twofatguys: Sweeeet. Is it gonna be ready for the 6th? Brad
That's the plan. Touch up paint is done. Rear bumper cover and R lower 1/4 panel is on. Hopefully, I'll receive a power window wiring harness in the next couple of days. That would permit the motors & wiring to be installed before the door panels go back on. Also I have a pair of interior door panels w/ map pockets waiting to be installed.
Got the wiring in & the switches & motors work. Have to get 1/4 x 1/2" bolts w/ nylock nuts to mount the motors and window rails after I get the rest of the rivets out.
Installed the second torque rod for the engine lid. Even with both rods at the lowest torque setting, when the button for the release is pushed, the lid pops open all the way.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 05-11-2006).]
Oil pressure sender diaphragm ruptured on the sender. This allowed 60psi oil into the top of the housing and squirt in a steady stream out of the side just under the top ring onto the strut tower wall.
Was over 120 miles from Parsons, but less than 2 miles from a Goodyear tire center where a mechanic who owns a couple of Buick GN's was able to remove the sender & screw in a plug. After topping up the oil, I made it back w/ no problems. Now to buy an new sender.
Removed the condenser. Flushed it, the evaporator and lines w/ a 2 stage flush. Mineral spirits followed by lacquer thinner. Remounted the condenser and assembled the lines. Plugged the open ends & pulled a deep vacuum.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 06-01-2006).]
Checked the plugs. Looked good. However, they were gapped at .050". Stock is to be .060".
So I gapped them at .065".
In Dr. Jacobs book "Performance Ignition Systems", it states that increasing the gap .006" over stock should give "4% increase in gasoline mileage, noticeably smoother operation, no change in power."
I figure going from .050" to .065" should give me at least a 5% increase in gas mileage.
Checked driver's side boot. Clamp ring on the big end of the inner joint had shifted slightly. Boot was OK. Clamp was OK, too. Carefully unbent clamp tabs, strap and removed clamp.
Thought about pulling the axle, but pulled the boot back and stuffed a finger load of semi-synthetic grease into each of the 3 nodes of the tri-pot housing.
Hammered the wrinkles out of the band to permit reuse. Not enough room to tighten the clamp w/o removing the axle. Went to auto parts store and bought a 4" hose clamp because I thought they had the same band-it clamps as pictured above. Turns out they had the crimp style boot clamps. I even have the special tool for those style. But I had checked before I went to the store for clearance for the clamp screw, so I stayed with the hose clamp. If I would have used the crimp clamp, I would have had to make sure I had the correct size. With the hose clamp, no problem, just turn till tight. Also it is reusable.
Boot is securely clamped in place.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 06-15-2006).]
Dug out a spare aux. housing. The bottom 4 screw bosses are all broken, but I could get the screws in far enough to hold. Looks alot better than the one above.
Sometimes, spares are nice to have.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 06-16-2006).]
Looking good Bill, keep up the good work. I think that I got my GT all lined out. CAI mod(done). I stole the Beretta brake upgrade from my SE. Now I just need shocks, springs and struts. Keep intouch. dustin
While cleaning rust from the vac line that goes to the 4t60 modular, I noticed a Dremel wheel slice thru the tube wall. Hmm, doesn't do much for the vacuum signal to the modulator.
Fixed it & painted the tubing. Tightened the hose clamps on a transmission hose & added some ATF.
Now, the A/F gauge indicates not quite as rich mixture. That's going to help the old mpg a little. Also, the 2-1 downshift clunk is gone. Things just keep on improving.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 11-17-2009).]
In the little over 17 months that I've had this car, I've only paid someone to work on it 3 times. 1. Weld on exhaust tips 2. Replace blown muffler 3. Remove leaking oil pressure sender & install plug.
I could have done # 3 myself if it weren't for the fact that it happened 120 miles from home & I didn't have a 15mm open ended wrench or a threaded plug.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 06-24-2006).]
Gotta say you're doing a real clean job with this car. I've seen it in person and its really nice. Seeing this one, I wanna get another Fiero and put a 3800 in it. Gotta finish my current project first though.
Developed a metallic rattle in the right front suspension when traveling over bumps. Checked brake pad, not loose. Ball joints, solid Removed the shock, then removed the upper A-arm bolt to check the bushings. Bushings intact.
Greased bolt and reassembled components.
Rattle gone.
I think the lower shock bolt may have not been a snug as required.
Cleaned the lace GT wheels. Touched up what little chipped black paint areas there were on the wheels. Removed the wheels & cleaned the tuner lug nuts.
Wire brushed the rusty rear Grand Am brake calipers and painted the outside (visible when wheel is in place) half of the caliper silver.
Erie, Ks east side of Hwy 59, about 15 miles north of Parsons, or about 65 miles from Nevada, Mo.
Soldiers & Sailor reunion Sat July 15. Parade on Main St. starts @ 10:30 a.m.
Car show 3 blocks east of Main after the parade, usually 40-60 cars. On the grass & in the shade. Entry fee was $12 in the past. Don't know if it's been raised.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 07-07-2006).]
Used a putty knife to pop horn pad off. Unscrewed 2 Phillips screws holding left paddle switch assembly on.
Sanded brass area that the screw head seats on and the underside of the screw head.
Used 2 narrow strips of duct tape on the underside of the plastic bump that presses on the brass "switch" to make the bump deeper. This decreases how far the paddle must be pressed to beep the horn.
Car has developed a minor squeak from the rear when turning at low speeds. It is an intermittent rotating squeak. Sounds like the warning scraper on one of the rear brake pads. Need to check it out.
