Dang you work fast! So how much to build ME one? j/k... well... not really.

Just helping to keep the ship afloat... Bump

Did the "x" braces on the rear hoop:

The diagonal brace for the top hoop:

Two of the four remaining tubes that tie the tunnel into the front suspension (the diagonal bits):

Next up is the rear structure. I'm going to leave the door bars till later as it will be easier to install mounts for seats, pedals, and steering shaft. The door bars follow the same outline as the center tunnel.

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: Did the "x" braces on the rear hoop:

Are you going to have a 6" porthole for a rear window?

Navy surplus periscope.

I just noticed that the cage tubing looks like it's HREW or CDEW. Is that legal for road racing? Just curious because my cage has to be DOM to pass NHRA tech. I really like your chassis design. Coming from a drag racing background, it's a lot different than what I am used to.

Forget the periscope man, get a 21st century camera and dash-mounted screen

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Todd Perkins - the member formerly known as "perkidelic"
todd's hot rods

Main cage tubing is also .120 and .090 wall which is also not legal for NHRA. Tubing is cold rolled ERW which is OK for me, but you have to pay attention where the seam is when bending so that the weld isn't stretched. The tube welding process has improved over the years. I haven't seen any split for at least fifteen years. DOM, for those that don't know is also ERW that is then drawn over a mandrel. Because of this process the grain alignment is changed and the tubing gets slightly stiffer. Cold rolled is also stiffer than hot rolled. So now that everyone is totaly confused....

Those who just wanna see the freakin car get built, please excuse the techno-babble. Detail freaks like me just need a little more background info to enjoy the show

I miss building things, I love my job but its not as rewarding as building something from a pile of parts.

quote Those who just wanna see the freakin car get built, please excuse the techno-babble. Detail freaks like me just need a little more background info to enjoy the show

I like pics as much as anyone, but what do the abreviations HREW, CDEW, DOM & ERW stand for.

TIA for a PDQ answer lol

Bob

HREW = Hot Rolled Electric Resistance Welded. Tube is formed hot from flat sheet and welded.
CDEW = Cold Drawn Electric Resistance Welded. Tube is fomed cold from flat sheet and welded.
DOM = Drawn Over Mandrel. Mandrel is forced into the ID of the tube which expands the tube. Makes the weld seam disappear.
ERW = Electric Resistance Welded.
HR = Hot Rolled. Steel formed when hot. Has oxide coating which should be removed prior to welding.
CR = Cold Rolled. Steel formed when hot. Surface is clean, usually oily.
P&O = Pickled and Oiled. Hot rolled steel that has been acid dipped to remove the oxide coating and then oiled.
Seamless = Tubing that is extruded and has no weld seam. Same stiffness as HR.
Moly or Chorme Moly = Steel alloy with additional carbon. Way stiff, can be brittle. Usually TIG'ed, needs stress relief if MIG'ed. Almost always seamless if in tube form.
Mild steel = Steel with less than 2% carbon. Does not require stress relief. Ductile.

There will be a test Monday.

How about this for a tube frame? http://chassisworksinc.com/home.html

I did most of the rear clip today:

Got a few more bars in and mounted the oil tank:


Also made the rack mount and got that on. The rack shown has an end that is too long. I have to change it anyway to get one with a power steering slave mount.

I scored some C5 spindles today. I am a happy guy.

I'm Impressed.........

Yeah me too, things are definitely looking good! So now that you have the C5 knuckles, are you going to have to revise the geometry?

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Todd Perkins - the member formerly known as "perkidelic"
todd's hot rods

All I have to do is add another hole in the frame below the original hole for the lower a-arm and play with the bump steer I think. Won't know for sure until I get the spindles and measure them (spindles are being shipped). Do you still need some measurements on the spindles? I can let you know if it looks like the C4 bearing could be adapted to the C5 hub. It looks like most of the offset difference is in the hub itself though.

Yesss please Measurements, C4 hub compatibility, and anything you find will be much appreciated! IIRC the C5 bearing has a longer measurement from its mounting flange to the wheel mounting surface. I could be wrong though.

Are you mounting your UCA's on some type of bolt-in structure, since your LCA's have dedicated pick-up points? It would allow you to make changes at a later date without having to cut and weld. Just a thought.

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Todd Perkins - the member formerly known as "perkidelic"
todd's hot rods

Looks good!

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I reworked a tube that was going to be in the way of the starter. Before:

After:

Also got the front engine mounts made and in. Still need a gusset from the cross tube to the front of the lower edge of the mount.


The dry sump pump mount will be incorperated into the left mount when it is made. Have to raise the pump up about an inch. I think it's time to clean the garage.

Very good work so far

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85 GT 4 speed 2.8L auto X'er

www.freewebs.com/saskatoonfieros/

Put in a couple of rear lower suspension brackets today:

awesome!!!!

Rear coil over mounts:

C5 knuckles or your own brand in back? SLA right?

I was planning on struts in back for clearance with a transverse setup, but with the width I'll have I may be able to run an SLA setup, if I can connects the dots (front and rear geometry).

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Todd Perkins - the member formerly known as "perkidelic"
todd's hot rods

[This message has been edited by toddshotrods (edited 01-31-2005).]

Very nice workmanship. Cant wait to see the rest of this build-up!

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"If you want to blend in, take the bus!"
85GT "Mistress"
87Coupe (Blue)
87GT Med red metallic (Fresh paint job 12/04)
87 Coupe blue w/dealer installed t-tops!

You make me sick, in the time I've been thinking I need to mount my MAP sensor you've built a ruddy car.
Awsome work though. Can you mount my MAP sensor for me pleeeeeeeeeezze?

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Dave E

www.ltlfrari.com
Visit the NC Fieros website at TarheelFieros.org

Rear suspension will be two lower lateral links with a strut bar to the rear. Upper will be single lateral link with strut bar to the front. Hub carriers will be fabricated and interchangable from side to side, with C4 hubs. There will be adjustable tubular sway bars front and rear with aluminum Pro coil-overs. I should have the rear suspension wrapped up this week end.

wow you are making some serious progress - making me want to get back to making my little prototype car.. I got about 10% of the parts I need for it

What do you have, little elves cobbling away at night? Your progress is amazing. Keep up the great work (and thread).

Bob

You guys stop, I'm getting all gooshy. Rear strut mounts:

There is some adjustment here to adjust bite. Need to get some more welding wire and tubing.

Just a note to everyone....

The work shown here is the work of a professional. It is obvious that he has build several cars over many years and knows exactly how he wants to set the car up from experience. Pay close attention (like anyone is not ) because this is the way a car should be built. Each step is planned and furture steps are considered. Very, very little is "I'll figure it out when I get there". Notice the sequence of the thought process taking place.

BTW: This statement is not to put others down who are building or have build cars a different way. I am just pointing out the HUGE learning potential here. Some day I would like to remake the frame for my IMSA in a similar manner to improve the quality of craftsmanship.

Again......... Fantastic job. I have only done ONE car from "scratch", and I know how tough it is.

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Paul

Home Built Tube Chassis IMSA Race Car - 3.8 lb./hp | 1987 Fiero GT 119,xxx, 3.1 motor, 1 1/4" rear swaybar, Full poly

Great job. Keep it up.

That's a baaaaaaad mamajama Gus!!! Nice job!

Got the last two pieces in that tie the tunnel into the frame. Also got the front door bars in and mounted the clutch and brake pedals:


I've also been working on the rear hub carrier weldments:

ahh this thing is aewsome!!!!
what would be the estimated final weight of this chassis?
greate job gusshotrod thanks for leting us watch this project so close.

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mod it until is perfect.

http://members.cardomain.com/boricuaso

VERY NICE. Your fab skills are first class. It is very nice to be able to follow this build thread. This is one of my favorite topics to visit. You get a plus Keep up the good work.

Should be around 2200 lbs. Door bars:

I've been doing them this way for a while. It's stronger than the traditional "X" and it gives you somwhere to put your butt when you get in and out.

[This message has been edited by gusshotrod (edited 02-04-2005).]

I like the door bar design but I want to be legal on NHRA tracks and they're too low for that. I'll probably just go with a traditional swing-out diagonal bar.

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Todd Perkins - the member formerly known as "perkidelic"
todd's hot rods