Added a new daily runner to the fleet, so If I ever get the urge to trailer the GT's or Bikes, no problem!!! Can't leave it stock either, K&N Cool air package going on tomorrow, wider rubber next week.
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 03-06-2004).]
Just giving this a bump to keep it active. Had the car out for a little bit over the last two days, springs almost here !
A note on the Phantom Grip, don't know if it's cold temps, or the springs took a set over the winter, but I did notice the rear end squirming to the right on hard acceleration. I'll have to see if this goes away once it warms up a little, didn't drive it for a long time, so I'm sure the transmission didn't warm up very much. Keeping fingers crossed that the springs didn't relax (I'll be pretty PO'd if they did).
Edit to update results of Phantom Grip: Limited slip did improve with the warmer weather. I do however recommend using all the spacers with the stronger spring set.
Had a great time taking it out after the long winter sleep, got the usual stares from people on the road, and people rushing up to cruise along side. Still needs to warm up a little outside, too cold for my old bones !
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 03-08-2006).]
Everything show in the picture comes in Kris's Kit (including pictured instructions not shown), I chose to order the lights with my kit package, these are not your typical sealed beams, the lamp housing does have a replaceable bulb, all lamps are used with blub included in excellent condition. For the price, this kit can't be beat. I know you cannot tell from the photo, but the clear lenses are very well formed with no obvious distortion.
Going into "Lurk" mode here on the Forum.
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 10-28-2004).]
The Whale Tail was installed by the Body Shop that re-finished the exterior of the car, basically it was in a sense a "body off restoration" will all panels removed (whale tail fitted prior to dis-assembly of car, as panel fits were excellent back there). Many items were replaced during this process like all door hinges, all locks, windshield, all weather seals, etc., anything that had considerable aging, or wear/tear. Did this to bring the car back to new type standards.
Back to your question on the whale tail, at the side and rear interface with the deck lid, you have to remove about 1/8 inch for the spoiler section to interface correctly with the deck lid. Once you have it test fitted properly, you bond, and scew it into place (directions are provided with the spoiler). Once fitted (screwed and bonded), you then fill/blend the forward edge of the spoiler to the deck lid. It isn't a complicated job, but it is somewhat time consuming. I choose to have the body shop to do the installation for many reasons, mainly because they were doing the whole exterior, and are very professional in quality (they have done a considerable number of show cars). The reason for not saving some money by doing the job myself, was that it would have been very difficult for me to do the entire (quality) job at home, at the price they quoted me.
Here's a tip for anyone considering a full repaint with color change (which is considered complicated), find a shop who is willing to take the project on, for a reduced price, because they know you are showing the car, which will give them a lot of advertising. Let them take the time to process the car, example; not rush it, fit it inbetween money making insurance collision jobs. This is the approach I took on mine, which resulted in "show fitted panels" (extensive block sanding matched panels), and show quality paint finish. The overall result is that my "bill" for this job, was less than half of what they would have charged a normal customer, because they knew I would refer them business when showing the car. They took 8 weeks to process my car, which I put into their shop during the winter, when I don't drive it any way.
edit: Response to Master Tuner; Nah, I'm 5' 10" but the fit on the mini-crotch rocket isn't too bad !
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 11-05-2004).]
I've been asked a few questions about the "Flush Mount" lamp kit above, so here's what I plan to do regarding the install, and finish:
I plan to cover the buckets with bright Yellow Carbon Fiber to closely match to cars finish. In a way, it will be similar to the appearance of the current Corvette lamps that match body color.
My plan is to make the hood bucket with lens (so to speak) sealed, and add a small vent filter so the housing 'breathes'. This will mean creating a thin glass 'lens' (just flat glass with curve to match form in the bucket directly across lamps opening, bonded with hi-temp silicone), then sealing the plastic lens to the housing (butyl tape). I may end up painting some areas, including the custom lens with "black out" paint to achieve a professional appearance. The goal is have a sealed assembly that minimizes a dis-assembly to clean out dust and airborne road grime, leaving only the exterior plastic lens and the backside of the the custom flat lens, for cleaning maintainence.
In addition, I'm toying with the idea of adding a low profile high intensity park/turn signal lamp to the mid floor location of the bucket, spaced inbetween the lamps. It will have to be a very small lamp lens housing so that it doesn't affect the headlamp pattern, but illuminates the lens housing, and directs light forward. Goal is to have all forward lamps in the bucket, and use the turn park/turn signal buckets in the Fiero Nose for air ducts to the front brake rotors, or incorporate driving lamps in this area.
There isn't a way to seal between the headlamp housing and the hood buckets, but this is not much worse than the current headlamp setup in the Fiero. Meaning, you have to open the hood to clean the headlamps, and the backside of the custom lens on the buckets (that I talked about above). Overall, I think the result is going to come out very nice.
This Fiero never fails to just amaze me. There are some that are more exotic, or more "trick", or more... whatever. This one just seems "right". At least to this particular Fiero fan.
Nice work, as always, Tom!
------------------ Raydar 88 3.4 coupe........... Coming soon... 88 Formula, presently under the knife. Read Nealz Nuze!
Radar, Thanks for adding your comments and compliment, which I appreciate very much.
I take my time deciding on modifications, many ideas just don't make it through my thought process on what I feel is right for the car. My intent is that the changes 'blend in' to enhance the original Fiero Concept of design. The car has done extremely well is shows with some very stiff competition in Modified Class for All Cars 1985 to 1995.
Cali!!!?? Where did you go? I stopped by your desk 2 weeks ago and the guy sitting there said you were transfered? Anyway, how are you? Shoot me an email if you get a chance.
And now we return to our regularly scheduled program................
------------------ Paul 2003 Tube Chassis IMSA Race Car - 3.8 lb./hp | 1987 Fiero GT 119,xxx, 3.1 motor, 1 1/4" rear swaybar, Full poly
Paul, I wasn't transferred, Lear Corporation down-sized with 3 major layoffs in Oct/Nov due to market conditions. Lear filled my position with a lesser experienced (half the pay) guy, which GM is very upset about. I hired into another company a couple weeks back as Design Release Engineer for the Instrument Panel on a 2007 Cadillac Program, this program is also Supplier Integrated. Sorry, can't give any details out on the program.
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 11-07-2004).]
The company making the modified Hilborn Setup went out of business, either sued by Hilborn, or baked out due to not enough orders. The basic problem causing this situation, it that Hilborn makes their own street setup, but it's over $5,500, and you still need to through more money into the installation in fab to full operation.
This setup is also available for SBC, but cost is also over $5,500
I really wasn't looking for a HP increase, but the sound created by this setup, as well as appearance. The price was just too steep for what I wanted out of it.
Im suprised I have never seen your car out on the road (I know I would have noticed it) Looks like I will have some firendly competition when I get my car done....hope your still alive like in 30 years LOL!
I don't have any video files of my car, that's the problem with being a loner, no one to shoot footage. I did send you a couple audio files of engine idle with spikes to 6,200 rpm and a nice speed run on the road, via e-mail.
You should come up to Ontario next summer for one of the fiero cruises that PBJ and Her86gt hold. We have alot of fun and I drive ovr 3 hours to goto them There is usually a couple fieros that come from Michigan.
California Kid, I have always believed that a Supercar is born and not made. After reading about your car I must reconscider my position. Somewhere along the line it became more.
4BanGinFun and Race, Thanks for the compliments, appreciate them very much !!!
I started working in Automotive Engineering with Chrysler back in 1972 and have stayed in this career to this day. I've driven and owned many performance cars over the years,,,,,,,,,,,,,this one stands above them all, never fails to deliver the "Excitement" every time out !!! Sure it's a lot of money to put into a project car, but the results are outstanding, and can't be matched by other production vehicles for the same cost.
Latest news is that the "California Kid" is getting new custom built high performance half-shafts, to the tune of $1,600 for the pair of assemblies, will pick them up next week. These are custom built by a local guy who specializes in half-shafts, drive shafts, and axel. He has a reputation for fabricating great performance parts, and also owns/runs a Nitro "Digger" that he made the axles for. Tells me the half-shafts will never break, or he'll replace at no charge. The only thing left stock Fiero on these units is the outer splined cups, which he stated are "bullet proof". Installation targeted for late winter/very early spring next year. When I have more details on the Assemblies, I'll post.
So what do you do when you're pushing enough horsepower to destroy high performance splined axles ??? You find a source to make even beefer assemblies, X-mas gift for the California Kid:
Not cheap (see post above), but I got tired of being standed with a broken half shaft every couple of years.
Shop that can produce these for your engine and trans setup is: Evola Service 250 North Rose Mt. Clemens, MI 48083 586-463-8380 Ask for Todd or Keith
Edit to update how these worked out. While most likely better than stock axles, these didn't last too long, his axle source did supply a new short shaft at no cost, but shied away from lifetime guarantee this time. Later in the thread you'll find I had a set made up by DriveShaft Shop.
So which side typically breaks? The short one? That's a mighty short axle to absorb all that torsional loading. Anyone ever tried an equal length setup with a halfshaft?
Score on breakage is not quite 2 to 1, naturally the short shaft takes most of the abuse, at least till I put the posi unit in, with the posi both sides have failed using Mark Williams high alloy heat treated racing splined shafts. The guy how made these new shafts for me, claimed the Mark Williams shafts weren't that great (better than stock though).
I don't see a way to equal length shafts with a transverse mount engine, unless some very strong freaky manual trans was found that could be adapted to the Fiero.
I wanted to ask a question about your expirence with axles....
Do you have problems breaking stock axles or custom sized axles?
The reason I ask is because some V8 owners (like Archie) say that the stock GM axles are plenty strong and the only reason needed to switch to aftermarket axles is when the drivetrain needs to be moved further to the left. I called Archie a while back about axles (because I need resized axles for my project) and basicly he told me be careful with some axle makers as some can be inferior in strength compared to stock metal.
I've torque sheared and twisted stock GM axles that were made for my setup.
What Archie is telling you is correct, to a point, no offense to him, but most of his customers run less than 350/350 hp/torque. The shorter shaft when reduced in length does decrease it's torque handling capability a little, when moving the engine to the left, because the axle acts a little like a torison spring, and there is less length to load rotate before permanent deformation sets in. 2 inches shorter isn't much, but it does play a little part in the high torque range where I'm at. Archie is also correct about being aware of Suppliers that don't supply a good product, when I complained to Mark Williams Enterprises about failing their expensive custom splined shafts, they told me it wasn't their design, and design was requested by Zulmalt (which they produced for him). My axle builder was more inclined to think the shaft material from Mark Williams Ent. was only slightly better than stock, and I have requested more details on what he changed, and a new part list of what he used to construct these.
This is another area that is difficult to give advise on, quite a bit depends on many factors of your car, like what Clutch (sprung or solid hub), clutch disk friction material, tire grip/contact patch to road, rear wheel alignment settings, struts / settings, solid or flex bushing mounting engine/trans, and of course HP/Torque of your setup. In short, anything that can affect torque loading of the halfshafts (even for a milisecond). Lastly, quite a bit of your half shaft life depends on how you drive your car, mine is strickly for pleasure use, so my foot is into the gas quite regular.
Can't leave it stock either, K&N Cool air package going on tomorrow, wider rubber next week.
.... Sorry couldn't resist.
Anyway, how are you? Shoot me an email if you get a chance.
