OldBob:...The rear fascia in an earlier post has the cutout on the passenger side for the exhaust tip. Is that a stock fascia or was it altered for the tips.
Altered by former owner, probably after a previous one had put the $130 cash under the trunk liner.
Replaced 194 bulb in RF side marker. Front post portion was broken loose from the rest of the side marker. Repaired it using Plastic Cement on the plastic edges that fit together and hot melt glue on the back & around the post as a reinforcement.
Marker was broken when a former owner experienced slight front end damage.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 12-02-2005).]
Sorry i have had those fenders for soooo long i was for sure they would fit that year model style of car.....car is looking sweet though that is alot of work put into it.
Not only did the driver's side NOT fit, check out the passenger's side you sold me. Time to email Tracy in Texas to see if he has the right side liner.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 11-18-2005).]
Got this on ebay. A door roller arm spring compressor. Looks like this tool could also be used on those pesky parking brake return springs on the rear calipers of any stock Fiero brakes.
Rear cutout for the right exhaust was getting a little droopy. Compare to the stock left cutout. So I decided to reinforce it using coat hanger wire & hot melt. Sealed in hot glue. Nice & strong.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 12-03-2005).]
Decided to wire the back-up lights. The dark blue wire from the ignition switched power to the gear switch on the transmission and the light green wire to the lights were both cut about 6" from the connector on the transmission. Not cut in two but cut and removed! So I had to run 2 new wires.
"Slowly it rises from the heap pile."
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 06-01-2006).]
Engine had developed a rattle. Using a stethoscope, the noise seem to be coming from the water pump. When the serpentine belt was removed, the pump pulley edge could be moved toward and back from the timing cover a little over a 1/4".
Bought a remanufactured pump. The old pump had a nice cast impeller w/ long vanes. Both the brand new and the reman. pumps had impellers that had been cut and bent from sheet metal. Short vanes. Will this make any difference in flow rates?
Anyway, things are bolted back together again.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 12-30-2005).]
OldBob the rear facia on the 88 base coupe has both exhaust cutouts. 30+ mpg was that car from Kalamzoo? What did you do for the seat repair in the early stage? I need to do something to my seats, but keep the costs down for now.
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 12-30-2005).]
Actually, the guy I bought it from on ebay drove it down from Grand Rapids.
Do you know this car?
BTW if you are after the cash, it's already been reinvested in the car.
I used the same seat cover that I had used on my 30+mpg 86 2M4 when I reupholstered it. I used some old blue denim material to fab a pair of hollow runners sewn to the seams for the 2 vertical rods to be inserted into to pull the fabric down against the foam of the seatback.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 04-24-2006).]
The 3800 has 2 coolant temp senders. One for the ECM & one for the gauge. Whoever did the swap put in the sender for the Fiero in place of the gauge sender.
Only problem is the 2 wire Fiero unit has 3/8" threads and the hole for it in the manifold is 1/8"-27. So they put in a 1/8" thread pipe screwed into a 1/8" to 3/8" adapter screwed into a 3/8" connector , into which, was screwed the Fiero sender. Basically, this setup screwed the gauge reading.
So I bought the correct single wire sender & wired it. Then I took the wire for the "HOT" light and wired it into the Hot light input wire on the ECM. Now the probe end of the sender is bathed in flowing coolant. Things are good!
Slowly, it rises from the heap.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 01-02-2006).]
Replaced the airbox that had a busted out baffle and no elbow hose (it just vented onto the tranny) with one that had the baffle intact. At least it was till I drilled (6) .2" dia holes in the upper part of the baffle. It also has the rubber elbow so now the air is at least directed to the bottom of the Park Ave air filter.
I'd really like to replace the Park Ave box w/ the V6 cannister air filter setup. Anyone have a spare? I need the base mount, the can & lid.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 01-12-2006).]
The output wire from the alternator had a ring terminal on the end and was bolted directly to the battery. Spliced into this wire was another one, 14 ga. The insulation had been removed to bare a section of the alternator cable about half an inch long. The 14 ga wire was wrapped around at this spot and soldered with a big goober bead of solder...to itself!
After removing the electrical tape at this juction, I could easliy move the 14 ga loop on the alt. wire. To the 14 ga wire was a butt connector connecting 2 wires to it. One was the orange wire going to the computer. The other was butt connected to a white wire which went to the terminal block. The terminal block was missing the jumper plate that connects the 2 studs. So the harness was connected to the same stud as the white wire. Fabbed a jumper plate for the main terminal to connect the 2 studs. Removed the 14 ga loop from the alt. wire and covered the bare wire area w/ several wraps of electrical tape. Placed the ring terminal of the alt wire on the larger alt stud of the main block. Put a smaller ring terminal on the orange computer power wire & slid it on the small dia stud of the main block along with the harness ring terminal and the white wire. Crimped a large ring terminal on the end of the white wire & connected it to the battery. Then tightened everything down.
Will run the car out tomorrow for a voltage reading. Hopefully, it will read 13.8 v and stay there instead of 12.9 v.
Slowly it rises (but, man o man, does it ever haul when asked! ).
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 04-24-2006).]
Noticed the engine needed to be cranked longer to start. Checked the fuel pressure. Slowy drops to 10-15 psi w/ the key off. Ordered a new regulator from Rock Auto.
Meanwhile, to get the fuel pressure up before starting, turn key to IGN and let pump run till it stops. Turn key to OFF, wait a few seconds, turn key back to IGN. Wait till pumps stops, then start engine. Fires right up!
The space these normally occupy is presently occupied instead by the Park Ave air cleaner. The gas tank breather tube to the canister was cut off and pinched shut right below where the canister should be. It makes it difficult to get more than a few gallons in the tank when filling up.
