Do you need the bucket instructions, the lamp installation info or the wiring harness instructions?
Timo
Timo,
Instructions would be nice - or at least some pics. I think I know how to do the work,
- make wiring harness - remove 3 bolts holding stock headlamp from actuator motor - install 3 bolts on new bucket to actuator motor - plug in H9's and H4 plugs - test and aim - enjoy
I don't know if there is anything else I should be doing. Is this all I need to do?
Please post or PM me details.
What gauge wire should I use for the harness 14, 12?
Dave
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10:05 AM
DrCPU Member
Posts: 708 From: North Dumfries, On, Canada Registered: Jan 2004
$40 taxes on a $155 item = 27% taxes? That is wild!!
Don't forget that I pay taxes on the value you quoted, converted to US$ then CDN$ then taxes at 14%, plus the duty. The price was marked $208 - So I'm being taxed on the this amount - say $280 CDN. It adds up real fast.
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10:27 AM
swisscheese Member
Posts: 537 From: somewhere over the pond Registered: Oct 2005
Regarding the discussion about powdercoating or not: I went to a company who does stuff like this. The worker there told me that they gonna throw it into a bath witch leaves the plain galvanized surface and then they gonna powdercoat it. Shouldn't be a problem. I'm gonna try it now since painting them is more expensive and I couldn't do it myself at home anyway. I will post the result hopefully within a week.
Instructions would be nice - or at least some pics. I think I know how to do the work,
- make wiring harness - remove 3 bolts holding stock headlamp from actuator motor - install 3 bolts on new bucket to actuator motor - plug in H9's and H4 plugs - test and aim - enjoy
I don't know if there is anything else I should be doing. Is this all I need to do?
Please post or PM me details.
What gauge wire should I use for the harness 14, 12?
Dave
Use the 14 g wire, the normal wiring is 16g so 14g will be plenty.
- remove 3 bolts holding stock headlamp from actuator motor - remove trim palte from around front of old head light bucket (4 torq screws) - remove plastic lip from bottom of buckets (2 + screws) - install Hella light into low profile buckets - install plastic lip to bottom of buckets (make sure you get the left lip on the left bucket ) - install 3 bolts on new bucket to actuator motor - make wiring harness ( so you can measure the lengths that you'll need) - plug in H9's and H4 plugs (H4 plug needs to be pushed down into the hole in the motor bracket to be out of the way) - test and aim - enjoy
That should do you. Ask away if there is anything more you want to know.
[This message has been edited by Fiero1Fan (edited 02-27-2007).]
Got the set of round ones you sent. SO whenever you get the next order send me the address and I'll ship them. Any word on whether we have a solution to the rectangular?
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06:56 PM
DrCPU Member
Posts: 708 From: North Dumfries, On, Canada Registered: Jan 2004
Use the 14 g wire, the normal wiring is 16g so 14g will be plenty.
1- remove 3 bolts holding stock headlamp from actuator motor 2- remove trim palte from around front of old head light bucket (4 torq screws) 3- remove plastic lip from bottom of buckets (2 + screws) 4- install Hella light into low profile buckets 5- install plastic lip to bottom of buckets (make sure you get the left lip on the left bucket ) 6- install 3 bolts on new bucket to actuator motor 7- make wiring harness ( so you can measure the lengths that you'll need) 8- plug in H9's and H4 plugs (H4 plug needs to be pushed down into the hole in the motor bracket to be out of the way) 9- test and aim 10- enjoy
That should do you. Ask away if there is anything more you want to know.
Thanks Timo! I got the Hella lamps today! Ya Frekin Hoo! Cost me $70 Canabucks to free them from the post office... Oh well.
The instructions for the Hella lamps are pretty thin. Can you elaborate on the sequence to install them? Also - no idea what side of the plug on the H9 is ground and power? I might be able to figure it out by looking at your pics earlier in the post - but would prefer to not bugger it up first time. Sorry, your pics (back of hellas) are completely different than mine. I'll email you a pick and you can display it if you like later in your instruction sets to the US.
From what I can figure out you need to do the following:
A- put the adjuster screws through the lamp housing and then use a set of pliers to twist until the black tab is sitting in the middle of the lamp housing. B- do this for 3 of the corners - I guess it's up to you to do two bottoms and one top - or one bottom and two tops. I guess one top would be easier to adjust. C- put lamp unit - with adjusters screws in the bucket and through the holes - low beams to the outside - high beams inside. D- push on the plastic post buckets onto the end of the adjuster ball ends E- push the plastic post buckets (mounting plugs) into the three holes of the bucket to firmly attach the lens unit F - do the same for the other lenses G- follow your instructions from #6 down!
I know that the tan wire is low beam and light green is high beam and can figure out which one is which on the H4 plug. The grey portion of the H9 plug has a number 1 on the left and a number 2 on the right (blue push in tab is at the bottom). Can you tell me which is ground and which is power? Does it matter?
Sorry for being such a dweeb, but I've done too many jobs by the seat of my pants - which usually costs me twice the price to do as I get it wrong the first time. I'll need to put some nut loosener or rust buster on the old nuts and bolts of the actuator mounting points - and need to buy some door edge protector and wire - but other than that am ready once I get the info above.
Dave
[This message has been edited by DrCPU (edited 02-27-2007).]
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07:50 PM
DrCPU Member
Posts: 708 From: North Dumfries, On, Canada Registered: Jan 2004
The instructions for the Hella lamps are pretty thin. Can you elaborate on the sequence to install them? Also - no idea what side of the plug on the H9 is ground and power? I might be able to figure it out by looking at your pics earlier in the post - but would prefer to not bugger it up first time. Sorry, your pics (back of hellas) are completely different than mine. I'll email you a pick and you can display it if you like later in your instruction sets to the US.
From what I can figure out you need to do the following:
A- put the adjuster screws through the lamp housing and then use a set of plier to twist them until the black tab is sitting in the middle of the lamp housing. Correct but be careful. Don't break off the ears
B- do this for 3 of the corners - I guess it's up to you to do two bottoms and one top - or one bottom and two tops. I prefer 2 top and one bottom with the bottom one to the inside.
C- set the plastic mounting plugs into the three holes of the bucket to firmly attach the lens unit
D- put lamp unit - with adjusters screws in the bucket and through the holes - low beams to the outside - high beams inside. I used a set of channel locks opened all the way up with a thick rag wrapped around the jaws to carefully squeeze them into the mountings
F - do the same for the other lenses G- follow your instructions from #6 down!
I know that the tan wire is low beam and light green is high beam and can figure out which one is which on the H4 plug. The grey portion of the H9 plug has a number 1 on the left and a number 2 on the right (blue push in tab is at the bottom). Can you tell me which is ground and which is power?
I doesn't make any difference. Pick the number 1 as your positive and stay with it through out your wiring harness building.
Sorry for being such a dweeb, but I've done too many jobs by the seat of my pants - which usually costs me twice the price to do as I get it worng the first time. I'll need to put some antiseize - rust buster on the old nuts and bolts of the actuator mounting point - and need to buy some door edge protector and wire - but other than that am ready once I get the info above.
Dave
[This message has been edited by Fiero1Fan (edited 02-27-2007).]
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08:40 PM
DrCPU Member
Posts: 708 From: North Dumfries, On, Canada Registered: Jan 2004
To install the adjusters put them into the light housing from the back (ball-part pointing forward) and rotate the plastic part (with three small arms) until the tab on the back is pointing towards the housing where it locks into the groove. It's VERY difficult to twist it without a special tool designed for this purpose. Needle nose pliers might brake the tabs or damage the thread.
I made a crude tool that looks something like the one on this drawing.
The small plastic cages are put into the small holes in the bucket from the inside. Then the ball part of the adjusters are pushed into the installed plastic cages and locks, it's very tough to get them in, I had to use vice grips.
Thanks for the drawing! You'd think that Susq would throw in a bloody tool for this - after spending $300 bucks for lenses! (rant now off!)
It makes no difference which you want to use as the positive side because they are mono filament bulbs. Take the number 1 and use it as positive through out your wiring building that way they are all the same.
I installed the adjuster screws fine. I tried my luck at getting the plastic bucket to go over the ball - and ended up breaking one plastic bucket and one plastic hub (lens) holder on the adjuster screw. How in the heck do you get those plastic buckets over the ball end of the adjusters?
I read the instructions, and they say - as far as I can read that the plastic bucket should be installed in the face plate hole first, then push the ball end through the end. Am I doing this right?
Will need to call Susquehanna MotorSports tomorrow to order an extra adjuster with extra plastic bucket. I'll ask them as well - but any tips or hints would be greatfully accepted!
Dave
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09:50 PM
DrCPU Member
Posts: 708 From: North Dumfries, On, Canada Registered: Jan 2004
I used a set of Channel Lock Pliers with a thick cloth wrapped around the jaws to carefully squeeze the lights into the plastic mounts. I think a C-Clamp would work even better.
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10:39 PM
Mar 1st, 2007
DrCPU Member
Posts: 708 From: North Dumfries, On, Canada Registered: Jan 2004
I tried to but the plastic bucket on the wrong way around. Me not so smart......
Still, not able to push the ball end through the plastic bucket (slotted end facing ball) with the plastic buckets installed in Timo's part.
Help is required!
I measured my buckets with a micrometer and I've got 0.085". The susquehanna plastic buckets are for a max of 0.050". So I need to take the paint off around the mounting holes - and then see if I need to chamfer to mount holes any further. This would be a lot easier if I hade access to a drill press!
The C-Clamp should work once I get the plastic buckets to sit properly - with the barbs extended. Drilling a small block of wood out to give the clamp better seating is something I'll probably have to do. A simillar small block of wood for the screw drive end of the adjuster would also help with the C-clamp.
I suspect anyone who hasn't done this before will take a few hours to get it right. Once you know what you're doing I think you are looking at a 3 minute operation. Better pictures (exploded view) of the entire suggested assembly would have saved me a ton of time. Looks like I'm out of commission on this until I order a new adjuster screw and plastic bucket from Susquehanna.
Timo did say they would be tight - and he isn't kidding.
I've taken quite a few pictures of the operation so far and will post in my build thread once I'm sure I've got things right. Nothing replaces a good set of instructions!
Dave --- still smiling!
[This message has been edited by DrCPU (edited 03-01-2007).]
Whoohoo! Mine arrived safe and sound. Looks like the post office was playing rugby with it though. lol The contents are okie dokie fine. Well packed for safeness.
------------------ Whade' "The Duck Formerly Known As Wade" Duck '87 GT Auto '88 Ferrario '84 Indy (8/26/06)
Relax! You've managed to suck all of the fun out of the room.
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01:16 PM
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
Pictures would be GREAT because I am sitting here looking at the mounting hardware and trying to visualize how to get the lights into Timo's buckets. If I had the buckets here, I might be able to figure it out, but I am at a loss right now.
I am not sure I will be able to smile if I break the clips that go into the bucket...
[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 03-01-2007).]
Wade, did they come USPS, or UPS? I guess mine will make it tomorow if they are coming via USPS because they already made their delivery and no buckets yet.
Question i have is do the headlight motors want to go up higher? Is there a way only making the head light motors go only half the stock height? How much is this kit to Sydney Australia?
Question i have is do the headlight motors want to go up higher? Is there a way only making the head light motors go only half the stock height? How much is this kit to Sydney Australia?
No the motors travel the same distance as before but as the bucket is only half as high it doesn't push up as high as the originals. I'll check on shipping to Sydney tomorrow.
Hi Timo, I sold two sets of twin buckets so far and as well the 90mm lights. I have one other person that wants a set but I'm not going to sell my third one I have here. When this guy commits I'll purchase anothe few more. I had no idea they were going to go this fast.
Thanks Joe
------------------ Race-Tech Automotive inc.
Specializing in Fiero performance: 3800 swaps, custom Aluminum flywheels, Brakes, Engine's, Aftermarket Bolt on performance parts, used Fiero parts, www.racetechauto.com e-mail racetech@bellnet.ca
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03:21 PM
Paulv Member
Posts: 1530 From: Lisle, Il, (Chicago Area) USA Registered: Nov 1999
The package showed up. That was quick! The box looked like it had been run over, ripped apart and then rubber banded back together. The good news is the parts look great. I can not wait to get my lights in and assembled.
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