Again, that's rear only. No need in the front.

would it be best to order loaded calipers? what exactly do they come with that I'm going to need?

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Loaded fronts come with pads & caliper slider bolts. The unloaded ones may come with slider bolts, depending on supplier.

Loaded rears come with pads, slider bolts & ebrake lever, springs & associated hardware.

Getting loaded rears is a necessity. Loaded fronts may be a luxury.

I HAVE SEEN THE LIGHT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Will and Kohburn,
Thanks for all the great information. You finally helped me understand all the necessary equipment needed. I found loaded rear seville calipers on Autozone.com for $64.00 each. I also found out that Dodge Daytone/IROC/RT rear vented cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors will work instead of the regular solid rotors. You can get them already cad plated to stop corosion. these were on Summitracing.com. Thanks again guys for all the help!

The LeBaron rotors ARE vented.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 06-27-2006).]

Sorry Will,
I really should have been specific. I was referring to the cross-drilling and slotting, not the venting. I do realize that the Lebaron units are vented. By the way, they are for a '93 Daytona/IROC/R/T.

Just a quick question that I didn't see answered in this thread.

What grade of bolt should the adapter bolts be?

Thanks
Nolan

Grade 13.

What grade are you comfortable using on your brakes?

Grade 13 I guess.

Thanks
Nolan

What I particularly like about this upgrade, is that it uses parts that are likely to be around for years to come, generally less expensive than Fiero equivalents, and still allows the use of factory or factory-size wheels

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: I didnt think it would work with stock 14" wheels.

Actually, when I posted, I was thinking of the 15" Formula/GT wheels...but on the other hand, now that I think about it, the stock brakes should work better, comparatively speaking, with the 14" inch wheels, than with the 15" inchers, because of the smaller size of the wheel in proportion to the rotors, just like the 11" in. rotors provide an improvement in braking over the stock rotors with the 15" in. wheels. It's all a question of mechanical advantage, and the larger wheel/tire (in terms of circumference) setup you have on your car, the more work your brakes must do to stop the vehicle. Not only do the 11" inch rotors provide more leverage to stop your car, but the larger disk gives considerably more surface area to dissipate heat from, providing more resistance to fade.

ARG, as far as I can tell there are no grade 13 fasteners the closest would be 12.9 so I am told. Where is everyone getting their hex head cap screws from? I can't seem to find a source.

Thanks
Nolan

Any type of Grade 8 bolt will work, hex head, cap screw whatever you want. Most hardware stores carry some type of grade 8 fasteners.

"Grade 13" was a joke.

Bolts in English sizes go up to grade 8. Bolts in metric sizes go up to class 12.9. I'd use grade 8 for English hardware and class 10.9 or better for Metric hardware. I believe GM uses 10.9 in brake applications.

Ah, I guess it's a joke only if you understand the different grades.

Thanks everyone, even you Will
Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-07-2006).]

I'm getting some quotes on having the brackets made... is anybody capable of making these or have an extra set laying around that you would sell me?

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Unless someone has access to the proper machinery, I think the best bet is for interested parties to get together and order these as a group.My understanding is that ordering a one-off would be nearly as expensive as ordering twenty sets, because of the setup time on the equipment. The material cost is next to zero.

I have the proper machines to make these brackets and have made them before, I used to sell them in the "Mall". I stopped making them because the demand dried up or people would say they wanted a set then couldn't cough up the money to buy them once I made them. If I started making them again there is no way I could charge what I used to charge, my costs to make them have gone up and that would have to be passed on to the buyer. The price of steel alone is a lot higher now than two years ago when I stopped making them.

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Silver 87' GT- Turbo Charged/intercooled 2.8 V-6
Maroon 87' GT- 355 TPI V8, 5-speed
Maroon 88' Coupe- 3800sc, 4spd auto

I guess theres no chance you still have a set sitting around do you? I dont even care if they've been used.

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Actually, I'm at work right now and I was just talking to a client who runs a CNC company. I asked him if he could do me a favour and run off some brackets and he said he thinks he could do it.

Only problem is that he works with 3/16th inch steel thickness only.

Do you guys foresee a problem with doubling up 3/16th inch steel brackets so that when put together it is 3/8th inch?

Will this affect how it is tapped for the thread and all that?

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quote Originally posted by doublec4: Actually, I'm at work right now and I was just talking to a client who runs a CNC company. I asked him if he could do me a favour and run off some brackets and he said he thinks he could do it. Only problem is that he works with 3/16th inch steel thickness only. Do you guys foresee a problem with doubling up 3/16th inch steel brackets so that when put together it is 3/8th inch? Will this affect how it is tapped for the thread and all that?

As long as they were welded together and then tapped, it should not be a problem, although putting the the "sandwich" in a vise to compress the two layers during the tapping might make that easier.
Edit: Now that I think about it, if they were firmly compressed in a vise during the tapping, welding might not be necessary at all...

[This message has been edited by Vonov (edited 07-08-2006).]

I wouldn't want to tap a sandwhich like that unless it was welded.

The only way I would even consider using two 3/16" plates is if they were completly welded together, tapping them would be no problem.

Vonov- I will crunch some numbers and post a price.

Sluppy, glad to see you around again. We've had the swapped brakes on both cars for quite a long time now, both the 12" and these guys. Just wanted to say thanks again, may be interested in another set of these lebaron ones again if you make another run, keep us updated..

So I have the calipers....

for the rears, both calipers are supposed to have the lever arm and the other bracket that I'm assuming acts like a "guide" for the cable to run to the arm?

Only one of my calipers came with both the "guide" bracket and the lever arm.

The other one just came with the lever arm. Is this right or should I take it back?

I can take pictures if you need.

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doublec4:

Could you post some pictures for the benefit of the rest of us?

Thanks
Nolan

Here are some pics of what I'm talking about:

Here's the rear caliper with both the "guide" bracket as I call it, and the lever arm:



And this is the rear caliper with just the lever arm and a spot for the guide bracket but nothing there? I probably need that eh?



And here's a pic of one of my rotors:

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quote Originally posted by doublec4: And this is the rear caliper with just the lever arm and a spot for the guide bracket but nothing there? I probably need that eh?

Yeah, you need that. I'm not sure if you got gypped on the one that didn't have it, or if you got a sweet deal on the one that does. That's probably not a parts store item either. There's an outside chance that GM still carries them, but your best bet is probably a junkyard.

damn it

^bump^

All the pieces are slowly coming together...

I plan on having everything I need by wednesday so I can do the swap.

I will take pictures of everything and post them at a later date.

However... does anyone have any general or specific instructions on the process of installation? Which wheel should I start on (furthest from the master cylinder?), does it matter? etc.

Thanks!

P.S. does anybody know the length of those bolts I need for the adapters to the rear knuckle/spindle?

... oh and last question I promise! ... the spacers that were listed... where do they go? what do they space?

Hopefully I can get some info in the next few days! Thanks again guys!
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[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 07-15-2006).]

^bump^

If somebody could PLEASE answer any of my questions above I would really appreciate it!

Wednesday is coming up fast and its my last day to work on the brakes before I need my car on the road!

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A bump to the top to see if anyone has a finished product..... MK

I did it.

I started another thread but have been having a week from hell. Haven't had a chance to post anthing though. Sorry

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