Ive got a few old headlights that we have restored to use as accessory lighting in our home bar. The model T lights were super simple; used different bulbs and sockets than they were set up for. Now, we have a more modern (1940 Caddy) headlight using a newer style sealed glass light. So, what needs to be done electrically in order to plug it in to 120v home outlet?

Thanks for your expertise!

Get a 12VDC power supply.

Transformer. Probably something more substantial than a "wall wart".
I'm thinking something that is capable of supplying 12V @ 10 Amps. (It may not use 10A continuously, but the turn-on current may be kind of high.)
Since it's just a bulb, it will run on 12V AC just as easily as 12V DC.

I don't know your exact setup. A small battery to hold the load and maybe a trickle charger? I have an ice chest radio and that is how I do it. They may make something a bit more eloquent, but I would be worried about having something in the middle to act as a fail safe.

quote Originally posted by ls3mach: I don't know your exact setup. A small battery to hold the load and maybe a trickle charger? I have an ice chest radio and that is how I do it. They may make something a bit more eloquent, but I would be worried about having something in the middle to act as a fail safe.

I use that kind of setup to run a car radio in the shop but a 6 Amp charger, I can turn the radio all the way up and the battery keeps it running just fine and when it needs the juice the charger keeps the battery up to power. depending on how often and long you keep them on that should work just fine for you.

Steve

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quote Originally posted by 84fiero123: I use that kind of setup to run a car radio in the shop but a 6 Amp charger, I can turn the radio all the way up and the battery keeps it running just fine and when it needs the juice the charger keeps the battery up to power. depending on how often and long you keep them on that should work just fine for you. Steve

Very similar to what I have. I actually made mine to travel on the river with me. I can put about 30 beers and still have music for the duration of the float. I went with a bluetooth radio, marine speakers, and a lawn mower battery. Put a couple stainless studs for charger on the top. Been using it for 1-2 years now. Mostly in the garage when I have a bunch of company over. The river it works great, but is too damn heavy. Even with wheels. It floats fine in a raft, but is quite cumbersome once we all get intoxicated. That and it never fits in the taxi trunk well.

Some household 120 volt halogen fixtures use 12 volt bulbs. Maybe you can wire the headlight to the power supply...

Out-door "low-voltage" patio/garden lighting runs on 12v. Transformers aren't particularly cheap, mind-you. You can get them in various wattages. Low-voltage track lighting runs on the same, as mentioned before. A car charger (12 amps or so) should run 2 headlights, though you want one that will limit the voltage to 14.4v or less (auto-off). A normal(dumb?) charger won't limit voltage, could burn out your bulbs. An intelligent charger won't turn on without some voltage already being there, so you might need a battery(Sealed lead acid?) or some such in parallel with it.

Just go to Home Depot and get the 12V puck light kit used for under kitchen cupboards. Just wire it to the headlight harness.

Or find an old computer battery back-up with dead batteries. Hook your lights up to where the battery was. I've used several for power inverters, best thing is they're usually free. People throw them out when the batteries crap out.

All you need is a plug in wall transformer with the wattage rated for the lights. I run 12v tvs, CBs, stereos and vcrs off of them. Try Micro Center or Radio Shack.

https://www.google.com/sear..........0.7w0w335BtC0

Get a warm white LED bulb in there so you use less juice.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Get a warm white LED bulb in there so you use less juice.

This is probably the best option. Headlights are around 50w and produce a good amount of heat. with warm LED, you might be able to get away with a 1 or 2A wall transformer. Like to one used on cable modems.

I dont know how you would put an LED in a glass sealed beam bulb............? If you could do that, why not just put a 120v bulb in it......?

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Get a 12VDC power supply.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: Transformer. Probably something more substantial than a "wall wart". I'm thinking something that is capable of supplying 12V @ 10 Amps. (It may not use 10A continuously, but the turn-on current may be kind of high.) Since it's just a bulb, it will run on 12V AC just as easily as 12V DC.

These are the only two really sound suggestions so far. Battery chargers are not intended for continuous use as power supplies. You may find a suitable garden lamp power supply or halogen lighting power supply, but be very careful to get one with adequate power output. Old-style iron-core transformers are well suited for a job like this, but they are substantially heavier and more expensive than modern electronic (switching-type) power supplies.

The size of the 12 volt transformer or power supply you need will depend upon the total power requirement of all the headlamps you plan to have lighted simultaneously. (I presume you want the headlights to operate at full brightness. If not, then you need to use something less than the lamps' full rated voltage.) If you don't know the actual power draw of your lights, you will probably be safe estimating 35 watts (3 amps) each for antique (pre-1960) headlamps and 60 watts (5 amps) each for more modern sealed-beam or halogen headlamps. Add up the current (amps) that all of your lamps will draw, add 25% extra as a safety factor, and that should be the size transformer or power supply you're looking for. Be aware that most automotive electrical systems (and thus most headlights) prior to 1956 ran at 6-7 volts (6.3 volt battery), not 12-14 volts (12.6 volt battery).

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 01-21-2014).]

You have a few options for LED. #1 eBay see if there is aftermarket plastic housing to replace to sealed beam bulbs and fit the LED inside. #2 YouTube how to cut a beer bottle with a string. It should apply to the sealed beam and you can cut the bac off and insert an LED.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I dont know how you would put an LED in a glass sealed beam bulb............? If you could do that, why not just put a 120v bulb in it......?

This would be ideal! Anyone know how to cut the back out of a sealed light effectively?

Thanks everyone for the ideas!

quote Originally posted by psychosurfer: This would be ideal! Anyone know how to cut the back out of a sealed light effectively? Thanks everyone for the ideas!

Will that same process work safely with a sealed headlight? Sorry to be so ignorant, just don;t want to have a pressure issue blow the glass in my face.... my beautiful face... lol

quote Originally posted by psychosurfer: Will that same process work safely with a sealed headlight? Sorry to be so ignorant, just don;t want to have a pressure issue blow the glass in my face.... my beautiful face... lol

How's about a continuous rim diamon blade in a wet tile saw? They're made for cutting glass tiles. The water will keep it cool/lubricated so it doesnt shatter...in theory!

quote Originally posted by Stubby79: How's about a continuous rim diamon blade in a wet tile saw? They're made for cutting glass tiles. The water will keep it cool/lubricated so it doesnt shatter...in theory!

No, it could still easily break the light.

We used to cut bottles to sell at craft shows.

Take a dremel blade, and score around the area you want to cut, just score it barely.

Wrap a wire around the score mark.

Connect a battery to the wire, and watch it heat up.

The light will "pop" right where you scored, where the wire is wrapped.

Sand off any sharp edges.

Video the entire thing so the next guy knows what to do.

Brad

You could always use an H4 housing instead of the sealed beam, they're available in the same sizes as just about any sealed beam and aren't sealed. Instead of using the halogen bulb run with the high wattage LED idea. The H4s are cheap on Ebay, think Hella knockoffs.

I would think any heat on a sealed beam bulb would ruin the thin brite aluminized reflective coating. You wouldnt want to cut it in half like a bottle. Youd need to put like a1" round hole in the back, prob around the contact blades. Are there still some plastic sealed beams out there ? I know NAPA made a replacement a few years ago that replace standard sealed beams in older cars that looked like OEM but had a replaceable halogen bulb. They were expensive though, like several hundred dollars at the Good Guys Show.