THIS STUFF SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everyone told me "oh, its way better than dupli color kirs". Im like ok i will paint my Intake with VHT and give it a try. I paint the intake. This crap sucks. It takes almost a can to cover 1 fiero 2.8 intake. Duplicolor covers way better than VHT. Everyone told me "its hella tough too". I preped my part very well, I can chip this crap off with my finger nail. So now im torn. Do i pull the intake back off, remove the old paint and then re paint it. Or call it quits and leave it alone. DO NOT BUY VHT! 9 bucks a can of pure fail.
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05:49 PM
PFF
System Bot
avengador1 Member
Posts: 35468 From: Orlando, Florida Registered: Oct 2001
THIS STUFF SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everyone told me "oh, its way better than dupli color kirs". Im like ok i will paint my Intake with VHT and give it a try. I paint the intake. This crap sucks. It takes almost a can to cover 1 fiero 2.8 intake. Duplicolor covers way better than VHT. Everyone told me "its hella tough too". I preped my part very well, I can chip this crap off with my finger nail. So now im torn. Do i pull the intake back off, remove the old paint and then re paint it. Or call it quits and leave it alone. DO NOT BUY VHT! 9 bucks a can of pure fail.
That is why when I am happy with a product, I use it on stuff I care about. If I keep hearing about something that is better, I use it on something that I do not care as much about. I love the Duplicolor engine enamel and use it to paint non-engine parts too.
Damn, nine dollars a can? You can almost buy two cans of Duplicolor, or three cans of Rustoleum for that price!
quote
Originally posted by 87antuzzi:
Will powder coating handle the heat?
I have heard of a special, high heat, powder coating that will set at the same heat (450?), but will handle much higher heats
[This message has been edited by LitebulbwithaFiero (edited 05-07-2010).]
THIS STUFF SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everyone told me "oh, its way better than dupli color kirs". Im like ok i will paint my Intake with VHT and give it a try. I paint the intake. This crap sucks. It takes almost a can to cover 1 fiero 2.8 intake. Duplicolor covers way better than VHT. Everyone told me "its hella tough too". I preped my part very well, I can chip this crap off with my finger nail. So now im torn. Do i pull the intake back off, remove the old paint and then re paint it. Or call it quits and leave it alone. DO NOT BUY VHT! 9 bucks a can of pure fail.
PROPER PREPARATION is 9/10ths of any good paint job. That includes engine parts.
The paint on this engine is now 3 years old: It's all VHT, and NOTHING is cracking, flaking or peeling.
How did you prep your parts????
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10:49 PM
May 8th, 2010
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
I've used various VHT brand paints for many years, with excellent results. As Randye states, preparation is critical (as with most paints), but the high-temperature VHT paints also require an oven post-cure. If you pick the correct paint for the application and do both prep and post-cure correctly, VHT paints will last a long time. One possible problem is using a "very high temperature" (e.g. "flameproof") paint when a "moderate temperature" paint would be a better choice; consider that the Fiero intake will seldom exceed about 225 F. Also remember that aluminum is usually a more challenging surface for paint than cast iron or steel.
That said, use whatever works best for you. If you get consistently better results with DupliColor, that's probably what you should be using.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 05-08-2010).]
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10:42 AM
87antuzzi Member
Posts: 11151 From: Surrounded by corn. Registered: Feb 2009
Im prepping it by cleaning the part. The intake is just awkward to paint. Now i have to figure out how to strip it back off. I cant sand blast it and chemical stripper wont get in the nooks and crannies.
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06:05 PM
LitebulbwithaFiero Member
Posts: 3381 From: LaSalle, Michigan Registered: Jun 2008
Im prepping it by cleaning the part. The intake is just awkward to paint. Now i have to figure out how to strip it back off. I cant sand blast it and chemical stripper wont get in the nooks and crannies.
Why? Why can't you sand blast it? And all the chemical strippers I have used can either be sprayed any where paint can be sprayed, or brushed into any area the brush can reach.
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06:26 PM
87antuzzi Member
Posts: 11151 From: Surrounded by corn. Registered: Feb 2009
Why? Why can't you sand blast it? And all the chemical strippers I have used can either be sprayed any where paint can be sprayed, or brushed into any area the brush can reach.
Because its nearly impossible to get all the sand out of the intake. I have a intake thats been blasted and hot tanked and there is still sand in it. It like to gather under a plate thats on the bottom side of a 2.8 intake. The plate with the 4 rivets. Can I remove this plate????
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06:48 PM
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10628 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
If you used "Flameproof", I thought that was only for headers....you need to see this: Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C) Applications: Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, Piston Domes, Inside Heads Finish: Flat Dry Time: Curing time required and can be done on or off vehicle Curing FlameProof™: VHT FlameProof™ Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to instructions on the can).
On the Vehicle Paint must be completely dry before curing Run at idle for 10 minutes Cool for 20 minutes Run at idle for 20 minutes Cool for 20 minutes Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes Off the Vehicle Paint must be completely dry before curing Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes Cool for 30 minutes Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes Cool for 30 minutes Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes Caution: Do not exceed the temperature of the least heat tolerant component or the base metal
If you used the Enamel: Curing Engine Enamel™
VHT Engine Enamel only attains its unique properties after correct curing.
Bake at 200°F (93°C) for 20 minutes. The inherent heat of engine operation will also accomplish curing.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 05-08-2010).]
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07:00 PM
87antuzzi Member
Posts: 11151 From: Surrounded by corn. Registered: Feb 2009
If you used "Flameproof", I thought that was only for headers....you need to see this: Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C) Applications: Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, Piston Domes, Inside Heads Finish: Flat Dry Time: Curing time required and can be done on or off vehicle Curing FlameProof™: VHT FlameProof™ Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to instructions on the can).
On the Vehicle Paint must be completely dry before curing Run at idle for 10 minutes Cool for 20 minutes Run at idle for 20 minutes Cool for 20 minutes Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes Off the Vehicle Paint must be completely dry before curing Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes Cool for 30 minutes Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes Cool for 30 minutes Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes Caution: Do not exceed the temperature of the least heat tolerant component or the base metal
If you used the Enamel: Curing Engine Enamel™
VHT Engine Enamel only attains its unique properties after correct curing.
Bake at 200°F (93°C) for 20 minutes. The inherent heat of engine operation will also accomplish curing.
So bake it, then paint it while hot, then bake it again??
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07:03 PM
LitebulbwithaFiero Member
Posts: 3381 From: LaSalle, Michigan Registered: Jun 2008
You just need to paint it on but it requires the heat the cure properly. Spray the part, let it cure, and then either install it and let the engine run for a while to heat the part or use an oven to cure the paint.
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07:06 PM
87antuzzi Member
Posts: 11151 From: Surrounded by corn. Registered: Feb 2009
You just need to paint it on but it requires the heat the cure properly. Spray the part, let it cure, and then either install it and let the engine run for a while to heat the part or use an oven to cure the paint.
Cool. I still dont like the way it came out. Do you think i could remove that plate on the bottom of the intake???
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07:08 PM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
I used vht before. Both flame proof and high heat. Both turned out like crap.
Hmmmmm ... Other people report good results using VHT paints. There seems to be a pattern here. Is it VHT, or is it you? You can "rant about VHT" all you want, or you can address the problem. It's your choice.
"We have met the enemy, and he is us." ~ Pogo
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 05-09-2010).]
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01:52 AM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
Ive never had great luck with any of the high heat paint. Anything I did was no better than just the Duplicolor paint or Krylon. VHT Hemi Orange is like a candycolor and wont cover anything at all. I just bought a can of single stage Vitamin C (Hemi Orange) auto paint and did my new engine with it. Have to redo it because I had to tank it again
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07:04 AM
Indiana_resto_guy Member
Posts: 7158 From: Shelbyville, IN USA Registered: Jul 2000
To strip all the stuff off the outside and inside of the intake, get a plastic storage tub the intake will fit in and enough thin, liquid paint stripper from the furniture refinishing aisle at the Lowe's (not the expensive paste stripper). The factory powder coating is TOUGH and hard to remove, but letting it soak for a few days will remove all of it and all the built up carbon inside. A couple of bucks worth of quarters at the local spray and wash will blast off any left overs.
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11:14 AM
82-T/A [At Work] Member
Posts: 24967 From: Florida USA Registered: Aug 2002
The 6 "P's"..... Proper Preperation Prevents Piss Poor Performance . I used Duplicolor about 5 years ago to do the intake in my sig. I have a few areas that have chipped away also. Powder coating would have probably been the best thing for me to do. In the future...
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12:12 PM
Dakota Fiero Member
Posts: 104 From: Southeast South Dakota Registered: May 2009
no. So called adhesion promoters dont do anything to plastic or engine parts. Dont waste your money. What I do to an engine is paint it either with just Duplicolor engine paint, Krylon, or automotive paint. Then I take a torch and heat it up, put another coat while its hot. Of course the engine or parts have to be out of the car. It bakes it dry really nice n tough.
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07:48 PM
LitebulbwithaFiero Member
Posts: 3381 From: LaSalle, Michigan Registered: Jun 2008
. Duplicolor covers way better than VHT. Everyone told me "its hella tough too". I preped my part very well, I can chip this crap off with my finger nail. So now im torn. Do i pull the intake back off, remove the old paint and then re paint it. Or call it quits and leave it alone. DO NOT BUY VHT! 9 bucks a can of pure fail.
