I have a hay elevator that the motor just went on. I replaced the 1750 RPM motor with a 3400 RPM motor.
I now have an elevator that shoots the bails into the loft. Funny but not really.
The pulley on the original motor was a 3” one and I used that on the new motor so the speed is to fast.
The pulley I go to is a 6” one. So math masters, what size do I need to go to?
I don’t need to cut the speed in half back to the original speed but cutting it down would be nice. So that they are not flying up into the loft at light speed.
I know there is a formula to figure this out but I have no idea what it is. Anyone?
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't. Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
No the motor needs a smaller than original. If it had a 3" than you need an 1 1/2" to slow down the elevator. Or you can keep the 3" on the motor amd go to a 12" on the elevator to reudece the speed by 1/2.
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11:14 AM
84fiero123 Member
Posts: 29950 From: farmington, maine usa Registered: Oct 2004
No the motor needs a smaller than original. If it had a 3" than you need an 1 1/2" to slow down the elevator. Or you can keep the 3" on the motor amd go to a 12" on the elevator to reudece the speed by 1/2.
Sounds right but I am on my way to find out just how fast this thing is.
Light speed here we come.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't. Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
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11:16 AM
blackrams Member
Posts: 32784 From: Covington, TN, USA Registered: Feb 2003
Steve, Think about this, if you put larger wheels on your truck and still are maintaining the same engine rpm how has that affected your speed going down the road?
You need to do one of two things, either reduce the size of the sprocket on the drive motor or increase the size of the sprocket turning the conveyor.
BTW, is this the same conveyor that plane took off from.
Ron
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 01-27-2010).]
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11:16 AM
jstricker Member
Posts: 12956 From: Russell, KS USA Registered: Apr 2002
STS has the math right, Steve. To keep the same speed you need a 1.5" pulley.
That might be a problem depending on how wide the belt is and how big the shaft is on the motor, but I'd put the smallest pulley I could find on the motor (down to 1.5") that will fit the shaft and belt. You might have to settle for a 2" or something in that range.
John Stricker
quote
Originally posted by 84fiero123:
Sounds right but I am on my way to find out just how fast this thing is.
Light speed here we come.
Steve
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11:43 AM
blackrams Member
Posts: 32784 From: Covington, TN, USA Registered: Feb 2003
If you can't change the motor puller to a smaller one you need a bigger one on the other side. Try a 12" pulley. If you can't do that, maybe you can have an electrician install a rheostat, to control the motor speed, then you will have a variable speed system.
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12:36 PM
SGS Member
Posts: 706 From: Sherwood Forest Registered: Jan 2010
If you can't change the motor puller to a smaller one you need a bigger one on the other side. Try a 12" pulley. If you can't do that, maybe you can have an electrician install a rheostat, to control the motor speed, then you will have a variable speed system.
Rheostats only work on DC motors. He'd need a variable frequency drive for an AC motor, and I don't think the cost would be worth it.
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12:45 PM
84fiero123 Member
Posts: 29950 From: farmington, maine usa Registered: Oct 2004
John, Just because other folks you know have to settle for 2" doesn't mean Steve has to.
Ron
LOL,
LMFAO
Oh **** now I have even more chest pains than I had when I came in here.
OK
As I crawl off the floor in tears.
Well to quote Scotty.
“Warp speed and climbing,”
And to quote me, “She can take it but I can’t.”
It is not as bad as I thought it would be. I can’t keep up but I can put a switch up top so I can start and stop it from up top and down bottom.
I should have replaced a half a dozen bearing while I had it down, it gets stored up in the ceiling.
I guess now I have to replace those bearings anyway. With the higher speed it threw a chain in the middle of just 50 bales so I have to.
I know there is a formula to figure out this. Because when I was working multispindle screw machines and had to set it up for something new formula for this I just can’t remember it.
Thanks guys.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't. Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
I don’t need video, I was there. I saw it in person.
But it wasn’t that bad. Well not quite.
Steve
Yeah, till a bale comes up that elevator at warp speed when you're not expecting it and you turn around to catch it in the chest.
Change the pulleys Steve.
I can see it now, Steve gets lazy and decides to ride the elevator up to the loft instead of climbing the ladder. He gets on, Melanie hits the power switch and there goes Steve, the next man to visit the moon.
Ron
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 01-27-2010).]
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02:03 PM
jstricker Member
Posts: 12956 From: Russell, KS USA Registered: Apr 2002
It is not as bad as I thought it would be. I can’t keep up but I can put a switch up top so I can start and stop it from up top and down bottom.
I should have replaced a half a dozen bearing while I had it down, it gets stored up in the ceiling.
I guess now I have to replace those bearings anyway. With the higher speed it threw a chain in the middle of just 50 bales so I have to.
I know there is a formula to figure out this. Because when I was working multispindle screw machines and had to set it up for something new formula for this I just can’t remember it.
Thanks guys.
Steve
First off, your reaction of laughing is quite common for Blackrams every time a female sees the size of his equipment, so he certainly felt at ease.
Second, the formula is almost as simple as Blackram's love life.
Figure the circumfrence of each pulley. 3.14 times the diameter. Take the DRIVE and divide it by the DRIVEN and that's the reduction or overdrive ratio. Example in your case:
If you had a 1750 rpm motor time the .500 reduction your shaft was turning at 875 rpm. Now you have a 3400 rpm motor but you still want your shaft to be driven at 875 rpm so you need a reduction ration of .257 or 3.9:1
Basically, if you have to keep the 6" pulley, the ideal would now be 1.542" but I'd say you want to really keep your shaft speed below 1,000 rpm so then you need to have a pulley close to 1 3/4". Any bigger and you're going to still be slinging things pretty fast, although I think you'd be fine with a 2" pulley.
John Stricker
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03:15 PM
htexans1 Member
Posts: 9114 From: Clear Lake City/Houston TX Registered: Sep 2001
First off, your reaction of laughing is quite common for Blackrams every time a female sees the size of his equipment, so he certainly felt at ease.
Second, the formula is almost as simple as Blackram's love life.
John Stricker
Oh my, I can't tell you how much I love reading your posts John. You had me on the floor laughing my butt off. Seriously. You should do something with that talent. Don't just let it go to waste, I know, you could become one of President Obama's speech writers. He delivers one heck of a speech, you two would make a good team.
Ron
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04:28 PM
Hank is Here Member
Posts: 4458 From: Hershey, Pa Registered: Sep 2000
Sounds like you just need to start searching for old hot tub motors. some are 1700RPM, some are 3400 rpm and some are dual speed. Generally you can find these motors cheap used with someone getting rid of the hot tub because the main control board went.
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05:11 PM
MidEngineManiac Member
Posts: 29566 From: Some unacceptable view Registered: Feb 2007
why screw around with Patatoe cannons, when ya can have a hay-bale canon !.
DAYMN--see if you can get it to fire 50 yards.
(I tried to build a pumpkin cannon once out of large-diameter sewer pipe...had it almost finished, but my G/F at the time put an end to that plan when I went to go for 5 gallons of gasoline.)
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06:31 PM
84fiero123 Member
Posts: 29950 From: farmington, maine usa Registered: Oct 2004
Yeah, the ratio given is correct, but depending how much load you are experiencing, a smaller pulley on the motor shaft may result in belt slip, as you won't have as much contact with the pulley. If you had room, instead of the variable frequency route, you can go with a jack shaft in the middle of the drive, thus doing your pulley size change there. A lot cheaper than messing with the electrical end of things.
Another option, if you have a spare one laying around, is to put a reducing gear box between the motor and the driven end of things. Not cheap tho, if you have to go out and buy one, tho I am guessing a 2:1 box would run a couple hundred bucks depending how much HP you need.
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09:49 PM
avengador1 Member
Posts: 35468 From: Orlando, Florida Registered: Oct 2001
Rheostats only work on DC motors. He'd need a variable frequency drive for an AC motor
I never claimed I was an electrician that is why I suggested he ask an electrician about this. Changing the pulleys would probably be the easiest and cheapest solution.
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09:57 PM
Jan 28th, 2010
Wolfhound Member
Posts: 5317 From: Opelika , Alabama, USA Registered: Oct 1999
Yeah, the ratio given is correct, but depending how much load you are experiencing, a smaller pulley on the motor shaft may result in belt slip, as you won't have as much contact with the pulley. If you had room, instead of the variable frequency route, you can go with a jack shaft in the middle of the drive, thus doing your pulley size change there. A lot cheaper than messing with the electrical end of things.
Another option, if you have a spare one laying around, is to put a reducing gear box between the motor and the driven end of things. Not cheap tho, if you have to go out and buy one, tho I am guessing a 2:1 box would run a couple hundred bucks depending how much HP you need.
Best answer yet.Two pulley Jack shaft is easiestand least expensive.
It already has a jack shaft type setup . It is the only way a half hp motor can move 50 lb bales of hay up an incline a dozen at a time.
Mine has the side with the motor then a shaft that goes to the other side where there is a gear reduction setup.
John thanks, I knew you would know.
Thanks guys and now I am considering making that . . . . .
Hay Cannon. Steve
I've seen them--just haven't seen yours, and I have one. Direct driven off the 540 rpm pto of my tractor. Is the final drive (bottom of the pic) being driven by a belt and pulley setup on the far left of the one you linked to--or chain and sprocket? A guy up the road I helped haul hay for has one driven with a washing machine motor. Dunno what rpm or hp.
[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 01-28-2010).]
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09:56 AM
PFF
System Bot
84fiero123 Member
Posts: 29950 From: farmington, maine usa Registered: Oct 2004
It was being run by a ½ HP motor, I put a 2 HP motor on it. The PTO driven type do not need the gear reduction. They already have a 20, 30, or larger HP motor running them. Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't. Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 01-28-2010).]
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10:22 AM
blackrams Member
Posts: 32784 From: Covington, TN, USA Registered: Feb 2003