For the buckets going to Canada and the US the delivery time is between 3 to 4 weeks.
Thanks for getting the buckets out so quickly Timo. 3-4 weeks is cutting close to Daytona and I hope to have them in by then. Anyone have measurements for harness lengths so I can get a head start?
Randy
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02:42 PM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
I have two set of Hella high beams one with regular H9 halogen and one set with Hella HID high beams (NOT cheap over the counter)...but legal over here. The module is the same just another fitting on the rear of the housing.
That would make sense. The Hella 90 mm high beam modules are a free-form reflector design, not a projector, so they have no focusing lenses or other internal optics.
That said, I haven't tested the 90 mm high beams with the H8/H9/H11 HID conversion lamps myself. I don't think HID high beams are a particularly good idea, though, due to the several-second turn-on time of HID bulbs. Plus, the manufacturers state that the life of HID bulbs is substantially reduced if they are not allowed to cool for several minutes between start-ups.
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02:52 PM
Intel Member
Posts: 752 From: Helsingborg, Sweden Registered: May 2002
I totally agree that the life of the HID would be shortened. The startup time of the hella HID high beam is less than half a second so that's not an issue. The asian HID conversion kit takes between two or three seconds to kick in.
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03:02 PM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
The startup time of the hella HID high beam is less than half a second so that's not an issue.
They may take several seconds longer to achieve full brightness, though. But even assuming half a second, at 120 km/h (74 mph) you will travel 17 meters (54 feet) during that brief time.
Of course, if you have wired your HID low beams to operate continuously (a good idea anyway), high beam startup time will be a non-issue.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 02-12-2007).]
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03:58 PM
midengineracer Member
Posts: 196 From: Kaiserslautern, GE Registered: Dec 2006
Wiring them up is mentioned ealier, there were several ways to do it. The one I like best is using dedicated power lines for the bulbs and using the dimmer switch to activate a relay for the high beams. It adds a couple more relays but provides the best electrical path for the big power conusmer in the vehicle. Unless you have a big aftermarket amp, anyway!
For those in the US and Canada that need the 90mm Hella light modules, I have a Group buy going on. The cost will be approx 50 bucks each. In order to pull it off we must buy a total of 20 lights. Please see my thread if interested.
[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 02-12-2007).]
I used 15" lengths of cable for the temp harness I made.
That was so that I could push the OEM connector into the cavity behind the motor and get it out of the way.
Thanks Timo, I'll try to get started on the harness soon then. By the time the buckets arrive all should have to do is paint them and install the lights and then install in the car. Hope we see a lot of these at Daytona.
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09:39 AM
swisscheese Member
Posts: 537 From: somewhere over the pond Registered: Oct 2005
Remember when painting these buckets you need to use some 600+ sandpaper to lightly scuff up the zink coating . Then use a primer for galvanized metal. After the primer you can paint them what ever color you please.
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01:55 PM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
... you need to use some 600+ sandpaper ... Then use a primer for galvanized metal. After the primer you can paint them what ever color you please.
Good advice! Many common paints do not adhere well to bare zinc galvanizing, and will peel badly if the surface isn't prepared properly before painting. There are primers and paints made for just this purpose. Powder coating and latex-acrylic (not ordinary water-based latex) paints seem particularly well suited for application over galvanized steel.
Also, galvanized surfaces should be cleaned using a moderately alkaline cleaner in water before sanding. Using a Scotchbrite pad to scrub when cleaning might even be better than sanding afterwards. You want to do everything you can to encourage the paint to stick.
Remember when painting these buckets you need to use some 600+ sandpaper to lightly scuff up the zink coating . Then use a primer for galvanized metal. After the primer you can paint them what ever color you please.
Can it be powder coated?
Timo do the lights come with some type of cover or finished frame? Something like whats on the fiero now?
Timo do the lights come with some type of cover or finished frame? Something like whats on the fiero now?
Joe
The short answer is YES they can be powder coated, however I believe the powder coating is generally too thick to allow proper installation of the Hella screw adjuster parts in the steel face plate. You'd have to scrape away the powder coating, or very carefully mask in those small areas. I'm going with paint. IF it's possible to install the screw adjuster "buttons" first and then mask them off for paint I'll likely give it a try.
I am going to powder coat mine. I will use a screw with a head just the right size to cover where the plastic inserts for the screws will fit so that they stay clean. No the buckets don't have a finished cover. Rodney and Randye both have ideas for covering them. You could also have them dipped in plastic to give them a covering.
For those wanting to pay but don't have or don't want to use PayPal you can also make payments per International Bank to Bank transfer. My bank info for an International Bank to Bank transfer are:
I am going to powder coat mine. I will use a screw with a head just the right size to cover where the plastic inserts for the screws will fit so that they stay clean. QUOTE]
Hmmm, you're causing me to maybe change my mind Timo.
The short answer is YES they can be powder coated, however I believe the powder coating is generally too thick to allow proper installation of the Hella screw adjuster parts in the steel face plate. You'd have to scrape away the powder coating, or very carefully mask in those small areas. I'm going with paint. IF it's possible to install the screw adjuster "buttons" first and then mask them off for paint I'll likely give it a try.
Randy
If you want to powder coat them, and want the powder to stick long term, the galvinization will need to be stripped off first. Powder does not adhere well to zinc. Simple sandblasting will not do it either, it takes a LOT of sandblasting to fully remove it. It can help to soak the part in a diluted muratic acid to break down the zinc.
Properly applied, powder is not that thick. There are differant make-ups of powder, and all have differant mill thicknesses, but when you see thickly applied powder, it almost always has a short lifespan. Just like paint, powder is not supposed to be overly thick. There should be no reason to have to scrape away the powder build-up.
I have read a lot of this thread but may have missed if this is an option. I would recomend if you want to paint or powder coat the brackets instead of the galvinized look, to order them in bare, uncoated metal. You will be a lot happier in the long run with the finished product.
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04:13 PM
PFF
System Bot
Oreif Member
Posts: 16460 From: Schaumburg, IL Registered: Jan 2000
Just in case you guys want a "stock" finish. POR-15 makes a "Chassis Black" topcoat that will stick to the zinc extremely well and give it the semi-gloss stock look. (POR-15 uses zinc based primers for their coatings) It is designed to be used on top of the POR-15, But according to their customer service people it will work great over galvanized metal. I already have a can of chassis black so when the buckets arrive I will most like use it to paint them.
User Guide - ChassisCoat Black Topcoat A semi-gloss, non-UV sensitive black coating that duplicates the original frame suspension and firewall finish used by U.S. manufacturers. This incredible coating is non-porous yet flexible, and is Hammer-Tough!
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION ChassisCoat Black is a permanent black coating developed for application over painted and unpainted surfaces.
[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 02-14-2007).]
powder = good powder = bad paint =bad some kinds of paint = good
I think I'll just cover em' with a black magic marker and be done with it
Randy
It's not easy to get much to stick to zinc. It is good at stopping rust, not good as an undercoating. the POR product is likely a good choice. Or if you like the galvinized look, just leave them alone.
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06:31 PM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5236 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
As in painting, surface preparation is the key. It appears that applying a Zinc Phosphate conversion treatment might be a simple and effective preparation step before powder coating (or painting) over galvanized steel. Conversion treatments (e.g. Alodine) are also widely used to prepare aircraft aluminum for painting or powder coating.
Timo ... Do you know if your shop is chromating the parts after galvanizing them? While chromating "passivates" the zinc surface and protects it from corrosion, it apparently can also interfere with the adhesion of subquent paint or powder coatings.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 02-15-2007).]
There is no chromatin involved (as far as I know) just normal galvanization. I asked the man about painting over the zink and he said that there would be no problem if a good zink based primer is used. I used a zink primer on my gas tank and it worked great. I used a sand paper to get rid of the oxidized top layer on the tank and then primered it. Waited 2 days to be sure it was hard and then painted it yellow of course. Came out excellant.
[This message has been edited by Fiero1Fan (edited 02-16-2007).]
They look well made, may try a testfit this weekend (still have to order the Hella lights). May even not paint these buckets if the galvanised look works nice with the rest of my Fiero... Nice product Timo
The damnation of choice....... 
