Just wanted to add that I got my Blazer calipers mounted on the front today. I like the way the brake line attaches and where the bleeder is located. Will this was a very good addition to this brake swap, thanks again!

quote Originally posted by Will: You're using it with slightly modified pads, right? I was wondering if you knew if -3 would let the caliper be mounted without pad modifications. Also, the calipers are on the same side as stock, but on the rear of the knuckle instead of the front, right? So the bleeders are on the bottom? Or do I have that messed up?

yeah bleeders are on the bottom - I pulled the calipers off to bleed them, been thinking of a way to drill and tap for a new bleeder up top.

i made -3 based on some measurements I took off my modified break pads - it "should" fit but i can't guarantee it as i never bothered making another set of adaptors - might be worth making something out of wood for a mock up

My dad will be using those same calipers to put rear disks on his Eagle, so I will probably just have the laser burn one to mock up since we'll have a pair of those calipers around.

I have a set of Sluppy REAR brackets for sale with the spacers and ebrake elbows for sale if anyone wants them. Make me an offer..

Here's a stupid question... What size are the damn hex heads of the blazer slider bolts? None of the sizes I tried fit 'right'. I don't really want to tighten the caliper down with a loose fitting hex thing so figured I'd try to find out...

Got a new 3/8" bit, works perfectly, just wanted to add that.

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 11-07-2005).]

Well I installed my rear brakes this weekend while I was reinstalling my engine and I had the wheels off I decided to do my brake upgrade . Took some pics when I'm done with the frt I'll post them . I like the way they look in the back of the wheel . Hope they work as good as they look .

Do you guys feel that the back brakes are still delayed from this upgrade . I feel the difference with braking but still feels like the frts are working more then the rear or grabbing faster . I read in another post that some people take a seal out of the prop valve to let the rears do more work . Is this true and does it work ?
Thanks
Joe

Godfather did you upgrade the master cylinder to a Chevy Blazer master cylinder or are you still using the stock one. If you are still using the stock one that would cause you to have more pedal travel as most upgraded brakes take more fluid to operate. This could be one of the problems you are experiencing.

[This message has been edited by Knight Rider (edited 11-15-2005).]

I upgraded the master cly to the 92 Blazer .

Here's some pics.

Bump to the top so I can save this in my favorites. This is o/t but is there any way to save a thread in your favorites while you're viewing it? I couldn't find anything.

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I don't think there is. There's also no way other way to subscribe to a thread unless you authored it.

Just finished reading this thread. Absolutely amazing. What I particularly like about this upgrade, is that it uses parts that are likely to be around for years to come, generally less expensive than Fiero equivalents, and still allows the use of factory or factory-size wheels, keeping the cost of a better set of brakes down to a reasonable level for those who either don't have the coin for new wheels and tires, or live in an area where aftermarket wheels are an added risk to one's vehicle (or life, even). It also allows the use of components such as brake pads which are designed for high-performance applications. I have another browser window open as we speak, ordering parts.

Already gave you a plus, Will---too bad I can't give you another, nice work. One for Kohburn as well.

[This message has been edited by Vonov (edited 06-09-2006).]

Ok so I'm definitely doing this swap.

I want to start collecting the parts, but I need a complete parts list.

I read through the entire thread and got somewhat overloaded with info along the way...

I'd like to use the S10 calipers upfront... so those work with Kohburn's brackets right? Then its caddy calipers in the rear with Kohburn's bracket thats been rotated 5 degrees...

From what I understand, this totally elimates the need for new brake lines in the front and back and the ebrake hardware from the caddy caliper is retained with no problems...

I'm also gonna need to have my front hub/rotor "aparted" and lebaron rear vented rotors will be purchased... Do the rotors need to be modified?

What other hardware is needed in terms of bolts, washers, spacers (I'm confused on the whole spacer thing)

Sorry for the questions, I know its probably been covered but I'm looking for sort of a final draft of what exactly is needed. There is a lot of info in this thread with different opinions and methods. I'm looking to do this straightforward... I'm a newb at brakes

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I'm with doublec4 on this one. Anyone have a compilation of what is needed and who makes brackets, etc?

quote Originally posted by Vonov: Just finished reading this thread. Absolutely amazing. What I particularly like about this upgrade, is that it uses parts that are likely to be around for years to come, generally less expensive than Fiero equivalents, and still allows the use of factory or factory-size wheels

I didnt think it would work with stock 14" wheels.

VERY interested in a set of rear brackets...

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1986 SE 350 V8

The details of all that is needed is in Will's post at the end of the 5th page. It's in all quotes.

As for brackets, who [still] makes them?

I've got money in hand ready to send to someone who can make the required brackets. (The fronts and the newly revised rear ones that fix the ebrake problem / longer brake hose problem)

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The fronts are available from the traditional sources... Archie, WCF, etc.

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: I didnt think it would work with stock 14" wheels.

Sorry, I was referring to the use of stock Formula wheels. No slight intended to our less robust-wheeled brethren...

hmmm ok,

is anybody here, such as Kohburn, willing to make these brackets for me? I'll probably take the design to a machine shop and see what kind of a price I can get on them, but maybe somebody wants to make a few bucks...

let me know.

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quote Originally posted by GODFATHER: Do you guys feel that the back brakes are still delayed from this upgrade . I feel the difference with braking but still feels like the frts are working more then the rear or grabbing faster . I read in another post that some people take a seal out of the prop valve to let the rears do more work . Is this true and does it work ? Thanks Joe

yes since the brakes are the same size as eachother the stock proportioning will still be in effect and needs improvement - removing the seal will result in a 50/50 brake split

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: yes since the brakes are the same size as eachother the stock proportioning will still be in effect and needs improvement - removing the seal will result in a 50/50 brake split

What seal? Someone please post pictures...

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1986 SE 350 V8

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: What seal? Someone please post pictures...

here ya go

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: here ya go

yikes! I'm still not convinced that other passage exists, but it does makes more sense that any previous guesses on the prop valve function.

Wil, Kohburn....You guys did a great job with this thread....kudos for all the great information! I understand all the parts required (great lists) and most of the installation requirements. Just a few things are puzzling me even after reading the entire thread three times. What are you referring to as the 7/16 - NF thread bolts of 1.0" and 1.5" long? Are you talking about the caliper bracket-to-knuckle/spindle bolts, or the caliper-to-caliper bracket bolts? I think you mean the bracket-to-knuckle/spindle bolts right? I have seen the Zettner plans and even printed them to scale (also noting your corrections). If I download your cad files onto a CD, do you think my local machinist friend could just download the information onto his CNC machine and mill the out?
Would it be possible to get a hardcopy (e-mailed or faxed) of these breacket plans (fronts, rears-2 and -3)?

Godfather.....you are very local to me (Saucon Valley - Bethlehem). Any chance of getting together to discuss this? Who made your brackets?

Thanks Guys

yes the caliper bracket to knuckle bolts - we did it this way because unless the shop taps the brackets for you then you need to buy a tap... so then you can tap the knuckles the same thread - the calliper bolts are 7/16 NF ( 7/16-20 )

any CNC shop will be able to work with the dxf files to give you a quote

Talking about the rears, right?

I am asking about both the front and rears. So this means you are tapping the holes in the rear knuckle and front spindles to the same thread as the caliper-to-bracket slide bolt thread size.

Thanks Kohburn

Negative.
No tapping is necessary on the front spindles.

Ok, not to beat a dead horse BUT I'm learning as I go along and I want to be 100% sure...

This is the list of stuff I have to get:

Front/Rear Calipers from an 85 Cadillac Seville
89-94 Lebaron Rear Rotors Vented
10 Wheel Studs (610 - 323)
.060 Spacer (x4) -----> same thickness as a standard 1/4" washer
1.00"OD x .50"ID x .435 thick Spacer (x4)
Kohburn Front Caliper Brackets
Kohburn Rear Caliper Brackets (I think I'm going to try the brackets that were rotated 5 degrees)

Is there anything missing from that list? (I know theres something about caliper bolts I think?)

Then of course I need to get the front hub/rotor assembly "aparted." Are there any measurements I need to know when bringing them to the machine shop? Where do they get aparted exactly?

Also, the wheel studs.. how do those go in? Are the old ones knocked out of the hub or something?

Do the lebaron rotors need to be modified at all?

Do the brake pads need to be modified at all to fit?

I'm a little confused with the ebrake stuff as well. With the new brackets, the rear caliper sits upside down? Does this eliminate the need for the ebrake bracket of the old Zettner kit? Will I need anything special to hook up the ebrake to the rear caliper?

If someone could answer some of these questions I would appreciate it. I have read through this thread several times now but I'm still confused with some of the info. Everyone seems to have their own method or modifications and I'm new at this. Thanks for the being patient.


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[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 06-21-2006).]

With the OLD brackets, the rear calipers were switched L for R and used upside down. Kohburn's new bracket design fixes that.

Kohburn's 10 degree rotation fixes the problem mentioned above, but creates a need to slightly clearance the pad. The 5 degree rotation should eliminate that, but has not been tested yet.

The rotors do not require modification.

The old lug studs will press or hammer out of the hub flanges and the new ones can be drawn in with a lug nut. Apply some high strength loctite to be sure.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 06-21-2006).]

Awesome thanks! + for sure

SO my list is complete then? What about the bolts that attach the caliper to the brackets to the knuckle/spindle? Do they come with the caliper? and is it only the rear that has to be tapped?

Sorry for all the questions but... do the brackets need tapping at all? and will a machine shop do that?

quote Originally posted by doublec4: I'm a little confused with the ebrake stuff as well. With the new brackets, the rear caliper sits upside down? Does this eliminate the need for the ebrake bracket of the old Zettner kit? Will I need anything special to hook up the ebrake to the rear caliper?

You do not need the E-brake bracket that Zettner designed no matter what caliper bracket you use. The original bracket places the brake cable to close to the CV boot for my liking. The 10* one causes some interference with the pads. I would recomend using the 5* one though as it looks like the best solution until you tell us otherwise.

You will need to make sure to get calipers with all of the hardware attached to them for attaching the cable. I bought "loaded" ones which came with this hardware. Your stock Fiero Ebrake cables with work with this hardware.

Don't confuse yourself with the whole upside down stuff. Some people say that Zettner had them upside down because of the brake line attachment. I say the way I mount them is upside down because they are rotated 180* from the Cadillac application which puts the bleeder facing down. Once you get the parts i'm sure you will understand.

Bump for information gathering

Sounds good so far. I'm going to try the 5* brackets and I'll let everyone know how they work. I'll be doing this in the next two weeks. Thanks guys!

... actually the only thing that I'm still not clear on is the bolts that bolt the calipers/brackets/spindle. What exactly do I need there and what needs to be tapped for what thread?

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tap the caliper to adaptor holes 7/16-20 (NF) and then also tap the stock knuckle holes 7/16-20 and get 7/16 bolts the right length to bolt the adaptors on..

the calipers should come with bolts pins