(edit) Woooooooooooooo! first time owning a page. go me. iss my burfday.
thanks!
so is the general concensus that we should apply some form of clear coat? I asked Jerry if he thought we should but he said no... I really want to personally.
so, as well as that one panell, I'm also working on my wing. Man, this took FOREVER. I worked slowly and carefully but it took me long enough to watch 2 and a half episodes of CSI and half of Bruce Almighty!

[This message has been edited by BekaintaFunk (edited 02-27-2007).]

to clear or not to clear...

i'm gonna clear, because i intend to airbrush it on with red and gold metal flake mixed in, 'cuz i'm gigi like dat.
and if i had my way, i'd just encase the whole car in a solid block of lucite, and be done with it. i hate faded paint, y'see, and want to forestall it any way i can.
i read the Moparts threads over several times to glean the nub of the gist of their rap. half the point of using 'tremclad', was because it is so hard and flows out so glossy, that it can obviate the need for a separate clear. i dunno if i buy that, if only because i don't want to be out there doing it over again in a year or two. on the other hand, use of a good polymer resin-type wax may/might/could/should/supposedly give another protective layer to the paint.
the bottom line i suppose -
if i don't clearcoat a particular panel, i would certainly polish the pus outta it, and put more wax on it than the George Hamilton figure in Madame Toussauld's Museum.
keep goin' - i can't wait to see more from everyone here...!

Although I spent some serious time on our test panel I am having my doubts as to the durability of this system. The automotive paints are a catalyst system that uses a hardener and I am betting it's that way for a reason.
Since I have a compressor/ spray guns and have now bought a portable carport with enough plastic sheeting and duct tape to make a temporary spraybooth-------I am looking at possibly going the full route with a basecoat clearcoat urethane but will have to build a fresh air respirator system---which I also have plans for.

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Proud Member of the North Florida Fiero club

4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- more to come--

Wench, there you go doing it again, giving me shivers in the knee bones with the word "contingent". While I can just imagine your Robert Morley impression may I suggest going easy on your larynx; you may need it for a long time. Good work on the paint, tough luck on the mirror.

quote Originally posted by David DeVoe: Wench, there you go doing it again, giving me shivers in the knee bones with the word "contingent". While I can just imagine your Robert Morley impression may I suggest going easy on your larynx; you may need it for a long time. Good work on the paint, tough luck on the mirror.

Good Lord man------
Why don't you call Delilah's radio show tonight------dedicate a song -----and ask her to Marry you?????

quote Originally posted by jeffndebrus: Good Lord man------ Why don't you call Delilah's radio show tonight------dedicate a song -----and ask her to Marry you?????

Better like chinchillas and penguins.

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Whade' "The Duck Formerly Known As Wade" Duck
'87 GT Auto
'88 Ferrario
'84 Indy (8/26/06)

Relax! You've managed to suck all of the fun out of the room.

david, don't sweat it. i appreciate the attention

best name for a penguin ever: 'Peckinpah'

i painted the greenhouse of my Fieromodel black today, along with the wing. what do you think?

should i paint the hood in some way too? or the hump in the decklid?
i still need to do the side vent, the marker lights, and tint the rear window and sunroof, and do some facsimile of my taillight mod on the model's. but it's starting to look the way i envision my actual GT looking when i get it all painted. woo!

has anyone filled in the molded side trim? i don't mean smoothing it/erasing it, but rather shaping it to be a smooth rounded shape, then painted over it? seems that would be a viable alternative to either painting it black again, or trying to shave it all off and fill.

[This message has been edited by TorqueWench (edited 02-28-2007).]

i love that model! its looking good i have a camaro one that im never going to finish because I'm too lazy!

ok. so. i was sanding my pannel, getting it ready for its fourth coat and i wet sanded it with 1000 grit just to see what it was like. when i dried it off it was all greyish(im doing black paint for those that arent observent). i know that happens when you sand but is that gonna happen when i go to do the finishing sanding? should i get a higher grit paper or what? i dont want do my last coat then when i go to sand it, it turns dark grey and not very glossy....

thanks, i wish i could just get it enlarged so i could drive it around, then shrink the actual car down to a manageable size, and work on it on my living room table. ^_^
(arcane reference - i'll call the C.M.D.F)

addressing your concerns - you want the dull. you want it to be as completely uniformly dull as you can get it. that means you've taken the top glossy layer off and leveled the crests and troughs in the texture of the dried paint.
when you are ready to do the final sand and polish, even then you'll take it down from the glossiness you start with, to a drab dullness, so you can use higher grits til you've done the panel with 2000grit.
some things:
don't let the residue build up on the paper. when you sand an area, and you start getting a bit of colored water and the grit is clogged with residue, take your rag or folded over paper towel and wipe the area so you can see what you've done.
(i often blow on the area to speed-dry it so i can see the surface texture better. working under a bright lamp helps a lot.
as you've noticed by now, when the area gets very wet it looks like a showroom shine. when it dries, you see the streaks and/or spots where you've missed)
rinse in your water, then dip in the soapy bowl again, and repeat. you want to have clean papers as much of the time as possible, so you can control how much you take off. this will also let you feel when the piece of paper has lost its effective grit, so you can dispose of it and select another.
keep goin!
- - -
i worked on stripping a headlamp cover tonight. it has 7!!!! layers to remove. 3 color, 2 primer, and 2 clearcoats. my arm is ready to dissolve... ow. : /

well thanks, i'll keep all that in mind. i could possibly be doing my last layer on my panell tonight... then finishing the wing.... then the REST of the car....yaaaay.

we're probably going to get a buffer too, so that'l help come wax time!

tomorrow better be nice weather because its Fiero day for me and Jerry! (well... almost everyday is some sort of Fiero day for us! ) hes doing my head switch (hopefully..if all is well) and im gonna be doing some hard core painting!

well.... im off to watch some paint dry!

get a polisher


also, if you are using a plan sander or a DA, get some 3000 grit called trizac. its made by 3m and desinged to be wetsanded with. its the **** . use it before you polish. the higher the grit, the easier it will buff.

you need to get a cutting compound, and polish and a glaze.

this is the way we wash our stuff, wash our stuff
this is the way we wash our stuff so early in the morn-ing

What are you doing up so late young man? Oh wait, just saw the other thread. Nevermind. I know now.

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Whade' "The Duck Formerly Known As Wade" Duck
'87 GT Auto
'88 Ferrario
'84 Indy (8/26/06)

Relax! You've managed to suck all of the fun out of the room.

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: this is the way we wash our stuff, wash our stuff this is the way we wash our stuff so early in the morn-ing

I would be soooo dead if I tried that

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1984 Fiero SE

as your parents and their parents and their parents always said, My House, My Rules
our living room at 2-3am...

Looking nice so far BobadooFunk, looks like you stole my method of washing body panels. Keep the pictures comming.

So before starting painting, sand with 400 grit, 800 grit, then prime, then 800 grit, then start painting. Or am I just doing to much work? Time is no issue, a long with hard work. I will gladly sand longer if it means a better outcome.


Cory

With this method priming is not needed. Just sand with a 800 grit till the clear coat is off. Will seem dull, then your good to go.

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You never know what will happen next.

http://ParaStatic.sytes.net

[This message has been edited by ParaStatic (edited 03-01-2007).]

quote Originally posted by TorqueWench: david, don't sweat it. i appreciate the attention best name for a penguin ever: 'Peckinpah' i painted the greenhouse of my Fieromodel black today, along with the wing. what do you think? should i paint the hood in some way too? or the hump in the decklid? i still need to do the side vent, the marker lights, and tint the rear window and sunroof, and do some facsimile of my taillight mod on the model's. but it's starting to look the way i envision my actual GT looking when i get it all painted. woo! has anyone filled in the molded side trim? i don't mean smoothing it/erasing it, but rather shaping it to be a smooth rounded shape, then painted over it? seems that would be a viable alternative to either painting it black again, or trying to shave it all off and fill.

Looks good!

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: as your parents and their parents and their parents always said, My House, My Rules our living room at 2-3am...

and not a single black spot on the white carpeting.. very very impressive!!!!

seeing as i still live in my parents house (keep in mind im only 19) im not allowed to do anythign liek that in the house.. and even when im outside i still manage to make a mess all over everything.. i dyed 4 square feet of our grass this past summer red.. jstu trying to mix my saftey red rustoleum and mineral sprints lol.. looked like i killed the dog or sumthing..

[This message has been edited by ibshile (edited 03-03-2007).]

I have been back and forth on continuing what I had started earlier in the thread. I was pretty set on a Yellow Fiero and I'd hate not to have the car the way I want it for the difference of a few hundred bucks of an Econo job. Of course it's not just the $500, it's the fact that I know the Econo job will suck for 3 - 5 years and fall off. There's also the hassle of cleaning up the overspray and dealing with the shop on whatever they will inevitably screw up. Either way, it's all about the prep work and this paint is in bad shape. I started over today and decided to sand out any rough spots. That's taken it down to primer in many places. The current plan is to prep all panels and start with painting the underside of the deck and hood while they're off. I read about using the bumper paint for the underside, they say it's a pretty close match to the factory finish. The underside of may panels look awful. Ir's getting warmer in Raleigh, so I hope to post progress pics soon.

still going the hood is done, ill get a pic tomorrow

BUrrrr looks cold. With it that cold, I would give it a good 24 hours before recoats.

quote Originally posted by ParaStatic: BUrrrr looks cold. With it that cold, I would give it a good 24 hours before recoats.

yea we are

im not exactly a fan of the multi-color parts look, but i would say its starting to look pretty good for home made!

quote Originally posted by ibshile: i dyed 4 square feet of our grass this past summer red.. jstu trying to mix my saftey red rustoleum and mineral sprints lol.. looked like i killed the dog or sumthing..

That sounds like a good story I think, but does it explain where Sparky went?

quote Originally posted by BekaintaFunk: im not exactly a fan of the multi-color parts look, but i would say its starting to look pretty good for home made!

Please tell me your gonna paint the rest black. That looks sick! I've been wanting to re-paint my car but I wanted to see what the black looked like before I tried it.

i was thinking about going for the old police car look.... naah j/k. its gonna be all black with some purple details, but its kinda hard to paint when ITS ONLY 16 FREEKING DEGREES!


.
.
....has anyone else whos done this gotten headaches??? it seems after a long paint session i get a really bad headache and last night when i layed down in bed i felt like i was suffocating! the smell is just...wooow. i know its probably not good to be painting car parts in the living room, but theres really no other place... i mean... i keep the window open ..and stuff...

Yeah, it's called ventillation. Try a large box fan in the window, blowing outward. Sleep on the opposite side of the house you paint/store the painted part on. After a few years you won't even smell the paint anymore. Or much of anything else, really...

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1984 Fiero SE

Are you using the orderless mineral spirits? I did not think it smelled to bad when I did mine, and that was with using a Kerosene heater. :O

btw it is looking great so far, keep up the good work.

[This message has been edited by ParaStatic (edited 03-07-2007).]

Yeah, the headache's are from the paint fumes. It's like sniffing on a super-large permanent marker for hours at a time.

Simply ventilate. The idea of a box fan in a window is good one.

Keep it coming!

yea i try to keep the window open as much as possible but im gonna put a fan in the window aswell. i think its the paint itself that smells bad.

well since Jerrys at work and i dont have anything else to do, i got three packs of hot hands and alll night to spend painting/getting the car ready for the new head!

...what i would give for some warm weather...

So does that Rustoleum have enough resistance to flexing? Has anyone flexed a panel after it dries to see if it'll crack? Looks pretty damn good for a $50 style job btw!

AAAAAGGGGHHHHH!!


i had a very disapointing sad night. i went outside to start getting ready for the new head by taking stuff apart, because i figured.. ive watched Jerry do it plenty times, it should be easy. but i couldnt remember anything! so i gave that up and tried taking the deck lid off so i could start painting it... and i cant get that peice off that looks like a torque shape but with a thingy in the middle(sorry for my extreem female car language). im guessing its what holds up the deck lid when its up. so that all sucked.

THEN i figured since i was out there and had hot hands to keep me warm i would try painting. well, since we have a microscopic garage i couldnt manage to get to the pasenger side of the car to add another layer to a peice i was painting. so i figured i would do the ...umm... top part? i forgot what its called.... the top of the car! whatever. and not only do i have to crawl all over the car to try and wet sand, but it being 20 some degrees out made the water instantly freeze. so after cleaning up what i maneged to sand i said screw it. i cant do the best i can with the details of painting when im trying to balance on the windsheild. i just wish i had a freeking nice garage!!! and warm weather! ........:: sigh :: im just really frustrated right now.

You don't need to get the "torque thingy" off to remove the decklid. Should just be four 13mm bolts (2 on each side). I'll be right back. I'll see if I can snap a pic for you.

Edited to add a picture.


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Whade' "The Duck Formerly Known As Wade" Duck
'87 GT Auto
'88 Ferrario
'84 Indy (8/26/06)

Relax! You've managed to suck all of the fun out of the room.

[This message has been edited by whadeduck (edited 03-07-2007).]

Mine was missing that bottom bolt on both sides when I got it- took me a few minutes to figure out why it wasn't setting down all the way when closed!

I've got to repaint my car and I'm thinking of the Rustoleum route.

Please keep the pictures comin'!

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Kendall (Icelander) Whitlatch
'85 Fiero 2M4 - 5spd Isuzu
'67 LeMans/GTO clone 6.5 litre TH400
All the rest aren't Pontiacs, so what does it matter?

quote Originally posted by whadeduck: You don't need to get the "torque thingy" off to remove the decklid. Should just be four 13mm bolts (2 on each side). I'll be right back. I'll see if I can snap a pic for you. Edited to add a picture.

...well shows how much i know. atleast when i come home from work tomorrow, Jerry willl have it in the living room ready for some bondo and paint! speaking of which, whats the best way to go about attatching that nice wing i got(pictured above) to my deck lid.... should i make holes first before paint? do i even need new ones(it has the luggage rack on it now but we're taking that off and making it smooth)? i need as much advice as i can get!

EDIT: this was sposed to be posted be me, BekaintaFunk, but i didnt know Bobadoo was already logged in! woops

[This message has been edited by BobadooFunk (edited 03-08-2007).]

BE CAREFUL! There's a lot of energy stored in the decklid spring, and you don't want to shatter the rear window.

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: ...well shows how much i know. atleast when i come home from work tomorrow, Jerry willl have it in the living room ready for some bondo and paint! speaking of which, whats the best way to go about attatching that nice wing i got(pictured above) to my deck lid.... should i make holes first before paint? do i even need new ones(it has the luggage rack on it now but we're taking that off and making it smooth)? i need as much advice as i can get! EDIT: this was sposed to be posted be me, BekaintaFunk, but i didnt know Bobadoo was already logged in! woops

I don't believe any of the holes for the stock luggage rack line up with the ones needed for the spoiler. I would put the holes in before you sand and paint. That way, in case of a wandering drill bit or crack in the material it could be fixed when you do everything else.

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Whade' "The Duck Formerly Known As Wade" Duck
'87 GT Auto
'88 Ferrario
'84 Indy (8/26/06)

Relax! You've managed to suck all of the fun out of the room.