I was going to suggest that you have them powder coated black for a few reasons. For one they look better that way and to keep them clean when they are no coated is a pain. After a while they tarnish and requires alot to get them clean. You can see what I am talking about with the one on my car. I am going to have it PC black here in the near future.
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10:46 PM
May 2nd, 2009
nosrac Member
Posts: 3520 From: Euless, TX, US Registered: Jan 2005
Powder coating is when the paint is in powder form and positively charged. The piece is grounded. When they spray it, the paint sucks itself to the part. Then it is put in the oven and baked on. In most cases powdercoat will ding with the metal, paint will chip. I powdercoat anything I can on my car, but I do it for free. I would recommend it, holds up MUCH better than paint.
Time for another update with some pictures. The car was bought out a few weeks ago and I have been slowly getting it ready for the swap. Pulled the motor out last week, cleaned up the engine bay a few days later and put in the insulation tonight. Motor will be going in in the next week once I finalize how I want to do the fourth mount since this swap doesn't use a low mount. I was going to use a lateral link from the stock Alt mount to the cradle but think I have changed my mind to go with the mount behind the A/C compressor. I worked on a mount tonight for it and have to grab a poly 350 trans mount tomorrow to see how it all works out. Hoping to have the swap done and running in about another 1-2 weeks and completly shortly after. Here are some pictures:
Donor--86 GT:
Another Shot of the car:
2.8 shot:
Azz end up:
Empty:
[This message has been edited by MstangsBware (edited 05-17-2009).]
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03:29 AM
nosrac Member
Posts: 3520 From: Euless, TX, US Registered: Jan 2005
Hey, where is the "standing in the engine bay" shot, Old 2.8 boat anchor out of the car shot, Under the car looking up shot?, ..... J\K ...
Good riddance to the old 2.8 i hope you can find it a new home. It is in great condition but just not enough umph for me.
I also hope the only rust on the car is the battery tray area. Also, since you are putting the coil packs in place of the old battery. How do you keep then from getting wet?
[This message has been edited by nosrac (edited 05-17-2009).]
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11:44 AM
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
Sooo.. I assume that will not cause a problem in the future because I haven't seen anyone complain about that location. Where do you locate your coil packs?
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08:21 PM
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
Sooo.. I assume that will not cause a problem in the future because I haven't seen anyone complain about that location. Where do you locate your coil packs?
Just to the left of the right decklid hinge, worked well on a number of swaps. The battery area would be the same idea, but you would need fancy plug wires, mounting them right under the hinge lets you use regular plug wires.
JK--No issues with the coil packs being an issue when mounted to the battery tray. They are weather packed and will not be affected by the rain. I have mine mounted there along with many other swaps running around.
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07:18 AM
nosrac Member
Posts: 3520 From: Euless, TX, US Registered: Jan 2005
Looks great, when it go's to Ennis I will bring my car and im sure we can get Stephen to go. Your shop looks nice an organized, I need to clean mine aswell (3 car garage, not really a shop) to make romm for your old,and my new Indy!! Yup, he sold it to me and she will get a frame up ( much more details to come) restoration!! thanks.. steve
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09:35 PM
Tom Slick Member
Posts: 4342 From: Alvarado, TX Registered: May 2003
Is that a 3.2 or 3.0 pulley I see? I hope it is smooth sailing from here including a no issuue first start up. My fingers are crossed, I don't want to jinx anything. I don't think I can handle any bad news right now.
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10:40 PM
nosrac Member
Posts: 3520 From: Euless, TX, US Registered: Jan 2005
Ennis... need to try the new track in Kaufman (on Hwy 175).
I will try both....Challenge....
If my car is a fast as good as the engine looks....I'm gona spank a whole lota azz...
Still need to upgrade the brakes, suspension, get some slicks before I can lay down some serious times...And also need to learn how to drive the 1/4 mile. I think it is a little more involved than just laying the hammer down at the green light.
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10:59 PM
Custom84cp Member
Posts: 295 From: Dallas, TX, USA Registered: May 2000
If my car is a fast as good as the engine looks....I'm gona spank a whole lota azz...
Still need to upgrade the brakes, suspension, get some slicks before I can lay down some serious times...And also need to learn how to drive the 1/4 mile. I think it is a little more involved than just laying the hammer down at the green light.
Ahhh, you have much to lean grashopper!!
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11:25 PM
PFF
System Bot
May 31st, 2009
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
If my car is a fast as good as the engine looks....I'm gona spank a whole lota azz...
Still need to upgrade the brakes, suspension, get some slicks before I can lay down some serious times...And also need to learn how to drive the 1/4 mile. I think it is a little more involved than just laying the hammer down at the green light.
Learn how to drive, or just get tires like the rest of us.
Is that a 3.2 or 3.0 pulley I see? I hope it is smooth sailing from here including a no issuue first start up. My fingers are crossed, I don't want to jinx anything. I don't think I can handle any bad news right now.
3.2 pulley on the snout---Will be working on getting all the little things hooked up and going. Looking forward to gettting the car finished and back your way. Once you drive the car you will make it your DD.
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04:45 PM
nosrac Member
Posts: 3520 From: Euless, TX, US Registered: Jan 2005
3.2 pulley on the snout---Will be working on getting all the little things hooked up and going. Looking forward to gettting the car finished and back your way. Once you drive the car you will make it your DD.
If it is too fast I might just keep it in the garage chained up. It is not safe to take untamed beast out on the street.
Little more of an update with some pictures. Still have alot of little things to do but getting closer.
Axle built/Suspension put back on the car:
Pulled tank--Old pump:
Walbro Pump: 3
Tomorrow the IC lines are getting ran under the car along with the + cable for the front battery mount box. Then on to hooking up all the coolant lines, bleeding the brakes, ect.
Time for another update. The build is moving at a crawl but still moving between work and 105* temps. Getting very close to the first start up for the setup. This morning I tackled getting the brakes bled, wheels put back on and mounting the front Norms battery box. Just a few pictures of mounting the battery box.
Ready to cut:
Test Fitted:
Finished:
Still have to trim for the spare tire to fit back in with ease but that will be done once the car is complete and ready to leave. Will be working on getting the exhaust made this evening once it cools back down some. Hope to have the exhaust completed, wiring/PCM powered up, CAI put together and maybe even a start up done by the end of the weekend. Still have to mount the Cobra heat exchanger/pump and then fill the system.
[This message has been edited by MstangsBware (edited 07-04-2009).]
Time for an over do update--Have been working on wrapping up the install over the weekend. Should be able to do the first start up on Wednesday and start working out any bugs that come up. Here are a few pictures that are new.
Parts for Exhaust:
Exhaust Built--Would recommend not to use PaceSetter Headers:
Back View of Exhaust:
Engine shot:
Only thing left to do is add reservoir for the IC, add fluids and turn the key. Hope to not run into any major issues with the setup.
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08:49 AM
IVANNATINKLE Member
Posts: 913 From: Kansas United states Registered: Jun 2009
Another piece of art! Hope everything goes ok on start up.
Zach
So you are the one that JINXED IT!!!!!!!!!!!--Went for the first start up today and it was a BIG OL NO GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not getting any spark to the plugs. Swapped out the ICM/Coils but that didn't help so I started troubleshooting some more. Going to look into the issue some more on my next day off and see what I can find. Think maybe the issue is in the NEG cable which is mounted up front for the front mount battery box. Norm's kit re-uses the stock NEG cable and doesn't come with a long cable to run from the engine to the battery. Hope that does it and the fix is simple. Will update when I find out something new.
I used norm's instructions on my front-mount box and have spark on my 3800. You're sure the black wire going to the ICM has a good ground? Mine was broken and would've caused me all sorts of problems if I wasn't paying attention.
I used norm's instructions on my front-mount box and have spark on my 3800. You're sure the black wire going to the ICM has a good ground? Mine was broken and would've caused me all sorts of problems if I wasn't paying attention.
Yeah--This is one of the first things I checked as that single little wire gave me hell for about 2 months a few summers ago. I will be running a ground from the engine to the battery on my next day off and will see if that is an issue.
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05:40 PM
Sep 8th, 2009
nosrac Member
Posts: 3520 From: Euless, TX, US Registered: Jan 2005
Moe then a few times I have found bent pins on the cam and or cranks sensors that can cuase a no start. For a dog bone with that alt up top I use a piece of plate steel that connects the two bolts on the alt with studs in them and weld a GP dog bone to the plate with the other end bolted in place on the Fiero end. I like that dog bone because there is only bushings on the one side making it stiffer with out having to go poly. Dan
Yeah--This is one of the first things I checked as that single little wire gave me hell for about 2 months a few summers ago. I will be running a ground from the engine to the battery on my next day off and will see if that is an issue.
The chassis itself is one big ground. When I relocated my battery I didn't run from bat. to engine w/ground, I just grounded it to the chassis, chassis to cradle, cradle to engine. No grounding problems at all. As far as cam sensor causing a no start I would have to say no! I know this guy who had a his accidentally unplugged for a while and it ran beautiful with the exception of no kr detection. Good looking job on the install.
Moe then a few times I have found bent pins on the cam and or cranks sensors that can cuase a no start. For a dog bone with that alt up top I use a piece of plate steel that connects the two bolts on the alt with studs in them and weld a GP dog bone to the plate with the other end bolted in place on the Fiero end. I like that dog bone because there is only bushings on the one side making it stiffer with out having to go poly. Dan
Will have part of the day off tomorrow to troubleshoot the issue more. I will check on both the connectors mentioned being they where pulled off and the harness was replaced during the cam swap. I planned on doing about what you mentioned for an upper dog bone mount with using the GP dog bone.
The chassis itself is one big ground. When I relocated my battery I didn't run from bat. to engine w/ground, I just grounded it to the chassis, chassis to cradle, cradle to engine. No grounding problems at all. As far as cam sensor causing a no start I would have to say no! I know this guy who had a his accidentally unplugged for a while and it ran beautiful with the exception of no kr detection. Good looking job on the install.
The ground may not be my issue with the no spark but I believe it is an issue with the slow cranking which might be causing the no spark/start issue. With a hot battery from my truck the motor still turns over slow like it is not getting on the cranking amps. I only had about an hour to look for the issue before I had to head to work and tomorrow will be my first day to look at it more. I will update with what I find.