diesel? Simple green? non flammable paint thinner? Mineral spirits? Parts washer solvent? I used diesel in my old one and liked the results, but it left a film on the parts.
IP: Logged
08:13 PM
PFF
System Bot
84fiero123 Member
Posts: 29950 From: farmington, maine usa Registered: Oct 2004
ill be honest when i glanced at the title i first thought it said "what should i fill my PANTS with" i need to start wearing my glasses.... or not think the way i do.
diesel? no, flammable Simple green? no, too weak. non flammable paint thinner? maybe Mineral spirits? no, flammable even explosive. Parts washer solvent? yes, I think some are available at retail stores.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I know Autozone carries parts washer solvent for their commercial customers, might ask if they'll sell it to an individual. Otherwise see if you have a Safety Klean nearby
IP: Logged
09:40 PM
carnut122 Member
Posts: 9122 From: Waleska, GA, USA Registered: Jan 2004
We have PD-680 at work, will that due?. I should have clarified, last time I ran diluted diesel and while it worked really good it left that nasty film.
I had 5 gallons of kerosine left over, so that''s what I put in mine. But, I do keep it out in my lawnmower shed-just in case.
My old neighbor when I lived in California used a kerosine and motorcycle battery acid mixture if I remember correctly. Worked really well, but I wouldn't want to do it...
IP: Logged
11:19 PM
Jun 9th, 2012
E.Furgal Member
Posts: 11708 From: LAND OF CONFUSION Registered: Mar 2012
Advanced autoparts will have 5gallon jugs of non flamable parts cleaner.. don't be cheap ask what the "shops" buy.. if you have a seafety klean that will sell to you. then that would work too..
POTENTIAL PHYSICAL / CHEMICAL EFFECTS Combustible. Material can release vapors that readily form flammable mixtures. Vapor accumulation could flash and/or explode if ignited. Material can accumulate static charges which may cause an ignition.
POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS Possible human cancer hazard. If swallowed, may be aspirated and cause lung damage. May be irritating to the eyes, nose, throat, and lungs. Repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking.
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS Toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.
quote
Originally posted by 87antuzzi: We have PD-680 at work, will that due?
Anything that is flammable is even worse in parts cleaning. Why? Large/huge amount of area to evaporate from. Sprays and stream of fluid cause fluid to evaporate even faster.
Diesel and others solvents are hard to light when sitting. Atomize it and can/will burn fast, very fast.
That's an old can, but Varsol is the proper stuff.
Texas pecans--with a can of Varsol?? That, doesn't sound very tasty.
Varsol (thanks for buying Exxon products btw) is old school. 1. Still combustible, tho not "too" bad. 2. It will dry the heck out of your hands.
Varsol in the last 10 years has become pretty pricey, and there are differnt kinds of Varsol.nowdays. The name is followed by a number, and each is for a different purpose. Varsol is just mineral spirits IIRC.
Here's one suggestion I read elsewhere:
Two parts kerosene, two parts mineral sperits, one part WD 40 and one Qt. ATF.
The guy said he had tried to light it, and it wouldn't flash off no matter what, but I have no verification of that. Take it for what it's worth.
IP: Logged
02:13 AM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38384 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
POTENTIAL PHYSICAL / CHEMICAL EFFECTS Combustible. Material can release vapors that readily form flammable mixtures. Vapor accumulation could flash and/or explode if ignited. Material can accumulate static charges which may cause an ignition.
POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS Possible human cancer hazard. If swallowed, may be aspirated and cause lung damage. May be irritating to the eyes, nose, throat, and lungs. Repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking.
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS Toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.
Well damn, that's what the shop I worked for back in the 70's used. I've just continued to use the same stuff all these years later in my own little parts washer. I guess the only good thing then is that my parts washer is located outside in the carport.
quote
Originally posted by maryjane:
It will dry the heck out of your hands.
Interesting you should mention that Don, as that's one of the main reasons I quit that particular job after four years back in the 70's. My hands were so dried out from being in varsol half the day that if I made a fist, the skin on every knuckle would crack open and bleed.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-09-2012).]
IP: Logged
02:15 AM
NoMoreRicers Member
Posts: 2192 From: Spokane, WA Registered: Mar 2009
One of the old gunsmiths at the American Gunsmithing Institute always uses concentrated Simple Green to clean all of his gun parts. I think at Costco you can buy the concentrate.
Yeah, I got a box of 100 from work today and talked with the boss. I can get solvent at cost through work but only in 55 gallon drums so im trying to get my work to eat half the cost and re fill the parts washer at work.
IP: Logged
09:37 AM
outlawfiero17 Member
Posts: 1450 From: sacramento, CA Registered: Jul 2009
diesel? Simple green? non flammable paint thinner? Mineral spirits? Parts washer solvent? I used diesel in my old one and liked the results, but it left a film on the parts.
Parts Washer Cleaning Solvent, Super Agitene, Container Size 5 Gal, Color Dark Green, Flash Point 141 F, Removes Grease and Oil, Non Hazardous Formulation Includes Lanolin To Reduce Skin Irritation and Chapping
Originally posted by NoMoreRicers: One of the old gunsmiths at the American Gunsmithing Institute always uses concentrated Simple Green to clean all of his gun parts. I think at Costco you can buy the concentrate.
Yes, concentrate SG and some other could work for car use. (I use dish soap and water to clean new rotors...) Main problem is many washers are metal construction... Soap & water can be hard on metal units/parts.
IP: Logged
12:32 AM
mferrell Member
Posts: 243 From: Elkveiw, Wv, USA Registered: Feb 2012
I use purple power currently. I have also used tornado in the past. but about any of the degreasers work well and most arent flammable or hazardous to you.
IP: Logged
08:29 AM
cliffw Member
Posts: 37533 From: Bandera, Texas, USA Registered: Jun 2003
Have you ever had greasy hands from working on a car and then eaten fried chicken ? The chicken grease/oil cuts automotive grease well. When I worked at a shop, we got a state of the art parts washer. It had a cleaning cycle for the fluid which was done once a week. I am thinking it was some kind of a heater (it's been awhile). Just like you change car oil when it's warm, our parts washer's cleaning system warmed the fluid then ejected what was dirty. I can't remember what the fluid was but it was some type of oil, which did not leave a residue which then needed to be cleaned other than wiping dry.
Have you ever had greasy hands from working on a car and then eaten fried chicken ? The chicken grease/oil cuts automotive grease well.
It's a fundamental principle of selecting solvents: like dissolves like. Water, alcohols, acetone, MEK, etc. may remove oil, but another light oil (mineral spirits, Stoddard Solvent, etc.) will usually do the job better. Of course, you also have to be able to remove the solvent, which is why many cleaners include an emulsifier component that allows a final water rinse. Common soap, for example, is essentially nothing but oil(s) combined with an emulsifier.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 06-13-2012).]
IP: Logged
05:15 PM
avengador1 Member
Posts: 35468 From: Orlando, Florida Registered: Oct 2001
A manufacturer's web site is not always the best place to go for honest and unbiased comparisons and technical information ... except perhaps for the MSDS info. (The same could be said for political web sites, but I digress ... and I'm confident it wouldn't have any effect anyway.)
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 06-13-2012).]
Any information from anyone? I am needing to buy one and would like some feedback.
The parts washer currently in my shop is a 20 gallon model from Harbor Freight, and it works well enough for most small jobs. Even though the lid has a fire-safe prop, the pump they supply is specifically labeled NOT for use with petroleum solvents. I did buy a separate flow-through brush and hose that supplies solvent directly through the brush, and that works REALLY well for me. Wish list:
1) A solvent heater would be really nice, especially in winter, but it's easy enough to add one yourself. 2) A filter to remove sludge from the solvent would be even nicer, but that would be more difficult and expensive to implement in such a low priced tank/pump. 3) It would be nice to be able to control the solvent flow rate. 4) Lockable roll-around casters would be handy, too.
The water-based solvent I used started to remove the paint from the inside of the tank in fairly short order, and after a few months there were beginning signs of rust. Since I use my tank only occasionally I installed a ball-type drain valve (the bung was already present) and now just drain the tank between uses. The drain also helps in disposing of the sludge that accumulates in the bottom of the tank. The model I have (purchased in 2001) has been discontinued, but Harbor Freight still lists two other 20-gallon parts washers that appear to be almost identical to mine; the usual price is about $100 ... maybe $80 on sale. I guess it says something that my cheapie parts washer is still usable after 11 years of intermittent service.
Whatever solvent you use, be prepared to invest in a decent shop apron and some chemical-resistant gloves. You'll be glad you did. I hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 06-18-2012).]
IP: Logged
02:30 PM
87antuzzi Member
Posts: 11151 From: Surrounded by corn. Registered: Feb 2009
This is the one I got. Harbor Freight 30 gallon. The construction of it feels like a good value, however I wish the pump was of better quality with metal impellers. If the pump does fail I can get a "screw" style pump from my work with a Baldor motor that will last forever. I have not filled it or used it yet.
[This message has been edited by 87antuzzi (edited 06-14-2012).]
I think we are wanting to go with one a little nicer than the harbor freight options. They is a Kleantec I like for about $1500, but I am sure it is over-kill. We sell stainless steel and just occasionally get some grimy parts in. I want to use something super abrasive as a cleaner, since we will just be cleaning high-nickel alloys.
IP: Logged
04:47 PM
87antuzzi Member
Posts: 11151 From: Surrounded by corn. Registered: Feb 2009
I used diesel in my old one and liked the results, but it left a film on the parts.
quote
Meh, this is just to knock the crap off before it gets bead blasted.
In that case you don't want to be using #2 diesel fuel, even totally ignoring the flammability issue. The surface residue left by the diesel fuel will contaminate the abrasive media in your blast cabinet. Surface contamination is a big problem if you ever want to paint anything after bead blasting it.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 06-18-2012).]
IP: Logged
09:47 PM
Lambo nut Member
Posts: 4442 From: Centralia,Missouri. USA Registered: Sep 2003
In that case you don't want to be using #2 diesel fuel, even totally ignoring the flammability issue. The surface residue left by the diesel fuel will contaminate the abrasive media in your blast cabinet. Surface contamination is a big problem if you ever want to paint anything after bead blasting it.
FWIW........I have had good luck so far with:
Steel /Non porous part: Harbor freight parts washer, #2 diesel, wash off part afterwards with hot water in tub sink, dry, bead blast (with Harbor freight cabinet by the way), powder coat (Eastwood system).
Cast/ Porous part: Harbor freight parts washer, #2 diesel, wash off part afterwards with hot water in tub sink, dry, bake in oven, beadblast, then powder coat.
As for flammability, anybody want to try and pour out some diesel on the floor and light it with a match? When you get tired of trying that, do the same with kerosene.
I've just continued to use the same stuff all these years later in my own little parts washer. I guess the only good thing then is that my parts washer is located outside in the carport.
