I assume you have seen 3m Di-Noc Carbon Fiber Film color selection.
6 colors, white to gray to black.
No yellow, red, or pink

There is a thread here in the mall for Carbon Fiber Hydrographics.
Very cool.
Base coat in yellow with CF texture applied fluidly (did i just say that?) might work.
Dunno.
They might even have a finish already that might work.

I have a supply of black CF Di-Noc and can get samples of the lighter stuff if you want to mess with painting it

Here is the reality check.
Fieros have hidden headlights.
Our hoods are fast and swoopy lookin during the day.
In theory, low profile lights will only be up at night.
Flat black should be fine.
Heck, my whole car is flat black with a 117 on the side

Someone said this:
"Projector optics will not get you laid because of the way they look.
Your skill, at speed, at night...... wet curves.
The ride is what matters"

------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

[This message has been edited by hairballrm (edited 01-09-2011).]

I spoke to a local Hydro-Printing guy
He quoted me for application of custom color base coat and three dips.
$42 per part plus paint.
This will easily add another $100 to go this route

------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

From a PM I was asked;
"Which would be better in a fog/driving lamp position between the 60mm and the 90mm?"

I really want to respond here so I do not have to individually answer the same question in PMs.

fog and driving lamps have two very different purposes.
A low beam projector will make am excellent fog lamp because it's wide even beam pattern, lack of glare, and sharp upper beam cut-off.
I would really like to try a HID kit with warmer color temp bulbs.

A true driving lamp will be more like a high beam

------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

Fog / Driving lamps continued.

The original question is which do I prefer 60 or 90mm?

Hella products are well made and expensive.
There are subtleties in the beam patterns that will be a personal decision.
I have posted some beam comparison photos on this thread.
I am now the proud owner of a Nikon DSLR.
more images will be forthcoming.

If you really need auxiliary lighting,
your lights will only be energized when there is no one around to see them.
If you want them just to make your car look cool, that's OK.
Half the reason I love my SE is that I think it just looks cool.
Keep in mind, these lights are pricey. (and worth every penny)
Lights mounted low on or below your bumper are rock magnets

------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

Quote Bump

"A lot of presidential memoirs, they say, are dull and self-serving. I hope mine is interesting and self-serving."

“Big things are expected of us, and nothing big ever came of being small"


William J. Clinton

here are your wiring options

1. Use a connector set. Cut off your existing (2)H4s and splice on (4)9005s or H9s

2. Our "Y" adapters come in pairs that have male H4s that plug into your existing harness at each bucket. There are (2)9005s or H9s for each bucket for high and low modules.

3. The Dual relay harness has several purposes. Your headlight switch, dimmer switch, and wiring are 25 years old. To find and replace the switches if they burn up could be challenging in the future. Our upgrade harness connects directly to the battery and only uses the stock headlight wiring for "signal" to turn the new relays on or off. High and low beams are independently fused and fed. That way, should you be traveling down the road at night and you blow a fuse, you will not lose all your lights. The wire is oversized to accommodate future upgrades including HID start-up currents. The LBOWB (low beam on when bright) feature is not required. If you do not wish your harness to do this, we can omit a connection.

Here are a couple thoughts in regards to Fiero headlight wiring. I will never have another H4 bulb in my car. This quad Hella upgrade is so superior, I regard the stock lighting as unsafe. I cut the connectors off and threw them away. If you sell your car and do not wish to give away $600 in lighting, you can always splice H4s back in to the stock harness.

------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

Hella 60mm projector modules are in

Half are spoken for

------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

Bump

------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

I have been getting requests for buckets without Di-Noc film.
If you want them rough sanded, ready for paint the price goes back down to $200.

------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

Thanks very nice I've received mine a couple of weeks ago, I just forgot to post a feedback here. Thanks

Just received mine today. Install was easy (took about an hour). I'll be more specific once I try them out at night, but I am stoked to try them!

Received mine a week or so ago. No time to install them for another couple of weeks or so (high idle issue needs to be solved first), but looking at them I am excited to see these installed! Great looking poroduct!

Will forward photos once intsalled for you to use!

Can you post pics of the all of your wiring harnesses? I am still trying to understand if the Y harness is ALL I would need or do I need the $135 LBOWB and the Y harness for a complete plug and play? I want to use the existing H4 connector on the car and dont really need all the LBOWB feature. Does the Y adapter connected to the battery for power?

nosrac,
I was trying to let this thread die.
let me answer your question here but check out my main sales thread
I now refer to the LBOWB (low beam on when bright) as a FTL (full time low) configuration.
My "Y" adapter harness plugs directly into the existing H4 connector and routes current to the new modules from the stock harness, not directly from the battery.
My FTL harness uses the existing stock harness and H4 connector for "signal" to turn on and off relays that are fed directly from the battery.


------------------
"Now you too can see in the dark."
http://projectorretrofit.com/

[This message has been edited by hairballrm (edited 09-10-2011).]