I see a lot of people on here put the reflective heat shield stuff on their firewalls when doing swaps. Personally, I don't like the look of the shiny stuff, but have had ZERO luck finding a factory looking replacement for the black stuff that was there (at least at a sane price).

My question is, Does it work? Does it cut down on noise and heat? Really? I mean does it really work or is it just a waste of time?

I really want to put it back like factory, with the black fiberglass stuff all over the firewall and strut towers, but it just isn't available. If the shiny stuff works, I guess I could get used to it, but I think it looks odd.

Please post your experiences.

Thanks.

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1986 SE Aero coupe. 3.4 DOHC swap is underway!

The firewall insulation that WCF sells is spendy, but works well. It is marine grade insulation for inboard boat engines.

It has 2 layers of foam, 1 layer of heavy film in the center, and then the foil backing on one side.


I plan to use this on my LS4/F40 swap, but place a smooth firewall panel in front of it (I am not in love with the foil look of it either):

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 02-24-2012).]

We are having the same issue, which is why for now we are just removing all old insulation and leaving it that way. Looks much more roomy in the engine bay without that old disgusting insulation.

[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 02-24-2012).]

quote Originally posted by mattwa: We are having the same issue, which is why for now we are just removing all old insulation and leaving it that way. Looks much more roomy in the engine bay without that old disgusting insulation.

I did this on my personal swap and kick myself for not adding some type of insulation back. You will get alot of heat coming thru the console and into the cabin. It is best to use to help keep the heat out and seal up any holes the heat can come thru. You can get the rolls of insulation from Summit or JC Whitney....So yourself and favor and add the insulation back..

What if I installed more insulation on the inside of the firewall?
This stuff?
http://www.jcwhitney.com/he...x?filterid=c2663u0j1

I have reflective insulation on my current 3800 SC swap. the previous one just re-used the old insulation that came in the Fiero. The difference is enormous: There is no noticable heat coming into the cabin now. I definitely recommend it

quote Originally posted by mattwa: What if I installed more insulation on the inside of the firewall? This stuff? http://www.jcwhitney.com/he...x?filterid=c2663u0j1

I wouldn't mess with the cheap stuff. The WCF material was designed specifically for noise/heat reductions for inboard boat engine compartments.



It works quite well and the bulk roll they sell for $144 is enough to do 2 fieros and helps bring the cost down. You could also buy it direct from their supplier, for slightly less.

You can add more insulation to the inside, but with the metal firewall panel exposed directly to the heat, it will act like a large heat sink and get hot and stay hot on longer trips. I have done it both ways and insulating on the engine side of the firewall is best for overall passenger compartment comfort (both from heat and noise).

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 02-25-2012).]

I used the foil insulation between the rug next to the rear firewall in the trunk and the trunk is noticeably cooler. On occasion I keep a small drink cooler in the trunk and the ice wasn't lasting long. Now the ice in the cooler will stay for a day trip. The only thing that I dislike about this stuff is that it is flammable.
For the guy that doesn't like the silver color where its exposed in the engine compartment, prime it and paint it flat black.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I have been using REFLECTIX insulation on firewalls for a while, it works wonderfully, is relatively inexpensive, and is easy to install.

I think it looks good as well.

Dennis, if you paint the reflective insulation black it looses all effectiveness.

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: I have been using REFLECTIX insulation on firewalls for a while, it works wonderfully, is relatively inexpensive, and is easy to install. I think it looks good as well.

Where do you get it from?

Steve

I have bought it at Home Depot, Menards and Lowes may carry it as well.

I sell a precut panel (for the Fiero firewall) of the material if you are interested.

I rhino lined mine....

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: I have bought it at Home Depot, Menards and Lowes may carry it as well. I sell a precut panel (for the Fiero firewall) of the material if you are interested.

I don't think that stuff will work. I have a lot of heat
building in the trunk. (trunk insulation was smoldering)
I have a 3800SC with the muffler in the stock position.

Steve

I looked it up, and what I found was just basically a thin heat barrier...looked like a thicker version of aluminum foil. Cheap though.

It doesn't need to be thick to be effective because it reflects heat.

I've used it for years in all kinds of applications.

I've put it in several cars with no issues.

If only the Adiabatic Engine were perfected we wouldn't need any of this insulation.

I have a ton of that reflectix stuff. It goes Foil then a plastic bubble layer and more Foil. I want to use it but it seems really easy to catch on fire. Any one else usin it?

If it gets against the exhaust header it would melt, but not catch fire.

The material does an excellent job as firewall insulation.

*scratches bumps on forearm* Fiberglass wool is EVIL!!!!!!!

Every time I have to work on the engine I curse the "wisdom" of Fiero engineers who decided on that material.

Have you considered using the Fiero store silver liner, or dynamat's "Hood liner" and maybe painting it black for an OEM look?

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: I wouldn't mess with the cheap stuff. The WCF material was designed specifically for noise/heat reductions for inboard boat engine compartments. It works quite well and the bulk roll they sell for $144 is enough to do 2 fieros and helps bring the cost down. You could also buy it direct from their supplier, for slightly less. You can add more insulation to the inside, but with the metal firewall panel exposed directly to the heat, it will act like a large heat sink and get hot and stay hot on longer trips. I have done it both ways and insulating on the engine side of the firewall is best for overall passenger compartment comfort (both from heat and noise).

Is there enough for engine bay and interior insulation on one Fiero, or just 2 engine bays?

Edit:
Nevermind, it'd only do 2 engine bays at most.

[This message has been edited by Bstrickler934 (edited 05-01-2012).]

i've been using REFLECTIX for a couple of years and i think it was great. it was a hard decission to make, cause it's hard to change once the engine is installed

I wonder how large and light weight could you make or buy a heat sink that worked but would still need something for noise? Or is that the main purpose?

[This message has been edited by Australian (edited 05-03-2012).]

Why would you want a heat sink?

The reflective insulation (Reflectix) prevents heat transfer by reflecting the heat back into the engine bay where it can be exhausted by the air stream and the engine cooling system.

It also does a good job with noise.

I took out all the OEM crap that just looked nasty. I didnt replace it with anything. I dont notice that much extra heat or noise without it. Just painted looks so much better.

I suppose the only choice while an angine is still installed, is add some to the cabin side of the firewall.

What I did.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: I suppose the only choice while an angine is still installed, is add some to the cabin side of the firewall.

It would be a bit of a pain to replace the insulation with the engine in the car, but I think it is doable.

Remove all of the fasteners that are holding wiring looms, cables and hoses and pull off the old fiberglass insulation.

Precut the new material and slide it up into place from the bottom. It would be really helpful to have extra hands on top.

If you use something like the Reflectix, its very flexible and easy to work with. Cut 'H" shaped slits to attach the material around and behind the fastener brackets for the wiring looms and cables. Cut the piece tall enough to bend at the top under the rear window (above the torsion bars for the deck lid). There are some fasteners up there to hold it in place, also at the bottom.

It would be a very big PITA, but it would be doable and would give you something to do for an afternoon.

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: but it would be doable and would give you something to do for an afternoon.

Or three...