How about a pull trailer.

Only trailer on my mind is one to pull the snowmobile with. Thing is a PITA to load into the box of the truck. 460lbs dry. I push it up to the truck, lift the front in then move to the back lifting and pushing it in. Looking for a 2 place trailer or might just buy some ramps to get by for now.
One thing I notice is the brake lever travel is really tight, only moves a bit. The rotor and pads look good in the caliper, might be looking at a brake cable. Lever only travels like it's locked but I don't see a lock on the thing. Can't wait to tear into it once I get my manual, been waiting for something to do.

http://omaha.craigslist.org/rvs/3527683850.html

I have a 2013 6 1/2' wide by 10 long trailer with ramps for sale or trade. It has ramps. I am looking for a flat bottom boat at least 17' long or bow hunting items. Email or text or call 712-281-0813

quote Originally posted by Fiero_Fan_88: ........... One thing I notice is the brake lever travel is really tight, only moves a bit. The rotor and pads look good in the caliper, might be looking at a brake cable. Lever only travels like it's locked but I don't see a lock on the thing. Can't wait to tear into it once I get my manual, been waiting for something to do.

Mine is the same.
Rarely use the brake unless you have to make a quick stop.

quote Originally posted by nmw75: Mine is the same. Rarely use the brake unless you have to make a quick stop.

I've been doing a little research, the brake lever only travels a 1/4in. tops. It's acting as if the parking brake is on. There is no brake light on, the track spins when I lift it off the ground with no burning smell. The pads are right on the rotor though. I read that they had a parking brake but the lever snapped so often it became "optional". Wondering if the lever broke off but it's still holding. Rotor and pads look good. Line comes up from the caliper to the master cylinder/lever on the handle bars. When I squeeze it I see no clamping at all. Fluid is full. Now I am doing this all with the sled not running, Do I need it running for it to operate? I don't know, new to this... no brake booster or nothing!
Here is what I'm dealing with...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pol...em2326a3d4ed&vxp=mtr

Some sleds have brake cable adjusters, some also have caliper adjusters. Some pads always look tight on the disk. I'm not real into that Polaris to know. They shouldnt be actually grabbing the disk though. Could be the parking brake. I never use a parking brake.

At what rpm does the clutch engage the track to move it?

Also if you lift the sled (can place a block or board to prop up the rear so it stays up) and run it and give it some gas you can try that way too. Brakes get hot when not used yet? Track stops immediatly after you let off throttle?

You could also spin the bogey wheels by hand (with the track not rubbing on them, to see if they spin ok (bearings are good) and none are siezed.

Track has adjusters for how tight it is as well.

Here is a pretty good sled forum:
http://www.snowmobileforum....-brake-question.html

http://www.snowmobileforum....help-87-polaris.html
"On the caliper, there is a set screw that you can turn to adjust the pad clearance (as the pads wear).
Turn it in till it hits the pads against the rotor and then back out 1/2 turn, then refill the resiviour with brake fluid. "

http://www.snowmobileforum....problems-jammed.html

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 01-08-2013).]

Just doing some follow up. Spent the better part of 4 hours learning and working. I did a flush and refill of the entire coolant system. Based on the northern temperatures of where I'm looking to ride did a 60/40 mix. Took the cover off the chain case, inspected and adjusted the chain to manufacturers specs. Refilled with fresh oil. Old oil was disgusting. Practically looked like sludge. Chain and gears showed 0 wear, good news. I opened the brake bleed valve up all the way and had no flow. So I pulled the brake line at the caliper, still nothing. Pulled the line just post of the reservoir/cylinder. Sure enough fluid came spraying out and lever finally went to the bars. Found some mud like substance in the line. Pushed it out using some chicken wire, floated the line in some rubber safe solvent, then blew the old line out with air. Bled the system, works like a charm. Had the rear in the air and ran it to 100mph indicated, pulled the lever and that thing came to a stop real fast. Based on the condition of the chain case oil I went ahead and pulled all the oil line and sprayed them out doing a complete flush on the oil injection system. Checked all the grease fittings on the suspension, looks like the dealer did it for me before I picked it up. I was able to do everything I wanted to do just short of changing plugs and wires but I need to order those. I was told to order 9 to be safe... That sound right?
In any case enjoy the sound of a triple.

Well small update as I pulled it out of the garage...
Ran the sled up and let it idle until the old fuel in the tank was empty. I never really payed too much attention to the RPM gauge but, a little gremlin worked it's way in.
When the sled is at Idle the gauge indicated 900 +/- 100rpm which I'm aware of as low according to the service manual and placard under the hood. I should be at 1800 +/- 200. So I am aware of the low idle but when watching the tach it indicates 900 and after a minute it dropped off completely to 0 but the sled maintains a constant idle. My tach is only registering with me on the gas. I've been going through the service manual which is very vague but I'm not sure if its pulling signal from the stator or cdi module. The wiring diagram is useless outside of warmers and lights. Any one have any insight on something like this? I know the gauge has some accuracy as the clutches are supposed to engage at 4,100rpm and it does just that when the gauge hits 4100.

Just not sure if my idle is too low for the gauge to register constant or the stator is going south... Plan to look into more when no one will get mad for running a snowmobile at 4am on a Saturday.
Please ignore the rattle, the hood isn't latched.

Went out yesterday.

quote Originally posted by Fiero_Fan_88: watching the tach it indicates 900 and after a minute it dropped off completely to 0 but the sled maintains a constant idle. My tach is only registering with me on the gas.

If it were mine Id probably say it sounds good idles good dont fix it if it works. I'm not sure what runs the tach on those. Maybe look for bad/loose/corroded wire connections?

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 02-08-2013).]

Well I adjusted the idle up to 1800rpms warm, no more issues. Now I have a strong running sled with nothing wrong. After the past few times loading it alone into a pick up box... to hell with that. Spent my day off building an 8ft. loading ramp. She's not pretty but it works, aluminum frame with iron cross members. Hinged at the 4ft mark with some iron going across the top to remove the flex on the hinge when weight is applies. Using 3/16 braided lines and carabiners to attach it to the truck so it won't kick out.

[This message has been edited by Fiero_Fan_88 (edited 02-18-2013).]

Packing and loading up to go to the black hills on Friday. Any suggestions? Booked a hotel on the outskirts of Rapid City, looking to cover about 1,000 over the span of 3 days. Anything to check out in this area? How close will we be to Mt. Rushmore?
My sled is from Red Wing, MN which only has an elevation of 750ft, I haven't had any problems around here with an elevation of 1,100ft. However going into the black hills we should be seeing around 6,000ft. This is my first Carbed vehicle, is there going to be any changes that need to be made? I've been reading about "jetting" where I take the carbs off and do something to the main jet needle. No idea, what it is I do though, my manual is just all numbers to me. Advice?

You may find that the motor bogs if you don't re-jet for the higher altitude. (rich condition)
If you do re-jet don't forget to put the larger jets back in when you run it at your normal elevation or you'll melt some pistons! (lean condition)

------------------
86 GT
87 coupe restoration project.

Sorry man I dont know the specifics either. I think you need smaller jets, or if there is a needle you need to move it to restrict the fuel entering. "10 - 40 = 175" 175 must be a jet or needle size. What I would do is call a Polaris dealer and ask the shop desk. I searched and found no specifics. You could try searching Youtube maybe someone posted how to do your sled.

Basic idea:
"Air and Altitude
Altitude is determined by how far you are above sea level. Low altitude areas are considered be areas that are at slightly above to even somewhat below sea level. High altitude is typically considered to be areas over 8,000 feet above sea level. The higher you go in altitude, the lower the air density and air pressure because fewer oxygen molecules are in the air around you.

Carburetors
All combustion engines run by burning a mixture of air and fuel to generate power. In fact, engines do not burn liquid gasoline at all. The fuel has to mixed with air and vaporized into a gas before the engine is able to use it to generate power. In a carbureted engine, the carburetor adjusts the fuel mixture and delivers fuel to the combustion chambers. Carburetors periodically have to be adjusted for a certain range in order for the vehicle to run properly. Typically, this occurs when the climate of an area is drastically different from the climate where the vehicle is normally used and runs well.

Fuel Mixtures and Altitude
While minor changes in altitude should not have any affect on the vehicle, major changes are almost guaranteed to affect the fuel mixture. When you dramatically change altitude without adjusting the carburetor, your vehicle's fuel mixture contains significantly less air than it did at lower altitudes. You can expect to have to adjust the jetting on your ATV's carburetor to compensate for the changes in the fuel-air mixture. The jets on your carburetor determine how the fuel-air mixture is mixed and delivered to your engine. Potential problems include high fuel consumption, rough idling, rough running, loss of power, knocking, pinging and even overheating.

Gasoline
Your ATV's carburetor is not the only thing that may be affected by the altitude. Whether you are bringing a vehicle from a low-altitude area to a high-altitude area or vice-versa, you will need to take into consideration what type of gasoline you are using. Gasoline in different areas may be formulated differently. You may have to adjust your ATV's carburetor to accommodate different gasoline mixtures and consistency if you do not bring fuel with you."
-ehow

This is the only kind of altitude I get :

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 03-07-2013).]

Photoshopped

I figured out everything fuel wise. The main stock jet is a #200 with a #35 secondary. It will run a little rich up there but not enough to really hurt it. I switched out my champion RNC3's for NGK BR8ES, read the sled will burn a little better. On the old champions they were very oil soaked. I turned down the oil a little but I wonder if it is from me running synthetic 2 stroke and she isn't able to burn it cleanly. Looked great other than that.... Have the gear ready, clothes packed, trail maps out and highlighted, truck prepped. Just waiting for my leave to start at 0000 Friday and I am hitting the road.

quote Originally posted by Fiero_Fan_88: Photoshopped I figured out everything fuel wise. The main stock jet is a #200 with a #35 secondary. It will run a little rich up there but not enough to really hurt it. I switched out my champion RNC3's for NGK BR8ES, read the sled will burn a little better. On the old champions they were very oil soaked. I turned down the oil a little but I wonder if it is from me running synthetic 2 stroke and she isn't able to burn it cleanly. Looked great other than that.... Have the gear ready, clothes packed, trail maps out and highlighted, truck prepped. Just waiting for my leave to start at 0000 Friday and I am hitting the road.

not photoshopped

Yeah we always run NGKs BR8es or BR9es. Champions I never had good luck with except 4 stroke lawnmowers. Bring spare plugs, maybe even some 9s in case it doesnt like the 8s but 8s are a littel "hotter" which should burn any extra gas better. Be prepared and have fun I'm kind of jealous.

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 03-07-2013).]

quote Originally posted by 2.5: not photoshopped Yeah we always run NGKs BR8es or BR9es. Champions I never had good luck with except 4 stroke lawnmowers. Bring spare plugs, maybe even some 9s in case it doesnt like the 8s but 8s are a littel "hotter" which should burn any extra gas better. Be prepared and have fun I'm kind of jealous.

I'm just jealous, the most I can get for air/distance is driveway jumping in the country. I did hit my first snowdrifts for the first time last weekend. Only hit them head on at about 25 due to the ditch dipping down. Got to comfortable and wasn't paying attention, saw a rock a farmer used to mark his property line, whipped it right at the last moment, sled went right I went straight. Thank goodness KLIM loads there gear with padding. I was running on some farmers land and I noticed he was watching me like a hawk, turns out he was getting the itch and came out to play...
Came out on his RMK, lost to him hardcore in drag but, if we rolled on it she could hang when he ran out of gears


Is it the BR8's that run hotter? I thought it was the 9's. Do you think I should worry at all about the oil not getting completely burned out? It's Valvoline 2-Stroke Synthetic that says "Snowmobile Safe"
Never mind, retract that question. The lower the number in the NGK's the hotter, the lower the number in champions the colder.

[This message has been edited by Fiero_Fan_88 (edited 03-07-2013).]

If the oil isnt fouling the plugs out, or you arent refilling the reservoir alot I wouldnt worry. I had an exciter that went thru alot of oil, the only side effect was smoke, it ran fine. (It was well lubed!) With oil injected sleds I'm always wary to reduce oil mixture because you are reducing the lube, you cant tell what it is or was. On an old old sled where you premix you know what mixture you are putting in. I would bet if those 8s are hotter than the champions you had it will help with oil as well. Black can mean too much fuel (rich) too, if they were black. I use this oil from fleet farm, my brother uses it in his Indy as well:

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 03-07-2013).]

I went ahead and readjusted the oil injection per the Clymer manual. When I was riding up the ramp the damn track stopped and a rolled back, realigned and gunned it up. Belt started slipping, switched it out with a new belt, no more problems. The one I took off stretched pretty bad on me, turns out the belt was new, just old NOS part. Will have to hit up a dealer on the way up for a new belt.

Give this a try:

http://www.youtube.com/watc...cK4&feature=youtu.be

[This message has been edited by nmw75 (edited 03-07-2013).]

quote Originally posted by Fiero_Fan_88: I went ahead and readjusted the oil injection per the Clymer manual. When I was riding up the ramp the damn track stopped and a rolled back, realigned and gunned it up. Belt started slipping, switched it out with a new belt, no more problems. The one I took off stretched pretty bad on me, turns out the belt was new, just old NOS part. Will have to hit up a dealer on the way up for a new belt.

Bring some spare belts too

I used to run with the sled necks heres a few shots we took when we lived in colorado

I used this machine for freestyle crap. It was a modded chassis with a 700 redone and stuffed into a 600 cowl n pan. Lightened up a lot too. That motor was a pain in the ass lol





ran probes on her also finished it off on juice



built this for the wife it was about a 940 when done with a timberline skid modded paddle track and raised bars. She tossed that little sled well before it melted down the first time lol



This was my baby i took this shot over winter park i believe in colorado. She was over 240 horse when finished. It would stand up like a mofo and clime anything you pointed up. Ran flawless and I traded it for a 66 cutlass lol



I seriously miss it but im building these now here in Tx

quote Originally posted by Stript96: She was over 240 horse when finished. ...

Yowza!
Ya my sleds have been near stock antiques compared to you guys.
I bet you could make my 485 Phazer snappier

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 03-07-2013).]

Sitting up in Spearfish, SD. Took the XLT out for a small test. Gambled on not jetting. Lost, runs like crap and can't get above 5k rpm. Sled wont even move under its own power. Backtracked to Ellsworth AFB, rented a sled. 2009 Yamaha Venture. 2up but it works.

quote Originally posted by Fiero_Fan_88: Sitting up in Spearfish, SD. Took the XLT out for a small test. Gambled on not jetting. Lost, runs like crap and can't get above 5k rpm. Sled wont even move under its own power. Backtracked to Ellsworth AFB, rented a sled. 2009 Yamaha Venture. 2up but it works.

Take a few picws while you are out sledding

1049CC, 144in track, fuel injected... Hell of a time. I managed to wreck the thing twice. Jumped a creek doing 65 by mistake and screwed up my back a little. Only put a small dent in the control arm, was able to straighten it out though. Damn sled is a tank at 800lbs wet. Also tried jumping it and bent the windshield mount coming down sideways. $10 in some new screws and a few bends later, good as new. Still a little mad about not jetting my polaris as I really wanted to ride it. So now I'm thinking about flipping a coin...
A- Frankensled
B- Get it running right again, sell, and buy a new Skidoo MXZ with the 600 ACE.

Looks like fun thanks for posting pics.
Yeah dont get too spoiled by that new machine!

quote Originally posted by Fiero_Fan_88: Sitting up in Spearfish, SD. Took the XLT out for a small test. Gambled on not jetting. Lost, runs like crap and can't get above 5k rpm. Sled wont even move under its own power. Backtracked to Ellsworth AFB, rented a sled. 2009 Yamaha Venture. 2up but it works.

I feel like I have another Fiero, damn she is temperamental. I couldn't get it to fire in the garage after 30pulls. Turns out I flooded it. Sucked the fuel out of the cylinders, full choke and vroom. Took off on me. Thank god I was sitting on it, forgot we played with the idle speed. Turned it down and apologized for riding the Yamaha and we were good. 1900rpm when warm. 1 pull starts. Jacked it up and it runs like a new sled down here.

Too bad I decided I want a Skidoo Renegade. Any one interested by chance? Just looking to let it go for what I paid $1,000.

1,100 miles, 21 Hours, and 96 gallons of gas later. She is home at last, 2006 Polaris Fusion 600HO. extended to 136" and a few other mods.