We sell them for $199 + shipping (not your everyday cheap HID kit) but if you contact me on here I can get you a better deal on what you are looking for.
------------------ Top Line Group Automotive -Aftermarket accessories for the Fiero www.TLG-auto.com
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01:03 AM
Jan 19th, 2010
gtxbullet Member
Posts: 4167 From: Pewaukee, Wisconsin, USA Registered: Apr 2008
FINALLY!!!! an in expensive way to get low-profile headlights. Great job dude!!
you don't mind if I copy your idea do you?
------------------ F.I.E.R.O. - Fantastically Imaginative Engineering Racing Object
For any Paint Work: http://www.kurtcarloni.com/ www.fquick.com/GTXBULLET Certified Tech/Mechanic (Restorations, Modifications, and Maintenence) 1985 Fiero GT 69k Miles (All Options) - Daily Driver 1988 FIERO Coupe "IRON DUKE" 5-Speed (the show car ;-) 1992 Firebird T-Tops V-8 30k original miles(collectors car)
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02:58 PM
doublec4 Member
Posts: 8289 From: Oakville, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
If I may chime in; I've used the 93 Camaro/Olds small cubies, side by side, made my brackets, chopped the hard plastic back frame to just keep the adjustments & rocker towers intact, welded strips of 1/8" X 1/2" X 3" to an angle & bolted up. I welded 2 fiero metric studs to the head light/body stiffener cross member about 1" down from seal lip. Wired up high/low beams: for low beams-a relay isn't needed-I checked the fiero/camaro wiring diagrams & found that I could remove the 2 yellow wires that go to the same pin in the main fiero head light connector-remove them-solder in a jumper to those 2 yellows & run the jumper to the head light on/off rocker switch. This swap was just completed this week & YEP-I will get some pics. I'll have to get the wife to get them loaded/sent-what ever ya call it to this page? as my computer skills would make a second grader mad!?! I did do some chopping on the hood & fender mount flange-had to cut out 1 mount bolt. Plan full pans under the set up & glass on some flaring panels using polyurethane foam behind the lights as they are about 3/4 " above hood edge. Already have dual heat extractor vents in the hood. The hood mount hinges will be swapped side for side & mounted inside the hood mount braces, & bolted thru. Ya-some cuttin & weldin is needed-but this will allow a wider opening-smoother finish-I HOPE. Pics will help clear up the mud-Rick
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11:00 PM
doublec4 Member
Posts: 8289 From: Oakville, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
If I may chime in; I've used the 93 Camaro/Olds small cubies, side by side, made my brackets, chopped the hard plastic back frame to just keep the adjustments & rocker towers intact, welded strips of 1/8" X 1/2" X 3" to an angle & bolted up. I welded 2 fiero metric studs to the head light/body stiffener cross member about 1" down from seal lip. Wired up high/low beams: for low beams-a relay isn't needed-I checked the fiero/camaro wiring diagrams & found that I could remove the 2 yellow wires that go to the same pin in the main fiero head light connector-remove them-solder in a jumper to those 2 yellows & run the jumper to the head light on/off rocker switch. This swap was just completed this week & YEP-I will get some pics. I'll have to get the wife to get them loaded/sent-what ever ya call it to this page? as my computer skills would make a second grader mad!?! I did do some chopping on the hood & fender mount flange-had to cut out 1 mount bolt. Plan full pans under the set up & glass on some flaring panels using polyurethane foam behind the lights as they are about 3/4 " above hood edge. Already have dual heat extractor vents in the hood. The hood mount hinges will be swapped side for side & mounted inside the hood mount braces, & bolted thru. Ya-some cuttin & weldin is needed-but this will allow a wider opening-smoother finish-I HOPE. Pics will help clear up the mud-Rick
Sounds good Rick.
Post up some pictures when you can, or email them to me and I can post them for you. Just private message me and I'll send you my email address.
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11:02 PM
Apr 11th, 2010
Rick Morehouse Member
Posts: 311 From: Conway,S.C.,USA Registered: Jan 2008
My HID set up came with a H4 connector to plug into my wiring harness.
i got my HIDs from DDM tuning for $54 shipped and they came with a wire harness that only needs to plug into one headlight connector. I found out that that connection is only used/needed for the signal saying the headlights are turned on, and then there's two power wires (1 positive and 1 ground) that are intended to be connected directly to the battery. However since most cars have their batteries up front, these power wires obviously aren't long enough to reach the fiero's battery. Did you have to do something similar or do your HIDs draw power directly from the stock H4 connectors? I'm wondering because I'm having trouble deciding if i should splice into wires up front, and the problem there is what wires do I splice into, or if i should do as the instructions say and connect the harness directly to the battery, and then where/how do i run the wires, under the car? thru the cabin? any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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12:41 PM
PFF
System Bot
doublec4 Member
Posts: 8289 From: Oakville, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
Mine draw power directly from the H4 plug and I haven't had any problems with it. I moved my battery upfront so if I really needed to draw power, it would be very close by anyways.
Try drawing power from the regular H4 plug?
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01:52 PM
LR8523 Member
Posts: 21 From: North Aurora, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2009
That was one idea i had, but i thought i read somewhere that with the three wires one is a ground, one is for high beams and the other is for low beams, i don't remember exactly which ones were which. i don't know maybe I'm mistaken on that knowledge about the wire setup. And just a thought if i did take power from the other H4 plug, the one not connected to the wire harness for the signal, would i have to connect the harness' power wire to both the high beam and low beam wires, so that i would have power regardless of whether high or low beams were selected?
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02:43 PM
doublec4 Member
Posts: 8289 From: Oakville, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
From my understanding, one wire is low beam +, another is high beam + and the other is ground.
So if you took power from this harness you would need to maybe take power from both lines? So when you switch high to low or low to high you have power either way. And then those "signal" lines that tell your ballasts if you're using high or low beam, just keep those hooked up as is with each wire going to the respective high/low
Im not much of a wiring guy, but thats my best guess.
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03:20 PM
Apr 14th, 2010
LR8523 Member
Posts: 21 From: North Aurora, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2009
thats what i was thinking. ill have to give it a try and see how it works. it might be awhile though im still looking for projectors, but all the junkyards around dont seem to have any cars with decent projectors, so we'll see. thanks for your help.
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11:22 AM
Apr 27th, 2010
mtownfiero Member
Posts: 1779 From: Mansfield, Mass Registered: Mar 2007
heres what i came up with using a mix of everyones ideas
S10 headlight buckets and ebay s10 h4 conversion buckets, i didnt want to go for the HID until i figured out of it worked and i liked it or not.
Mine seem to be a little high compared to doublec4's but i think looking at his pics now its because of how they were cut. Ill try to fix that tomorrow.
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07:23 PM
kyunderdawg Member
Posts: 4373 From: Bowling Green, KY. USA Registered: Aug 2008
Does the 4x6 reflector have a manufacturer label/stamp and/or part number molded into it or anywhere on it? I'm having a difficult time trying to find one with the 4 mount screws.
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02:24 AM
doublec4 Member
Posts: 8289 From: Oakville, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
Sorry, even if I had the box still I couldn't tell you what the name was. They were some japanese brand thing from a booth at an auto show around here. I'm sure some of the generic brands online have mounting bosses on the back?
I just did the slim headlight build on my car like doublec4 did. Looks fantastic, and stock too.
I couldn't find headlights with 4 screw holes like doublec4, so I ended up getting regular 4x6 headlights. Then I got a chrome headlight retainer from a 95-97 chevy s10 to hold the headlight onto the plate i made. I bent the top tabs on this retainer down, and made a bend at the top of my plate, so that I could screw the retainer down without increasing the height of the headlights:
I drilled out a hole in the bottom of the housing for the adjuster screw receiver. I cut one side of the receiver off, and silicone'd it tight:
I remounted the spring that holds the plate, so that it has a similar 'traingle' configuration with the two adjuster screws:
The back of the headlight had some plastic ridges that stuck out, so I ended up having to put some spacers between the headlight retainer and the plate on the bottom. I also used springs on the adjuster screws between the plastic housing and the plate:
Not shown, but you'll have to cut out a notch in the detachable bottom plastic piece to make room for the bottom adjuster screw.
My only regret is the sheet metal I used for the plate isn't at all sturdy enough. It flexes with the adjuster screws, so I have very limited adjustment available. Luckily, the headlights seem to be pointing right about where I want them to. I'd suggest getting some metal that wont flex.
Edit: Just upgraded to an HID kit from ebay! note to any HID installs: there is a hot 12volt wire going to the radiator fan that you can tap into.
[This message has been edited by cloaked (edited 04-02-2011).]
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02:40 AM
johnyrottin Member
Posts: 5487 From: Northwest Florida Registered: Oct 2007
I just bought a set of the 4x6's. They are in the mail. I am going to reproduce the original thread. I can't wait to lower the profile to the more Level look that it gives.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
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01:27 PM
Jul 9th, 2011
doublec4 Member
Posts: 8289 From: Oakville, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
I finished both buckets yesterday although I only installed the driverside right now because the passengerside motor isn't ready to install. But I absolutely love the new look. Thanks for the write up. I sort of used your ideas and then improvised with the material I had and my naked eye to make my bracket from 1/4" plexiglass. Really looks the same and almost functions the same. But I love the way it turned out.
I ended up using three seperate pieces of plexiglass for plates on 3 sides of the headlight lense. I JB welded them and then drilled 3 holes (2 for each adjustment screw and one other on the opposite side for a tension spring). I used a new spring instead of the rusty original.. I then taped off the lensse and sprayed it all black. The only complaint I have with mine is that the finishing side covers were moving a little too much every time the light went up and down. I had to end up putting one set screw in the outside finishing cover to keep it steady. After I had to cut the notch for the bottom adjustment screw it was necessary to have more than just the one attaching screw to the finishing plate cause it would move and get in the way. I didn't want it to break all together and have to replace it. Here is my Sport on the right with stock lights and the GT on the left with the one modded low profile light bucket.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 07-15-2011).]
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01:13 PM
Jul 27th, 2011
DaleR Member
Posts: 55 From: Fayetteville, Ohio, US Registered: Apr 2009
Hello, thought I would chime in. I am currently working on this same build. I am using 98 S10 headlights, and I took two spare retainers from a 86 Monte Carlo we have. I'm trying to have the back plate cut on a laser. I'll be making the design in AutoCAD 2012 and I'll send it on CD to my Father so he can cut it out at work. If everything works out id be more than glad to send a copy of the file. I'll post a few pictures when I get a chance.
the goal is to move one adjuster to the bottom of the Fiero housing and simply attach the adjusters, the headlight will then be held on with a retainer.
like I said ill post photos when I have everything worked out.
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07:31 PM
Aug 12th, 2011
FieroDev Member
Posts: 246 From: Regina, Sask, Canada Registered: Jan 2010
I don't read GFC often and sorry, I don't have time to read 3 pages...
You know that HL bucket has 1/2 for Door "Bearing..." Door has 2 plastic parts is other 1/2. Shorten bucket removes Bearing areas.
Bucket has only these two points making contact w/ the door.
Door open less but If not used then two parts can eat each other. Doesn't take long before Fiberglass parts eats and breaks when hit each other directly.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
how's light output... I still want hid in fiero difference Is amazing....
just ask I've tried numerous setups recessed etc hated them
------------------ 3800 SC/IC Formula whines more than your girl... 08 Cobalt SS TC - ZZP tuned, K&N SRI, 6k HID's 13.31@107 07 HHR - Wifes (tried to have her get the SS)
I thought it might help all of those that may want to have them but dont have access to build the mounts. I did this for a few people of other Ponitac parts on PYI site.
I thought it might help all of those that may want to have them but dont have access to build the mounts. I did this for a few people of other Ponitac parts on PYI site.
