Decide to pull the back valve cover and replace it with a lighter plastic spare. It' was the original metal one and the paint was starting to go. Note the oxidation on the back slope.
However, here's my testimony to Mobil oil. Didn't even wipe the interior.
Also, changed the oil, 3 quarts Mobil 5000 & 1 quart Mobil 1. The AC Delco PF47 filter is shorter than the PF47 I removed..
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 07-03-2010).]
I've had 4 or 5 cars with 3800 Vin C motors like yours now. The metal valve covers are actually more desireable than the composite covers because they don't have a bad habit of cracking and they can be powdercoated after they've oxidized like yours has.
The engraved "3800" manifold was only used in 1988, the first year of the Vin C production. That at least dates the motor if you were curious and didn't already know.
AC Delco just recently went to a cheaper manufacturer for their filters At this point I'd only trust a WIX filter. Also, you can use a PF52 filter to get some extra length. Some people think they are too long but I've never had any clearance issues on my H and C body cars when I used them. I've never seen one used on a Vin C 3800 in a Fiero though.
I haven't seen it mentioned in your thread yet, but have you upgraded the coils to a Delco Type II? The original Magnavox coils have a bad habit of failing and turning into goo, which leaks on the ICM and ruins it also. Heres a write-up I did on my LeSabre forum a while back: http://lesabret.com/phpBB/v...opic.php?f=13&t=5898
Alibi:I've had 4 or 5 cars with 3800 Vin C motors like yours now. The metal valve covers are actually more desireable than the composite covers because they don't have a bad habit of cracking and they can be powdercoated after they've oxidized like yours has.
The engraved "3800" manifold was only used in 1988, the first year of the Vin C production. That at least dates the motor if you were curious and didn't already know.
AC Delco just recently went to a cheaper manufacturer for their filters At this point I'd only trust a WIX filter. Also, you can use a PF52 filter to get some extra length. Some people think they are too long but I've never had any clearance issues on my H and C body cars when I used them. I've never seen one used on a Vin C 3800 in a Fiero though.
I haven't seen it mentioned in your thread yet, but have you upgraded the coils to a Delco Type II? The original Magnavox coils have a bad habit of failing and turning into goo, which leaks on the ICM and ruins it also. Heres a write-up I did on my LeSabre forum a while back: http://lesabret.com/phpBB/v...opic.php?f=13&t=5898
Maybe I'll get mine powercoated someday.
Hmm, 88 only?
Yeah, I already knew that. That's why I purchased this back in Nov 05,
I've had no problems with the coils yet, just the ICM. Thanks for the tip. A "+" for you.
Yup, only 88 had the engraved intake. '86 and 87 had an earlier version of the 3800 (Vin B I think) which had a totally different setup. I've got an '88 LeSabre T Type parts car with the metal valve covers and the engraved intake I'm going to pull before I junk the car. Then I'm getting the parts blasted and powdercoated to go on my '89 LeSabre T Type. My '89 just has a blank intake and (cracked) composite covers. I think they switched from the metal to the composites in either 89 or 90 so the metal ones are a little hard to come by.
On the coils, its a super easy swap. The whole setup from a SII 3800 off ebay ran me about $50. Much cheaper than replacing the old style ICM at around $100.
The former PF47 had an overall height of 3.4". The present, 3.125", 0.275" shorter giving an 8% reduction in capacity & filtration provided the number of pleats hasn't changed as well.
I assume the shorter PF47 is going to be changed in similar ways as the PF52 has. I suppose you could still use the now shorter PF52 as it would still be longer/have more filter media than even the longer PF47.
[This message has been edited by Alibi (edited 07-05-2010).]
If one were running smaller diameter tires, the struts would fit.
Anyway, the old strut (passenger side) still had plenty of damping left, so it goes back in.
The ball joint is really tight, so the new joints get reutrned as well. REFUND!
Ended up burning out the rubber bushings after drilling vent holes thru. The rubber wasn't cracked and had lots of life when drilling them. So I think replacing them was a waste.
I might use the refund to buy poly cradle bushings instead.
2 parallel strings 70" apart, 2-9/16" off the front wheel centers, 2" off rear wheel centers.
These figures apply only to my car. Just putting them here for future reference.
Man, posting the above offsets was one of the best things I've done.
I was able to use 2 stands and a string, adjust the rear toe on one side, move the string & stands to the other side and adjust the rear toe. Simple & quick!
Rear toe is now zero.
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 01-03-2011).]
Checked the A/C compressor relay. All voltages & grounds are good. Relay functions properly. So I plugged the connector back into the relay and fired up the engine. Compressor cycled normally and the engine speed varied as the compressor cycled.
By not clear coating the red paint & having sit in the hot Arkansas sun (I kept it in a garage in Parsons, Ks), the red faded.
Sooo,
I wet sanded all the panels with 320 grit paper. Sprayed 3 coats of red followed by 2 of clear. Wet sanded any runs w/ 400. Sanded all the painted panels in the following order: 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit papers.
Then machine buffed in the following order: Meguiars Mirror Glaze: #1 Medium-Cut Cleaner w/ lambswool pad #9 Swirl Remover w/ a different lambswool pad #7 Showcar Glaze w/ a foam pad
Then Simonize wax applied by hand & rubbed out with a clean terrycloth towel. Almost finished.
Still to do: Wax Fill moulding where needed and paint Clean wheels & tires
Now I know why retired guys win car shows. They have the time. They can spend a couple of hours or more per day, six days a week, prepping for the next car show!
[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 10-06-2011).]
Your car is awesome. I have an '87 Coupe that will eventually get the Quad 4 out of my '92 GTZ.
Do you have any photos of the front of your car with the body disassembled? Specifically, I'm looking for pictures of the flange that sticks down from the space frame. I believe it holds a bracket which attaches to the back edge of the fascia and keeps the whole assembly from sagging. The previous owner of my car had it towed by some friends who weren't careful and damaged it. I can fab the parts I need, but seeing some photos would help a lot.
There is a diagram in the factory manual, but it's small and not to scale so it's not possible to build replacement parts from it. Plus, there are two mounting holes on the fascia that don't seem to attach to anything in the diagram. I'll see if I can post photos to show what I mean.
