no, it hasn't died,
you're still working on yours,
i'm in just in between coats of mine. i'll keep posting to this thread unless you guys think we should start a new thread of our combined experiments. ^_^
i shall be painting at the least, both mirrors, the rocker panels, the wing, the center of the decklid, the center of the hood.
i'm just busy doing my rear suspension and taillight mod this week, but i intend to do a mirror and rocker panel coat tomorrow.
i'm going beyond just the rolling on of a base, and intend to finish with airbrushed clear/metal flake. if you want entertainment, stay tuned and see what a pig's breakfast i make of it...

Holidays slowing me down. I'll be putting my sixth coat on tomarrow and will then sand again. I'll take a couple of pictures and post in a couple of days. I'm doing white paint and the 5th coat finally covered everything.

Yea, I've been doing yellow and it will probably take 20-30 coats at least.
I had really hoped to see better results but I keep asking myself why I have my back to my air compressor and spray guns while I keep trying to get the roller to work.

Just wanted to try it I guess-------will continue trying on this test quarter panel. WE will see.

Thinking of taking another spare panel and spraying it----for comparison sake.

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Proud Member of the North Florida Fiero club

4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- more to come--

Today-----wetsand and another coat--


Edit: to add pictures taken immediately after applying wet paint-----yea, don't we wish it was that glossy--lol
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Proud Member of the North Florida Fiero club

4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- more to come--

[This message has been edited by jeffndebrus (edited 12-28-2006).]

quote Originally posted by jeffndebrus: This morning the panel looks kind of dull-------------I must admit I am having a difficult time keeping interest. It seems others have had better results right from the start.

What you may be experiencing there is something called "bloom"; it happens during dew or very high humidity, which is why you don't want to expose freshly painted parts to outside air at night, particularly well after sunset. I had it happen on a boat I was painting; it was duller than Forrest Gump.

quote Originally posted by jeffndebrus: Yea, I've been doing yellow and it will probably take 20-30 coats at least. I had really hoped to see better results but I keep asking myself why I have my back to my air compressor and spray guns while I keep trying to get the roller to work. Just wanted to try it I guess-------will continue trying on this test quarter panel. WE will see. Thinking of taking another spare panel and spraying it----for comparison sake.

something that may help would be to have given the panel a couple coats of white first, then yellow. Yellow is bright and almost translucent like and will need a lot of coverage if the surface behind it has any dark spots. Usually when cars are professionally painted, they will lay down a base coat of white before spraying and bright colors like that

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Fiero- mild 2.9 160hp
Caprice- wild 383 500hp
--Adam-- ASE Certified Technician
IM AOL: FieroGT5speed

^^ agreed, a yellow primer would help allot also. I think I will use yellow primer when I do my car in red.

Yes,
last night was damp and cold and checking this morning the paint is dull looking---not dry and did not self level very well as there are ridges where the roller went every two inches.
Yes, I agree primer is a must before using yellow. I had sanded down to the plastic in the middle of the panel and the black is very dominant through the yellow.

[This message has been edited by jeffndebrus (edited 12-29-2006).]

now you're making progress.
what is your average interval between coats?
i've been tied up with my rear control arms the last few days, and haven't had a chance to do my mirror and rocker panel.
it's looking good though, and should be nice'n dry now. i'll coat again this weekend, and do my colorsand. this is the coat that will decide whether or not it's the last coat. from there out, it will get airbrushed clear coats.

This is a test bed for the method originally described on the Mopar boards. That is why I am trying to stick to those directions of a mixture of 50% Gloss Rustoleum Professional/ and 50% mineral spirits using the high density roller to apply. With a small electric heater aimed directly at the panel I have been able to recoat in 1-2 hours. About 8 hours before wetsanding with 600 grit paper.
I have run into several problems along the way
Problem Solution
Incurable bubbles. Switched from yellow open pore roller to high density.
Blushing Added small electric heater.
bugs close the garage door---paint at low bug times of day

If anyone is interested?????????
I could finish the panel with a few more coates of paint--final sanding and then polishing
Then fix the panel outdoors and monitor it with pictures over a period of time as the Florida sun and rain take their course of action.
If anyone is interested-------otherwise I will not waste Cliff's bandwidth.

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Proud Member of the North Florida Fiero club

4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- more to come--

quote Originally posted by jeffndebrus: This is a test bed for the method originally described on the Mopar boards. That is why I am trying to stick to those directions of a mixture of 50% Gloss Rustoleum Professional/ and 50% mineral spirits using the high density roller to apply. With a small electric heater aimed directly at the panel I have been able to recoat in 1-2 hours. About 8 hours before wetsanding with 600 grit paper. I have run into several problems along the way Problem Solution Incurable bubbles. Switched from yellow open pore roller to high density. Blushing Added small electric heater. bugs close the garage door---paint at low bug times of day If anyone is interested????????? I could finish the panel with a few more coates of paint--final sanding and then polishing Then fix the panel outdoors and monitor it with pictures over a period of time as the Florida sun and rain take their course of action. If anyone is interested-------otherwise I will not waste Cliff's bandwidth.

interested

I'm interested to, unfortunately it will be to late, I'm diving in anyway.

I think the yellow is too bright to use on a black panel, You need to primer with a bright type of primer.
Did you mix 50 mineral spirits and 50percent rust- Oleum ?
Did you per chance shake the canister, Rustoleum takes a week to settle if you shake it.

When You mix the spirits and paint, You stir slowly.

I have a extra black panel that I will test a brighter color on next week.

Thanks Earl,
the panel was actually white but the paint had cracks in it so I sanded to the black plastic in several areas. Last night Paulcal came over and in between checking the Turkey in the fryer we applied a couple coats of rubbing compound and buffed them off with a powerball.
The panel is coming along but certainly does not shine to my liking. There is about ten coats of the 50/50 mixture. Wetsanded with 600 grit between every two coats.
I will purchase "white polishing compound" and repeat the buffing to see if I can bring up a nicer shine.
Here is a pic.

The plastic is really white, but has a black primer. Hopefully it polishes out for you.

I love fried turkey.

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I'd rather own a real fiero than a fake Ferrari.


having rice that can run 11's...is kinda like coming out of the closet....your going to surprise a lot of people....but in the end your still gay

Nitrous is neat
turbos are hard to beat
but when it comes down to it i would rather be BLOWN!

I may be wrong but I seem to recall reading in the original post that regular rubbing compound would not produce a good gloss with this paint. I'm thinking wet sand with very fine paper, say 1800 or 2000 grit and then power buff with finishing compound, like a swirl remover. Before you use regular compound it might pay to check the thread on the Mopar forum where this all started.

Went over it three times this morning with Turtle wax brand "white polishing compound" using the Mothers Powerball for application and then hand rubbing with a terry cloth.
I am still not completely satisfied with the shine although it is steadily improving.
Another problem is----at this rate it would take 2 years to paint a car this way.
Still working on it-----will prolly go over it again with the white polishing compound. If that does not satisfy me then I will probably intiate exterior gloss spar polyurethane as a topcoat and see how that looks.
pic:



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Proud Member of the North Florida Fiero club

4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- more to come--

[This message has been edited by jeffndebrus (edited 01-03-2007).]

I always use white for a base on yellow. It also is not a bad idea to put down red primer (you can get color primers) for some reds. I dont usually because I use red oxide primer on all except silver cars where I use gray. The yellow looks pretty good. Without hardener, shouldnt you wait for a month before trying to buff it, I didnt know rustoleum dried fast enough.

Btw, I like the side scoops on the other blueish-green car. Nice work and fits the car great.

Wow, thanks rogergarrison,
I never expected you to look at a roller paint thread-lol.

The IMSA car is a DGP widebody with House of Kolor kandy green.---no rollerpainted rustoleum there.

I agree that the experiment would have gone faster if I had primed the panel first.--faster and more even coverage.
I am not sure about waiting to buff? That's a good point, and a good question.

The reason I am looking into this is because I had a horrible experience with Maaco a few years ago which I won't go into again here. I have a compressor and spray guns but I do not have a spray booth.
This method is forgiving as you can easily sand out imperfections and recoat as needed.

Has anyone tried to spray this with a low pressure high volume spray gun? Would it be as forgiving and not have as much over spray?

send me one and I'll try it

quote Originally posted by jmbishop: send me one and I'll try it

if I had one

Last summer I painted a baby changing table with Rustoleum satin white using an HVLP gun. You have to really thin it down and that makes it extremely easy to run. It took about 6 coats to completely cover but each coat flowed out nice and flat and dried hard and smooth. It was a mess to work with, but it turned out real nice. I'll have to experiment with different ratios if I can find the time.

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1986 SE 350 V8

I have a compressor and hvlp guns.

My thoughts about that were:
1) If I am going to spray, why not use automotive paint?
2) Puts me back to I do not have a spray booth. Yes, I could clean out the garage and build a bisqueen tent and use a filter at one end and an a/c unit to reomove humidity etc etc. Or, I could build a small booth and just do a panel at a time but then I would be in the hole for a ton of new fasteners and still have to paint the roof and rear clip on the car without a lot of extra work.
3) So, when I saw this method I decided to at least try it out for myself. I think it would take a lot longer and require a lot more work to use the roller method because on average according to the Mopar boards and my own experience it takes ten coats to look decent. That's a lot of dry time and a lot of wetsanding in between. If your Fiero is your only car this could be aggravating.

R&M/BASF make a new primer thats high build and designed to be put on with a roller, they even supply one.

Wow, last night before I left for work I applied one coat of exterior spar urethane using the 50/50 thinning mixture as before.
I just got home and went out to check it and was very surprised and pleased.
pics:

I can't thank you enough for doing this. Now we just need to know how it will hold up.

quote Originally posted by jmbishop: I can't thank you enough for doing this. Now we just need to know how it will hold up.

You're welcome,
As stated previously in this post, when I finish the panel I will be fixing it outdoors so the Florida sun and rain can torment it. I will update with pics periodically.

I have to stop and get finer wet/dry paper and would like to gently sand this clear coat and apply one more final coat. I know it's hard to tell with the resized pic but if you look at the upper left hand corner you can see the reflection of the heater fan on the panel. I'm more impressed now than ever.
Keeps ya posted.

[This message has been edited by jeffndebrus (edited 01-06-2007).]

So far is the paint drying pretty hard?

I had my car painted about 2 years ago with just an enamel paint and now everything scratches the finish so I want my next paint job to be a bit more stout.

Daniel

Daniel,
That is a good question. I think this method will not produce near as hard a finish as factory.

The kandy green House of colors on the IMSA looks great however it must be very hard but brittle because it has several areas that more or less shattered cracked the paint when the bumpers touched things.

quote Originally posted by jeffndebrus: I think this method will not produce near as hard a finish as factory.

Isn't this a good thing though? I'm thinking that having something more flexible would be a little better when it comes to plastic and fiberglass, not to mention stuff that hits the car while driving 70 mph...

here's coat 4 on my mirror:

got lotsa little thingies in the paint, i think its debris from the foam brush. from here on out, i wash them before use.
Morty there is in-frame illustrating the gloss level it achieves as it dries. it levels well when its thinned more than the can recommends. it goes on much thinner, and i bet won't need as much drying time between color sands.
one more color coat, then i start experimenting with clear spar urethane and red and gold metal flake, sprayed thru my airbrush.
(i may airbrush 'kick me' on the back of the penguin, just for fun. he's got it coming, the little creep. last night he drank 12 bourbon and clamatos and loosened all my lug nuts. his species may not be Endangered, but he sure is...)

[This message has been edited by TorqueWench (edited 01-08-2007).]

Today I applied a second and most likely last coat of exterior spar urethane.
I am pleased.- 10 coats Professional grade rustoleum mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits applied with high density foam roller and wetsanded with 600 wet paper in between every two coats. Followed by two coats of exterior gloss spar urethane. After full drying-polish with white polishing compound.
Pics:






I agree with the idea of washing a new roller before use. They are filled with dust from manufacture.

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Proud Member of the North Florida Fiero club

4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- more to come--

very pretty.
do you need to sand the clear before applying another coat?
i'm not using the professional version of rust-oleum, and am not sure this regular protective enamel will be hard enough, but we'll see. it seems that lots of very thin coats dried hard and uniform is better than a few thicker coats that would be more gummy. i would hope that the spar urethane would help even the odds even more.

Is there an actual 'how to' thread on doing this brush painting? Like... is the $50 paint job thread a real thread 'cause I can't find it.

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Fiero with a 2.8 V6, Isuzu 5-speed, Performance Sound, Sprint Exhaust Manifolds and a real pretty interior. :D

the inspiration for me and a couple of others here came from a long-running similar thread on a mopar forum.
go here,
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.ph...
and then here
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.ph...

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

check out this guys Corvair.