Kevin, Mine came today. It's to dark out to put it in tonite, have to do it over the weekend. The thing looks like it just came out of the factory. Thanks again
------------------ Mark Hoagland 861/2GT 3.4 5-speed 88GT T-Top yellow 86SE 2M6 auto
Kevin, just an update. I received mine, and went out tonight and installed it in my wife's 94 Grand Prix, which had the cassette version of this radio already installed. The hardest part was getting the faceplate off of the radio...had to take the console out to get it off! The CD player took all of 2 minutes to swap out once I got the faceplate off, and everything works great...even the steering wheel radio controls. Wife loves it. For anyone who is considering buying one of these CD players from Kevin, I will HIGHLY recommend him. Mine looked and performed like a brand new one...count me in as one very satisfied customer. I may be back to buy another one for the Fiero!
Recieved the radio I ordered from Kevin. Started installing late last night but ran into some problems. Went back out this morning and while checking everything out I found I had a blown Batt. fuse. Thought I did it pulling out the old radio but after blowing the second fuse, I installed another and after a few seconds it smelled like something was burning..now I was starting to get worried !! But luckily I pinned it down to of all things the cig. lighter!! While working in the car last night I must have pushed in the lighter and somehow it got stuck and didn't pop out! Just kept heating the element until it blew the fuse !! Freak thing to happen!! I had talked with Kevin last night about the wiring and want to say he was very quick to respond to my Emails and to offer any help he could including replacing the radio if I could not find the problem. Excellent person to deal with and highly recommend him to anyone looking for one of these radios or any other future deals he my come up with. Thanks Kevin
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11:36 AM
Nov 16th, 2002
kru Member
Posts: 611 From: Effingham, IL, USA Registered: Jun 2002
I have 15 more of these packages available. Surely some more of you folks are interested. I think the feedback here speaks for itself. This is a sweet set-up.
[This message has been edited by kru (edited 11-05-2003).]
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12:27 PM
Tom Corey Member
Posts: 838 From: Melbourne, FL, USA Registered: Feb 2002
I'm having a slight problem. I have the premium sound system (subwoofer) and when I plug in the CD radio the subwoofer goes off with a continuous sound like a machine gun. Does that mean I have to cut the pink wire per one of the earllier replies onthis thread??
------------------ Tom Corey Melbourne, FL 87 Green T-Top GT 5Spd SBC V8 88 Yellow T-Top GT, 4.9L Caddy, 4T60E
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12:57 PM
PFF
System Bot
tgowens Member
Posts: 2496 From: Somewhere in my Fiero, of course! Registered: Apr 2000
I have one in my 88 GT and it is awesome. I went to a computer store open house and parked it by the front door. The owner about had a fit. He used to have an 87 and between the car and his store, the parking lot was full! Seems most folks have forgotten about Fieros around here.
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06:15 PM
Tom Corey Member
Posts: 838 From: Melbourne, FL, USA Registered: Feb 2002
Tom, cut them and splice them to the yellow wire like I mentioned earlier - that'll solve the problem.....
Guys, I did this, but I don't like it. This way the amp is on whenever the ignition is on, even if the radio is off. By the way, I found the installation not so quick. To install it carefully with the subwoofer system took me about 4 hours.
------------------ Tom Corey Melbourne, FL 87 Green T-Top GT 5Spd SBC V8 88 Yellow T-Top GT, 4.9L Caddy, 4T60E
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07:16 PM
partfiero Member
Posts: 6923 From: Tucson, Arizona Registered: Jan 2002
When you have a sub with these radios and don't want to cut the factory harness to get it to work, and don't want the amp to be on anytime the key is on even if the radio is off, try this. A single pole/single throw relay needs to be installed. These can be got at radio shack or any electronics supply (12volts/10 amps). They will have four terminals. Two terminals are for the coil and two are for the contacts. You can get all the wires from the adapter that comes with the cd. Clip the white wire(next to the red one)half way between the two plugs. The end of the white wire that comes from the radio will go to the (+) coil terminal of the relay and the other end of the white wire will go to one of the contact terminals on the relay. Clip the orange wire on the three-way black plug as close to the plug as possible. This wire will go to the other contact terminal on the relay. Clip the black wire at the four-way plug and it will go to the (-) coil terminal on the relay. You can then clip the tan wire on the four-way plug and discard both the both the three-way and four-way black plugs as they are not needed in this installation. Hope this is understandable. ken P>S> For you guys who don't want to install a relay, clip the white wire on the adapter and run the end that comes from the large black plug to an ignition source. That way your factory harness stays in tact for any future installations. Here is a radio shack relay that will work fine. http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F010%5F008%5F007%5F000&product%5Fid=275%2D226
[This message has been edited by partfiero (edited 11-16-2002).]
[This message has been edited by partfiero (edited 11-16-2002).]
[This message has been edited by partfiero (edited 11-19-2002).]
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07:47 PM
Nov 17th, 2002
litespd Member
Posts: 8128 From: No where you want to be Registered: Aug 99
To those of you still interested in this set-up. I have a few left with more on the way and another order to be placed tomorrow, so if you want one you can still get one! Heck, if you want two, you can even get two!! ($10 discount on each additional package as long as they're all shipped to the same place at the same time.) Email me if you need more information. Thanks. -Kevin
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09:31 PM
Nov 19th, 2002
kru Member
Posts: 611 From: Effingham, IL, USA Registered: Jun 2002
If you have the factory sub, there are several ways to get power to it. The TWO best ways are:
1. They way tgowens has explained above.
2. The way I prefer is to make one cut and one splice on the wire adapter. No need to make any cuts into your fiero wire harnes:
I will have do dig out my paperwork, but I think its wire "E" on the gm adapter harness that you "CUT". This is the power to the power antena that you don't have in the fiero. It does not supply enough power to the stock amp. Tape off the cut end on the radio side. Bare the other end and spice it into wire "F" (don not cut wire F, only bare a part of it. Wire F is the power wire when the key in on. The sub amp will always be on when the car is on, but this is the simplest way to do it. There are other ways but you would have to make cuts in your fiero's original wire harness...
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02:12 AM
PFF
System Bot
kru Member
Posts: 611 From: Effingham, IL, USA Registered: Jun 2002
You're talking about the radios out of some 2000 and newer vehicles. No, those aren't the ones I have. The ones you're talking about WON'T work in the Fiero. They are double-DIN size instead of DIN-and-a-half, which means they won't fit in the Fiero opening. Plus, they are integrated with the computer in the newer cars and won't work in a car that was not originally equipped with that style of radio.
The radios I'm selling are from the late 90's and early 00's (in a few instances). They come with either a cassette or CD player. The cars from those years that had both CD and cassette used a small remote player that was controlled by the head unit. If you want a stock looking Fiero installation without a bunch of mods, radios like mine are about the only way to go.
[This message has been edited by kru (edited 11-05-2003).]
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10:25 PM
Nov 22nd, 2002
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
Can you get that radio with the standard Chevy (light green or off-white) lighting instead of the orange lighting? I have a 2001 Sonoma with a factory CD player, and it's pretty horrible. Doesn't have the COMP button or the EQ. Just has several pre-programmed EQ settings, and "speed sensitive" volume. I'm guessing the plugs will match up. Do you know for sure?
------------------ Raydar
I'm not the fig plucker. I'm the fig plucker's son. But I'll pluck figs 'Til the fig plucker comes.
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09:47 PM
Nov 25th, 2002
kru Member
Posts: 611 From: Effingham, IL, USA Registered: Jun 2002
dose your supplier have any of the steering wheels that control the radios? i know you're already doing booming business now, but if they could be brought together as a retrofit into a fiero i'd be real interested in a couple. please consider it if there any possibility of it being doable.
hey kev..i got it installed last night but i have a slight problem, my factory sub keeps making funny "wump wump" sounds....any idea?? it does this after i turn up the volume a little.
Just a tip for you (and those who have bought the radios) - to install the UP3 radio in a Fiero without the Performance Sound system (sub-woofer), nothing needs to be done other than just plugging in the harness and antenna adapter.
To install in a Fiero with the Performance Sound System, there is one modification that needs to be made. You will need to cut the two pink wires which lead from the amplifier (under the carpet on the right side of the car next to the console support in the passenger footwell), strip appx. 1/2" to expose the wire and twist them together. Then locate a yellow wire from the car harness (not from the radio harness) and splice the pink wires to the yellow wire. You can do this by scraping off a section of the covering of the yellow wire without having to cut that one). The reason for doing this is because the pink wires will mate to blue wires in the radio harness - these are used for power antennas on some cars and do not have enough power to operate the sub-woofer amp. If you don't make this modification your sub will sound like a beating heart when you play the radio or CD unit.
It's a simple mod but it makes all the difference in the world!!
I hope this helps.........
quote
Originally posted by tgowens:
I forgot to tell you about a couple of other little tricks you need to do....... if you are having trouble inserting the blue plug into the back of the radio, insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the receptacle and the radio body and twist slightly to allow the plug to latch into the receptacle. If you don't get the plug inserted properly it can vibrate loose and you will have intermittent power to the radio and you will have to remove the radio and start all over again.
The next thing is this - when you remove the stock radio you will see a triangular shaped bracket with a hole in it in the rear of the radio compartment. This is held to the console support by two metal rivits. You will need to insert a large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar between the bracket and the console support and twist to pop out the bracket. It is not needed with the newer UP3 radio and failure to remove this bracket will cause it to press against the plug in the back of the radio and dislodge the plug (the plug on the newer UP3 radio is horizontally mounted whereas the plug on the older stock radio was mounted vertically and was not contacted by the bracket when in place). Also remember, by adding the newer wiring harness adapter you will have more wiring in place behind the radio. Do yourself a favor and remove the bracket before installing the new radio.
And last, when you install the new radio you will need to put spacers behind the radio brackets as you mount it to the console support with the 7mm screws. I use the small spark plug separators which are about 1/8" thick. This will allow the radio to be mounted flush with the trim plate when it is installed. Not putting the spacers on the mounting screws behind the brackets will cause a 1/8" gap between the trim plate and the face of the radio......
I've got more of these packages available. The radios are used but are in good condition and are tested prior to delivery. TheftLoc is DEACTIVATED, so no worries there.
