Sorry... Mobil 1 synthetic is the bomb... This picture is from my engine of 20 years.... My Dad and I have never used anything else. This is untouched and I just removed the valve covers.

FYI.. Once you go syn, you can't go back to regular.

I left the pictures big so you can get the full effect






My truck has synthetic in it also but different brand... my truck has 197,000 miles on it ( syn since 22,000 ) and it just started a valve cover leak!!!!

But you said you used it since new, so thats no comparison. Im sure its great oil. Just causes problems put in an older high mileage car. Im also sure it works beautifuly in new Corvettes that get it from the manufacturer. Your truck is different with 200K prob needs the valve covers tightened anyway. Put the Mobile One in it and then tell us what happens. My old engines with a few hundred thous on old Valvoline Dino oil were spotless inside too...before they even invented synthetic.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 12-19-2008).]

I only know what I've experienced... My mustang and Escort were all used cars with around 30-40,000 miles and when I bought them, I put in synthetic. Both cars went 150,000 miles before my stupidness of donuts and just being a kid. I didn't open the engine up though but I will say no leaks.

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: Sorry... Mobil 1 synthetic is the bomb...

quote Originally posted by Deabionni: ...Now don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking oils like Mobil 1 and others, as they are still very good oil; but what gets me is that they try to push their products off as a "true" synthetic, and charge synthetic prices for it.

Thank you for taking the time to post those pics. That's proof that there's nothing wrong with running a Group III (dino oil) based synthetic.

As I said earlier, Mobil 1 is a very good oil; it's just overpriced for what it really is.

[This message has been edited by Deabionni (edited 12-19-2008).]

quote Originally posted by 2.5: As far as storage, this truck won't see 8k miles in 2 years, can keep the Euro Castrol 0w30 oil in it that long?

I've asked a few people what they'd recommend in your situation, and they suggest that you'd change out the oil once per year. One person in particular, (the one who taught me most of what I know about synthetic oil), had an oil suggestion for you.

quote Tell him to have a look at Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30...it's a bit thinner oil that will perform better under severe cold.

He's right about that. Here's the cST numbers for Pennzoil Platinum 5W 30:
40*C cST = 57.5
100*C cST = 10.2

Now compair that to German Castol 0W 30:
40*C cST = 72.9
100*C cST= 12.5

Even though the Pennzoil has a cold weight of 5W, and German Castrol has a cold weight of 0W; you can see that in the cold, Pennzoil Platinum 5W 30 with outflow German Castrol 0W 30. (Proof that you can't just go by the weights posted on the outside of the bottle).

If you're going to be doing most of your driving in severely cold weather, this may be an oil worth looking at.

[This message has been edited by Deabionni (edited 12-23-2008).]

Thank you again.

Maybe they mean if you switch back to dino oil because the synthetic started to leak, it won't stop leaking.

This is still my fear, the leaks, a rear main going our or something would SUCK.

I was thinking if Pyrthian had such good luck with doing this at 138k
"the first change was to Castrol synth blend, for 5k, then I went to Valvoline full synth."

Maybe certain brands of synthetic are less apt to cause leaks?

Also, the Euro Castrol syntec, does it have any properties to help prevent leaks? Do any full syns?

rear main will not start leaking if it aint now. the types of seals which may leak are the valve covers & oil pan and the likes which can get crud build-up. the front & rear mains dont get crud built-up - because they are moving surfaces. same for cam seals on OHC motors - like my Escort. gaskets which were RTV'd also will not leak. actually - its mostly just the old cork gaskets - and - usually - if you just re-tighten the bolts before the switch, it'll be fine. dont fear the leaks - they are unlikely, and if they do show up - they are gonna be easy fixes. the nice cold winter flow is well worth the chance of a leak.

On my last oil change I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic, in my Ford Windstar with 70k. I have heard so much good about synthetics and because the price was no longer exponentially more expensive than Dino oils. Now I read here that I may have made a mistake.

Here's a question for ya.

At what point do you consider a car/van high mileage? Did I wait too late to switch? Should I go back to Dino? No known leaks in the engine at this time. Thanks for any replies.

Jim

quote Originally posted by jimbolaya: On my last oil change I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic, in my Ford Windstar with 70k. I have heard so much good about synthetics and because the price was no longer exponentially more expensive than Dino oils. Now I read here that I may have made a mistake. Here's a question for ya. At what point do you consider a car/van high mileage? Did I wait too late to switch? Should I go back to Dino? No known leaks in the engine at this time. Thanks for any replies. Jim

no mistake. none at all.
watch your oil level. if it remains nice - you are golden.

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: no mistake. none at all. watch your oil level. if it remains nice - you are golden.

From all the input here I am leaning twards full syn and am thinking the Pennzoil Platinum.

BTW, though the truck is an 88, it is believed to only have 85k miles on it.

I will let you all know if dire things happen, but with the infrequent drivetime this one will get, we'll all have forgotten by that point.

^^^ With 85K miles on it, you should be alright.

I've switched to synthetic on:

1) '84 T-Bird with 83k - roof crushed by a tree branch at 126k - engine still ran 100%
2) '88GT with 52k - sold at 99k and still ran 100% when sold
3) '88GT with 56k - sold at 92k and still ran 100% when sold
4) '97 Rivera SC with 86k - sold at 104k and still ran 100% when sold
5) '94 Integra with 97k - sold at 136k and still ran 100% when sold
6) '96 Integra with 104k - donated at 114k and still ran 100% when sold
7) '98 S70 T5 with 83k - now has 117k and still runs 100%
8) '00 V70XC with 113k - now has 118k and still runs 100%

no issues with oil leaks ever. don't believe the hype about synthetics and oil leaks.

Interesting testing Amzoil did on a bunch of oils, synthetic and regular. I am not for or agaist Amzoil, but found this site when looking for into on Valvoline Synpower and Pennzoil Platinum. The tests were done in 2003, but are very informative ( I don't know what has changed since 2003). I am a little torn between The Valvoline Synpower and Pennzoil Platinum, it may come down to price.

http://www.synthetic-oil-te...otor_oil_testing.htm

Both oils look to be pretty good. The Pennzoil is a bit thinner during a cold start up then the Valvoline, but it's also just a tad thinner at operating temperature as well. The Valvoline seems to be a bit thicker overall.

Here's the data sheet on both oils, if you haven't seen them yet.

Valvoline Synpower and Pennzoil Platunum data sheets.

Both oils have a very good additive pack, and should hold up well for the conditions you'll be subjecting it to. A year from now, when you change your oil, you may want to think about submitting an oil sample for testing. Having your oil tested is really the only way to be sure that the oil you've selected is holding up well in the application and conditions that you're running it in. $33 is a small price to pay for the peace of mind.

This has been a very interesting thread, I first want to thank those that contributed.

Here's my question. I run a Cummins Turbo Diesel and run Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Oil as recommended. Is there a difference or am I being scammed?

Ron

quote Originally posted by Two88GTs: no issues with oil leaks ever. don't believe the hype about synthetics and oil leaks.

Some people only change oil every few years. I knew one guy that kept a car almost 10 years and never changed it. I opened it up to see what the problem was and it was full of mashed potatoes. I use synthetic myself for only 2 reasons, its more heat resistant and I can extend changes safely for up to 10K (which also makes it cheaper than Dino in the long run)

Heres some 'hype' for ya from my Corvette club, whos members mostly believed Mobile One is golden. All of their cars are only summer toys and get only minimal use. None had any leaks to speak of other than a random drip.

61 Corvette 327, started leaving 1 quart puddles in garage, torndown for rebuild
64 Corvette 327, driveway oil slick, rebuild
73 Corvette 454, leaked so fast you could watch it leak out when running, puddle in garage, rebuild
74 Corvette 454, pan, front and rear seal leakage, on trips 1 quart every gas fill up. rebuild.

all those with less than 50K, each of them also has C5s with none leaking theyve mentioned.

86 Fiero GT, FieroLisas, no leaks, swapped to Mobile, leaked over a quart each month during winter storage in my garage. She just ran it randomly during storage.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 12-23-2008).]

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: ...leaked over a quart each month during winter storage in my garage.

...

How does an engine "leak" a quart of oil a month while it's being stored (unless it's all dripping out the drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan)?

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: FYI.. Once you go syn, you can't go back to regular.

Really ?

Please Explain.

I only assume the full mark is above the crank seals when not running, I dont know. I figure it prob is since every car that leaks, does it when its not running. We first noticed it the first time when she did her monthly start up / run. There was a puddle of oil as big as the car. It never stopped, she just would check it and put a quart in it everytime she came out to start it. I kept a big box of kitty litter under it for the rest of that winter. It wasnt coming out of the drain plug because I checked it for tight. My old Dodge leaks a little (43 yrs old) out of the front and rear mains, even if it sets for a few weeks.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I only assume the full mark is above the crank seals when not running, I dont know.

If the oil level was that high you'd be having other issues at start-up!

Ive actually never paid attention to how high oil level is in a crankcase. I just assume its deep enough for the bottom of the seals to be immersed and the pan gasket too. Otherwise cars wouldnt leak when parked right ??? My old dodge dont leak when its running, but does a little when parked a week or 2. If not then it has to come from somewhere.. There has to be something with a gasket below other than the plug. The storage garage we used wasnt level, it was a rental that had a marked slope to keep out water, so maybe that was it. I just know she was always adding oil to start it up and there was a puddle from end to end under the car. It wasnt antifreeze or trans either (standard). I kept my Ferrari kit there too and it didnt leak. When she started hers, it ran fan, good oil pressure, no noises.

quote Originally posted by blackrams: This has been a very interesting thread, I first want to thank those that contributed. Here's my question. I run a Cummins Turbo Diesel and run Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Oil as recommended. Is there a difference or am I being scammed? Ron

I didn't know your answer off hand, as I'm not too familiar with diesel engines or the oil that they use; so I had to ask around.

I'm not familiar with Mobil 1's diesel oil, so I'm not sure if they're trying to pass it off as synthetic. If they are, then it's only a Group III based dino oil, so we know what it really is. (We've already beaten that horse to death earlier in this thread, so no need to get back into the "it's not really synthetic" discussion again).

If you're looking for a good dino oil, the oil that was recommended was Rotella T; and it was said to be one of the best dino oils out there. If you're looking for a synthetic oil, the recommended synthetic diesel oil was Delo 400 Syn 0W-30.

Sorry that I don't have any numbers or anything to back up the recommendations for you, but as I said earlier, I don't know anything about diesels or the oils required to run in them; so I'm left just passing on the recommendations from people who know a lot more about oil than I do. Hope this helped.

The reason I heard those diesel oils Rotella and Delo were recommended is they still had higher Zddp levels in them, I don't think Rotella does anymore.

well, have ya made the switch?
your motor will have been much happier on these cold starts with some free flowing synth, than clumps of frozen dino juice.....

Actually, not yet. Besides not having driven it more than one 30 mile trip, I actually bought the Bronco II from a buddy and I have taken a closer look and it was 3/4 quart low on oil. So now I am back to questioning whether it is going to eat up synthetic oil faster. I will this weekend change the oil to the high mileage stuff that has additives to swell seals. I'll probably monitor it and switch later this year. I had determined to probably use valvoline synpower at that time. It is the 2.9 engine which from what I read is much better of with synthetic so I am still wanting to do ti.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: The reason I heard those diesel oils Rotella and Delo were recommended is they still had higher Zddp levels in them, I don't think Rotella does anymore.

Actually, the guy that recommended both of those oils verified that they both have healthy doses of ZDDP in them; and because of that, they're both really popular in the domestic muscle car crowd who are running flat tappet cam V-8's. (He's also running Rotella T in his Ford 7.3L diesel).

On a side note, his recommendation still is that you should take a close look at Pennzoil Platinum 5W 30; as the additive packs used are very stout compared to other Group III synthetic oils that he's tested. Not to mention, the Pennzoil Platinum is a bit thinner than the Valvoline Synpower; so you'd get better flow and protection for the (infrequent) cold starts with your plow truck.

Cool about the Rotella. Yep I try and run higher Zinc oil in my 72 Buick.

I will check out the Pennzoil Platinum as well, the website for them bragged up its cleaning power which to me means more prone to leaking in an older engine (?).

^^^ Leaks would be my only concern, but since the Valvoline is only a hair thicker than the Pennzoil Platinum; I doubt the Valvoline would help prevent any leaks that would show up. If you make the switch and you find a new leak, that seal was on it's way out anyway. (Although at 80,000 miles, I'd say your seals should probably be up to the task).

Either way, I'm sure which ever oil you chose to run will be fine. It sounded like you don't even put 5,000 miles a year on that truck, so any Group III synthetic you choose should be good for the year that you'd run it. Depending on your actual mileage, you may want to change the filter (and top off with oil) halfway through the year; but if you're not even close to 5,000 miles in a year, I wouldn't worry too much about it. (Most of us who do extended oil changes only change our filters every 4,000 miles, with oil analysis at the time of the filter change).

[This message has been edited by Deabionni (edited 02-04-2009).]