I would love to buy some stuff from you. I also need some other items done. But I can only imagine the shipping costs involved to ship from DE to OR back to DE .
But looks great....Im glad to hear the shop is back on its feet.
------------------ "Blessed be the LORD my strength which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight," Psalms 144:1.
88GT Red 5spd. 88GT Red TOP SECRET 88GT White Auto 87GT Silver 5spd daily driver "The Slug" 87GT Maroon auto 3800SC swap almost done (was to be mamapenguins car, change o plans) 85 SC Blue w/GT body on it. 85 SE Black auto
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05:52 PM
Apr 10th, 2005
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5234 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Electrathon, Is that red called ruby red on eastwood? I am going to blast my valve covers, lower, middle, and upper intake plenums before i send them to you and i was wondering if alluminum oxide work to strip them with. I am using a hobby shops blasting cabinet so i cant use glass beads so i have to use the alluminum oxide.
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01:50 AM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5234 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Yes, it is Eastwood ruby red. It is a true red, not the orange red that is factroy (vermillion is closer to factory).
Yes, Alluminum oxide will work. I have used both Alluminum oxide and slag. Slag is faster but is more agressive. I always burn the paint in the oven first, or it would take forever to blast it off. It is a very tough paint, almost as strong as powder coat.
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09:54 AM
MRBLUE87 Member
Posts: 290 From: Winnebago Illinois USA Registered: Jan 2003
any chance of a tech article on how your masking and setting up your overn? I've been trying a few things and getting 'eh' results. I think I'm not leaving the stuff in long enough and sections aren't melting enough, it looks like there is sand under the coating. Might also be that I've been trying the Harbor Freight powder. Been practicing on my student's Briggs engines they are rebuilding for an intro automotive high school class before moving on to my parts for my own cars :-) It isn't easy getting an even coating on deep finned areas.
Do you use some sort of temp sensor (infared temp gun maybe?) to tell when the item has reached correct temp to start the 15-20 minute countdown? I suspect my problem has been counting from time item enters oven. I'll have to try some more this week while the class is on spring break. Since I'm also using a household oven in my shop, I'm wondering how long a cast valve cover takes you about if time specified is 15-20 minutes. I've got a Holley cover I'd like to redo and don't want to screw it up.
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02:16 AM
PFF
System Bot
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5234 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
I think I'm not leaving the stuff in long enough and sections aren't melting enough, it looks like there is sand under the coating.
You are getting something called "outgassing". It is inpurities in the metal pores pushing out with the heat of the oven. You need to prebake your parts, at least as long as it is going to be in the oven, likely longer. If I was going to do a mower block I would put it in at 400 degrees for about an hour. This is done after it is already cleaned. Then let it cool and coat it. The "clean" cycle on the oven is your best friend to strip off mistakes, 20 minutes on clean and it will sandblast off easy.
quote
Originally posted by Scott-Wa: Might also be that I've been trying the Harbor Freight powder. Been practicing on my student's Briggs engines they are rebuilding for an intro automotive high school class before moving on to my parts for my own cars :-) It isn't easy getting an even coating on deep finned areas.
Get some good quality powder from Eastwood or Caswell. Better quality and there are far more color choices. When coating in corners or tight areas, let off the charge switch. The electricity will actually repel the powder in a corner. Coat the hardest areas first, the overspray will do the rest. That way you will not end up with it too thick in the main surface areas.
quote
Originally posted by Scott-Wa:
Do you use some sort of temp sensor (infared temp gun maybe?) to tell when the item has reached correct temp to start the 15-20 minute countdown? I suspect my problem has been counting from time item enters oven. I'll have to try some more this week while the class is on spring break. Since I'm also using a household oven in my shop, I'm wondering how long a cast valve cover takes you about if time specified is 15-20 minutes. I've got a Holley cover I'd like to redo and don't want to screw it up.
You start timing from the point that the powder turns shiney. A thin tin piece might flow out in a minute or two. A thick part might take 10 minutes to flow. The cast fiero covers take just under 5 minutes to totally flow out. The change trays sometimes flow before I get them all loaded into the oven. Overbaking is better than underbacking, if you are in doubt. The only temp sensor that I have is a thermomiter hanging in the oven.
It might be sort of fun to do a write up on what is involved with redoing a set of valve covers and intake.
[This message has been edited by Electrathon (edited 04-12-2005).]
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02:37 AM
MRBLUE87 Member
Posts: 290 From: Winnebago Illinois USA Registered: Jan 2003
Can you do parts in WHITE..?? Well, really more of an 'off white' kinda like a cream color..?? I want the 4.9L to match the color of what the choptop is going to be.. Also I will be doing the interior in the Cream and Navy Blue...
Thanks! Steve
ps. I have some stock parts I can send you in exchange for some work on the 4.9L parts.. Interested..?? I have 2 sets of V6 valve covers and a complete 2.8L that I can break down( ALL brackets, TB, etc... Think about it and PM me because I may forget about this thread..
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Choptytopped WideBody GT 1 of 1 4.9L-V8-Auto---almost finished
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06:39 PM
Scott-Wa Member
Posts: 5392 From: Tacoma, WA, USA Registered: Mar 2002
on the parts with more mass, do you try to powdercoat them hot at all?
No, I only preheat parts that have a second layer of powder going on. It is hard to judge the thickness of the powder buildup when the part is preheated. The leangth of time that it takes for the part to reach temperature os not an issue, just that it gets there.
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01:36 AM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5234 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
LOL I couldn't pass this one up There is a primer that can be used for powder coat, it might be easier to do your parts that way then to worry about painting smoothGT.
Steve, after your parts are all coated you will have to post an actual picture of what it looks like.
I'll have you finish up some of my other parts later this month/early next.
I was in the basement looking at the parts you have already done and they are REALLY REALLY REALLY nice. They look perfect. Just another bump for the quality of your work.
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02:30 PM
PFF
System Bot
Apr 22nd, 2005
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5234 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Aaron, thank you very much for powder-coating my air box! It looks absolutely fantastic!! I went back to the j/y today and all of the V6 air boxes were in really bad shape. One of them literally deteriorated in my hands with rust. I did pick up a pair of V6 air tubes and I'd like to send them to you to be powder-coated. I do like the smoked chrome, but I was thinking red. Then again the smoked chrome would look great. If you're looking for cores they have two other sets I could send to you too. LMK if you need them and how much to powder-coat.
Thanks again!!
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03:51 PM
fierobrian Member
Posts: 2976 From: aurora il 60505 Registered: Sep 2003
Aaron, thank you very much for powder-coating my air box! It looks absolutely fantastic!! I went back to the j/y today and all of the V6 air boxes were in really bad shape. One of them literally deteriorated in my hands with rust. I did pick up a pair of V6 air tubes and I'd like to send them to you to be powder-coated. I do like the smoked chrome, but I was thinking red. Then again the smoked chrome would look great. If you're looking for cores they have two other sets I could send to you too. LMK if you need them and how much to powder-coat.
Thanks again!!
Glad you are happy.
If you send me three sets of tubes I will send you one set back coated. You pay shipping to me, I will pay it back. I really like the chrome smoke on the air tubes best.
The pic of you car looks very nice too!
Aaron
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03:07 AM
May 16th, 2005
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5234 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Hey i have quite a few sets of ashtrays and would like one set back powdercoated, how many total sets should i send to get 1 back? Also, can you do them in blue?
Thanks,
Jacob Carson
[This message has been edited by Weponhead (edited 05-17-2005).]
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10:18 PM
May 18th, 2005
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5234 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Hey i have quite a few sets of ashtrays and would like one set back powdercoated, how many total sets should i send to get 1 back? Also, can you do them in blue?
If you send me 6 trays I will send you two back and cover shipping. Yes, I have navy blue.
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02:02 AM
May 19th, 2005
Weponhead Member
Posts: 1264 From: Keymar MD USA Registered: Nov 2003