quote Originally posted by mptighe: No news from the Haus?

Big news, actually.....new post coming this weekend of a sweet build to come.

Dave

Still hoping more progress on the TDI swap...

This is the latest Haus swap....I felt it deserved it's own thread....

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/084290.html

I updated the Haus website, but I'm going to make a few changes to the new tuning page and add Alltrbo's pics to it this week. I also hope to add the mail order products I've been building as well as making my pricing more readable.
Dave

I've spent the last month or two in my spare time adding some more horsepower into my gold GT. The biggest holdback of the 3800 is the exhaust system. To remedy this, we made our own custom stainless steel headers designed for the Fiero 3800s/c.
I added a short stack intercooler with our reservoir, front mount battery, headers, 42.5lb injectors, a 3.2" pulley and better rear tires along with our headers with 1 5/8" primaries, 2.5" crossover to a 3" collector into a complete stainless steel exhaust system, magnaflow Camaro muffler and C6 tips. We reduced the trunk to keep the exhaust away from the ignition system and I personally find the deep trunk to be annoying. Joey and I drove to Kentucky in the VR6 Fiero with the reduced trunk and had no issues with our luggage.
Here are a few pics...
The first header pics show them ceramic coated, then fiberglass heat wrapped...then silicone coated to seal the wrap. I'll be able to sit naked atop of my headers while the engine is running.

quote Originally posted by bmwguru: I'll be able to sit naked atop of my headers while the engine is running.

I sense a youtube video is necessary

I really like where the headers are exiting... way off to the driver side to allow more room for an exhaust. I am not sure why no one else has ran theirs that way.

we left enough room in the crossover pipe to swap out the Getrag for a F40 as soon as I can get a day or two to work on my own car

With Charlie's car headed out to Archie, we needed another project to fill in the spot. We are working on Michael's project and this new one that came into the shop. We started this build a few days ago.
It is a 1988 GT T-top car with a 5 speed.
The mod list includes:
series III 3800s/c
Vens Autosports headers to drop the exhaust to the front to keep the full trunk for the t-tops.
3.4" pulley
1.9 rocker arms with 105lb springs.
low mount alternator
POR 15 engine cradle
ZZP fuel logs with low mount pressure regulator
Northstar throttle body
3" CAI
powdercoated aluminum valve covers (brake calipers match)
short throw shifter
suspension upgrades

Here are a few pics.....

good luck on the upgrade on the choptop it's a tight fit.

P.S. we love pics

Anything new with the 3.1 turbo swap?

Troy, I'll post some pics of the work we are doing on your car. As for the 3.1 swap, we are doing a series III 3800 turbo with F40 six speed on a different Fiero. The owner of that car is giving me the freedom to build it the way that I believe is best...I'll post some pics of that before the week is over.
Dave

we had a few spare minutes today in between German car repairs and popped the motor in...

is it just me or do those 3.8sc's just look right in a fiero engine bay?? nice work dave..tim

quote Originally posted by thismanyfieros: is it just me or do those 3.8sc's just look right in a fiero engine bay?? nice work dave..tim

Your right Tim...

------------------
fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. All original.

quote Originally posted by troyboy: good luck on the upgrade on the choptop it's a tight fit. P.S. we love pics

Here are a few pics of Troy's car at the Haus. We are upgrading the alternator to a very high amperage unit Troy provided for us. No problems or issues on a car that is probably the nicest Fiero I have ever seen (including my own).

Actually, the only problem I had with Troy's car is that at least two to three times a day, someone would come into my shop and talk to me about the car for a while. I'd say I killed about an hour or two every day from people passing by and wondering what kind of car it was....lol. but it was all good.

yes, the alternator is a tight fit. The a/c compressor has to be removed to gain access to it.

Thanks for the update and complement Dave, and I'm glad this time it fit. Dave tried this last summer but the alt i sent him would not fit and we had to use a stock alt. The stock unit just could not keep up with the demand of all the new goodies I have installed into the chop top ex: NSX head lights, Audi driving lights, Hella fog lights, electric water pump, 1500 watt sound system intierior LED's..... Now add the radiator and AC fan and the car would slowly start to die at night with all the goodies on. The new unit is 220 amps and should do the trick with the 10,000F capacitor I have at home waiting to be installed for the sound system.

Many have commented that you can't run a decent exhaust (Ahem, Dennis ) and still keep your trunk. In this case, the 1988 GT we are working on is a T-Top car, and the customer required us to keep a trunk for the tops and run a free flowing exhaust with headers.
So, we put our brains to work and now have a "Stage 1 trunk reduction". This shortens the trunk by 4" front to back at the bottom, and allows a decent exhaust to run out the rear side of the engine.

Here is a shot with the net we installed to secure the tops.



engine side shot...



empty...





engine pic....almost completed





Also, when I complete my wiring harnesses, I pin on new ends whenever it is necessary to change the connector. I purchased a GT harness and needed to convert the injectors to the EV6 and the MAP to a 2 bar.







I also modify ZZP's fuel logs to fit better in the Fiero. We drop the regulator to the bottom by the fuel filter, shorten the crossover fuel hose, change the inlet fitting to a smaller, more attractive AN fitting, and install a gauge.

[This message has been edited by bmwguru (edited 07-14-2011).]

quote Originally posted by bmwguru: Many have commented that you can't run a decent exhaust (Ahem, Dennis ) and still keep your trunk. In this case, the 1988 GT we are working on is a T-Top car, and the customer required us to keep a trunk for the tops and run a free flowing exhaust with headers. So, we put our brains to work and now have a "Stage 1 trunk reduction". This shortens the trunk by 4" front to back at the bottom, and allows a decent exhaust to run out the rear side of the engine. Here is a shot with the net we installed to secure the tops. engine side shot... empty... engine pic....almost completed Also, when I complete my wiring harnesses, I pin on new ends whenever it is necessary to change the connector. I purchased a GT harness and needed to convert the injectors to the EV6 and the MAP to a 2 bar. I also modify ZZP's fuel logs to fit better in the Fiero. We drop the regulator to the bottom by the fuel filter, shorten the crossover fuel hose, change the inlet fitting to a smaller, more attractive AN fitting, and install a gauge.

Dave I am never one to doubt your ability and your fab skills. Some of your work has been nothing short of amazing. I would not hessiate to recommend your shop to any Fiero owner.
The trunk looks well done and like a neat mod. The full depth and narrower profile of the new trunk seems to appeal to the owners needs, so you have developed an exciting new product. Like others on this forum I have built good 3" in, dual 2 1/2" out exhaust systems behind a full trunk but they have been catless, use the Flotech Afterburner crossflow muffler and tend to be loud. For the Cadilac 4.9 highway cruiser install in my 85 ragtop I might try the cross flow Spin tech also using hot tips resonators but I heard that they are also loud. .
Getting back to your work; with the improved exhaust and the new trunk profile how have these exhausts sounded? Any You Tube vids yet?

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

You have a pm Dave!

This swap is coming to a close. We rebuilt the complete suspension and rebuilt the doors with new window motors, new window switches, felt, dew wipes, and cleaned and lubed the window tracks with all new hardware. I offer this service for $900 parts and labor.
I remove both the inner and outer door panels to get everything done and takes a day or two to complete. The windows go up and down much faster now.

The owner of this car wanted it to sound like a Ferrari. Now, working with a 3800s/c engine, this is very impossible, but playing with the CAD software for our headers, Ryan came up with a few unique ideas to give it a more European exotic sound. This is about as close as we could get to it, but it doesnt sound like our typical 3800.

Wow, that is easily the best 3800-supercharged I have ever heard!

------------------
'88 GT- 3800 Turbo 11.367@121.03mph
FOR SALE
GM Tuners

Sounds amazing. I'm glad you guys are able to get a good exhaust note out of these engines. Now, if only there were new pictures of a certain red T-Top you're working on. That would truly make my day

Engine looks amazing, car sounds amazing, love the colors in the engine bay but it seems like they should be on a black or yellow car somehow.... Nice work...!! Peace

Pete

quote Originally posted by Pete Matos: Engine looks amazing, car sounds amazing, love the colors in the engine bay but it seems like they should be on a black or yellow car somehow.... Nice work...!! Peace Pete

the car is not painted yet....lol. The owner told me the color choice of the engine and calipers so that when he paints the car, it looks great.
Dave

That sounds very good!
Now strap it to a dyno so we can hear the loaded WOT sound.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: That sounds very good! Now strap it to a dyno so we can hear the loaded WOT sound.

This ^

Are you guys still moving? Have you done any Turbo 3800's yet? Want to practice on my car? LOL!

What are you cutting the flywheel down to? With my experience that style of cover rubs on the inside of the transmission.

...and that sounds really good for a 3800sc.

------------------
Turbo 3800 E85 5spd spec5
11.53@126.7

[This message has been edited by Justinbart (edited 08-05-2011).]

I didn't feel like reading the whole thread again, did you mention at some point that you would be willing to sell your headers to the public? I would definitely bite .

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quote Originally posted by lildevil: Are you guys still moving? Have you done any Turbo 3800's yet? Want to practice on my car? LOL!

I'd love to move, but still trying to work out some issues here in NJ before we go.
Turbo 3800's....yes...building one with a F40 6 speed now.

quote Originally posted by Justinbart: What are you cutting the flywheel down to? With my experience that style of cover rubs on the inside of the transmission. ...and that sounds really good for a 3800sc.

either cut an additional .020" off the flywheel or grind the inside of the transmission to clear....either way will work.

quote Originally posted by JamesCurtis: I didn't feel like reading the whole thread again, did you mention at some point that you would be willing to sell your headers to the public? I would definitely bite .

yes....we sell them to the public....pm me with your needs.

while everyone was out prepping for the big storm coming, we decided to put together some brakes...

The brackets and hubcentric rings were purchased from WCF. Nice quality and fast turnaround. We used new calipers (reused our powdercoated yellow caliper housings), stainless braided brake hoses, drilled and slotted brake discs, ATE superblue DOT 4 blue brake fluid, and new front hub bearings.
The picture shows the rear corvette disc drilled to the 5x100, but has an adapter for the 5x120 Corvette wheel. The reason is the owner is getting new rims and tires in the very near future and we needed to put the necessary "break in" mileage on his car, so we had a set of Corvette rims in my shop and bolted them to the rear and used another used set for the front to be able to drive it. His original tires were beyond shot. His new rims will be the 5x100.

I have a query for you Dave...
I'm in the same metro area as Tim (thismanyfieros) and am also doing a 3800SC swap (Series1, basically stock, for now) in an 85 SE Targa, with plans to use the SSEi Bonneville interior, and keep the Bonne dash and gauges. I'd love to go with a set of your headers, and am curious on the pricing, but I doubt it will be in my budget for the time being.
However, one item mentioned recently in this thread was F40 swaps. Now this is my intended eventual tranny solution, and I have done a fair bit of research, but any direction I've gone, parts for the swap are coming up super expensive, and I was curious how you went about it for your current related projects... are you using Archie's kit or do you guys fab up your own setup? and if so, what would pricing be like?
The car was originally a 2m6/auto, but as it sits as is totally sans powertrain, however, I will probably have an 84 to donate all the vital manual conversion parts (pedals, clutch lines, etc) once I can acquire it from a buddy of mine. I would be doing the work myself, being as transportation to and from NJ (and across the border) isn't practical for me at this point, so I'm more so interested in parts pricing and availability for the moment...

Anthony

------------------
1986 Fiero SE 2.8 Auto - Blackie
1985 Fiero GT 2.8 4-spd - Goldie II - To be driveable this season
1985 Fiero SE Targa - 3.8SC - long term project
1987 Cavalier Z24 2.8 5-spd - daily beaten driver
1993 Bonneville SSEi - 3800SC donor for 85 Targa

[This message has been edited by 85red2m6 (edited 12-04-2011).]

Dave the swaps are lookin good !! any chance you have a pic of a red charger with zzp aluminum valve covers polished ??

quote Originally posted by 85red2m6: I have a query for you Dave... I'm in the same metro area as Tim (thismanyfieros) and am also doing a 3800SC swap (Series1, basically stock, for now) in an 85 SE Targa, with plans to use the SSEi Bonneville interior, and keep the Bonne dash and gauges. I'd love to go with a set of your headers, and am curious on the pricing, but I doubt it will be in my budget for the time being. However, one item mentioned recently in this thread was F40 swaps. Now this is my intended eventual tranny solution, and I have done a fair bit of research, but any direction I've gone, parts for the swap are coming up super expensive, and I was curious how you went about it for your current related projects... are you using Archie's kit or do you guys fab up your own setup? and if so, what would pricing be like? The car was originally a 2m6/auto, but as it sits as is totally sans powertrain, however, I will probably have an 84 to donate all the vital manual conversion parts (pedals, clutch lines, etc) once I can acquire it from a buddy of mine. I would be doing the work myself, being as transportation to and from NJ (and across the border) isn't practical for me at this point, so I'm more so interested in parts pricing and availability for the moment... Anthony

The headers may not fit a series 1 and we have no way to test them for fit. As for the F40 with the 3800, we used a combination of Archie's kit and ours. Archie's kit needed to be modded to work with the 3800. I don't think I will be doing another F40/3800 swap until a specific kit is designed. I don't have the time to design one right now.

ah... OK. I thought I'd read that one of the recent projects was a S1/SC project, and figured you might have test fit them while the motor was out... No biggie... like I say, I won't be in a financial position to really get going til at least spring...

Out of curiosity, what had to be modified on Archie's F40 kit? That part will be applicable to my project as I will be doing that swap when finances allow (I will be using an Izuzu until then)...

So, since Dave likes to drag me into other's threads, I decided I needed to post up in HIS thread, where this crap belongs, rather than trashing other people's threads.

To start, here's my build thread, starting where Dave's crap work was discovered... Warning, though, you'll waste a lot of time if you actually read through all the drama. It's all there on record and for the inhaling, though, if you want it. I'm not afraid to hide anything.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...L/000120-7.html#p267

quote Originally posted by RWDPLZ: Anything new with the 3.1 turbo swap?

Yeah, this...


















As mentioned previously, Dave originally thought there was a lifter tick and that it would go away with some RPM's. It didn't, so he revised the diagnosis to a valve tap, and thinks the cam wiped a lobe or several, backing up the thought with the fact that the original timing chain was very worn. I don't think it has a bad cam, but it sounded like a possibility to me. I hadn't known this when the oil was put into the engine, but all current oils lack enough zinc to lubricate the flat-tappet cams in most older engines. This applies to full synthetics as well, they apparently still don't have the proper lubrication required. Some time in the last few year the EPA limited the use of zinc in oils, but you can get racing oil that still has the right formulation. This has been a cause of many flat-tappet cam failures in the last few years.
However, I don't think the engine has run long enough for that to matter yet. I asked Dave to diagnose the tapping for me (if it didn't require tearing down the engine), and I asked if he was sure it couldn't have been the pushrod lengths. He checked the valve lash on the rear bank, and got varying results from .003" to .040". At that point I just asked him to tow it back home to me.

Obviously something is a bit off if they aren't all identical, but as I've tried to explain to Dave to no avail (he doesn't believe me), there should be NO valve lash in this engine. The hydraulic lifters take up all of the slack and should have a factory preload of about .070-085", that is, the pushrods should be pressed down into the lifter by about .075" while on the base circle of the cam, and the lifters' internal springs should press back keeping the pushrods pressed against the rockers, which in-turn press against the valves. At no point should there be any slack in the valvetrain.
If Dave didn't take this into account when measuring the pushrod lengths, then the custom length pushrods are too short (and custom length pushrods aren't cheap), that would explain the clickity-clack of what sounds like just about every valve/lifter in there.
Unfortunately you can't just adjust the rockers to take up the slack like you can in most other pushrod engines because these are pedestal-mounted rockers, meaning they're torqued down solid and non-adjustable.









Here is the coilpack cover that Dave made. It is attached with two bolts to the firewall and nothing else. It flops up and down and the edge catches on the wiring loom and the vacuum hose:









Here's the INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE sensor connector dangling with NO SENSOR to hook it up to. Kind of important.









This is where the factory dogbone bracket was. You can't tell from the pic, but the edge that looks blunt is actually razor sharp, I cut myself on it. It's a good thing I wasn't putting my hand down there with my wrist exposed! The upper edge that's nearer in the pic is also pretty sharp.















The brand-new wastegate was supposed to come with its own matching fittings which are a much better design. When I saw that Dave had charged me for wastegate fittings I asked about these, and he said it didn't come with any. I said I wasn't worried about the $10, but he should ask the person he ordered the wastegate from what was up with that because I checked the Tial website and they still show them as being included (as were they with my Talon's identical WG several years back), when he didn't reply to that I forgot about it until now
(edit: later it was pointed out to me by someone that this was a fake Tial, as I should have known having already researched, installed, and swapped springs in one in one of my other turbo cars and several in other cars years ago. I had completely forgot about that. More on the WG later)







(Note the lock washer. lovely):





The muffler, which can be seen between the trunk wall and heat shield, has about 1/4" of clearance to the bottom of the trunk, and carpet is just on the other side of that thin sheetmetal. Instead of asking for the muffler to be as high and far forward as possible, I guess I should have asked for it to be as high and far forward as feasible but I figured a "Master Technician" would know what I meant. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the downpipe coming off of the turbo has about the same clearance to the trunk wall. That part will glow red when I push it, and there isn't even enough room to put a heat shield in between. A slightly sharper bend would have given that enough clearance to use a good heat shield.



Reverse view of the same thing (muffler clearance):



(this comment edited, it was re-explained previously)



I asked for the bottom of the battery area to be sealed up from the underside of the car in whatever fashion was deemed best for that.






Time-serts... It's time to revisit that...



Way back I posted in my thread that I had some ideas why, but whatever the cause of the threads pulling out was neither here nor there... well it's here. Just for the fun of 'enjoying' those sexy car magazines that Dave thinks I whack off to, I went and looked this up, though I learned about it way back in Auto Service Technology class at the local tech school:

quote Part of the fun of building an engine is ensuring that all the threaded holes in the block are in good shape and ready to handle the torque loads for fasteners like head and main cap bolts. While you might not give much thought to the quality of these threads, it's a royal pain when the threads pull out when you're torquing that last head bolt. Standard taps are actually designed to cut new threads rather than chase existing ones. Every time you use a standard tap to chase a set of head bolt threads, for example, the tap will also remove more of the existing threads. This reduces the overlap of the female threads in the block to the male threads on the bolt. This reduced overlap can often lead to stripped threads on these larger bolts. In the old days, savvy engine-builders only ran a tap through these bolt holes once, and employed a very old or used tap that did not cut as deeply into the female threads. While that's still a trick that you can use today, ARP has come up with a set of new taps that will accomplish the same goal. These taps are specifically designed to be used as thread-chasers to clean dirt and junk from the threads, yet remove as little parent thread material as possible. If you enjoy building engines, keep this little trick in mind the next time you get ready to clean those threads. It might save you grief down the road. Read more: ]http://www.carcraft.com/tec...xzz1aOmuFYko

Back to the wastegate. There is a large gap between the valve and the body; There is supposed to be a replaceable valve seat insert there to fill in that gap, and it was not put in prior to installation. In person, it is even more obvious than in the pics. I have no idea how anyone could possibly miss that when installing it. In addition to that there was a huge external exhaust leak from that connection as evidenced by the blackened gasket and flange (both sides), and bottom side of the turbine blanket. The bolts were slightly more than finger tight. Ironically, the connection to the dump pipe was fine.
Gee, I wonder why my turbo wasn't spinning.






.
.
.
Here's the area with the turbine blanket removed...




.
.
.
This is the condition that the new wastegate was in (even before I removed it)...






The soot in the exhaust's dump pipe shouldn't even be there considering that this car has never seen boost...




Here it is with the actuator top removed. This is the worst of the two holes with stripped threads that holds it together with the spring compressed inside. The wastegate spring he swapped in was the wrong one for whatever reason, it was a 3.6 psi spring rather than the 8.7 psi that I ordered. The original one was supposed to be a 14.7 psi spring, but I didn't get it back like I had asked so I don't know if it was or not. at any rate, he stripped out several bolts that hold the wastegate together. There's a specific method to putting the top back on (fake wastegate and real both) to keep from FUBAR'ing it, and that was obviously a FAIL in this case.








And finally, here is a real Tial 38mm, made in the USA and one of the best you can buy (and it includes properly designed banjo fittings). This same wastegate has been on my AWD Talon for about 50k hard miles through hell and back and has not had a single issue (I took it apart once to inspect the diaphragm while troubleshooting a boost problem I was having, but it was like new)...



Dave told me he will refund me the money for that fake wastegate, and I will order one through a reputable Tial dealer (and he did... and it's the only money he is willing to reimburse me for at this point).


Back to the wastegate. There is a large gap between the valve and the body; There is supposed to be a replaceable valve seat insert there to fill in that gap, and it was not put in prior to installation. In person, it is even more obvious than in the pics. I have no idea how anyone could possibly miss that when installing it. In addition to that there was a huge external exhaust leak from that connection as evidenced by the blackened gasket and flange (both sides), and bottom side of the turbine blanket. The bolts were slightly more than finger tight. Ironically, the connection to the dump pipe was fine.
Gee, I wonder why my turbo wasn't spinning. He blamed it on my turbo being too big.






.
.
.
Here's the area with the turbine blanket removed...




.
.
.
This is the condition the wastegate was in (before I removed it)...






The soot in the exhaust's dump pipe shouldn't even be there considering that this car has never seen boost...




Here it is with the actuator top removed. This is the worst of the two holes with stripped threads that holds it together with the spring compressed inside. The wastegate spring he swapped in was the wrong one for whatever reason, it was a 3.6 psi spring rather than the 8.7 psi that I ordered. The original one was supposed to be a 14.7 psi spring, but I didn't get it back like I had asked so I don't know if it was or not. at any rate, he stripped out several bolts that hold the wastegate together. There's a specific method to putting the top back on (fake wastegate and real both) to keep from FUBAR'ing it, and that was obviously a FAIL in this case.








And finally, here is a real Tial 38mm, made in the USA and one of the best you can buy (and it includes properly designed banjo fittings). This same wastegate has been on my AWD Talon for about 50k hard miles through hell and back and has not had a single issue (I took it apart once to inspect the diaphragm while troubleshooting a boost problem I was having, but it was like new)...



Dave told me he will refund me the money for that fake wastegate, and I will order one through a reputable Tial dealer (and he did... and it's the only money he is willing to reimburse me for at this point).

Okay, next up...

This is what I should have received on my car, anodized black top and all (I specified that, too):



Vs. what I did receive:




Here is the other part of what I found when I took off the wastegate...
Poorly hogged out holes (and not even a simple hand de-burring with a larger drill bit) and lovely vice marks:



(washers must be evil, they weren't used very often on this build)





Vs. the right way (valve seat insert and all):





While we're at it, lets have a look at the great seal on the ghetto teflon-taped barb fitting. Another exhaust leak. Surprise, surprise...



As I previously mentioned, these were stripped in the mating flange and barely more than finger tight.
Two simple bolts.
They're too big, used and in nasty condition, and completely different from each other in just about every way. Not even the heads are the same size. The different thread pitch? That takes the cake:





I can't take pics of the mating flange on the POS Y-pipe right now, but of course it looks just as bad. What this all means is that I can't even install the new wastegate without repairing the Y-pipe with M8 helicoils (if they'll even fit in the stripped M10 threads) or building a new one entirely which needs to happen anyway because it doesn't line up to the manifolds. Thanks.

It's a SIMPLE weld-on flange and bolt-on wastegate, HOW DO YOU SCREW THAT UP?

...and Dave blames ALL of this on ME. (If you haven't seen that yet, just wait...)
The proof is in the pudding, and there is the pudding... until I can scoop out a little more of it anyway.
I'm not the only one who feels this way about his work. Several others have PM'd me telling me that, even on his 'world renowned uber perfect' 3800SC swaps, his work leaves much to be desired once you get past the pretty pictures of rattle-canned superchargers and valve covers, despite the fact that he's just copied what has been done (except that a lot of what has been done, has been done properly) many times in Fieros by now.

Great job from a guy who lists on his website "The Haus of Guru is the place to build your custom Fiero. If you can dream of it, we can build it."
HAH!
Can't forget these memorable "Haus of Guru" quotes:

quote Let's face it. The most challenging part of the swap is the wiring harness. Will it look clean? Will it even function as desired? Dave and Joey don't believe two harnesses should be joined by soldering. There should only be one harness that has new pins, or electrical terminals at the connections. We replace all the terminals at the pcm, C500, C203 and OBDII plugs. This is the correct way to do the job. We work on a higher standard because we want your car to last another 25 years.

Go back and look at that wiring harness.

I don't need to go further than this I think. Everything has been hashed and rehashed to death in my build thread that is linked above.

quote The attention to detail is staggering...Everything is detail. Perfection is key. If you are looking for a perfectionist to design your engine swap, Dave is your guy.

'nuf said.

[This message has been edited by ALLTRBO (edited 12-17-2011).]

Steven,

I didn't even read your post cause I'm tired of your pathetic attempt to rain on my parade.

As for the wastegate. The turbo shop I bought it from did all the mods to it, changed the spring and sold me a knockoff. I refunded your money for it which you still have never acknowledged.

As for the Haus of Guru...

We used to do custom swaps that were one off, but since working on Alltrbo's pile, we no longer do that. Now it is just 3800s/c swaps in one of five packages.

We used to let customers have control over the build and let them control the design while we put it together, but since working on Alltrbo's pile, we no longer do that. Now, I control all aspects of the build working within the customer's budget, color choices and what they expect out of the finished product.

We used to let customers provide me their drivetrains, but since Alltrbo brought me his with his timing chain falling out, head bolt threads completely gone and excessive bearing play, we no longer install customer's drivetrains unless I inspect the drivetrain first.

We used to do four swaps a year, but since Alltrbo's build, we decided to do one swap a year and get back to making money on German repairs and working on our own swaps instead.

Now, I believe I have apologized for that damn wastegate at least four times now, refunded money for it and made sure that on Michael's build we got a genuine Tial wastegate thanks to the tutorial on how to ID the knockoff wastegates in Alltrbo's build thread.

Dave

ps: your Fiero build, your cars getting broken into and the windshields that arrived broken....sounds like you got some bad Karma. Maybe you should start being nice and get your head out of your ass.
It worked for me. I'd like to make something very clear: I don't have rage. I'm a happy guy. You see this face? This is a happy face. You'll be lucky to be as happy as I am - Orin Boyd

[This message has been edited by bmwguru (edited 12-17-2011).]

quote Originally posted by bmwguru: Steven, I didn't even read your thread cause I'm tired of your pathetic attempt to rain on my parade. As for the wastegate. The turbo shop I bought it from did all the mods to it, changed the spring and sold me a knockoff. I refunded your money for it which you still have never acknowledged. As for the Haus of Guru... We used to do custom swaps that were one off, but since working on Alltrbo's pile, we no longer do that. Now it is just 3800s/c swaps in one of five packages. We used to let customers have control over the build and let them control the design while we put it together, but since working on Alltrbo's pile, we no longer do that. Now, I control all aspects of the build working within the customer's budget, color choices and what they expect out of the finished product. We used to let customers provide me their drivetrains, but since Alltrbo brought me his with his timing chain falling out, head bolt thread completely gone and excessive bearing play, we no longer install customer's drivetrains unless I inspect the drivetrain first. We used to do four swaps a year, but since Alltrbo's build, we decided to do one swap a year and get back to making money on German repairs and working on our own swaps instead. Now, I believe I have apologized for that damn wastegate at least four times now, refunded money for it and made sure that on Michael's build we got a genuine Tial wastegate thanks to the tutorial on how to ID the knockoff wastegates in Alltrbo's build thread. Dave ps: your Fiero build, your cars getting broken into and the windshields that arrived broken....sounds like you got some bad Karma. Maybe you should start being nice and get your head out of your ass. It worked for me. I'd like to make something very clear: I don't have rage. I'm a happy guy. You see this face? This is a happy face. You'll be lucky to be as happy as I am - Orin Boyd

LOL, it's pretty foolish to make those statements given that you didn't even read my post.
That's fine with me. It's now posted here for relevant members to see who haven't seen my thread. That's all I wanted out of this one.

[This message has been edited by ALLTRBO (edited 12-17-2011).]