WOW! I am loving this thread. If I have over looked this question please forgive me. "Is this paint sprayable?" I am interested in trying this myself especially if you can spray it. I also love the http://www.paintwithpearl.com/ link. If this stuff is sprayable and you can put that "Cheap" pearl into it. ITS GAME TIME!

BTW... Added to my favs.

Edit for.... OH!! I am page 9 Owner! WOOT

[This message has been edited by GADJet (edited 11-18-2010).]

Yes, you can spray it with pretty good results. I recently finished my 85 GT and it turned out pretty good. The basic problem is, it drys slowly, so even if you get it painted without dirt, it llikely will have some dirt before it is totally dry. In the late 60's-early '70's, I painted a few trucks, a Fiat 600, and a bugeye Sprite with Rustoleum, so I knew it would work. The can says thin with 5% acetone, but I thin it much more- up to 25%. I am in the process of painting my 84 with the Regal Red Rusto. I did have a problem with the hood on the 85, getting some solvent pop. I put the car outside on a 80 degree day, just a couple days after painting, so it could bake. When I brought it in the garage, I noticed the solvent pop had appeared. You can only see it on close inspection, but it really should be repainted. Once done, I will post some pics.

[This message has been edited by bjc 350 (edited 11-19-2010).]

i think im going to take the plunge, after looking closer at my cars paint which i already knew was full of drips and scratches looks like some one keyed it , i found a small area where the paint was chipping off, and it turns out my car was a red metallic before, the guy i bought the car from seemed like a good guy but im starting to see he cut alot of corners, even the rear umm windows i think they are called quarter panels...but not exactly sure so il say windows, were a cheap plexi glass with window tint on them

I will share pics of MY Rustoleum paint job tomorrow. The difference is, I totally stripped the paint first, primered and wet sanded it. I only painted the molding, rims and spoiler along with the louvers and area around the wipers thus far. Trying to figure out what color to paint the body. Maybe a two tone. Charcoal grey upper, metallic silver lower.

[This message has been edited by FuryArrow (edited 12-02-2010).]

how did you take the front emblem off? just pry off? or some kinda chemical some one backed into me recently and now its all cracked up

quote Originally posted by Docs87gt: how did you take the front emblem off? just pry off? or some kinda chemical some one backed into me recently and now its all cracked up

I pried it off there will be a whole and a notch it goes into. Its not taped or glued on.

it breaks when you pry it though, usually anyway.

alright heres a stupid question...but when you paint a car and change the color is there any paper work that has to be filed with the dmv or something ?..sorry ive always wondered that

quote Originally posted by Docs87gt: alright heres a stupid question...but when you paint a car and change the color is there any paper work that has to be filed with the dmv or something ?..sorry ive always wondered that

Not a stupid question at all. The answer is, yes. You can get a ticket if you get pulled over & they run your plates and the city, county, or state is hard up for cash. In this economy, yes, report the color change. I'm gonma wait until I get pulled over though. Lol.

did you sand all the way to the plastic and then prime? or did you sand a little off the old paint and prime?, i told myself i would start working today so im trying to get all my ducks in a row, and i noticed you live in california did you paint in your apartment car port? is it legal in cali, i dont want some one hassling me after i start lol

i love this thread... im gonna try it.

EDIT; not gonna try it on the mera...lol but am going to try it on my chevrolet kodiak big truck.

[This message has been edited by mera7 (edited 12-04-2010).]

This is a Rust-Oleum paint job that I did last year.

[This message has been edited by RACE (edited 12-04-2010).]

does the rustoleum cover up scratches ?

quote Originally posted by Docs87gt: did you sand all the way to the plastic and then prime? or did you sand a little off the old paint and prime?, i told myself i would start working today so im trying to get all my ducks in a row, and i noticed you live in california did you paint in your apartment car port? is it legal in cali, i dont want some one hassling me after i start lol

I sanded all the way down to the bare material. No, I didn't paint or primer in the car port. I did it in my friends garage around the corner.

bi have to find a place to paint... one of my buddies said i could paint in his garage but then changed his mind last minute but in his defense he has alot of personal stuff going on ..i just want to get my car finished... maybe if i park my truck infront of my car it no one will notice me paiting.... my original plan was to paint it once piece at a time but i really dont want to leave my car outside without a decklid or hood....in this neighborhood who knows what will happen ive also thought about painting really late at night when all the apartment people are gone or asleep, the maintenance guy lives right across my parking spot and he actually noticed me sanding my car today...he seemed alright even suggested a few colors that would look good but who knows since i turned in my 30 days notice already

It's hard enough to do the right way inside a garage, but outside, too many temperature variations, insects and particals WILL make it's way into your paint. Just hold off until you can get into a garage.

quote Originally posted by Docs87gt: bi have to find a place to paint... one of my buddies said i could paint in his garage but then changed his mind last minute but in his defense he has alot of personal stuff going on ..i just want to get my car finished... maybe if i park my truck infront of my car it no one will notice me paiting.... my original plan was to paint it once piece at a time but i really dont want to leave my car outside without a decklid or hood....in this neighborhood who knows what will happen ive also thought about painting really late at night when all the apartment people are gone or asleep, the maintenance guy lives right across my parking spot and he actually noticed me sanding my car today...he seemed alright even suggested a few colors that would look good but who knows since i turned in my 30 days notice already

Hey BLK 86 FSTBAK GT. Please check your PMs. I was trying to see if you can give me the PN for the clear u used, or Maybe a PIC of the container its on... I have a 86 fastback I am painting safety yellow with rustolium and want to clear it. Thanks.

quote Originally posted by bjc 350: Yes, you can spray it with pretty good results. I recently finished my 85 GT and it turned out pretty good.

I assume this is the 85 you rusto painted? if so, yes it looks great. Exactly how long would you say it took to dry? Thanks.

quote Originally posted by FuryArrow:

I like that you painted the factory wheels, I hope to do that to mine some day.

quote Originally posted by FuryArrow:

this car looks really really clean in person, the pics don't do it justice @ all... if you wanna see a clearer image check out the Christmas parade video by pokeyfiero https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/083695.html

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[This message has been edited by InTheLead (edited 06-23-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Docs87gt: did you sand all the way to the plastic and then prime? or did you sand a little off the old paint and prime?, i told myself i would start working today so im trying to get all my ducks in a row, and i noticed you live in california did you paint in your apartment car port? is it legal in cali, i dont want some one hassling me after i start lol

Good question. I know 4 years ago when I left Cali we could no longer buy oil based paints from the paint suppliers we used at the machine shop. It was so much fun using a water based primer on bare metal...

i started today, and i got a garage, so far ive sanded the body down and taped everything, but i was wondering what do you guys do in between coats and sanding like say i lay a few coats down then sand it, as far washing the car at that point do you take all the tape off? or do you leave it on because taping took a while but i guess the rustoleum paint job is all about work anyways

GADjet, I spray painted the 85 GT with Rustoleum, thinned 20 % with acetone. It flowed out pretty smooth, and dried to the touch overnight at a temp of about 60 to 65 degrees in my shop. To buff it or wet sand it, I would wait a week or more. I am now painting my 84 base coupe with Regal Red Rustoleum. I thinned it 25% on the trunk and hood, and it was more difficult to get it to lay out smooth with minimum orange peel. But, it sprayed out of the gun better. Thinning 25 % did seem to dry a little quicker, but I also had the wood stove on in the shop, which kept the temp around 65 degrees overnight. Keep in mind, I am an amateur painter. I have painted 8 or 9 vehicles in my 66 years with varying results. I just can't see investing a lot of money in a paint job on these cars since the 85 was $300 and the 84-$200. I will post pictures once the 84 is complete, which may be by the end of the week.

i rolled on one coat of paint today, my buddy and i were surprised it didnt actually look bad , actually looked pretty good even before wet sanding not something id be happy with if i paid for it but good for one coat with a roller... now my buddy wants to try it on his old car, i kinda wish i had tried black paint though

I finally pretty much completed the Rustoleum sprayed paint job on my 84. Since I had just done my 85 late summer, I thought this would turn out even better. Not! I ended up with a LOT of orange peel. The only thing I can think of, since being a real amatuer, is that the shop was a lot warmer this time[75] as compared to the previous paint job[65*]. I even used thinner and took off the paint I had just applied to the top, since I could see it was not flowing out. I switched guns, since I was using a different one than the previous job. I'm guessing I used too much acetone, and the paint would set before leveling out. I was very unhappy with it, so I have been wet sanding and buffing it. It is presentable and shinny now, but not nearly what I had imagined it would be. And, a lot more work. One good thing, there was very little dirt in the paint this time, and no critters.The attached pictures look better than when you are up close. Sort of a 10 footer.

Love this thread. I have quietly watched this before and after I worked in sales and as a collision estimator for MAACO. I did glance through several pages, but I didn't notice if anyone mentioned the fact that there is a huge downside to putting this material on a car. If you ever want to repaint the car with an automotive finish, you got a whole lot stripping to do. Worse, the conventional ways of stripping a metal car could be potentially destructive to a Fiero. I recall we painted this one visiting ministers car and either the painter got the mix wrong or the scale stuck on a three part paint. It never hardened all the way. Had to strip the car to the metal to repaint. Nasty, nasty, nasty. That was a Lumina, lots of metal and no deep seems. I figure you would have to take most panels off a Fiero if a similar mistake happened. Nothing like solvent or some other substance causing your paint to peel back and off your surface like a blister.

By the way, the car in my signature is a MAACO paint job that I sanded on for few months year before I put it in the shop. Took me that long to get a new, but extremely crappy two-stage paint off in my spare time.

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FieroDriver--Multimedia by J "Wudman" Wood--WordPress on a Budget For ProsWud's Photo BlogsBlues in St. Louis--

quote Originally posted by bjc 350: ]

Beautiful coupe with steelies. Do you have more pics of this car? I am starting a collection of fiero's with steelies.
Also, did you restore those wheels, or are they original?

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Thank for the sig. Bobadoofunk
1984 White Fiero Sport Coupe (Juliet)
1988 Red Fiero Standard Coupe (bella)
1990 Black Buick Reatta (Noir)
2002 White Chevy Impala base(Haylie)

Hmmmmm...maybe a fresh paintjob for The Joel Project! What paint was the red that you used? What did you use on the black bumper pads? I should find out what his favorite color is...

84 white sc, the wheels were in pretty good shape, but I repainted them with Duplicolor Chrome. I also found a set of trim rings and wheel centers on e-bay about a year ago. I was missing one and so I selected the best I could out of the seven I have. One trim ring has a slight curb rash, otherwise they are pretty nice. I have some other wheels, but I kinda like these. The only options on the car are tilt wheel and radio, so thought I should keep it simple and near original. I do have a few more pics which I could e-mail to you if you wish.

JohnyRottin, The color is Rustoleum Regal Red. It is slightly more orange than the original red, but unless you saw the original color and the Regal Red next to each other, you likely wouldn't notice the difference. The bumpers are painted with Plastikote Flexible bumper and trim color #1862 flat black. They recommend an adhesive promoter, then a primer,and then a sealer, before the final color coat. I may pay later, but I scuffed the bumpers, cleaned them with laquer thinner, applied the recommended primer and then the top coat. They look to be the best part of my paint job. Long life may suffer a little, but I bought just two products instead of four. Remember, this car was only $200 and has a salvage title to boot. So, I can't sink a bunch of money in it. It had a minor rear impact in the early 90's which caused the salvage title. The PO bought it back and drove it until 2002, when it was parked. The ribbed side trim is painted with Rustoleum Satin Black, which I have used before, and seems to work fine and is very similar in sheen to the bumper paint.

Hey bjc, What are your reasonings for thinning with acetone? Generally when you use a high flash solvent like that in a mineral spirits based product it tends to dry too fast, and will generally result in cracking on a metal surface. Since our cars are fiberglass that is the reason you are getting orange peel. It's simply just drying too fast. Alkyd resins in household paints are generally designed to self level and dry at a very quick rate in itself. If you wanted to speed up the dry time use something like Japan Dryer. If you are thinning it to get it through a gun then just use Mineral Spirits (Paint Thinner) but don't thin more than 10%. Generally speaking you don't want to add a foreign thinner to a product that doesn't have that solvent in it, but if its necessary to use acetone or lacquer thinner just thin it up to 10% I wouldn't exceed it.

Arizona, I also suspect I may be thinning too much with acetone, since it speeds the drying, which is still much slower than a typical automotive enamel. The reason I used acetone is because the Rustoleum instructions state: "If thinning is necessary, thin only with mineral spirits or acetone. For brush or roller, thin no more than 5%. Apply with good quality brush, roller or spray gun." I used the acetone because I wanted to speed drying, and I thinned more to make it easier to spray, since the instructions left the door open on how much to thin when spraying. It looks, however, that thinning too much has left me open to your reasoning for the orange peel. When I do another Rustoleum project, I will heed your warning and thin less, and may even switch to mineral spirits. Problem with mineral spirits, is the stuff really dries slowly and allows for settling of more junk into the paint before drying. When I painted my black 85 shown earlier in this thread, I thinned 20% acetone and the orange peel was limited to an acceptable level. With going to 25% and a warmer shop this time, the orange peel was pretty bad. The paint probably didn't have a chance to level before taking a set. Thanks for shedding some light on this for me and others.
I am familiar with Japan Dryer, but have never used it. I may try some on smaller parts, to see how it works with the Rustoleum. Thanks.

[This message has been edited by bjc 350 (edited 01-15-2011).]

quote Originally posted by bjc 350: Arizona, I also suspect I may be thinning too much with acetone, since it speeds the drying, which is still much slower than a typical automotive enamel. The reason I used acetone is because the Rustoleum instructions state: "If thinning is necessary, thin only with mineral spirits or acetone. For brush or roller, thin no more than 5%. Apply with good quality brush, roller or spray gun." I used the acetone because I wanted to speed drying, and I thinned more to make it easier to spray, since the instructions left the door open on how much to thin when spraying. It looks, however, that thinning too much has left me open to your reasoning for the orange peel. When I do another Rustoleum project, I will heed your warning and thin less, and may even switch to mineral spirits. Problem with mineral spirits, is the stuff really dries slowly and allows for settling of more junk into the paint before drying. When I painted my black 85 shown earlier in this thread, I thinned 20% acetone and the orange peel was limited to an acceptable level. With going to 25% and a warmer shop this time, the orange peel was pretty bad. The paint probably didn't have a chance to level before taking a set. Thanks for shedding some light on this for me and others. I am familiar with Japan Dryer, but have never used it. I may try some on smaller parts, to see how it works with the Rustoleum. Thanks.

I would definitely test out the Japan Dryer in the Architectural paint world I sell massive amounts of it. But yeah using Mineral Spirits will definitely slow down the dry time. I am not too familiar with the Rustoleum product cause we manufacture our own Oil Based Enamels, I did read the data page and MSDS on it to see if I could locate an easier way to thin as well as speed up the drying process but couldn't find anything. They don't offer much information on the "Technical" Data pages. If you paint another car, try this stuff out. This stuff dries to the touch in 10 minutes and it is made specifically for spraying..

http://www.paintdocs.com/we...2&doctype=PDS&lang=E