Amazing... You make it look WAAAAYYYY too easy. If I keep following this thread, you're going to make me think I should try something and it's probably not going to look pretty when I'm done...Can't wait to see it thru.
Bob
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10:09 AM
FastFieros Member
Posts: 2698 From: Dallas Texas USA Registered: Nov 2000
The front suspension so far. Should have this wrapped up tomorrow.
did you add crush sleves where bolts go though the tubing and why did you use square tube not DOM for the lower control arm as DOM is alot stronger and is avalable in 1 inch OD with 7/16 ID your work is progressing great and it is a very nice job and desine
See.... here I am trying to find a bummed Fiero to buy and fix up. And here YOU are building one by hand... this sucks... welp, time to do what i should have done a long time ago... hang myself... thanks guy. Lates
------------------ ~ My name is Jimbo, and I need a Fiero.. please help me :(
Yeah, crush sleeves on all bolts through tubing. I used square tube on some of the lower a-arm pieces because of the bending loads from the shock and sway bar. Square tube is stonger in bending. All the A-arms are done and I mounted the sway bar. There is five degrees of caster built in. I think you can see the anti-dive built into the upper a-arm brackets. RIght now I'm trying to decide if I want to run the coil-overs inboard or outboard. I have it designed both ways. I'll drag this thing outside this week end and get some overall pics.
[This message has been edited by gusshotrod (edited 03-01-2005).]
I've got measurements on everything. Sample of part of dwg:
since you have the rear chassie stretched why not go with side mounted rads in series as I did no need for long cooling tubes and mount a front fuel tank
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02:41 PM
bubbajoexxx Member
Posts: 1630 From: Ontario Canada Registered: Aug 2003
Yeah, crush sleeves on all bolts through tubing. I used square tube on some of the lower a-arm pieces because of the bending loads from the shock and sway bar. Square tube is stonger in bending. All the A-arms are done and I mounted the sway bar. There is five degrees of caster built in. I think you can see the anti-dive built into the upper a-arm brackets. RIght now I'm trying to decide if I want to run the coil-overs inboard or outboard. I have it designed both ways. I'll drag this thing outside this week end and get some overall pics.
inboard would be the best if you dont mind building the bellcranks and going F1 style with the right coilover for the left wheel and the left coilover for the right wheel it would keep a lot of weight of the lower control arm
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 03-02-2005).]
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02:47 PM
Will Member
Posts: 14249 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
I've decided to mount the coil overs outboard. The difference in unsprung weight is minimal. Inboard would look trick but I don't think it's going to make enough difference in handling to notice. The radiator is going up front because of the 406 engine, which can be a bear to cool. I also don't want to worry about a tire shreading at speed taking out a radiator.
i was just looking through a magazine article about the new zo6. it is supposed to have a completely aluminum frame! aluminum . . . you say we might be lucky enough to get a copy of those plans?!
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08:23 AM
opm2000 Member
Posts: 1347 From: Versailles, Ky USA Heart of the Bluegrass Registered: Dec 2000
Just out of curiosity, for those of us who might try a similar project (once your plans are realeased ;> ) are you mig welding everything, or have some of the welds required tig?
David Breeze
------------------ Pantera Rebody Kits
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09:11 AM
Mar 5th, 2005
bubbajoexxx Member
Posts: 1630 From: Ontario Canada Registered: Aug 2003
About the welding: It depends on what material you want to use. I used Mig on everything. Some of the radius rods need pre-heat and slow cool because of the Moly ends. If TIG was used you could bypass this step. You could substitute moly tube for most of the car if you wanted which would then have to be TIG welded. The sheet metal could be TIG or MIG, whatever you are comfortable with.
The front suspension is finished. I didn't like the rear upper a-arms so I am redoing them, then I will get it outside and get some good pics (maybe tomorrow).
I bought a power steering tank off EBAY and it came with this weld at no extra cost: Sleeves welded into rear a-arm brackets: Finished front suspension:
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12:40 AM
R Runner Member
Posts: 3694 From: Scottsville, KY Registered: Feb 2003
wow. amazing. stunned. I don't know what else to say.
------------------ Paul Home Built Tube Chassis IMSA Race Car - 3.8 lb./hp | 1987 Fiero GT 119,xxx, 3.1 motor, HHP swaybar, Full poly For more IMSA Fiero info: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/789315
I don't know what it weighs, but I can lift it. As for making parts for sale, right now what I need is more time. Lots of sheet metal work coming up, also headers. Still got a few things to finish on the frame also. At least I got the garage cleaned up (a little).
ok ill give you all i got......like $7 and some odd change... deal? c,mon you dont need that cluttering up your driveway! i go plenty of room to keep it and ill even put it to good use with my SBC!!! I SWEAR!!!!
------------------
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12:55 AM
fierohoho Member
Posts: 3494 From: Corner of No and Where Registered: Apr 2001
wow, can you guys picture me lifting a stock frame!? would it weigh maybe 500 pounds?[/QUOTE
Just the space frame with everything removed I bet you could lift it.
Im a bodybuilder/weightlifter/powerlifter and I cant lift a stock space frame up by myself, just one end or the other. Of course it is too bulky to get to the center of gravity in order to try to lift it completly off the ground. Regardless, it must weigh at least 800lbs. Gusshotrod, that frame is a work of art
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 03-09-2005).]
thanks Norm 
)
