . I'll keep calling and going around . Thanks in advance for any info .
I have used the SSBC calipers on a kit I made with the 11.24" Lebaron rotors. I have some pictures on my digital camara, is there some one I can send them to that will be able to post them ?
Thanks Joe
------------------ Team Race-Tech Automotive inc.
Specializing in Fiero performance 3800 swaps, custom 3800 and N* Aluminum flywheels, big Brakes, Engine rebuild, Aftermarket wheels, Bolt on performance parts, body enhancements, used Fiero parts, Authorized MOMO dealer, Authorized SSBC dealer.
You can post them. Scroll to the very bottom of this page and click on the red & blue link labeled Pennock's Image Poster. A small program will download to your computer. This program is used to upload files to a PFF hosting server.
You can post them. Scroll to the very bottom of this page and click on the red & blue link labeled Pennock's Image Poster. A small program will download to your computer. This program is used to upload files to a PFF hosting server.
Hi Wil, I down loaded the software, but still don't know what I should be looking for. As you can see I don't play around much on my computer to know what works and what doesn't.
If you could coach me a bit I might be able to get it right.
I'm going to try and make the brackets myself. I'm going to borrow a friends plasma cutter and give it a shot . I got the cad prints and made them the actual size for patterns s I can trace them . I got some other prices from other machine shops that I thought where still to high .
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03:59 PM
fourpoint9 Member
Posts: 1058 From: Long Beach, WA, USA Registered: Feb 2004
Are you guys still using the Blazer MC as well??? We installed the Corvette MC when we did the 12" vette brakes on the 86 and we had to have new MC to proportioning block lines made.. I noticed the vette MC was mentioned again earlier in this thread, but I'd like to avoid having to make new lines again...
I would also like to know about the Master Cylinder. I have Archie's Big Brake setup and it came with a 92-94 Full Sized 1/2 Ton 2WD Pickup Master Cylinder that I am about to install. I would like to know if it will work well or if there is a better choice. Is it a problem that it is a Rear Drum Master Cylinder? Is it recomended to get an adjustable proportioning valve?
I'm going to try and make the brackets myself. I'm going to borrow a friends plasma cutter and give it a shot . I got the cad prints and made them the actual size for patterns s I can trace them . I got some other prices from other machine shops that I thought where still to high .
No reason you can't cut the outline by hand if you're careful, however, I would strongly suggest drilling the caliper and knuckle mounting bolt holes because they need to be pretty precise, especially the caliper mounting holes, because they will need to be tapped for the bolts that hold the calipers.
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08:37 AM
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Originally posted by Team Race-Tech: Hi Wil, I down loaded the software, but still don't know what I should be looking for. As you can see I don't play around much on my computer to know what works and what doesn't.
If you could coach me a bit I might be able to get it right.
Joe
Been a while since I installed it on my computer. I'll see if I can install it on something else to refresh my memory.
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08:43 AM
Jun 20th, 2005
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
I believe I have the Blazer MC on my car, but it's been so long that I forgot all the diameters. What's the ID of the Blazer MC? Isn't there a Vette MC that's a little bigger?
I am going to have Kohburn's revised adapters made very soon. I just want to know, do I need any spacers to aline the caliper to the new rotor? Could I just use washers or something like that? I am asking this becaue I got a print out of all the parts from Archie, and it lists...
(4) caliper adapter spacers front 1.00"OD x .50"ID x .435 thick (4) caliper adapter spacers rear 1.00"OD x .50"ID x .060 thick
I obviously excluded a bunch of parts, but these spacers kind of confused me a little.
I now am going to use the front and rear calipers off an 80-85 Seville, the master cyl. from 92-94 chevy full sized 1/2 ton pickup, and the new lug studs (PN 610-323). I am just wondering if I should have those spacers made the same time I make the caliper adapters?
the .060 spacer is the standard thickness of a washer - just get 4- 1/2" washers
the other 4 spacers can be cut from round barstock on a lathe of bandsaw and drilled - for mine I took some .375" thick flat barstock and cut 4 squares with a sawsall then drilled them 1/2" through
[This message has been edited by Kohburn (edited 07-11-2005).]
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03:05 PM
Jul 21st, 2005
DandRauto Member
Posts: 419 From: Middletown, NJ Registered: Mar 2001
Back on page 1, someone brought up the SSBC Force 10 R1 for use on the rear since they have ebrake levers. Has anybody used these? Do the work with with the brackets that were in the orginal design? Where is a good source to get these from? Price?
Thanks
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10:56 AM
GODFATHER Member
Posts: 1020 From: Summerville S.C Registered: Jun 2003
I ordered the caliper brackets from Archie .I don't have the time to make the brackets or shop around for someone that can . I have everything else to do the job .
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11:52 AM
Jul 25th, 2005
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
The 1LE third gen's had aluminum calipers, but they are rare and expensive. Much more cost-effective to use the iron ones. Besides, that's what the market is already built around.
A friend of mine just "upgraded" the brakes on his 87 IROC to 1LE spec. He got the spindles from the internet and bought the rotors and calipers from Autozone. You CAN still get the 1LE dual-piston, aluminum calipers as reman FENCO from AZ, part numbers and prices are as follows...
Driver's side: C364, $33.99 w/ $20.00 core, Lifetime Warranty, special order (available) Pass side: C365, $33.99 w/ $35.00 core, Lifetime Warranty, special order (available)
Of course the core price is going to drive the purchase price of these pieces up if you don't have cores to give them. Although, my friend cheated and took back his stock IROC iron cores which they accepted as the cores for the 1LE calipers. Probably not something I would do because I shop there quite often. Furthermore, the 1LE calipers are set up for larger than stock Camaro brake rotors, therefore I would assume they won't work with the brackets mentioned in this thread.
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03:31 AM
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
What's different about the knuckles? Are the caliper mounting points different?
If they have the same mounting points, they could just bolt on to the normal brackets, but then again so can SSBC and Wilwood calipers.
Nope, the mounting points are different which his friend had to change the spindles.
I just asked Sluppy to make me the second redesign of the rear brackets that Kohburn posted. I really think that those brackets are going to simplify the rear end of this brake upgrade.
------------------
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09:29 PM
Jul 31st, 2005
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Originally posted by Will: When using REAR LeBaron rotors and 3/8" thick caliper brackets, use 0.325 thick spacers between caliper mounting ears and caliper bracket. When using LeBaron FRONT rotors and 3/8" thick caliper brackets, use 0.650 thick spacers.
This information was for use with Street Dreams aluminum knuckles.
I just did a mock up with the stock knuckles and you'll need 0.450 or so thick spacers with LeBaron rear rotors and 0.800 or so thick spacers with the LeBaron front rotors, due to elevation difference between the caliper mounting ears.
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10:57 AM
Sep 1st, 2005
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Originally posted by Team Race-Tech: Hi Wil, I down loaded the software, but still don't know what I should be looking for. As you can see I don't play around much on my computer to know what works and what doesn't.
If you could coach me a bit I might be able to get it right.
Joe
If you still want to post pics, I'll host them for you.
the .060 spacer is the standard thickness of a washer - just get 4- 1/2" washers
the other 4 spacers can be cut from round barstock on a lathe of bandsaw and drilled - for mine I took some .375" thick flat barstock and cut 4 squares with a sawsall then drilled them 1/2" through
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12:46 PM
Sep 15th, 2005
Flyguyeddy Member
Posts: 568 From: pekin, Il USA Registered: Dec 2003
Originally posted by Flyguyeddy: cool. now can we get an updated parts list?
Is it too much to ask of you to read the thread and compile one yourself? You'd have had it by now.
quote
Originally posted by Will: The calipers come from 4WD '83-'94 S10 pickups/T10 Blazers. The left is CarQuest P/N 18-4129 and the right is CarQuest P/N 18-4128 for unloaded calipers. The loaded caliper P/N's are 16-4128(9) for right and left, respectively.
Do NOT get 2WD calipers. Those are exactly the same as the F-body calipers.
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Originally posted by FieroMikeTDC: Sorry to steal the thread but does anyone know a good place to order rotors from? I went to canadian tire today to price out the same rotors [11.26" vented, rear, for an 89-94 LeBaron] used in this upgrade and it came to a sticker price of $86 per rotor. Good thread BTW.
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Originally posted by Kohburn: Just incase anyone is curious - the s10 blazer caliper is the same P/N as the FRONT caliper for the 85 cadilac seville (85 cadilac seville is what you get the rear calipers from)
so get the front and rear calipers from an 85 seville - the 4 rear rotors from an 89 chrysler lebaron - and the rest of the parts list
quote
Originally posted by Kohburn: thats what I just ordered - 1- 92 blazer 1-1/8" bore master cyl 4- 85 caddillac seville front and rear calipers 4- 94 chrysler lebaron vented rear rotors 10- wheel studs (610-323) 2- 86 fiero front brake hoses (to use on the rear)
I'll pick up pads locally since they are only 11$ a set for the cheapies or look for performance pads for the the front of an 82-92 Chevrolet Camaro
quote
Originally posted by Kohburn: don't know yet If I'm going to add them to my company's inventory - but I will supply the cad files I used
Originally posted by Kohburn: no I am using the -2 adaptor so no need for me to make the -3's
You're using it with slightly modified pads, right? I was wondering if you knew if -3 would let the caliper be mounted without pad modifications. Also, the calipers are on the same side as stock, but on the rear of the knuckle instead of the front, right? So the bleeders are on the bottom? Or do I have that messed up?