how much money in tubing would you say you have spent on this,and how much do you think you would have spent on the chassis alone ones is done? just so i know how much money i need to have before i takle a project like this!
Steel prices got real goofy when China started buying all the scrap. There's around $400 in steel and maybe another $200 in supplies in the frame. Probably goiing to take about $200 more when I get into the sheet metal.
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07:12 PM
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
This has got to be one of the most interesting and informative build threads in a long time. Look forward to seeing it as it proceeds to completion. Truly an inspiration to the rest of us mere mortals!!
I had to help a high school kid repair an electric race car. I'm working on the rear hubs and rear suspension. Picked up a bunch of goodies today. Should have an update tommorow.
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08:41 PM
Feb 8th, 2005
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
Some pictures of the rear suspension: I received the C5 spindles today. Looks like the redesign from C4 to C5 will be easy. These things are trick and came with 13 inch curved vane rotors. King pin angle is way small. Also picked up the servo for the power steering and started putting that in.
I was looking at the Daytona prototype cars. The big engine ones have to weigh 2200 lbs (which is the target weight for this thing) and have less horspower than is going in this. Yee Hah....
[This message has been edited by gusshotrod (edited 02-08-2005).]
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09:07 PM
YELLOWFIERO88 Member
Posts: 1329 From: Cincinnati, Ohio Registered: Nov 2004
Which bearing/hub assemblies are you planning to use with the C5 knuckles?
When ever you get a chance could you measure the seat/flange area of the C5 knuckle and post it here or email it to me. I am very curious about what it would take to adapt the C4 bearing to it.
------------------ Todd Perkins - the member formerly known as "perkidelic" todd's hot rods
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11:15 PM
PFF
System Bot
bubbajoexxx Member
Posts: 1630 From: Ontario Canada Registered: Aug 2003
Which bearing/hub assemblies are you planning to use with the C5 knuckles?
When ever you get a chance could you measure the seat/flange area of the C5 knuckle and post it here or email it to me. I am very curious about what it would take to adapt the C4 bearing to it.
I have all the rear bearing parts for the c5 if you need dimensions thats what is being used on the stretch
Got the hubs in the rear hub carriers. These are C4 hubs: Also mocked up the rear suspension to make sure everything works: 13 inch curved vane rotors, 18x9.5 rims Everything looks peachy. I will do the rear upper a-arms and detail work on the rear suspension tommorow.
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08:21 PM
Feb 12th, 2005
bubbajoexxx Member
Posts: 1630 From: Ontario Canada Registered: Aug 2003
Got the hubs in the rear hub carriers. These are C4 hubs: Also mocked up the rear suspension to make sure everything works: 13 inch curved vane rotors, 18x9.5 rims Everything looks peachy. I will do the rear upper a-arms and detail work on the rear suspension tommorow.
Got the seat mounts tubes in: Also mounted the steering servo and mocked up the shafts. I was worried about binding but no problem. Also made the rear sway bar mounts and brackets for the upper a-arms. WIth these brackets i can adjust camber with simple shims, I can also adjust dive and roll center height with different brackets, and I can change camber gain by using a spacer behind the bracket. There are tubes thru the frame for the attachment bolts. I'm using a 3 inch per turn rack and a medium servo.
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09:51 PM
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
I bet you can leap over tall buildings with a single bound too (my wife can!). On a seperate note, won't that single shock cause the knuckle to twist or is there something going on here that I am unaware of (please educate me, always eager to learn).
TEdit for typeos, too many beers to type straight............
I've been working on all the little brackets which don't rate pictures. Today I started on the front suspension. I priced lower ball joints for the C5 corvette and they were $112....each. I decided to modify the spindles to use the big Chrysler ball joints which are threaded and are only $12 each. The ball joints are pretty much the same size but the C5 ball joint has a 2 in 12 inch taper and the Chrysler has a 1.5 in 12 taper. I have ball joint reamers so this took all of five minutes. The steering arm was cut off the spindles as it's in the wrong place for the car and a new bolt-on steering arm was made. This has a five inch arm which will give slightly more that 30 degrees of steering lock each way and the ackerman was set at 100%. The steering tie rod taper was changed to a 5/8 ID tube to allow the use of a Heim end so that bump can be adjusted. I also got threaded sleeves for the ball joints so I can make the lower a-arms this week end.
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08:34 PM
toddshotrods Member
Posts: 1177 From: Columbus, OH, USA Registered: Aug 2004
Yeah, I knew that. The right front is the left rear. I had to go to the hospital this morning to get a chunk of Fiero out of my eye so I'm doing the pirate thing today. Worked on the front redesign to change from the C4 to the C5 layout and ran into a BIG problem. There isn't any way I can get the front of the chassis to work with the C5 upper a-arms without some really ugly brackets. Unless I can come up with something, it looks like I build a new front clip. Todd: I'm keeping the C5 upper balljoints as these will come with the uprights if bought used. Bubba: If you need any more of those ventilated shirts I got a few you can have.
[This message has been edited by gusshotrod (edited 02-21-2005).]
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05:19 PM
jsmorter1 Member
Posts: 674 From: Creston, Ohio Registered: Jun 2004
Yeah, I knew that. The right front is the left rear. I had to go to the hospital this morning to get a chunk of Fiero out of my eye so I'm doing the pirate think today. Worked on the front redesign to change from the C4 to the C5 layout and ran into a BIG problem. There isn't any way I can get the front of the chassis to work with the C5 upper a-arms without some really ugly brackets. Unless I can come up with something, it looks like I build a new front clip. Todd: I'm keeping the C5 upper balljoints as thes will come with the uprights if bought used. Bubba: If you need any more of those ventilated shirts I got a few you can have.
I guess you play those games with the grinder as well them shirts burn to easy
have you thought of using the new aftermarket Nova splindles they are real short and will except corvair hubs and you can mount the vette brakes on as there is no brake adapter on them you have to make your own as it has provisons to bolt the adapter of your choice
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06:38 PM
toddshotrods Member
Posts: 1177 From: Columbus, OH, USA Registered: Aug 2004
Is it the increased knuckle height that makes the UCA brackets look ugly? What about a bolt-in structure that would mount and bridge the UCA's? I am planning on running something like this, but my reason is to be able to switch between more aggressive geometry for the track and back to "mild" for the street. That can actually be accomplished with a second set of holes in the brackets, but I like modular design.
------------------ Todd Perkins - the member formerly known as "perkidelic" todd's hot rods
The problem isn't the spindle height, it's the spindle offset, which puts the upper ball joint much farther out than the C4. If the correct length upper a-arm is used, the inner pick up point is too far away from the frame. I'll see what I can do with Todd's suggestion.
[This message has been edited by gusshotrod (edited 02-19-2005).]
Well, I guess there's only one way to do this right. I cut off the clip today and cleaned up the frame for the new clip. At no time did the needle on the fun meter move off zero. Should have the new clip on by this week end.
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06:11 PM
bubbajoexxx Member
Posts: 1630 From: Ontario Canada Registered: Aug 2003
Well, I guess there's only one way to do this right. I cut off the clip today and cleaned up the frame for the new clip. At no time did the needle on the fun meter move off zero. Should have the new clip on by this week end.
